Karen

I promised to do a report on Florence and Venice even though I am sensitive to critisism. I want to help other new people as some of you who probably don't even know you helped me, did. After four days in Rome, I was just starting to get used to the noise and dodging traffic to stay alive, when it was time to leave. We took the Eurostar to Florence. We decided to try second class first and if we didn't like it we would go first class next time. There was nothing at all wrong with second class as long as you request non-smoking if you don't smoke. The difference in price was 29.00 to 40 something dollars. Not worth it. We arrived in Florence and I admit I was expecting a city for people that were museum experts and I thought I was going to be bored. I am a schoolteacher , but I still didn't think I would like all those museums. We found our Hotel the Bellittini and walked the one-half block to the annex room I had reserved. It was very large with a real frescoe on the ceiling, very large modern bathroom, small balcony with a view of the top of the Duomo, coffee and tea set up with a pot all the time. Well worth the summer rate of 150E. Also a 5% discount if you mentioned Hello Italy book by Margo Classe.

Karen

I was happy to find out the center of Florence was closed to traffic after being in Rome for four days. We freshened up and left for the Farmicia that has been there since 1612. I am not by my notes so if you want the name e-mail me. I was not too impressed with the place. Just two rooms with soap and other things you can get elsewhere for less. Nonetheless, I bought three bars of their special soap. We then went to San Lorenzo Church. It has two bronze pulpits, and frescoed ceilings. A real Italian wedding was going on so it was closed to the public. If you know me by now, you know I snuck in as they were coming out and the ceremony was over. The church was fantastic, but the wedding was better. We stayed outside at the bottom of the steps and watched the action. The bride had the most beautiful off-white dress I have ever seen in my life. I have pictures if any of you ladies would like to see it. The groom had long hair and was the typical young Italian guy. All the people were so dressed up. The smallest heel I saw was 3 inches. Great experience. We went to the Accademia to see how long the line was. No line. Went right in. I loved all the art and sculpture in there. The unfinished slaves were wonderful. I am now a Michaelangleo super fan. But I was staring at the David so hard, I noticed that the right hand looked too large for the body. When my husband came over I asked him to carefully examine the sculpture and see if anything looked off. He immediately said the same thing.

Karen

Now I hate to admit this to you all because this is the most famous work of art in the world. So I don't know if we are crazy or if the hand really is too big. I wasn't looking for things wrong it just struck me. I would love your comments on this observation.We loved the museum. Next, we went across the Pointe Vecchio Bridge to Piazzle Michaelangelo. It was about 300 steps straight up and my husband was cursing you Dean the whole way. I had your notes with me. When we got to the top he admitted the view was beautiful, and we would never have found it without Dean. Thanks!We watched the sunset up there. There is also a bronze statue of David up there so we were looking at the hand again! We finally left and looked for a place to eat. Dinos was recommended but we didn't really like the menu so we went to Palotino instead.

Karen

We noticed it was next to Vivolis, supposedly the best gelato anywhere. I had ravioli with walnuts and white sauce, my husband had penne pasta with ham, cheese and red sauce. We had a plate of assorted cheeses and honey to dip them in. We asked the waiter what that was and he was trying so hard to tell us in English words. He said "Flowers,bees?" We said ,"Oh, honey!" He smiled yes honey. We also had an order of bread with olive oil and artichoke and bacon. Bread was too hard. The bacon was pure white fat.I later learned it is the fat of bacon. They call it Lardo. Unbelievably, my husband ate it. Our bill was $41.00. We then went for our first experience at Vivolis. I had raspberry and orange cream , my husband had orange cream and chocolate caffee.

Karen

We realized as we were eating this gelato that it was something special. The orange had real peelings in it, the raspberry had the real seeds. This was so fresh and pure, it was unbelievable.<BR>Went back to room , called my two teens tried to write in journal and went to sleep. We woke and had breakfast then went to see San Croce Church. Now that I am a Michaelangelo fan, I wanted to see where he and Galileo were buried. The church was closed due to a "football" game that was going on at 5:00pm that afternoon. They had cleared the square and put down tons of dirt. I asked one of the men what this was going to be. He said football. I said oh like American football, he said no. In American football you say "hut, hut", in Italian football we and then he made a gesture like attacking another person very hard. We laughed. He was telling us our football was for sissies. I never did get to see the inside of San Croce, which is a disappointment, but also a reason to go back. We ate lunch at Yellow Bar, another recommendation. I had pasta carbona, and my husband had Pizza with tomatoe and cheese. We again got gelato. I had strawberry and cream, my husband had strawberry with chocolate chips.

Karen

We then went to the Duomo. Went to the Bapistry first. It was beautiful. The bronze doors are spectacular.Then we climbed the bell tower,414 steps. The view at the top was worth the walk. Next we went into the Duomo. It was gorgeous, lots of mosaics, frescoes, statues. It is 452 feet long and 90 feet wide. We then went to Santa Maria de Grazzi, down to the crypt and saw a 600 year old untouched frescoe. There was no one there, just my husband and I. It was gorgeous. This was one of Dean's off the beaten path suggestions. Thanks Dean. We went back to the Duomo to catch the 6:00 mass. It was Sunday. We got to sit up in the front where usually only bishops and cardinals sit. The mass was beautiful even though we didn't understand too much. Thanks to high school Spanish I picked up a few works here and there. During the day we had looked at the menu of a very small restaurant that looked good to us. We went there after church and it was open!

Karen

The name of the restaurant was Il Barraccio. No recommendations just found it. The meal was awesome. One of the best on the trip.We had 3 dishes each and the bill was total of $38.00. I had Caprese(I am now addicted to Caprese), fried mushrooms, and veal with mozzarella cheese and light sauce. My husband had garlic bread with olive oil and fresh tomatoes(bruchetta), lasagna that absolutely melted in your mouth, you couldn't chew it, the pasta was so fresh. He also had a veal chop with mushrooms. Portions were not too big, but food was A plus! We were strolling home and heard some singing in Piazza Signora. Some young people were a band, and were singing for free. They played soft music from the sixties all in English. They especially liked Simon and Garfunkle. We listened for almost an hour. Met a couple from Connecticut. The were there with three teenage boys. My two teens said they would rather die than come with us. Oh,well.Their loss! Went to bed with dreams of Florence and wondering what my next stop Venice would be like?

Tina

Where can inquiring minds see the wedding pictures?

elaine

Hi Karen<BR>Art critics from Michelangelo's time forward have noted that "David"'s<BR>head, hands and feet are technically too large, but Michelangelo wanted to be sure that when viewed from below and from a distance, the statue conveyed strength and mastery. The statue was made originally to be viewed out of doors.<BR><BR>When you went to Venice and looked at the Doge's Palace exterior you may have noted that some of the sculptures and carving on the facade were similarly out of proportion. Again, it's to compensate for being seen from below.<BR><BR>I've read that's the same reason that columns in Greek architecture (the Parthenon, for one) are each distorted in the middle, so that they appear straight when viewed from below and from a distance. Ditto the columns<BR>surrounding St Peter's Basilica in Rome.<BR><BR>Neat trick, huh?

Randy Malpaso

Stirring work...

Kelly

Great trip report! I leave for Italy in 2 months and 2 days (not counting down at all) The restaurant Il Barraccio's sounds delicious. Where abouts is it?

Karen

Elaine,Thank you so much for explaining the hand thing to me. I thought there was something wrong with me. Kelly, I can't tell you exactly where the restaurant was because we just stumbled on it. I am sure your hotel will be able to help you find it. I will try to get my husband to scan those wedding pictures and let you know how to view them. Karen

flygirl

Karen, great job! sounds like you had a great time.<BR><BR>there is a specific reason his hand is too big - it's not in your imagination! symbolism baby symbolism. <BR><BR>and yes, gelato is one of the delightful things which proves there is a God.

Carin

Karen! You found Il Barroccio! I never was able to send you my notes a few months ago, (sooo sorry ) but this restaurant was in them! We loved it, too, and ate there twice. Thanks for a great trip report!

Carin

Il Barroccio is just off the Via del Proconsolo on a little tiny street perpendicular to the Via del Proconsolo very near the Bargello, I THINK. Good luck. It's near a sort of parking lot for a million vespas.

Julie

Karen, I see you finally went with the Hotel Bellettini (we had passed a couple of e-mails back and forth about where to stay). Also, glad you found Vivolis. Although there will always be a controversy as to who has the best gelato (but it's fun to taste test them all), it's still a favorite of mine. Particularly since it's so close to Santa Croce. Can't wait to hear more about your trip - keep the story coming. P.S. I should have known Elaine would respond re: David's hand - she's so quick - and so good!

Kelly

Grazie Karen. I'll be sure to hunt this one down!

Sue

Karen, great fun to read your report.<BR><BR>A word about "Mr. Mike", as in Angelo, and his statue of David. I think he deliberately made the hand bigger, to emphasize the role that hand played. (It's gonna take out Goliath with a stone.) Mr. Mike knew what he was doing, so if it's there, it's supposed to be there. The statue isn't just a 3d photograph, it is an interpretation of a story. : - )

Karen

Thank all of you for the kind responses to my first attempt at trip reports. I still have Venice(which was my favorite) and Tuscany to do. I never realized how long it takes and how much effort it is to make a trip report, so I thank all of you now who have done one in the past that has helped me. My trip would never have been as wonderful without all of you. Hi, Julie, the Bellittini was the surprise highlight of our trip. The room was huge, modern, a beautiful real frescoe on the ceiling, quiet, I can't say enough about it for the price of $140E during peak season. I ate enough gelato to kill a normal human being, and Vivolis was the best I had in four different regions. Worth a trip to see if you agree. I have been eating ice cream every day since I came home and gained 7 pounds. I have to stop before I have to go to the juicing room, like in Willie Wonka and the Chocolate Factory. Karen

xxx

Yes, David's hands are out of proportion. This was purposely done.