Another Paris Itinerary, May 2013 - But I've done my homework!
 

I've looked at the maps, read the guide books, and tried to do this right. I would appreciate an honest critique and any suggestions for improvement. My daughter and I will be in Paris for 5 days in May. This will be our first time, and we have rented an apartment in the St. Germaine area, and I plan to get a 4 day Museum Pass. I'm starting to get nervous as this will be my first apartment in a foreign country, and the fact that I will not have the security of a concierge to fall back on is just starting to hit me. I am very organized and am an independent traveler, so think all will be fine, but a bit of encouragement and advice from well-seasoned travelers or residents will be greatly appreciated.

Day 1, Monday, May 13
Arrive CDG 8:40, go through customs (no luggage to claim), take metro to St. Michael station, and arrive at apt. by 10:30. Take care of business with owner, and hit the streets by 11:30. Have lunch, explore St. Germain area and Luxemburourg Gardens, shop for apartment things, go back to apt to drop off goods and freshen up. Have an early dinner and call it a night. TOO LITTLE ON THIS DAY? I deliberately kept it light, but perhaps we could do a bit more??

Day 2, Tuesday, May 14
Eiffel Tower early in the day
Arc de Triomphe
Walk down the length of the Champs Élysées to Place de la Concorde and the Tuileries Gardens, and pop into the Musee de l'Orangerie for about an hour.
Lunch
After lunch take the métro up to the Opera House and then go to Montmartre. See Sacre Coeur and go to the rooftop and walk around Montmartre.
Visit Place du Tertre.
If time permits, photo in front of the Moulin Rouge and maybe a quick trip into the Espace Dali.
Back to the apartment; freshen up and eat in the Latin Quarter. Evening cruise on the Seine. Use Vedettes du Pont Neuf for cruise (pick last one of day)

Day 3 – Wednesday, May 15th
Morning: Notre Dame, stroll around the islands. Sainte Chapelle
Early Afternoon: Explore Blvd. St. Germaine, Latin Quarter, rue Mouffetard and Pantheon areas.
Late Afternoon/Evening: Lourve (open late); Dinner, Eiffel Tower to see the lights (every hour on the hour); and climb the Arc de Triomphe for a night view.

Day 4 – Thursday, May 15th
Morning: Explore Marais.
Afternoon: The Museum d’Orsay (open until 9:45pm on Thursdays)
Evening: Shakespeare & Co. Bookstore for the 7:00 reading, followed by dinner

Day 5 – Friday, May 16th
Enjoy our last day in Paris! In the morning visit the Rodin Museum and walk Rue cler. Then, wander, shop, revisit places, or do things we didn’t get done! Maybe see an opera or ballet evening performance at the Opera Garnier. Pack for an early morning wake up (we need to leave apt. by 10am) and flight to Florence!

I realize there is a lot of free time here, but I've tried not to cram too much into one day. I want to leave time for shopping, people watching, and just experiencing the city (and getting lost!).

I would love to see Versailles, but feel it might be trying to do too much, and I don't know how to rearrange the schedule to accommodate it. I thought Thursday could be a good day for this, but one of the few things we can't skip is the Museum d’Orsay - it is a high priority. Opinions?

Last (for now), any experience with the O Chateau wine tasting or actual dining there? We will be in Florence and Rome and will do wine tastings there. Would O Chateau be redundant? It is highly rated on Trip Advisor, but I do have concerns that it might be a tourist trap - probably because it's part of that Paris Pass that's so over-priced.

Thank you for taking the time to read this - I know it's LONG. I do appreciate your feedback!

Day 2 - the Orangerie Museum is closed Tuesdays. I'll keep reading your itinerary.

Day 3 - Since you're going to the Luxembourg Gardens you should move the Pantheon/rue Mouffetard to this day. Stop in Dallayou for some pastries.

Add the Deportation Memorial (behind Notre Dame) - it only takes a few minutes and you're right there. Stop to smell the lovely roses in the Notre Dame garden.

Wednesday is one of the days for the free Notre Dame tour (2:00 or 2:30). It's a great tour taking 1.5 to 2 hours. You'll learn lots about Gothic churches and Notre Dame. The exact time will be posted at the info booth to the right as you enter the church.

You can see the Eiffel Tower lights from the Seine boat if you book the one that begins on the half hour. Or from most of the Seine bridges. You don't have to go back to the ET to see the lights if you're short of time.

Day 4 - Have a list of things to do in the Marais so you're not aimlessly wandering. Paris Walks has a good walking tour of the Marais at 2:30.

Day 5 - visit rue Cler first and then the Rodin Museum to catch the street vendors. They may shut up by mid day.

I like the Marais but I sure wouldn't hang around there instead of visiting Versailles. I wouldn't waste time on the Rue Cler instead of Versailles, either. Other than the Rodin you have an entire day on Friday to go out to Versailles.

The rue Cler can be a quick stop en route to Versailles as it is very close to RER C line that ends right near the Versailles Chateau entrance.

I've had two holidays in Paris and have stayed in apartments both times. I enjoyed it very much, and it was nice to feel just a tiny bit like a local for a little while. We can be your concierge if you need help while you are there!

First, thank you all so much for your prompt and helpful replies!

Adrienne: 1. I should have caught that the Orangerie is closed on Tues. I think I'm in overload! Thanks for pointing this out. When would you think we could conveniently "pop in?" Not looking to spend a lot of time, really just want to see the water lilly room.

2. Re: " you should move the Pantheon/rue Mouffetard to this day. Stop in Dallayou for some pastries." Do you mean to move this to Day 1? If so, with the extra time, would you add Orangerie to this day? LOVE your suggestion about the guided tour. Will do that, as well as see the ET lights from cruise.

3. Re: Marais. I do need a list and an idea of the time we should allow. I've just not gotten that far yet. The walk sounds good, but we are about to "bust the budget" on walks and tours in Italy, so are trying to do what we can on our own.

4. Your opinion on rearranging to include Versailles?

Dukey: I was leaning in that direction as well. I think I could probably move the Rodin to another day. I just didn't want to be "seeing" so much that I didn't "see/experience" Paris. Versailles is still on the table.

PalenQ: Good to know this. Thank you!

Cathie: I just may take you up on that offer. ;)

I did the Marais walk with Pariswalks - great and then go for falafel..

http://www.seriouseats.com/2008/08/b...is-france.html

Kelsey - I've already added that our "restaurant list!" We love falafel.

If you do decide to go to Versailles there is a good argument for going a bit later in the day so that you can see the chateau after the tourist buses have gone. The first time I was there, the chateau was so crowded it was beyond funny. The second time we spent the day in the gardens and at Marie Antoinette's folly and loved it. You could plan to spend some time in the gardens first and then go inside at about 3pm.

My advice would be to calm down. What if it's pouring the day you want to go to Versailles? It's not as if every minute needs to be planned out - it's all going to go to hell anyway, once you get there. Chill. It's good to have a plan, but for goodness' sake, don't think you have to stick to it, and allow for some time just to wander or abandon your plans for something that strikes your fancy in the moment.

Here's another website for free walking tours where you pay a recommended small fee by a local Parisienne tour guide...do check it out: www.discoverwalks.com. We did a couple of tours before, and really enjoyed it...looking forward to doing a few more in June this year!

Thanks for that tip, Cathies!

StCirq: I agree with you 100%. And I thoroughly expect to be doing Tuesday on Thursday, part of Wed. on Friday, etc. etc. But like you said, it is good to have a rough plan, and that's why I posted here. Trying to get feedback on whether it was enough, too much, too little, and just general suggestions. And also why I didn't put Versailles into orginal plan. I want time to just "be" in Paris.

RG: Thank you for the link! I've bookmarked this one and Paris Walks. Both look like great (and cheap!)ways to learn about the city!!

<< 2. Re: " you should move the Pantheon/rue Mouffetard to this day. Stop in Dallayou for some pastries." Do you mean to move this to Day 1? >>

Yes - I did mean to see the Pantheon/rue Mouffetard on day 1.

The Orangerie is a small museum so I would go through the whole exhibit and not short change it. IMO it probably falls best on the day you visit the Rodin. If you're tired or concerned that you're not fitting in everything you want to see you can just visit the Rodin gardens (E1). It's delightful (although I hate the new entrance) and there is enough sculpture in the garden to get a feel for Rodin. There's a cafe behind the museum to the right of the pond.

Are you convinced you need the museum pass (E54)? It's quite pricey and you're on a budget. The combined Orsay/Orangerie ticket is E14 and good for a 4 day period. Rodin Museum is E9, Ste-Chapelle is E8.5, Versailles - E18 (for the entire palace). That adds up to 49.5 but you're not sure you're going to Versailles so the 4 museums would be 31.5 if priced separately.

The museum pass does allow bypassing the lines but you can buy an on-line ticket for the Orsay/Orangerie, the Rodin doesn't usually have long lines and you cannot bypass the security line at Ste-Chapelle. I've never seen a line to get into Ste-Chapelle and I've been there a few times. Most of the people in the security line are not going into the chapel.

I would try to see Versailles, even if you don't do every tour and just see the general palace and gardens. One time I went to Versailles and stopped at the ET on the way back since the ET is on the same RER line as Versailles. It was a long day but I found that the lines for the ET were minimal at dinner time.

I agree with the comment above about rue Cler - it's just a market street and nothing special and you'll have visited rue Mouffetard (really best on Sundays). I suspect you may be using a Rick Steves guide book. If this is so please also consult at least one other guide book that is comprehensive. Rick does not cover all Paris attractions.

I actually really like the Rue Cler and often stay near it, but Rick Steve's take on it is really crude and results in a horde of folks having breakfast there at all the "American breakfast" places with his backpack stickers on their backpacks and their RS guidebooks and just a maelstrom of ignorant tourists, so I never go there in the morning. In the afternoon and evening, it's a normal Parisian neighborhood, except for the folks who get suckered into eating/drinking at the odious Café du Marché, where the blood on the waiters' aprons should be a fair warning of what's to come out of the kitchen.

Re D'orsay/Orangerie - consider visiting on a Thursday as the D'orsay stays open late to tour both :) no queues!!

Adrienne - Thanks again for your very comprehensive comments. I'm very grateful to have all of this information.

Re: Museum Pass - we are also seeing the Lourvre (see Day 3, Eiffel Tower, Arc de Triomphe, Sacre Coeur, Opera House, and possibly Espace Dali. Are there not admissions for these also? We are on a budget, but not a tight one. I assumed the walks in Paris would be priced like those in Florence and Rome, which are running anywhere from E50-110 EACH! E12 is a steal and we may do several. Another reason for buying the pass is so we can go into places we might otherwise skip and not feel as though we have to "get our money's worth."

I am in the process of tweeking the plans and did put Orangerie and Rodin on the same morning. Still on the fence about Versailles. My big no-no is overcrowding and feeling like it was all a whirlwind. I've made that mistake before, and while it seemed good at the time, in hindsight, I wish I had taken things in more instead of rushing from one thing to the other.

Re: Guidebooks - I do not have one yet. I've not looked at the Rick Steves. I've looked at other destinations of his in the past, and just didn't like the style. If you have a recommendation, I'd be happy to hear it. I tend to agree with your Rue Cler assessment, but not having not seen it, I think it's worth a look.

Typically, I check out several from the library, use the internet and type up my own "guide book" that I take with me on my tablet. It's been years since I've actually purchased a guide book. Usually my notes, a good map, and the information at the actual sites are enough. For Rome, I may have to reconsider, esp. the collesium where I understand there is no guidance at all, but Rome will be another board.

rg: We are visiting D'orsay on Thursday. I didn't realize Orangerie was open late on that night also. This is good to know, and that might make more sense than the way I've rearrange things. Thank you!

Need to clarify what we did, we bought tickets late afternoon at Orangerie, toured in relative comfort till closing time around 5 from memory, then went off to D'orsay which closes at 9.45 pm, no queues! apologies to have confused you!!

Thanks for the clarification. Sounds like a solid, logical plan!

REVISED - Based on the great feedback, I've rearranged to try to include Versailles. Since, for us, it's not a "must see," I put it on the last day in case we didn't get everything in on the first 4 days or just wanted to do more of central Paris. Opinions and more feedback, please. Specifically, does this look too jammed, and if we don't do Versailles, what would you add for Friday? I'm quite tempted after seeing the prices, to add more walks, but that would require skipping Versailles. I don't mind being busy, but I don't want to be constantly on the move with no time to just "be in Paris." Thank you all, again!

Day 1, Monday, May 13
Arrive CDG 8:40 hit the streets by 11:30.
Explore St. Germain area and Luxemburourg Gardens, Panthéon Mouffetard, and the Latin Quarter. Shop for apartment things, go back to apt to drop off goods and freshen up. Have an early dinner and call it a night.

QUESTION: Is an afternoon enough to explore the above areas in a relaxed way without rushing. I know one could spend months exploring these, so that is not what I'm asking. I'm asking from a tourist's viewpoint.

Day 2, Tuesday, May 14
Eiffel Tower early in the day
Arc de Triomphe
Champs Élysées
Place de la Concorde
Tuileries Gardens.
Lunch.
Métro up to the Opera House and to Montmartre. See Sacre Coeur and go to the rooftop and walk around Montmartre. Go to Place du Tertre. If time permits, photo in front of the Moulin Rouge and maybe a quick trip into the Espace Dali.
Back to the apartment; freshen up for dinner in the Latin Quarter.
Evening cruise on the Seine.

QUESTION: Approximate time needed to do afternoon activities.

Day 3 – Wednesday, May 15th
Morning: Rodin Museum
Afternoon: Go to Deportation Memorial (behind Notre Dame), Notre Dame garden, then do the Wednesday free Notre Dame tour (2:00 or 2:30). Last, Sainte Chapelle and stroll around the islands.
Evening: Lourve (open late); Dinner, then climb the Arc de Triomphe for a night view.

QUESTION: Night view versus day view from Arc? I only plan to climb it once. Felt like I'd have many opportunities to see day views. Also, is it worth climbing? We don't have to climb everything!

Day 4 – Thursday, May 15th
Morning: Explore Marais (maybe a walk) and/or wander, shop, revisit places we really liked
Late Afternoon: The Museum d’Orsay and Musee de l'Orangerie (both open until 9:45pm today)

Day 5 – Friday, May 16th
Versailles – on the way see Rue cler.
Get back in time to go to Shakespeare & Co. Bookstore for the 7:00 reading, followed by dinner.