Okay, I've reread all your posts and think I have a clear idea of what you want to do. I have a different opinion from janisj.

I'm assuming that you're planning to spend your fist night( after arrival from Portree) in Tobermory. Janisj has suggested a cuouple of nights in Fionnephort if I understand her correctly. You are worried about the 100 K trip to Fionnephort and particulary about one-two nighters.

I suggest you spend the first two nights of this part of your trip in Tobermory. Yes you'll have to trek out to Fionnephort for the tours to Iona,Staffa...wherever, but you'll do that anyway. You'll have plenty of daylight hours to get there, do the tours and make it back to Tobermory.You'll have to back track regardless of where you stay. The next day you could spend visiting the castles and perhaps even getting off the main road a bit and explore more of the island at your pace. There is a narrow B road (B8073) that circles the upper part of Mull. Have a look on a good map.

You could stay at Tobermory and catch an early ferry to Oban(it's about an hours drive more/less) from Tobermory to Craignure. Or you stay in Salen for the night as it's a bit closer to Carignure,or take a late afternoon ferry to Oban as you mentioned earlier and stay in Oban. Many here seem to dislike Oban but I tend to disagree especially if you'll just be there for the late afternoon and evening.

The B&B you originally mentioned looks great, and personally I'd have no problems taking the ferry back to Oban, having a hot shower/bath a pre-dinner drink and then off for dinner, ready to leave for Stirling in the morning.

In regards to Craignure, there really isn't much to recommend it and few places to stay that I can remember. Tobermory, Salen or Oban would be much better choices.

I suggested Salen at least twice -- it is more centrally located than Tobermory. If you don't want to stay in Fionnphort, then Salen is convenient to Tobermory, Duart etc, and is closer to Fionnphort. Plus Salen is the terminus of the only two lane road (from Craignure to Salen) - virtually the entire rest of your driving will on single tracks. The drive from Salen to Craignure to catch the ferry to Oban will be easier than from either Tobermory or Fionnphort.

Except for Tobermory itself and Calgary Bay, more things you'll want to see are on the south (larger) lobe of the island. Tobermory is a lovely place - I've stayed there a couple of times. But the things I enjoy most are at the far end of the island.

I don't recommend two 1-night stands - but if that is what you end up doing - then 1 in Tobermory and 1 in Fionnphort would be OK. But I still think 2 nights in Fionnphort -- or -- 2 nights in Salen are preferable.

traveler:

How far down the ladder is a "B" road?? (like B8073) On my map there is a secondary road with the number B8035 which goes from Salen, thru a little town(?) called "Knock" and joins the road from Craignure to Fionphort right in the middle at the western end of Loch Scridain. Is this a road which a regular car can drive on? It looks like a road for a horse and buggy.

steve,
It's been a few years since I've been on that road so am a bit reluctant to give you specific infromation as to its quality. However, I would not call it a horse and buggy road. The "B" roads are paved but will be narrow and single track with passing spots at the sides.If I remember correctly, the roads on Mull are not always in the best of conditions. B roads will be slower,and you will encounter sheep, but I've always enjoyed traveling on them as you do get away from the crowds. As you surmised there are no 'towns' along the road,at best,they might be called hamlets even calling them villages would probably be an exaggeration.

Do not look at them as a short-cut but as a way to explore an area that will be off the usual tourist track.

Virtually all roads on Mull are single track. Plenty of room for one car -- or one coach -- or one lorry. But when a car/coach/lorry comes towards you -- one of you will have to stop in the nearest passing place. That is one reason, planning for drive times is difficult. One time you'll fly through and not meet any oncoming traffic. The next time it can be REALLY slow -- like driving Craignure to Fionnphort during the morning and afternoon periods when the road is full of day tripper coaches from Oban

The only exceptions to single tracks are the A849 between Craignure and Salen and a couple of miles of the A848 south of Tobermory. Everything else -- A, B or no name roads -- are single track.

I'm coming to this late, and I haven't read all of the thread, but why don't you think of staying at Tiroran. It IS a long way from Tobermory to Fionnphort, but the B8073 is fine, if you drive to its standard, and you start half way to either place.

I'm not a massive fan of Mull, but I love Iona, and Tobermory is fine, so I understand your being torn.

I assume the Tiroran House is not what you're looking for (but they have self cateringa nd although it's only a few nights it might be worth asking).

There are definitely places at Pennyghael.

Hello Sheila!

Thanks for joining the party. I'll check out Tiroran...

Tiroran would be absolutely wonderful - - if it fits in your budget. It is expensive but very worth it. You gotta love a place that gives directions "by yacht" "by Helicopter" and "by seaplane" :)

Being on the southern bit it would be well located for touring around the whole island.

I haven't stayed there, since I'm usually on a budget. But I have eaten there and it was brilliant (heck, the budget has to give once in a while)

Unfortunately my helicopter is in the garage, but Pennyghael does look interesting and is in the right place geographically. It also has several reasonably priced options for accomodations.

What does one do in a place like Pennyghael on the isle of Mull if the weather is lousy?

You could have iffy weather - but you are going in June. Not likely to be anything that would stop you from touring around. If it was really bad (not likely) it wouldn't really matter where you stayed.

Now if your trip was in January - that's a whole different thing.

If the weather in Pennyghael is lousy, you go to Tobermory. Or read a book. Or put your waterproofs on and go for a walk. This is Scotland. If you want guaranteed good weather, I would suggest you look at a different destination.

Just dress appropriately and you'll be fine :)

Sheila:

:-) I didn't mean to offend you or the Scottish weather! I have a pretty good idea of what weather to expect in Scotland. That's why I picked June which is supposed to be about the driest month of the year.

In any case, my question wasn't about what to do if it rains, it was more about what to do in a tiny "hamlet" like Pennyghael if it pours. In a big city, one can always go to a museum.

No offence taken (and I hope none given).

The answer I tried to give is as good as it gets:(

Sorry, coming back here late after my lengthy Hogmanay break :-)

Can't keep up with all the legs & I don't know most of them anyway, but just in case...

First, am I right in thinking you have 270km to drive one day ??? By my reckoning, in Scotland that's about 5 hours, without stops.

Second, how do you get from "It's 100 KM from Tobermory to Fionnphort" to "staying in Tobermory and traveling to Iona will be quite a haul...........(200 KM)" ? Where does the extra 100km come from ? Fionnphort to Iona is a 10 minute boat ride. (And btw, according the theaa.com, Tobermory to Fionnphort is 77.9km.)

Caroline:

I'm trying to avoid 2-3 one-nighters during my visit to Mull. I checked the mileage from Tobermory to Iona and BACK. So I got to 100 X 2 = 200KM. (If it's only 78 KM, then it's 156 KM both ways.) That's still a long ride on poor roads to get to and from Iona.

Then Janis suggested staying at someplace in the middle, like Salen, and I suggested (to myself) maybe Pennyghael.

The 270 KM is if I drive from Portree to Tobermory, which I still think is a wee bit long.

I'm still mulling over all the Mull possibiliies, but I think I'm reaching the conclusion that the best thing to do is stay in Oban for 3 nights - which deletes any need for one-nighters, shortens the ride from portree (170 instead of 270), shortens the ride to Stirling (after Oban) allows us to visit Mull, and allows flexibility to visit other places in the Oban area. It's also a whole lot simpler.

:-)

Ah, maybe so :-)

you've gone back and forth and given it a lot of thought. But I'm thinking maybe too much thought. You keep talking yourself into and out of things

Mull is VERY manageable and has a lot to see. Stay <u>anywhere</u> on the island. It doesn't make that much difference. Staying in Oban for 3 nights would be sooooooo far down my list -

Well, unlike janisj, I'd have no problem spending three nights in Oban. I did it this past September, arriving late morning by train. Using public transportation was the best reason for staying in Oban...just easier. I checked into my hotel, walked the mile or so to the small ferry that goes over to Kerrera, a small island well worth a bit of exploration. The following two days,I took a couple of day trips with CalMac. Other than a walk up to Dunollie Castle,tea at Julia's Coffee House and a short visit to the TIC,I actually spent little time in Oban.

That said, I think Tobermory,Salen or Pennyghael would be reasonable choices.

Do you plan to take your car over to Mull, or take the day tours offered? Having a car on Mull would give you a more flexible time schedule. I really don't think there are any bad choices here, just different ones.

&quot;<i>actually spent little time in Oban</i>&quot;

My sentiments exactly :)

The area around Oban is very interesting - Oban itself - not so much IMO. Sort of like Ft William w/ sea views.

The reason I seem to be beating this poor horse silly is because - Oban is a fine base for exploring the mainland thereabouts (though I still wouldn't personally stay IN Oban) -- But if one wants to explore Mull/Iona/Staffa, one should stay ON Mull.

traveler:

If I stay 3 nights in Oban, I would probably take a tour one day to visit Iona, and on the other day, cross by foot on the ferry to visit the castles near Craignure.