Another Bologna update, restaurants, Padua, etc.
 

Sitting in my apartment, seeing the snow continuing to fall, close to an inch now. Very pretty in Bologna with the holiday lights up (especially pretty around Cavour and Via Clavature). The past four days were the chocolate festival with Piazza Maggiore and Santa Stefano packed with tent like booths displaying their delicious wares. Some very creative forms----tools like wrenches, bolts, scissors---and a terrific looking Moka coffee pot. Although yesterday was beautiful, today was cold, damp and snowy.

Not sure where I have left off in my restaurant and other postings but there are a few I have done fairly recently. Thanksgiving was at Marco Fadiga and the group and menu were put together by a friend. Food was excellent and I liked the ambiance (delicious squash soup, turkey, stuffing, perfectly cooked brussel sprouts (and often Italian vegetable here are not cooked al dente but killed) with chestnuts.

The week before I ate at Drogheria della Rossa and really enjoyed the guinea hen and my friend loved her beefsteak secondi. I'll go again. And speaking of again, another delicious lunch today at Teresina. Sorry to be boring but ate the same exact thing and enjoyed it just as much this time (the eggplant appetizer and the pasta sarde next). Nice place and good food.

Lunch area places are still frequently Da Maro, Pane e Panella and L'Olivo, the latter two offering prix fixe lucnhes of about 11e for cover, water, cafe or wine and a primi. The pasta at all are really good as are the secondi I have gotten (although the pasta at L'Olivo has been better than secondi and the salads look great there too). Low Country and her mother were here and we met for lunch at Clorifilla for salads (it was our second meeting since we had such a fun time the first time we met up---I'm looking forward to another get together in the States and hearing all about their escapdes in Rome after leaving Bologna!!

Did a day trip to Padua and really like the town. It felt like a cross between Bologna and Verona. Beautiful stores, markets everywhere (produce, flea markets, etc) and wonderful architecture and magnificent piazza in the center. Well worth going to---very lucky too that we were able to get right in to see the Giotto frescoes after arriving on our walk into town. We had figured we would see what time was availalbe and deal with it (I had seen online that we'd be able to get in at some point since they show availability). Simply wonderful. Walked around, had some very good pizza for lunch in a charming place by the square (but I forget the name) then to St Anthony's basilica which really exceeded my expectations. Huge and magnificent inside, really a spectaular place.

I have been told by many Bolognese that the good restaurants are not in town but in the surrounding hillside and a Suunday lunch with a group of friends (fortunately a driver) helped prove the point. We drove to Monghidoro, toward the Tuscany border, hilly, curvy drive from Bologna on a pretty fall day a couple of weeks ago. A delicious meal starting with an assortment of meats as usual) then three prmis to share family style. A thick flat pasta with almost ground walnuts, topped with tartufo, a risotto, and an exceptionally good fresh ricotta torelonni with tartufo. Next a prok scallopini with fried polenta and......tartufo. Spinach, porcini with polenta, another dish or two, cafe, no dessert and we rolled on home to Bologna incredibly satisfied with the quality of the meal.

The Chritsmas market is up at Santa Lucia on Strada Maggiore by Aldronvandi and it is fun to walk around and has some intersting things for sale. I had watched the lights being set up but did not realize what was happening then saw it all set up, now passing on my way homoe from work. Even though it is cold and damp, it is a very pretty time of year to be here (my first fall and winter in Italy after many, many spring and summer trips).

Yesterday was a highlight day, "Italian Days" with Alessandro, a tour that lives up to all of its glowing reviews. As so many others have said, pickup is early then to the cheese making factory where you really gain an appreciation for all the steps that go into making a fine Parmagiano Reggiano. Good tour then tasted fresh, warm ricotta unlike I had ever had before. Then off to the villa where they make balsami and some balsamic tastings (after gettng numerous packages of cheese to bring home in a few weeks). Again, an appreciation of all the steps and time that go into the final product as well as the differences between bad balsamic and the "real" thing. No Parma ham tour on Saturday so our finale (it was a group of 8 divided into 2 cars and a fun group of people) was a "light" lunch at an organic winery and agriturismo. We tasted 5+ wines, sampled grappa, Nocino---oh what a delicious liquer--ate massive amounts of meats, cheeses, a holiday pork dish with beans and mashed potoatoes. Fun, laughter and a really memorable experience for all.

Have friends visiting this week and plan to go to Da Cesari to check it out and not sure where else. Am trying to find open places for Xmas Day and Xmas eve and do a trial run before commiting. Have read good things about Da Silvio (not open Xmas but maybe the Eve before). On Xmas, Cesari is open as is Da Nello (which I have eaten at and liked). Have not checked out Scacco Matto, Tony's, Osteria Romagnola, Ostreria Broccaiindosso or Al Sangiovese yet........feel free to offer suggestions!

Snow! I hope it stops by the time I get back.

I spent Thanksgiving in Bologna the piazza Maggiore drinking hot chocolate. Then I carted some pumpkin ravioli from Paola Atti & Figli back to the Italian Riviera and ate it with flash-fried turkey breasts with lemon.

Glad you keep enjoying Teresina. Next time you are on the via Oberdan having lunch at Teresina, walk north a bit after lunch to have your coffee at Terzi. The cappucini are ethereal if you are willing to break the mythical "not-after-11 am" rule. The coffee overall is divine. There is a small room in back if you'd rather not stand. Even further north on via Oberdan (but just a bit) is the incredibly tempting window of Salumeria Garibaldi, where I intend to do some serious shopping soon.

For dinner, I can recommend Twinside Trattoria, which is Caminetto d'Oro's less formal joint next door on the via Righi. You probably need a reservation, and make it on the early side so you can insist on a table away from the door when it opens. As the name implies, the menu is non-traditional but you can get excellent pasta primi here, and the wine list is great. (I had one of their least expensive French pinot noirs, and it beat the pants off of even some expensive Italian reds).

I ate a lunch upstairs at Zanarini, just out of curiosity and because it was so convenient after spending a morning in the archeological musuem -- really worth even just a walk through for its historic importance to the intellectual life of Bologna and pure heaven if you are a musty museum hound, guidebook in hand with hours to spare and stare at 2500 year old pottery. Anyway, the food at Zanarini is fresh but that's it, and many of the gorgeous pastries look more fab than they taste. The absolute standout was a perfect half-finger sized mini cannoli, and also some bite-sized chocolate bignes (the other flavors of bigne less so).

I was also less than fully thrilled with Trattoria Serghei, and won't return. I truly enjoyed Da Gianni, but you already know about that. Next week I'm going to Tony's so I'll let you know.

If I haven't mentioned it ad nauseum already, the Collezioni Comunali d'Arte in Palazzo Communale is extremely rewarding.

Is Clorifilla anything special?

Lucky you to get out into the countryside! Train travel is I'm doing, especially now if snow is falling.

Sorry! I just realized the Salumeria on the via Oberdan is called just that -- La Salumeria. (The Salumeria Garibaldi, also with seductive window displays, is in Parma, near the train station.)

Speaking of salumerie on Via Oberdan, I can enthusiastically recommend Bruno e Franco at #16.

And on Via Claveture, at #14, MELEGA makes the most incredible mostarda I've ever had. Keeps forever in the refrigerator.

Keep the details coming!

I didn't realize the full name of the La Salumeria on via Oberdan included Bruno e Franco, but ekscrunchy and I are talking about the same salumeria at #16


http://data.tumblr.com/2NUxiUxbT6ern20v5gaGokPf_400.jpg

On via Oberdan, the caffe Terzi is at #10, and Teresina is at #4.

Thank you for a great trip report. Your paragraph on Padua reminds me of our day trip there from Venice. The Giotto exhibit was a beautiful experience, an intense combination of religious experience and artistic creativity. And the central city is just a you describe it, a great place to walk through and enjoy.

Hi Zeppole and Eks,

Eks, I know you have liked Cesari and otheers have too---trying it tomorrow night.

Yep, do know the other places you guys mentioned and love Bruno & Franco!

I think I forgot to mention I went to Da Gianni at last, for lunch Friday. I like Clorifilla for more of a vegetarian-type option which is tough in this town.....terrific, no, but had been a decent option....sorry Serghei was not a success for you---I find that the case here in Bologna. What one person likes a lot, another does not! Except La Sorbetteria......for sure!!

Bologna - high on my list and rising all the time.

thanks so much for all the information.

I seriously considered doing a day trip to Bologna from Florence just to revisit La Sorbetteria.

I'm an outlier here because I don't much care for gelato -- least of all when it's cold outside -- but the reputation of La Sorbetteria Castiglione is so high that when I spotted it's booth at the chocolate fair in the piazza Maggiore, I stopped and got a cup of rich, dark hot chocolate. I watched a cone of chocolate and fior di latte get scooped for a heartier soul than me, and it did look good. Maybe if I return to Bologna in warmer weather, I'll give it a try.

I had forgotten what you thought of Serghei. I went because it's not far from where I was staying that night and another friend had recommended it based on a lunch there. I liked half my meal at Serghei -- the pasta course -- but a secondi of short ribs and another of duck were a disappointment. That said, the secondi going to other tables -- simple shanks of veal or pork, or roasted turkey with lemon wedges -- looked very good. Half the reason I'm not going back to Serghei is only because there are too many other restaurants I want to try. If I lived in that neighborhood, I would probably go more often. There is a very charming place around the corner from Serghei called La Mariposa that served the single best tortelloni al burro e salvia I've had, but then dropped the ball with ragu and with their secondi, so I hesitate to recommend it to others unless I try it again.

I found my meal at Da Gianna so pleasant and satisfying I forgot to order the dessert that looked so beautiful when I walked in the door (pears in wine). I had a very satisfying tortelloni filled with fresh ricotta and mushrooms -- really nice -- but I was tickled by my grilled mortadella with balsamic vinegar of Modena. I just didn't expect it to be so much fun to eat.

Since I'm not actually living in Bologna, I can load up on eating green vegetables when I get home! (Which is exactly what I do.) The vegetable contorni I saw headed to other tables at Serghei looked good too.

If the weather isn't brutal, I hope to go to Rimini next week.

Sorry for my typo: Da Gianni

Zeppole,
Re:Serghei--all 3 primis were superb and 2 out of 3 secondi (not mine). The stuffed zucchini was excellent and I think the other was guinea fowl maybe....mine was the roast veal or pork and not so wonderful. The gramaglia (sp?) with sausage was delicious and truth is I also just really like the place. Sometimes a place gets a bit of a pass if it feels good, and this did.....no faults with the lunch at Da Gianni. Will see tonight how Da Cesari fares.....

I still have a chunk of restaurants to still sample in Bologna.....and yes, those pears in the red wine at Da Gianni looked magnificent!!

I know what you mean about liking the vibe. La Mariposa -- which is right around the corner from Serghei, on via Bertiera -- has paper tablecloths that are designed so you are encouraged to draw on them or write an aphorism. They've taken the best drawings and framed them. The walls are covered with them, and they are a surprisingly great examples of unsung talent in ink sketching. I'll probably go back and give them a second try.

We had the gramigna alla salsiccia at Serghei and it was perfect. A return trip to Serghei may be warranted because they do appear to do a great job with vegetables. We also enjoyed the extremely varied clientele. Did you ever figure out what the boho decor is about?

I also meant to ask if you are aware that Home Cooking has its headquarters in Bologna, and you might want to check it out. This is where you go into a Bolognese home and get a real home-cooked meals. They offer lots of different menus and the price is fair: 40e per person, wine included. (Plus you register.) I can only get to Bologna on certain nights, so I'm trying to work it out with them to get into one of their remaining evens for the year or in January. But you would have lots more choices:

http://www.homefood.it/index.php?do=...lendarioEventi

I've also forgotten whether I mentioned Diana to you. I think you can get a very good meal there and not break the bank if you skip antipasti (I'm not a fan of spuma di mortadella), head straight for their very good primi (pasatelli in brodo, lasagne al verde) and then take a look at their imaginative secondi, which they change almost daily. The house specialty is bolito misto or arrosto misto, served from rolling carts -- but those dishes bore me. Take a look at their menu before going in. They are not far from Serghei's or La Mariposa or Tony's or Twinside Trattoria, so if you don't like what you see on the menu that day, you can pass it by. They bottle their own wine, a Sangiovese labeled "Diana" and its nice (and cheap). People pooh-pooh the place, and laugh at the white-jacketed waiters, but I think the food is quality.

Maybe it's just my imagination, but thus far, the people who fill Bolognese restaurants at lunch and dinner are some of the most interesting looking people I've ever dined with. Must be that love of learning.

I just returned home from my week in Bologna/week in Rome trip and will eventually do a trip report...but since several posters here played a huge part in my trip preparation I wanted to post a quick comment/thank you.


Kathy...it was great meeting you and we will definitely connect again!

Zeppole...I too had the mortadella at Da Gianni on my last evening in Bologna...I had to smile when it was placed in front of me...that was some piece of mortadella! :-) And the desserts there was great too!

EK...thanks to you we had the most perfect lunch for our train ride from Bologna to Rome...2 panini of proscuitto on the most delicious foccaccia bread from Bruno e Franco and it helped that the apartment we rented was 10 steps from Bruno e Franco's front door. My mom also purchases some of the mostarda you speak of...can't wait to try it!

The coffee at Terzi was fantastic and the place is literally next door to the apartment we rented, less than 3 steps and we were enjoying some of the best cappucino ever!

Well, my Christmas day meal will not be at Cesari. I knew it had gotten a lot of positive reviews (and from people I trust) but ended up so disappointed, which happens. The pumpkin ravioli was very good but I have a high bar for that, especially after ferrara (although that is tortelloni, not ravioli). Neither of the tow other people I was with enjoyed the veal cheek and the plate looked rather pathetic when they presented it with the vegetable flan. It was a let down after Da Gianni.....but then again, people rave abour Caminetto d'Or and I thought my food there was good but not great.....

And Zeppole, that gramigna alla salsiccia is what i had at Serghei and felt was memorable--glad you agreed (and helped me spell it correctly!). Thanks for the tip on the Home Food stuff and I will defintely check it out!

Hi Low Country! Yep---definitely.

Terzi also is the coffee bar at Godot Wine Bar on via Cartoleria and I often stop there for a morning jolt since it is closer than Via Oberdan.

Friends visiting and hope to sample Tony's tonight (but doubt they are open Christmas day which is my real challenge now....know a great place Zeppole??? I plan to make a lot of calls in the next couple of days....and more restaurants to try.....

I would try Diana's if you want some Christmas formality and a bright, sparkling ambience (and even some roast turkey). You better ask if they have a special menu that day -- both what it is and how much it costs -- and if you can also order from the regular menu

http://www.ristorantedianabologna.com/index.html

If you are willing to pay for historic setting, being fawned over and taking a risk on food, you might consider I Carracci at Hotel Baglioni for its historic frescoed ceiling.

http://www.toptable.com/venue/?id=14760

For historic atmosphere of a completely different sort, and also a risk on food, Osteria de' Poeti, the oldest wine house in Bologna, hidden in a basement

http://www.osteriadepoeti.com/it/ost...ro_bologna.htm

I haven't tried this, and it may not be fancy enough, but a Bolognese who gives cooking lessons and whose family has lived in Bologna for centuries (literally) highly recommends All'Osteria Bottega on via Caterina, 51 -- and says you must book far in advance.

Another friend, but a New Yorker, really liked Donatello.

And, if all else fails, why not celebrate Christmas with your friends at Teresina?

Unfortunately Teresina is not open Christmas or Christmas Eve. Just had a terrific meal at Trattoria Leonida and they are likely open Christmas Eve as is Drogheria Della Rosa which also had good food (Leonida is the place if it is open). I feel good about Da Nello having eaten there before and colleagues also like it. Plan to go to Teresina earlier that week so with a day trip to Parma, am pretty well set for my guests!

Thanks for the suggestions Zeppole and for Home Food which I had not looked into at all and will do so. I have heard of Bottega and walked past there when I went to Santa Catarina nearby last month---it is supposed to be good and looked charming from peeking in.

Maybe I'll try Leonida for lunch one day. What did you like there?

Bookmarking for a future trip.
Now that I have conquered my fear of Milan, why not try Bologna as well?

tedgale--Bologna is really a terrific place with great architecture, ambiance, food (although I am not as enthralled with that as some others are---pastas, wines and meats are superb though), not touristy and a most perfect location for day trips to charming and interesting places......do put it on your list (and be sure to do the "Italian Days" tour---as good as the hype and book way ahead).

Zeppole--started with duck breast appetizer, friend had the bresaola with artichokes (a simple but amazing dish),another had the vegetable streudel then we all had the tagliatelle with sausage, porcini, tartufo. Delicious. They have plates/bowls in glass cases so you can see the bright green cooked vegetables (often beigey at other restaurants in town!), the marinated salmon, baked tomatoes, artichokes etc. Meringue dessert for 2 of us and one had a large, perfect creme caramel. I liked the ambiance. Excellent inexpensive Sangiovese wine. It all worked.