Nuut

Dear All

I am a total control freak and have a very thick file I am preparing on Hungary. I know I overplan, but that is half the fun of a trip.

The background: My husband and I am going to Hungary. We are both in our early 30's with two small boys at home. The boys are not joining us on this trip, it is the first trip we take since they were born, so we are looking forward to this trip a lot.

I am attending a conference in Szeged and will be there from 21-25 August. My husband joins me on 24 August and we leave again on 2 September. We would like to see Budapest (I thought 3-4 days) and spend the rest of the time in smaller quaint towns.

My husband likes wines (dry red) and I love collecting miniatures. We would like to work in a visit to one wine region at least.
Suggestions?

I have some very specific questions.
1. I thought not to book hotel accommodation so that we have the freedom to stay a day longer if we like a place. I would work out a list of must sees and we would work down the list as far as we came. Everything I read said that accommodation is very scarce in August and we should have reservations. We are looking at budget hotels (but something slightly above a youth hostel !!). Should we have reservations?

2. Neither of us have been to Italy and I read that there are many Roman ruins in Hungary. Which are worth seeing?

3. Apparantly there is a theater festival in August in Szeged. Anyone know anything about that?

4. It seems that all the thermal baths have separate male and female sections? Any baths I can visits with my hubby?

5. Suggestions for wine tours?

6. In your opinion, what would be the best towns to visit other than Budapest?

7. Are there any discount cards we should consider getting?

8. We planned to use public transport. Would you suggest we rather rent a car?

Thanks so much for your help.
Any other suggestions would be welcome (and added to my growing file.)

Anneke

Giovanna

I can't help with the whole country of Hungary, but I do have a page of websites and other info for Budapest that I put together when we went there in 2003. We too love to visit Roman sites and went to Aquincum near Budapest and then on to a lovely little town (thought touristy) Szentendre.

If you feel what I have would be of help in your planning, please e-mail me.

joegri

Anneke: It isn't clear wether you need to go back to Szeged to fly home or if you are leaving from Budapest. I will assume you don't have to go back to Szeged.
There are some sights in szeged you shouldn't miss; the immense cathedral is beautiful, the main Synagogue is a very worthwhile site and the small old town is pleasant.
From szeged, you are not that far from one of the prettiest and most interesting towns in Hungary. This would be Pecs which is thoroughly enjoyable with much to see and do; the Pecs cathedral (11th century), the Turkish Minaret, two beautiful Synagogues (with their sad tales), the Mosque of Pasha (now a Catholic Church), the central square and the area around it and the market streets that branch off from the square on cobblestoned lanes with pastel colored buildings. If you are into porcelain, don't miss the Zsolnay Museum. There are several other museums. The town is a very important center for the arts in Hungary. There are many galleries. It is a University Town. We loved Pecs. Pecs was started by the Romans and there are some minor ruins in the area.
For you, an added attraction would be the close proximity of the major wine region just South of Pecs (19 miles, an easy day trip), Villany. The area is noted for fine reds, Cabernets, burgandies and ports. There are excellent wine tasting facilities.
I calculate that you will have seven days to departure. If you spent two days at Pecs, perhaps a day at Keszthely, an interesting resort city on Lake Balaton (beaches, outdoor markets, a fine Palace (the Festetics Mansion), on the way North to Budapest, this would give you four days in Budapest. Take a day trip to Szentendre from Budapest (you can go by boat and return by bus or train). It is touristy, but it is also charming with a very large outdoor market and a glimpse at riverside living.
I would drive from Szeged until you get to Budapest and then drop the car. It gives you more flexability to stop, particularly in the area of Lake Balaton, at the quaint little village of Tihany for example.
August can be difficult without reservations, but you are going in late August (I assume you do have reservations at Szeged) and there are zimmers all around Pecs and Keszthely. I would make reservation for Budapest. Have a great trip.

Nuut

Joegri: Thanks for the advice, it is very helpful. I thought to spend some time in Eger. You make Pecs sound very exciting as well. We will probably leave Szeged the day after the conference and are flying out of Budapest.

cmt

I've never been to Hungary. It looks like you've already received some excellent advice here. You might also be interested in this useful old thread: http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...&tid=92679

cmt

I've never been to Hungary. It looks like you have already received some excellent advice here. You might also be interested in this useful old thread: http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...&tid=92679

cmt

I was just experimenting and trying to follow someone's instructions for a message already posted by using the back button, making a change, and hitting "post" again. (I just tried changing "you've" to "you have," though both are OK). It didn't work, but instead just posted twice.

Clifton

Nuut,

I'm glad joegri joined in with much more background in Hungary than I have. I did want to say, however, that since you have brought up both Eger and dry red wine in this thread, I'd recommend that visit.

Eger, aside from being a wonderful baroque "city" (60000 population, but you'd never know it being in the center), has the best ruby dry reds I've had. Called Bikaver (Bull's Blood), so far it's beaten any of the Chiantis I've tried as well as samples I've had from other regions. Of course, that's a taste thing, but what a great place for tasting. Didn't do a wine tour, just walked around town from shop to shop and in restaurants, since it's all local.


I still

travelnd

I went to Eger a few summers ago and loved it! Brought back a few bottles of the "bull's blood!" So good! I would definately go back!

Spygirl

The absolute best place to do a wine tasting in Budapest is in the 700 year old Faust wine cellar at the bottom of the Hilton Hotel in Buda-you literally walk down, down, down underneath part of the ancient ruins to get to the bottom where the cellar is located-but then-delight-as there is a small ancient cellar/room lit with candles, soft music playing and some of the most wonderful wines you've ever tasted just waiting to be sampled for the equivalent of $US2.00 a glass (not many bargains like that in Budapest, it's quite expensive).

The wine cellar was truly one of the highlights of my trip to Budapest-which is a true gem of a European city-love it and want to go back for another visit.

As far as hotels, the only one I would consider is the Budapest Marriott, right on the Danube, with those wonderful balconies looking over at Gellert Hill and the Castle. Do a search in the box for "Budapest Marriott" and you'll see many positive reviews, including my own.

jmelts

We stayed many years ago (15--wow) at the Hotel Gellert in Budapest, which we enjoyed very much. It wasn't a "slick" hotel-- more old world and a tiny bit frayed at the edges, but we had a great view of the Danube, and free access to their truly beautiful, art deco spa/pools. Seems to me that part of the baths were co-ed, especially the swimming pools and thermal areas. The tiles alone are worth the price of admission (which I think was free for guests.) Their breakfast was great too, and it was a short walk to get to the center of things.

I also second Pecs, as well as Eger. We rented a car, which helped a lot, as several places we thought we'd stay at turned out to be a 1/2 day experience rather than an overnight, and we welcomed the freedom the car gave us to explore. That being said, people drove like maniacs on the smaller back roads.

Nuut

Thanks to all who have replied.
Especially to cmt for the link to the old thread, it was very helpful.
Do we NEED to reserve accommodation, or would we be able to find some place in August?

lincasanova

we stayed at the marriot apartments millenium. they were fabulous and great location . three blocks or less from teh hotel. and also had slight view of elizabeth bridge from my window. half the price of hotel. and very well appointed incl. breakfast.
check it out.

i was not impressed witht the marriot hotel bar area. sure needs some updating.

i have a thread on my trip ..also enjoyed the spoon café. floating on the river near chain bridge. great eveing scenes.

tedgale

We enjoyed the Marriott apartments, too.

In today's (Toronto) Globe and Mail travel section there is an article of moderate interest on travel in the vicinity of Budapest. Check the on-line edition.

joegri

Nuut: My primary reason for suggesting Pecs was your proximity to that great village from Szged. I too, love Eger. My family are originally from this lovely town. The castle in Eger is Egri Var, literally Fort Egri. But the drive from Szged to Eger is long and for the most part, boring. You would be on the plains. Read that hot, dusty and not very scenic.
While I have enjoyed some years of Egri Bikaver (which also bears my name), it is not a premium wine. It was before the communists took it over. They simply gathered up all the grapes in the area and vinified it all togther. It has now gone back to individual wineries and the reputation is returning. But it has a long way to go before it will approach the wines of Villany.
If you do wind up going to Eger, you would do better by doing your tasting at Tokaj, a short distance away. Not the very sweet dessert wine necessarily, but the very good red and white varietals produced in that area.
I would still recommend Pecs and Keszthely as the more direct, scenic and enjoyable areas on the way to Budapest. Save Eger for a time when you can be in that part of Hungary.
By the way, watch out for those storks. They are atop every pole. They are encouraged in the area around Pecs and Keszthely. "Look out below"! Literally. Again, have a great trip.

tomboy

Just returned. Enjoyed our stay in Eger at the Hotel Romantic. Check its website. Nice patio garden. Helpful staff.

Nuut

Sorry I have been so quiet. I have been reading the Hungary guidebook. I am almost done and have a very preliminary itinerary. I think it is way too full and think we should exclude something. I will post it soon.

Debs

Recently returned from Budapest-lovely city! Let me expand a bit on Giovanna's comments...wouldn't recommend renting a car for your stay within the city limits, but rather rely on public transportation, which will get you in and around the city very conveniently. You can either purchase a Budapest Card, which includes entrances to certain museums and discounts at selected restaurants, plus free travel on public transportation in increments of either 48 or 72 hrs. We opted for the 7 day tourist card (they also have 3 day tourist cards) which is good for riding all public transportation (including the HEV, but within Budapest city limits). The cards do not include riding the funicular up to or down from Castle Hill, however. None of these travel options require a photograph for the card, but you must sign the back of it and be prepared to show some ID if asked. The HEV is the best way to get to Aquincum, the site of the Roman ruins. This is considered with the city limits. It's a wonderful place to explore and we found the on-site museum, albetit small, excellent. It's a self guided tour so you can enjoy at your own pace. Across the street from Aquincum is the smaller of two amphitheatres used during Roman times, which you're also able to explore. As for day trips outside Budapest, probably the most popular, and quickest to reach, is the quiant village of Szentendre. It's about a 45 minute train ride on the HEV, and is considered outside the city limits. If you have a travel card, you'll only have to pay the difference between the city limits boundry to Szendendre. There are numerous places to both shop and eat. The Marzipan museum has delicious things! You'll find plenty of hand made craft items, and just about everything else for sale. One option is to either take a boat trip on the Danube up to Szendendre, or return back to Budapest on it.

We stayed on the Buda side in the Buda hills-we could walk to the Metro staion in about 7 minutes, or there was a tram stop directly across from our hotel that got us there in about 3 minutes (it was only 2 stops). You'll find things a little quieter on the Buda side rather than on the Pest side. Strolling along the Embankment on the Pest side was one of our favorite things to do-there are lots of places to eat (can personally recommend either DunaCorso or DuBerry's)at very reasonable prices. If you have any interest in the Soviet era in Hungary, a visit to Statue Park would be worth your time. It's about a 1/2 hr outside of Budapest, on the Buda side, and here'll you find statues (except that of Stalin as that one was destroyed) that had places of prominence in Budapest during the Soviet era. We managed only 1 day trip outside Budapest during our stayed due to all the fascinating things the city itself offered. Relax and enjoy your stay as there's plenty to keep you occupied.