Fodor's Travel Talk Forums

Fodor's Travel Talk Forums (https://www.fodors.com/community/)
-   Europe (https://www.fodors.com/community/europe/)
-   -   Annual gypsy gathering in May in St. Mairies de la Mer in the Caramague (https://www.fodors.com/community/europe/annual-gypsy-gathering-in-may-in-st-mairies-de-la-mer-in-the-caramague-526218/)

julies May 3rd, 2005 06:01 AM

Annual gypsy gathering in May in St. Mairies de la Mer in the Caramague
 
Have you ever been to this? I've heard all sorts of references to this and it sounds interesting. With some re-arranging to our trip this month I could plan a visit to the festival, but I'd like to know if anyone has been and what you can tell me about this. Thanks.

Gardyloo May 3rd, 2005 06:23 AM

Haven't gone ourselves but some friends went last year and the year before. Their report was that the ratio of tourists to Gypsies is veering heavily toward the tourists.

julies May 3rd, 2005 06:43 AM

Thanks Gardyloo--

Did your friends think this was truly a unique event or just another carnival type atmosphere intended to attract tourists and sell food and trinkets? I am interested in an authentic cultural event rather than just another bunch of tourist hype.

Gardyloo May 3rd, 2005 06:47 AM

No they thought it was the real deal and found some of the events quite moving. Their comment was that they were concerned about the event being overwhelmed by tourists "loving it to death" if you get my meaning. It's an old conundrum in the travel business.

humanone May 3rd, 2005 05:36 PM

I was in St. Maries de la Mer for the gathering of the Rom (which is what they call themselves, not Gypsy) and loved it. Although there was a flea market with not-very-interesting junk, there were a few enterprising young people with traditional wagons charging a fee to look and take photos; everyone else was in the modern verson of the wagon...the travel trailer.So that is really authentic in its way. But here are three outstanding features of the days the Rom were there 1) best of all was the procession of St. Sara. She was taken from the crypt of the 9th century fortress church in town, redressed in party clothes and paraded through the town to the sea from whence she came with the 3 Maries after the crucifixion (Hence Les Saintes Maries de la Mer). Every layer of French life joined in the parade. I found a place on a wall as the street met the sand, and saw everything. 2)The Rom sang and danced for themselves near the church after dark; the later the fewer tourists 3)My encounter with a Rom fortune teller about my age in the street where we talked for a long while about men, marriage and growing children, even with my horrible French. Before you go, read "Bury me Standing' and rent the old movie "Latch Drom", which will help you understand Rom history and culture. Also read up on the 3 Maries and their servant Sara, the Egyptian (who the Rom say was not Egyptian but Gypsy). Go, you'll love it, and also will love the marshland nature preserve out of town with flying flamingos, wild bulls and horses.

cigalechanta May 3rd, 2005 05:45 PM

humanone, also add that Sarah was black saint so we know that people were not as predudiced in those days. Beaware of pickpockets who are out on force. The "Caravans" are everywhere, parking is impossible unless you are staying in the immediate area.

Underhill May 3rd, 2005 07:05 PM

The bonjourparis.com newsletter will soon have an article about the festival. It think it would be very interesting.

LarryJ May 4th, 2005 04:15 AM

This is a very nice beach town with a lot of history. It is thought that St. Mary Magdalene landed here after Christ's crucifixion and much of the festival is based on this. It is of course part of the Caramague area and all in all is a nice place to visit. If I were close during the festival I would go there as part of a visit to the Caramague.

Larry J

julies May 4th, 2005 04:53 AM

Cigalechanta--

When you refer to the parking being bad, does this mean I might have to walk 6 blocks to find a place to park, or does this mean that there is no place to park for miles? I guess I want to know if we really need to stay right in the town within walking distance or if we could be somewhere in the vicinity and then just drive in for the day. Thanks to all of you.

julies May 7th, 2005 07:06 AM

Trying again for an answer to the parking question.

Intrepid1 May 7th, 2005 10:41 AM

ttt

bigtyke May 7th, 2005 04:03 PM

Read AListair MacLean's 'Caravan to Vaccares' before you go!

cigalechanta May 8th, 2005 07:10 PM

As I remember there are two parking lots, one very small and this event has grown so large that there's no parking anywhere, So It's best if you have a room in town or someone can drop you off. Be extremely cautious of pickpockets that are out in large groups. If you find a spot keep nothing of value in the car.

kevin_widrow May 9th, 2005 04:25 AM

Definately second what Cigale said about parking. Don't even think about driving into Stes. Maries unless you go EXTREMELY early in the morning. Best bet is to stay in town.

-Kevin

mpprh May 12th, 2005 10:50 PM

Hi

I haven't been to the festival, but am a fairly regular visitor in the summer (mainly by boat).

The main part of town is pedestrianised. But there is a reasonable sized car park by the marina.

People visiting us by car had no trouble parking in July last year.

Peter
www.the-languedoc-page.com

julies May 13th, 2005 05:30 AM

Is this town at all interesting on its own? I took the advice and skimmed through "Caravan to Vaccares"; however, this book made it sound as though the town and area are pretty uninteresting. I'm still vacillating on this as, on the one hand, I really would be interested and then, on the other, I am worried about just a crowded, schlocky, carnival type atmosphere where I will spend every second being more worried than usual about pickpockets. I guess I should also say that we have see the Romas with their horse drawn wagons and wearing their native costumes when we visited rural Romania a couple years ago. I know they are frequently discriminated against, and don't really know enough to know if the stereotypes are valid or not. But, I do find their culture fascinating.

mpprh May 14th, 2005 06:55 AM

Hi

It is a nice place to visit.

Think endless sand dunes, white horses, black bulls and pink flamingos.

There are some good restaurants, but those in the tourist area are less appealing.

Some pics here from google :

http://images.google.com/images?q=st...a=N&tab=wi

Copy & paste to view.

Worth a trip ?

Peter
www.the-languedoc-page.com



gigimc May 24th, 2005 01:25 PM

...just think of it, today's the big day of the procession... right now in the States [EDT] it's @ 5:30/pm but in the Camargue it's 11:30/pm & most definitely, many a soirée is underway... oh man!! I'd give my left pinky to be there right now. I've been twice & it's simply amazing. For those wary, of course it's a tourist/beach town, and of course some gypsies will try to sell you things &/or rip you off... logic would dictate that, but it's up to you to protect yourself discreetly and have fun at the same time. Think. Practice your French, be friendly & ENJOY! If you go down with a 'tourist' attitude [i.e., 'us' & 'them'] waiting to be 'entertained' you WILL NOT have a good time & rightly so... there's a delicate balance of privacy & gregariousness with gypsies [and it's ok to call them gypsies or gitans... I don't know what 'Rom-Lady' was referring to] part of what's so attractive about them. Their culture is different you're not at the zoo. Gypsies are extremely perceptive people & communicate on levels we're not even aware of. You're in their territory. I've loved the Gipsy Kings for a while now, and getting to know them & their friends & family~ the amazing music they produce especially, led me there... and I'd move tomorrow if I had the chance.

gigimc May 24th, 2005 01:43 PM

...and julies [hopefully you're there right now!] nearby towns are great too! Beaucaire, Les Baux, Arles[of course!] Carcassonne, Tarascon, St. Gilles, etc... are driveable & fun to explore~ old mas' ^ castles, the bulls, flamingos, camargue ponies, lavender, poppies, impossibly blue skies... sighhhh.... my left pinky should be very afraid... lol :))

peeky May 24th, 2005 02:09 PM

gigimc, I like your enthusiasm for the town and the people, I enjoyed a day there a few years ago and I would love to return during the procession (with my pinky ring intact).


All times are GMT -8. The time now is 01:49 PM.