Another request for help with Tuscan itinerary
I know this subject has been discussed a lot but I'm driving myself crazy trying to figure out how to spend our time in Tuscany. I don't have time to think about this anymore so I hope you all will tell me what to do! :)
We are picking up a car at the airport in Florence on Sunday May 15 and we'll be staying three nights 12 km south of Siena in Monteroni di Arbia (San Fabiano) Monday we wanted to see some of the towns and countryside and arrive at San Fabiano about dinner time. I thought about doing a loop and taking the highway south Montepulciano through Pienza and the Montalcino and then north on SS2 to Monteroni. Is that too much to do in one day? Will we get in really late? My mom is in her 60s but in good health. None of us are big athletes. Monday is pretty set. We are riding horses (Mom's lounging by the pool) for three hours in the am then going up to Siena for the afternoon and evening (dinner at Cane e Gato) Tuesday, I thought about a day trip to Orvieto and Civita, for sightseeing, ceramics and lunch at I Setti Consoli. My problem is I feel like we won't be seeing enough or we're missing something we shouldn't miss. Also I don't know if Monday's itinerary is too ambitious. I don't want to be driving a lot after dark and we want to get in early enough to see the place we'll be staying if possible. Is the drive to Orvieto worth it or should we be spending our time elsewhere? We really want to keep it simple and not run ourselves ragged but also get a good sense of the "flavor" of Tuscany and see at least a couple of the classic hill towns. Thanks SO MUCH for any input. Now I'm gonna quit obsessing about this. Kay 37 days!! |
Hi K,
Calm down. Open a bottle of Orvieto Classico. Cut up a little Mortadella and toast some Tuscan bread. Sit down and slowly sip and nibble. Get into the mood of "il dolce far niente". So what if you don't see everything? You will see something else. Please keep detailed notes on Canne e Gato and I Sette Consoli, and let us know about your meals there. ((I)) |
Sip sip, ah yes that's better! :)
Thanks Ira! I am another one who plans trips around food choices! We're also gonna eat at Corte Sconta--not sure how my meat and potatoes non veggie eating sister's gonna do with all this, but there's always pasta and dessert! |
Here's the full itinerary for anyone who's interested...
May 7 Saturday (Sorrento) Pick up Campania Arte Card for local sights and trains at the airport Fly into Naples, Curreriviaggi Shuttle bus to Sorrento (11:30 or 1:00, reserved) Walk around Sorrento, lounge by the pool, and dinner at il Buco http://www.ilbucoristorante.it/ May 8 Sunday Settimo Cielo Wake up early and meet Carmine Monetti for Amalfi Coast tour at 8:00 am Amalfi Coast and Paestum (Greek ruins) Return 6 pm May 9 Monday Circumvensuvia train to Pompeii Get local guide at the gate and tour Pompeii (2-3 hours) Train to Naples (get ticket for La Spezia for tomorrow) Visit Archeological Museum and city walk Pizzeria Bellini for early dinner May 10 Tuesday Train to La Spezia at 7:30 am. Local train to Vernazza, arrive about 3:00pm; pick up Cinque Terre card at the train station Walk aroung Vernazza, vino at the breakwater; Dinner at Ristorante Castello (the castle restaurant) May 11 Wednesday Hike between five villages and explore villages; boat ride back to Vernazza May 12 Thursday Train to Florence from La Spezia; leave by noon Rennaissance walk around Florence May 13 Friday Reservation for Uffuzi 11 am Walk around and see sights of Florence Dinner La Giostra http://www.ristorantelagiostra.com May 14 Saturday Reservation for Accademia 11 am Dinner ideas: Osteria Del Cinghale Bianco or Il Ritrovo www.cinghialebianco.it May 15 Sunday San Fabiano Bus to airport, pick up car Visit Montepulciano, Pienza, Montanlcino (if time) and drive to San Fabiano May 16 Monday San Fabiano Horseback riding in the am; lounge by the pool Visit Siena in the afternoon Dinner- Cane e Gato www.departures.com/bb/bb_0301_caneegato.html May 17 Tuesday San Fabiano Day trip to Orvieto and Civita Lunch at I Setti Consoli in Orvieto May 18 Wednesday Drive back to Florence and drop off car Train to Venice Arrive Venice Take vaporetto #1 at twilight and see the city from the canal May 19 Thursday Morning tour with Elisabetta (2 hours) Dinner- Corte Sconta May 20 Friday See Venice sights Dinner- pub crawl and gondola at night May 21 Bus to airport 5 am |
Regarding the cheese with the orvietto classico, try the pecorino, the best sheep cheese in Italy. Pienza is the center for pecorino.
I don't think you can do all the towns you mentioned in one day and get back to San Fabiano at a reasonable hour. I suggest Pienza (it's small) and either Montalcino or Montepulciano. I'm not familiar with Monteroni. I think Montalcino is more interesting than Montepulciano. |
Let's look at two of your concerns. One concern is that you "won't be seeing enough or missing something we shouldn't miss" and the other is that you "want to keep it simple and not run ourselves ragged but also get a good sense of the "flavor" of Tuscan."
Yet at the same time, you are planning to not only cover a lot of territory but also to cram most days from early morning to late evening. If it is still an option to change your itinerary, consider dropping Cinque Terre and adding one of those days to Tuscany and one day to Venice just to give yourself some breathing room. Also look at May 9. After Pompeii, do EITHER the Museum or the city walk…both would be too much after touring Pompeii. You also have to get up early the next day to catch an early train. As for your day driving to San Fabiano, make it a nice leisurely drive, taking S438 south from Siena. Soak up as much of the countryside asyou can--this is a fabulous drive. And most of all, keep your plans flexible. If you don't get to one town, you will go to another wonderful town. If one restaurant is closed, another terrific one will be open. Just enjoy wherever you happen to be. |
Thanks to those who responded for reminding me that the most important thing is taking time to stop and smell the vino! We will be busy, but for my mom and sister this is very likely a once in a lifetime trip. Can't skip CT--I got so close last time and missed it (ran out of time)
I also wanted to thank you all so much for the valuable advice I have gotten here from logistics to (most importantly) restaurants! 37 days!!! |
PS I decided to visit Pienza and Montalcino. Montalcino is only a half hour from where we are staying so this seems doable.
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A couple of thoughts from someone who did a scaled down version of your trip in the fall of 03. Dont miss CT. It was a highlight of our trip. We stayed at the top of the hill in Manarola(sp) and loved it. We had a memorable dinner there at da Billy. Tiny, maybe 4 table but the freshest food right from the sea. Family run. Tremendous value.
Also, in Montalcino, have dinner or lunch at Grappola Blue, right in town. ANother fond memory. We enjoyed dinner so much there that we went back the next day for lunch, and the owner remembered us and sat us in the back with his family. What a treat. Enjoy. |
WHOA!!!
Take a break from that trip. That itinerary will run you ragged. You'll be seeing plenty while simultaneously seeing nothing: you will be going from stop to stop to stop without any time really TO stop (and smell the basil). Plan AT LEAST two days where you do nothing but sit in a piazza somewhere, drink some wine, beer, or an espresso, and watch the world go by. You WILL need some downtime. The two days don't necessarily have to be consecutively, but make sure that they're included. |
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