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April in Bavaria & Alsace
Planning
After 17 months, surgery, a dying cat, and just life … I get to travel again!! I usually go somewhere twice a year, so the 17 months felt soooo hard. I would gaze at hotels and pretty foreign streets on my computer screen with stark longing. I'd had spinal surgery in August of 2024, then with foolish abandon went to Paris that November. It was a disaster because I could barely walk. Then, I had surgery for an arthritic toe in April 2025. And then my 14-year-old cat began to decline. Though I planned a few trips, she would worsen as I was packing, so I always had to cancel. Those who have gone through the passing of a beloved pet know this next part. I can travel now … finally … but kind of feel that I don't really deserve it and kind of really don't want to. Nevertheless, I'm going. One of my cancelled trips was to a posh resort in Hohenschwangau above Füssen, about 1h from my home in Garmisch. In December, I'd really stupidly made pre-paid non-cancellable reservations, but when I threw myself on their mercy, they very graciously allowed me to use the reservations in April. After that, I wanted to spend time in Colmar and see the nearby villages, so that was my next stop. But I got the dates wrong and had an extra free night, so decided to spend a silly single night in Appenzell, between Hohenschwangau and Colmar. Then I wanted a stop on my way home, and decided on Überlingen on the Bodensee, where I've stayed before and enjoyed the town and the vibe. So that is the plan: Drive 1h to Hotel Ameron Neuschwanstein, Hohenschwangau x4 nights Drive 2h to Hotel Traube, Appenzell x1 night Drive 2h30 to Hotel le Colombier, Colmar x5 nights Drive 2h30 to Bad Hotel, Überlingen x4 nights. Drive 3h home I don't usually drive on my trips, but as the 71-year-old bod grows less and less capable and more and more whiny, I decided to drive my own car. But I plan to use transport as much as possible once at the hotel, as I dislike driving in new places without a navigator to help me interpret the GPS. That should be fine in Germany (Füssen and Überlingen), but France, as usual, presents a problem. I'll go into more detail from Colmar. Füssen I adore the town of Füssen, so naturally to spend a wonderful few days wandering its winding streets, I decided to stay in Hohenschwangau. Ja, makes perfect sense. Well, I have a strong desire to always see Alpine lakes, and I don't begrudge spending money for lakeview rooms. There are two big lakes in the area, but I could only find one hotel that offered lakeview rooms, and that was at this posh resort. So, to get the views I wanted, I resolved to suffer the three restaurants, room service, bar, pool, spa, and two saunas (one textile, one textile-free). I made reservations for two massages and made sure to pack a bathing suit. The drive was easy. Hohenschwangau is a zoo, even in April. I walked around, found my way through the 4 buildings of the resort, and had lunch. A big group of about 60 elderly Germans came in and occupied four of the big bench-seating tables in the restaurant. I wondered what on earth was going on – some had sat down at my table. After a few minutes, a woman dressed in gorgeous Tracht (traditional Bavarian clothing) starting addressing the group – it was a tour! OK. I finished and paid in a hurry, then wandered down to the lake and along it for a while. Then time for my hot stone massage … amazing … then a sauna in the textile-free one (I was alone, so my bravado was wasted), then I was pretty much just melted. [img alt="View from my room "]https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/2000x1333/p1140637_785f32c04a62de3c8764af909eae43298cb23aa0. jpg[/img] View from my room [img alt="The bathroom ... "]https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/20260409_111504_f3403be8ba3c9cc38105c91cd3e52c8faa 5c795c.jpg[/img] The bathroom ... [img alt="I dont have to tell you how often Ive almkst walked into the glass door "]https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/20260410_074445_958c940d9b5c224f6e0bb7a7e24ea2cc40 ba60f0.jpg[/img] I don't have to tell you how often I've almkst walked into the glass door [img alt="This wing of the hotel abuts the Museum of the Bavarian Kings "]https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/20260409_111809_b5b97f66f6b6a692e7c7ec853a78b9d460 240f3d.jpg[/img] This wing of the hotel abuts the Museum of the Bavarian Kings [img alt="Walking around the lake "]https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/20260409_122303_cd0cf15bad75d338a410385df20b619012 65234d.jpg[/img] Walking around the lake https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...112955a94f.jpg [img alt="View from the breakfast room "]https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/20260410_080507_1__7f16d130e35c3bdb78f4c0e221e1afa fb68928af.jpg[/img] View from the breakfast room [img alt=" "]https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/2000x1333/p1140643_320d870fb8080247f235af930855354d63aca10d. jpg[/img] |
[img alt="The bathroom
"]https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/20260409_111504_6985f46ea70f2d1c0b21b165d974381da0 455119.jpg[/img] The bathroom [img alt="Ive almost walked imto this glass door a few times "]https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/20260410_074445_6cd64b63a0259e3019a5f9436a99655026 26878c.jpg[/img] I've almost walked imto this glass door a few times [img alt="This wing of the hotel abuts the Museum of the Bavarian Kings "]https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/20260409_111809_14340f42ff86854e29576999290273bea0 6775e4.jpg[/img] This wing of the hotel abuts the Museum of the Bavarian Kings [img alt=" "]https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/20260409_122303_8b46b7255503ddf03758cfe416f10125c8 1eda37.jpg[/img] https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...89b950cea7.jpg View from the breakfast room https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...693c10d04d.jpg View from the room |
Apologies that the photos are not uploading...
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on for the ride
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Hi bilbo! Happy to see you here!
I've resized all the photos a second time, and I hope they'll post this time. Friday 10 April Breakfast at the hotel was the best I've ever seen. There were three rooms of food – one just for breads & pastries (!); one for cheeses, cold cuts, fruits, cereals, butter (in blocks that you cut into), honey (including a honeycomb); and one for warm foods, including eggs Benedict, omelets cooked to order, a waffle stand, sausages, bacon, etc. It was a real feast every morning, but I tried to control myself. The plan today was to make it to the lake down in Füssen; it was grey and chilly and cloudy as I left the hotel. I was wearing my big purse with an umbrella & everything, and my big, heavy camera. I found the bus stop about a 10-minute walk from the hotel, the bus came, my Schwangau Card was good for payment, and several minutes later I got off at Pulverturm Füssen. Got to the Rewe grocery store to pick up stuff for dinners, then headed south towards the river at the edge of town because surely one could walk along the river to get to the lake. Ahhh, not so fast. Apparently you can get to the lake along the river, but it is the long way. The shortcut goes north through the town. I decided to turn around and go through town. That detour cost me a total of about 20 minutes … which is critical for me. Despite the spinal surgery, I still have drop foot on my left foot, so after walking for about 20 minutes, I am lurching and stumbling and tripping like a drunkard. I can walk for longer if I walk at an agonizingly slow pace, with deliberate steps. I also use a cane now, as it helps with balance, and it also helps me to focus on my steps and walk a bit more steadily. So those lost 20 minutes ended up costing me the lake. I did walk along the beautiful Panorama walkway until about 15 minutes from the lake. But the wind was strong, the rain was intermittently strong, my shoes were getting wet, and my shoulders were really not happy about carrying so much. So I turned around and moseyed back to town and had lunch at one of my favorite spots, Le Perle. I had risotto asparagus (it is spargel season) with dried ham and hollandaise sauce, and it was about the best risotto I've ever had. I'd walked for about 90 minutes, which is a big accomplishment for me. Of course, I didn't go far. But that wasn't important to me. Back at the hotel, spent the afternoon reading and recovering and had a neck & shoulder massage. [img alt="Skirting Füssen "]https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/1340x2000/p1140645_5355a9bef0881123099880be97192f5fb67a4572. jpg[/img] Skirting Füssen [img alt=" "]https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/1340x2000/p1140648_d2df0af0645ab2e5b789a3df3312650066bda7aa. jpg[/img] [img alt="Approaching the Panorama Way "]https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/2000x1333/p1140650_36e94ea65e5780162500d72076b45a6247feab2f. jpg[/img] Approaching the Panorama Way [img alt=" "]https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/2000x1333/p1140652_65de23fc99da689a25e3f28c7a8453b492c0a33d. jpg[/img] [img alt=" "]https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/2000x1333/p1140654_192740b3ae4a453cdec98bc1392ec1d3dd1aed62. jpg[/img] [img alt=" "]https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/2000x1333/p1140656_81c5f0201d061e9bf5432d4eacc639c779b085cf. jpg[/img] [img alt=" "]https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/2000x1333/p1140657_6930272ee576c4cf01d194e234151138e4c73981. jpg[/img] [img alt="Füssen's Wall "]https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/2000x1333/p1140659_cccf88ceb2377007d9e328393d9fe15a5f62a45b. jpg[/img] Füssen's Wall [img alt=" "]https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/2000x1333/p1140661_e39e44b68011538cb33f27f8b5408044827b9632. jpg[/img] [img alt="Lunch! "]https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/1500x2000/20260410_112524_ffcf04bbbd8eb38e1b2c022704b6cfa832 e8f36f.jpg[/img] Lunch! |
Well, rats. No photos.
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Going to try posting the photos in Chrome...
[img alt="Skirting Füssen "]https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/1340x2000/p1140645_84ade98b00203a66e7e386773cf84b2b779c3d7d. jpg[/img] Skirting Füssen [img alt=" "]https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/1340x2000/p1140648_2658c72bbf54679a0d65bb621b796f073ae5e316. jpg[/img] [img alt="Approaching the Panorama Way "]https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/2000x1333/p1140650_27d09a9c1c18e2f7166f056ba1288fdd669f2726. jpg[/img] Approaching the Panorama Way [img alt=" "]https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/2000x1333/p1140652_e42a3e17bccc1b57707a0690dccca6612de98f4d. jpg[/img] [img alt=" "]https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/2000x1333/p1140654_ef852305ab3079347243a621e8e44e99e64e2e36. jpg[/img] [img alt=" "]https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/2000x1333/p1140656_92ef4647ae100e9a59d7fb08c88c87e667e51422. jpg[/img] [img alt=" "]https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/2000x1333/p1140657_15132bd8cb0fed72eec014aa49e2e82c949b4dc3. jpg[/img] [img alt="Füssen's Wall "]https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/2000x1333/p1140659_eac21c1c1aa600a06ca3c04c103ff6d287572c8c. jpg[/img] Füssen's Wall [img alt=" "]https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/2000x1333/p1140661_b09cd1d9d01f35b8ea7e2a2d2416cbadc5096607. jpg[/img] [img alt=" "]https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/1340x2000/p1140662_747f342f0dcb71d38a334246b3d0663b10390564. jpg[/img] [img alt="Lunch! "]https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/1500x2000/20260410_112524_4ebae1e0a835a20f8d106172f24b050ce4 71a2d1.jpg[/img] Lunch! |
I'm signing on to follow your trip and looking forward to more your wonderful photos.
Also, condolences to you over the loss of your beloved cat; it's so very difficult to say good bye our loyal little buddies. |
Along for the ride swandav, and so sorry to hear about your cat and physical challenges. All one can do is keep on keepin' on and I see you're doing exactly that. I'll bet that neck and shoulder massage felt wunderbar.
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I’m in, of course…
you had a challenging year, glad you are travelling again. I loved the area around Füssen and the charming town itself, (mountains, forests, lakes) we only stayed a night and did a couple of short hikes, wish we had stayed longer. |
I always love your trip reports swandav. Looking forward tremendously to your photos when you sort that out.
I'm sad about your pussycat, but we experienced the same when we lost the last of 2 14 year old dogs a while back - suddenly you can free yourself up for trips and don't have to worry. We did take advantage of that for a while, but of course we signed up for more mayhem - we have another two dogs now. Enjoy the break while you can! Lavandula |
Swan, what an outstanding view from your room!
Must've felt so good when the plane touched down to begin your trip--your patience was rewarded. You mentioned 'twice per year'. Where to next? I am done. the TR |
Hey guys,
Y'all are so kind. You're wonderful. Thank you especially so much Trophywife, Mel, & lavandula, for your kind words about how hard it is to you lose your baby & tormentor, lol. Two dogs around the same time, lavandula ... that must have been a seriously sad time. I am so sorry. Thank you Adelaidean! Yes, Füssen is my favorite town in this area; it has so much variety. Thank you zebec! Yes, I am a real sucker for Alpine lakes & lakeview rooms! Thankfully I didn't have to endure any stinkin' flights, as I live in Bavaria, just 1h from Füssen. Next trip is in the fall, and I plan to be gone for about 6 weeks, from Paris to Montreux to Munich, and Paris again. My nephew and his fiancee are taking a "Band of Brothers" WW2 tour, and I am meeting them in Paris for the start of the tour; then I'm heading to Montreux for 8 nights while they're touring; then I'll see them in Munich for a few days at the end of their tour; then back to Paris for 1 month just 'cause I can. I will try again later with the photos, will try from my phone on data and see if there's any success. Thank you again, my favorite little band of intrepid travellers, s |
Testing the photos with my phone on data...
[img alt="Skirting Füssen "]https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/1340x2000/p1140645_a4d80e110bfba6b58ed5159a8a8aa6e37c5f90bb. jpg[/img] Skirting Füssen https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...41d5b49041.jpg [img alt="Approaching the Panorama Walk "]https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/2000x1333/p1140650_446dc7deb6defc4bfd01a4e69884c34af469c0de. jpg[/img] Approaching the Panorama Walk [img alt=" "]https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/2000x1333/p1140652_cdfcd55226f421d4837c4482d3567a8278e1cdde. jpg[/img] [img alt=" "]https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/2000x1333/p1140654_2cbfcb3322857c219f050be2f2ad04b0eebc9c43. jpg[/img] [img alt=" "]https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/2000x1333/p1140656_5245c3292262ac34ee52e87dff8b0a9ffe64cd7d. jpg[/img] [img alt=" "]https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/2000x1333/p1140657_475902d306db7983ac1c625cff81dffd62b52400. jpg[/img] [img alt="Füssen's Wall "]https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/2000x1333/p1140659_b2287e612483732b55658d69cd87826066afee8c. jpg[/img] Füssen's Wall https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6d6719c755.jpg [img alt="Lunch! "]https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/1500x2000/20260410_112524_fa5b105338b64b1731da351c77805ed4c8 b92a0f.jpg[/img] Lunch! |
spargel season gets earlier every year, but thanks for the heads up.
My advice on the photos, if it helps, don't put anything in the comment section, not even a space. Maybe that will help |
Thanks! That seems to work!
Saturday 11 April My plan today was to find the Lechfall and roam around the town, one of my favorites. So, the short walk, the bus, and Füssen. I roamed around a bit, made my way to the river, and walked along it to the Lechfalls. Again, it was the long way, about 30 minutes (normal walkers could do it in 15 minutes). But it was a gorgeous walk, well worth it. The falls were pretty cool – could hear them from about 50m away. I walked back to Füssen the fast way, along the road. Boring but quicker. Then wandering the town, found a pizzeria rated 4.7 at Google, and it was truly one of the best ever. Sunday 12 April It was drizzling and grey and chilly today. I had been wondering whether I should give the lake another go or just take advantage of staying at a resort. Well, decision made. I read all morning, had lunch in the bar with a big red, had a nap, then used the elliptical in the gym and had a sauna. It was a Finnish sauna, and I didn't last more than 5 minutes. There was a couple in the sauna, and I couldn't see them well without my glasses, but it seemed they had draped towels across their bits. Lol, not Germans or northern Europeans then. I had laid my towel on the wood and laid down on top of it (no flesh on wood!) and closed my eyes. It’ very relaxing. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f0c2201cff.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b4a7eb077c.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a1ab8d0de2.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6eb1658c96.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ee099fcf8c.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fb012677bb.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ba29d14d46.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2ca86dad7d.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...106249de68.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bac03dfdb5.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...153f7fd307.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...05cb6a9ece.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8ecf7407c0.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6249bb675f.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e08789716a.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fe7a489f49.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e6a6feac7b.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...52f327b143.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...230e6c20b2.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...51363458cb.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5848a69757.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...247271ce67.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...39d481525b.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ec4e047c17.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4adcae0b6a.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...34a36c634d.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a625164063.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f621c906b5.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2aa1bdea32.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d943713f05.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bead241214.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f99a10a417.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d481c0d860.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4a67cb31d5.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...99bf7dde3d.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b149cf9883.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...24891e846d.jpg |
I wish I had the guts to go towel free in a sauna, but I'm just too much of a prude yank🫣
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Following your report closely. I am so sorry about your beloved cat and health issues, s!
The towns look typical Bavarian, LOL, and beautiful even in the rain :-) |
Following along, thanks for sharing.
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