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Another Rome Report

Just returned from four fabulous days in Rome. It was the Ascension Holiday Weekend and Rome was crowded-surprisingly (or not) with Italian tourists. We are budget minded travelers. WHERE WE STAYED: Once again we opted to stay in the Hostel des Artistes north of Termini (via Villafranca 20, right around the corner from Metro B Castro Pretorio www.hoteldesartistes.com). Great value for money! (135,000 itl) Very spacious and recently remodeled double room, comfortable bed, ceiling fan (no air conditioning), with in room safe. The only caveat is that it is shared baths (4 on the floor-never a problem getting into a facility when I needed one, plenty of hot water), which is not for everyone, though they do have rooms with private baths available for more money. At 12,000 itl the breakfast is not good value. We prefer going to bars for our coffee and roll, usually buy some fruit from a street vendor. WHERE WE ATE: Trattario al Varesino (Via Varese 5-across from Hotel Venezia north of Termini). Discovered this place on a previous trip. Nice little locals place. Good value simple food. The Spaghetti al carbonara is the specialty and is fantastic. The house wine is good. 2 pastas, 2 vegetables, 1 secondi, 1 dessert, water and wine 55,000 itl. Osteria del Rione (via Basento 20-walking distance to the Galleria Borghese). Another little locals place. Set menu. Wow, tons of good food. Bruschetta, mixed plate of 5 different tasty antipasti, 4 different pastas, 4 different seconds, dessert, wine (a little rough but free refills!), and grappa all for 30,000 itl each! We enjoyed eggplant, meatballs, fiore di zucchini, Osteria dell-ingegno (Piazza di Pietra 45-near the Pantheon, reservations strongly advised 6780662). Our very favorite restaurant of the trip. I probably would have just passed this place by for looking too ?new?, but the food is incredible, the best Gnocchi I have ever had, the Ravioli in Walnut Sauce was also very good. 2 people sitting next to us highly recommended the Risotto. The house wine is excellent. 1 antipasti, 2 pastas, 1 secondi, water and wine for 100,000 itl. They were also nice enough to automatically bring an extra plate for the courses we shared. Gelato at della Palma (via Della Maddalena 20). We prefer the gelato here to Giolittis.

WHAT WE DID: Day trip to Villa d?Este and Hadrian?s Villa. Took the Metro B to Ponte Mammolo and then blue Coltral Bus to Tivoli (Bus 3000 itl each way). A very worthwhile journey despite the endless downpour we endured. The only problem is that the local orange bus (1500 itl) back down to Hadrian?s Villa is very infrequent (1 an hour?) so it might be best to ask at the Villa d?Este bookstore (where you can buy tickets for the local orange bus to Villa Adriana) what time the busses go so you can plan your visit to the gardens accordingly. Also even though you can catch a Blue Cotral bus back to Rome from the front of the bar near Villa Adriana it is a much longer route and much more infrequent then the Blue Cotral Busses going back to Rome a 10-minute walk away on the main road (Via Tiburtina). Scavi Tour under St. Peter?s Basilica. Amazing tour, definitely worth the effort to book this one. Unfortunately we didn?t get to see the graffiti wall. Pre-booking essential Galleria Borghese. Worth it for the Bernini works in here, but wouldn?t recommend it for a first time visitor to Rome with limited time-there are many other places your time would be much better spent (eg Capitoline Museums). Pre-booking essential. Domus Aurea (Nero?s Golden Palace). I am mixed about this one. This tour could be so much better with a few pictures in each room showing you what it must have looked like in Nero?s time. The audio tour is essential to get an understanding of what you are seeing as there is no interpreting guide with you. It is a unique tour though, and can?t underestimate the significance of this place. Definitely try to get your hands on a good book before you go. Pre-booking essential Daytrip to Orvieto. We took the 8:12 train and returned on the 2:27 train. We found this was about the right amount of time. The Duomo façade (mosaics) is incredible and definitely go into the Chapel di S. Brizio to see the Last Judgement, which some people think surpasses Michelangelo?s Sistine Chapel work. We also went into the Museum Claudio Faina. Interesting ancient coin collection and sizeable number of excellent Etruscan pieces. Great views of the Duomo from the top floor windows. St. Peter?s-Our last trip we actually weren?t able to go in due to Pilgramage celebrations. Go early in the morning (we got there about 8:15, but opens at 7) and hardly anyone around, had the Pieta all to ourselves. We were able to go straight up the Cupola-no lines (opens at 8). After our tour of the Scavi we emerged at 11:30 to find the lines and crowds overbearing, not to mention HOT. Crypt of the Capuccini Monks (in Santa Maria della Concezione, near Barberini. Take Metro A to Barbereni exit via Veneto). Bones as artistic expression. What more can I say? Have to see it to believe it. I simply cannot imagine going to Rome in the summer, as it was very uncomfortable in the afternoons May 24-27. But we have learned on traveling in Southern Europe the best way to handle the temperatures is to do as the locals do-taking a siesta by getting a very early start and going back to our hotel for some R&R in the mid-afternoon. We also love the idea of pre-booking sights and wish other places would adopt this idea. The Sistine Chapel and Versailles for instance need to implement this system. It?s nice being able to enjoy a museum without having to wait hours in line and being pushed around once you are in the place. As an additional note we find that for our short stays we enjoy staying near Termini for the ease of getting around (e.g. any bus to Termini will get us near our hotel) and the ability to just arrive, walk and drop off your luggage without spending valuable time hunting down your hotel. We have never felt unsafe in Rome and have never been approached by Gypsies. Just keep alert but not paranoid.

Thanks for the great info, Chris. My fiance and I are travelling to Italy for our honeymoon in July. We'll be inRome for three days--so I'm going to print out this info to take with us...and I'm going to take your advice and get out as early in the a.m. as possible and take a break in the afternoon. We've already gotten a reservation for the Scavi tour and are looking forward to it. However, what's the graffiti wall? I'm not sure that I've heard of it before. We're staying at Hotel King? Did you pass it in your travels? It's supposed to be centrally located, but I can't recall what area. FYI: It's our first trip to Rome, so we're going to try to see as much as we can.

Also should mention that the hotel roomsat des Artistes have sinks and mirrors in each room. crc, Congratulations on your upcoming wedding. Italy is a great place for a honeymoon. For you first time in Rome, Definitely recommend you do a walking tour on your first day. We liked the evening Ancient Rome tour from Enjoy Rome www.enjoyrome.com. Others here have highly recommended the Scala Reale Tours www.scalareale.org. Of course you'll want to go into the Vatican Musuem for the Sistine Chapel too. I have heard mixed reports on what time of day is best to go. We went first thing. Lined up by 8:00 and went straight for the Sistine Chapel, but even then it was still a little too close for enjoyment (this in November last year). When we went back through later though at 11:00 it was even worse. I have heard that going later in the day is a better idea. Also read I, Cladius (if you already have not) for fascinating insight into the Roman Emperors. It will make you appreciate all the ancient ruins that much more. I do not remember seeing Hotel King, but I did a search and it is at Via Sistina 131, certainly central-near Spanish Steps, Borghese Gardens and Barberini. Easy walking to all the sights.

Very good report Chris--you write well.

Thanks for the reply, Chris, and for the other information you've provided to me. I've made a note of the tour operators and will definitely plan to take a tour the first day we're there. Will keep you posted...and thanks again.