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enjoystravel33 Jan 25th, 2014 09:42 AM

Apartment or B&B in Tuscany town - doing it differently this time - help!
 
In October, we will be traveling to Italy for the 4th time in the past several years. In addition to Rome, Venice, Florence, and Cinque Terre, we have traveled some in Tuscany and Umbria, mostly staying in Agriturismos (in the Chianti area, Val d'Orcia, and outside of Orvieto), as well as one week in the tiny village of Montone. This time we would like to stay in an apartment or B&B WITHIN a town or larger village in southern Tuscany (or maybe Sienna?) - something large enough to have at least several restaurants to enjoy in the evenings after touring in a car, and a place to slow down and explore. Are there any suggestions? I have briefly visited most of these during the day, but want to enjoy our spot in the evenings when fewer tourists are around. I have considered Montalcino, Montepulciano, San Quirico d'Orcia, Pienza, and Siena. We have stayed before in Monticchiello for 2 nights, and it is too small for what we are looking for in a one week stay. We are interested in good food and wine, maybe visiting a couple of markets, and in general exploring the area. Also, are there any recommendations on any apartments, B&Bs, or hotels in any of these locations that would make a stay there special? An apartment would give us an option for local shopping and cooking, but we would take a hotel in town vs an agriturismo in the countryside. We would appreciate any suggestions!

bvlenci Jan 25th, 2014 10:07 AM

We spent four days in Montalcino once, and really enjoyed our stay there. We stayed in a budget hotel, and it was about six years ago, so I probably can't help you with lodging.

Of the other places you mention, the only one I've never visited is San Quirico. My second choice would be Pienza, of the places I know, although it's smaller than Montalcino. It's not really on a hill, or not a very high one, which makes it easy to get in and out on day trips. (The long, winding road up to Montalcino was a bit wearisome at times.) Near Montalcino, the monastery of Sant'Antimo was one of the most beautiful and impressive places we visited.

Montepulciano didn't grab me; I'm not sure why. Maybe because the town is very strung out like a ribbon on a ridge. There was a lot of walking up and down hills, and nothing seemed close to anything else. There were some great views, though.

Siena is really a city, not a town. It's a very nice city, where we've gone a number of times, but I'm not sure it's what you're looking for.

jamikins Jan 25th, 2014 10:40 AM

We stayed at this place just outside of Montepulciano and lived it. They also have apartments in Montepulciano. We thought the town was the perfect size with lots of restaurants etc and close to other interesting towns.

http://www.santantonio.it/en/doc-31-1.aspx

Kiddo Jan 25th, 2014 11:02 AM

A few years ago, we stayed for a week in San Quirico. While it's a lovely town, we didn't find there were that many restaurant options and it was pretty dead at night.

enjoystravel33 Jan 25th, 2014 11:11 AM

I appreciate all comments so far. Kiddo, it sounds like San Quirico may be too quiet for what we are looking for. Bvience, I know Sienna is a true city but thought if we stayed in the old walled part it would have nice ambiance in the evenings. But we would probably lean toward the southern towns/villages. Jamikins, we will check out apartments in Montepulciano through your spot. Anyone else with input/recommendations?

bobthenavigator Jan 25th, 2014 12:26 PM

Sure, I love that region. It sounds like Montalcino may be your best option---lots of good food options:

. IN-TOWN LOCATIONS: For walking convenience to shops & ristorantes.

1. Palazzo del Capitano www.palazzodelcapitano.com 170 to 210E
Very nice small hotel in center of San Quirico—perfect location to explore.

2. Vecchia Oliviera www.vecchiaoliviera.com/ 150 to 200E
Nice 4 star hotel at the gate into lovely Montalcino---has pool.

3. Palazzina Cesari www.montalcinoitaly.com 80 to 110E
Lovely small B&B in heart of Montalcino—great value—2 night stay minimum.

4. Locanda di San Francesco www.locandasanfrancesco.it 180 to 200E
New boutique B&B in a lovely location in Montepulciano—great reviews !

5. Politian apartments http://www.politian.com/ Good value apts. with
minimum stay of 3 nights in Montepulciano---helpful host---85E

6. Palazzo Ravizza www.palazzoravizza.it 170 to 250E
Very nice & popular hotel in Siena with parking.

Henry Jan 25th, 2014 07:53 PM

enjoystravel,
These may be of interest
http://www.prolocomontalcino.com/en/...-of-the-thrush

http://www.slowtrav.com/italy/tuscany/hs_planning.htm

enjoystravel33 Jan 26th, 2014 06:34 AM

Thanks for the links Henry! We won't be there the last week in Oct but the second link looks great for touring itineraries and even mentions market days. Bobthenavigator, all of your suggested places look lovely! The only true apartments are the Politian apartments in Montepulciano - they look perfect. I wish I could find something similar in Montalcino. Still haven't ruled out Pienza. With a one week stay we would prefer an apartment. The two spots in Montalcino look wonderful; if we decided on a shorter stay either would be good. I'll contact these places to check on details and availability, as well as the apartment in Montepulciano. Thanks! Any more suggestions?

Sberg Jan 26th, 2014 10:24 AM

Bookmarking

dc2002 Jan 26th, 2014 12:36 PM

We are staying in an apartment in lucca in September for some if the same reasons you mentioned. I know it isn't in the area you are looking at though. I think Pienza would be too dull for that long (we stayed there for 2 days and were done...not very interesting at night IMO) I have not stayed in Arezzo but have you looked into there? We only did a day trip to Montalcino and montepluciano which were both nice :)

enjoystravel33 Jan 28th, 2014 03:04 PM

I will check out Arezzo- not very familiar with that area. Thanks! I'm leaning toward Montalcino if I can work out accommodations there.

bobthenavigator Jan 28th, 2014 03:19 PM

Also look at Hotel Giglio in Montalcino.

bobthenavigator Jan 28th, 2014 03:26 PM

And, this place is a real sleeper---pun intended !

http://www.casalemmi.com/?lang=en

enjoystravel33 Jan 29th, 2014 12:29 PM

I'm narrowing down choices. Current plan would be to fly into Rome and spend one week in an apartment in the Pantheon or Piazza Navona area (any suggestions for 2 bedroom apartments?). Then we will rent a car and drive to Tuscany for our second week. Top 3 choices are Palazzina Cesira, a B&B recommended by Bobthenavigator, Il Giglio, also recommended bu Bobthenavigator (they have a 2 bedroom apartment close to their hotel), or an apartment in San Quirico ( House-in-Tuscany) recommended in another travel forum by Stu Dudley. The apartments are attractive so as to be able to spread out and cook a little during our week there. On the other hand, the B&B Palazzina Cesira has wonderful reviews and it sounds like the owners are so helping in giving suggestions/ helping with dining, winery visits, and meal reservations, etc. San Quirico is small, (too small?), but a quiet place in the evenings with a few restaurants would be nice. Montalcino would give us a little more choice in terms of dining and enjoying some nice brunello. All are in the town, which is what we are looking for this trip. I'm sure all would be good choices, but it's hard to make the final decision. Any thoughts?
A week in each place would allow for some day trips. Any suggestions for a day trip from Rome? I have considered taking a train to Orvieto the morning we leave Rome, then wandering around there for part of the day before renting our car for the drive to Tuscany. We have been there before and a trip to the cathedral and shopping would be nice. Is a trip to Pompeii an easy day trip? Other ideas?
In Tuscany we would revisit Sant. Antimo, would like to see Abbuzia di Monte Oliveto Maggiore, and would like to visit the La Foce gardens. Also visit Pienza, Montepulciano, and enjoy a meal at Osteria La Porta in Monticchiello. And, a slow pace to enjoy things we happen upon while we explore. Any suggestions? We enjoy beautiful vistas, good food and wine, and art/architecture. We would like to see one or two towns on market days. I would like to learn more about olive oil, hopefully visiting a place where I can sample it, as well as make reservations at one or two small wineries around Montalcino. All suggestions would be appreciated.

cruiseluv Jan 29th, 2014 01:45 PM

Just want to add that I stayed in late October 2012 for a week at Politian apartments in Montepulciano and loved it. I never cooked in the apt, had lunch and dinner out every day and found plenty of choices in town. I adored being there for a week, going back this Sept for two weeks! I attend Il Sasso language school there so that occupies half of my day.

bvlenci Feb 5th, 2014 01:31 AM

I just saw your most recent questions, Enjoystravel.

Pompeii is not a bad day trip; I did it once, on a hot summer day, and found it very tiring, but not difficult.

Ostia Antica is an easy half-day trip, although you could easily stretch it to a full day. This is the ancient Roman port city, with many well-preserved ancient buildings. From a historical point of view, I think it's more interesting than Pompeii, and it's certainly easier to get to, and never crowded.

http://ostia-antica.org/

Many people make a day trip to Tivoli, where there are three interesting villas, from different historical periods, to visit: The Renaissance Villa, the Romantic period Villa Gregoriana (which I haven't seen, as it was closed for renovations when we were there), and the ancient Roman Villa Adriana, which is a bit out of town. It's fairly easy to visit all three using public transporation.

Lake Bracciano is easily reached by train or bus from Rome; the town of Bracciano has a castle (with Tom Cruise connections?) that overlooks the lake. I've been to the lake, but to a different town, Anguillara.

Another possible day trip is to one of the towns in the Castelli Romani area, a region of lakes and hills south of Rome. Several of the towns are served by train or bus from Rome.

Assisi is also a fairly easy day trip, by train from Rome. It's also not a bad one-night stopover between Rome and Florence, because there are some direct trains there from Rome, and also from there to Florence, but it seems you wouldn't have a night free for this.

Stopping in Orvieto is not a bad idea if you have a place to leave your luggage; there's no luggage storage at the train station there. You might pick up your rental car early just to be able to leave the luggage in the trunk. However, I'd drive it away and park it somewhere else, unless you can leave the car in the rental lot. Maybe I'm overly cautious, but I don't like putting purchases or luggage, or other temping things in my trunk and then walking away. I don't do it at home, either.

I don't have any suggestions for apartments in that part of Rome; I rarely stay in apartments, much preferring hotels, all things being equal.

zoecat Feb 5th, 2014 06:40 AM

Since you've been to Orvieto before, I suggest picking up the car in the morning there and visiting Pitigliano and Sorano on your way to your base in southern Tuscany. Both towns are spectacularly beautiful and well worth a visit. Visit Pitigliano first and have lunch, then stop in Sorano for some interesting architecture and wondering through a town almost void of tourists. From Sorano, it's about a 1.25-1.30 hour drive to the Val d'Orcia area.

StuDudley Feb 5th, 2014 06:55 AM

We stayed in San Quirico for 2 weeks this past April. There are two very nice restaurants in SQ and about 5 more that are "typical" places. Dinners in the surrounding villages rounded out our dining. We stayed in this apt
http://www.house-in-tuscany.com/

We've stayed in close to 70 gites & apts in France, Italy, and London. This was one of the nicest. We prepared our own dinners about half the nights we were there. It is directly on the main street in the middle of town. Here is a Shutterfly book my wife made about our stay there (and other places)

http://share.shutterfly.com/share/re...=1EYt2Llw1ZMgm

Once you click on the above link & get a display, then Click on the book. Once you click on the book and it "opens", click on "Full Screen" - which is immediately above the book.

Stu Dudley

HIroamer Feb 6th, 2014 11:34 AM

We have spent a total of several months in Tuscany over the last several years. Our favorite village is Montepulciano - not only for the great restaurants and shops there, but also for easy access to the nearby villages and scenic areas. We have stayed in several of the apartments at www.appartamentialpoggiolo.it. They are spacious and fully equipped. The owners, the Bracci family, are most welcoming and helpful. They produce a lovely olive oil from the family-owned vineyard - Santolivo - "Olio Extravergine de Oliva Biologico." Another plus for the apartments - there is parking, which can be difficult to obtain in Montepulciano. We've attended Il Sasso Italian language school 9 times and will likely return.

Brooke_Herron Feb 6th, 2014 11:49 AM

Enjoystravel33
I lived in Italy for a year and traveled there a few times before and after
I know Siena is a city but it's an absolutely magical place to explore, get lost down winding little streets, and find fantastic restaurants. Day trips abound as well
I'm In my 30s, and love to be active and explore beautiful places and eat-drink etc and I can say Siena is one of the few major cities that doesn't feel like a city

Lucca is alsoa spectacular place with tons to offer if one has a week.

From Rome I believe Hadrian 's Villa is also a day trip. Excellent historic and architecturally stimulating stop not to mention beautiful
Pompeii is a place that really sticks with you, as does Herculanem if you can get to one if these I really think it's worth it. I read the history of the Vesuvius eruption and destruction of these e places before visiting and was quite awestruck albeit sad and thoughtful after visiting.

Just my 2 cents

And if you are at anytime a short distance from Ravenna ( depending on where you book your week) it's an amazing stop with some unbelievable mosaic work and a very picturesque little town


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