Anniversary trip to Ireland - first timers, one week
Feb 19th, 2010, 04:42 AM
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Anniversary trip to Ireland - first timers, one week
DH and I are celebrating our 25th anniversary this year and are looking into a trip to Ireland. As we have 2 college bound children, budget is an issue and we've been watching prices - Ireland seems like it will fit our budget and neither of us have ever been.
I've been reading the threads and am having the hardest time deciding what to focus on with only a week. Our priorities would be to minimize driving, spend time walking every day (as opposed to just driving from site to site) and explore villages - in other words, we want to experience as much as we can without feeling obligated to see every major site (which is impossible anyway). We need to go early July - should we avoid some areas due to crowds at that time?
As much as we love cities, I know the focus of the trip will be the countryside. Should we skip Dublin to avoid all the extra travel in this short time? (I am sure we would love Dublin - I just have concerns with the time frame). If we want to explore Dingle - should we stay there and one other location such as Kilkenny? We definitely want to see a castle. Or would it make sense to start in Dublin and then spend time at one other base to explore the coast? I am looking into B & B's.
I know my questions are a bit broad at this stage - I'm trying to get a handle on what areas to focus on before I book. I am really hoping this works out - any suggestions/input would be appreciated!! : )
I've been reading the threads and am having the hardest time deciding what to focus on with only a week. Our priorities would be to minimize driving, spend time walking every day (as opposed to just driving from site to site) and explore villages - in other words, we want to experience as much as we can without feeling obligated to see every major site (which is impossible anyway). We need to go early July - should we avoid some areas due to crowds at that time?
As much as we love cities, I know the focus of the trip will be the countryside. Should we skip Dublin to avoid all the extra travel in this short time? (I am sure we would love Dublin - I just have concerns with the time frame). If we want to explore Dingle - should we stay there and one other location such as Kilkenny? We definitely want to see a castle. Or would it make sense to start in Dublin and then spend time at one other base to explore the coast? I am looking into B & B's.
I know my questions are a bit broad at this stage - I'm trying to get a handle on what areas to focus on before I book. I am really hoping this works out - any suggestions/input would be appreciated!! : )
Feb 19th, 2010, 06:36 AM
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since you mentioned Dingle and Kilkenny, I'll start with suggestions there. You are goiing at a great time of year. The days are long with daylight until after 10 pm--great for evening strolls or picnics.
If you fly into Dublin, the drive to Kilkenny is doable on the first day. If you drive, stop at Glendalough, the ruins of St. Kevin's 8th century monastery. Beautiful place with a feeling of peace. Great visitor center with good explanation of the history and geology of the place--good clean bathrooms and a pleasant cafe.
However, you could also take the train from Dublin to Kilkenny and spend the remainder of the day exploring nooks and crannies of Kilkenny. Then pick up your rental car on Day 2 in Kilkenny. In Kilkenny there is a castle but it was done over in the 19th c. as a place to live. Lovely gardens. A cathedral and round tower. Kyteler's Inn has good food and music and stories to tell. Early bird specials.
Around Kilkenny: New Ross and the famine ship Dunbrody. You get a ticket with a name on it and then you will see where you would have spent the next few weeks on your trip to America. A guide explains the food and general living conditions. Makes economy class flight seem luxurious!
Tintern Abbey ruins. Abbey was built by monks from Tintern in Wales.
Drive down to Hookhead and explore the lighthouse, enjoy a cup of tea and scones in the visitor center.
Kilmore Quay (pronounced key) is a pretty village of thatched homes with lots of lovely flowerboxes. The harbor is a jumping off point for a day trip to the Saltee Islands, home to many migrating birds. Try the silver Fox for a delicious meal, not cheap but not outrageous either. If you are going latish make a reservation. I was there around 5:30 and on my own but had a lovely table by the window, a delightful waitress, and a wonderful meal. By the time I left an hour or so later, the place was filling up. I loved relaxing over dessert and listening to the Irish voices around me.
Jerpoint Abbey is nearby.
On the way to Dingle, stop at Cashel or Cahir to visit castles, or visit both.
Dingle itself is a pretty town. I think I read somewhere that there are 87 pubs in Dingle so you won't have to worry about finding a place to eat. St. James church has concerts on Wednesday evenings.
Drive around the peninsula. LOts of places to stop off and walk. Visit Gallarus Oratory, built over a thousand years ago with only stones, no mortar, but still waterproof. Stop in Dunquin for the Blasket Island center which explains those islands lying just offshore, uninhabited since 1955. From Dunquin you can get a boat out to visit the islands (take your sandwiches and fruit with you as there are no tourist services available (there is a hostel open during the summer, but visitors bring their own food) Lots of walking here. I believe there is also a boat from Dingle out to the Blaskets.
Go to Inch Strand (beach) and walk the sands. The beach scenes in Ryan's Daughter were filmed here.
Drive over the Conor Pass for stunning scenery and out to Castle Gregory for some beach walking. Or go on to Blennerville and the windmill there. There is a narrowgauge railroad that will take you into Tralee and back. Tralee has a visitor center with interesting history. Walk through the park full of roses.
You can do the Ring of Kerry from Dingle. I know many here do not like that as well as Dingle, but I find it interesting and wonderful scenery. sneem and Waterville are two of my favorite village in which to stop. Visit the Staigue Fort, a prehistoric structure with walls 12 feet thick. It is not well signposted and the road up to it is narrow so tour busses cannot navigate here. This is all to the good and you may well have the place to yourselves.
Or you might make Kilarney a day trip from Dingle. Visit Ross Castle, take a jaunting cart ride, walk up to the Gap of Dunloe, or Torc Waterfall, visit Muckross house, gardens and farm museum.
On your next to last day, drive back to Dublin airport, check into a hotel at the airport and drive to Trim for another castle, a medieval pile. Sleep tight and catch your flight the next day.
An alternative would be to fly into Dublin and out of Shannon. In which case you would drive to Shannon for your last night and maybe attend the medieval banquet at Bunratty--lots of tourists but also lots of laughs.
So you can see that there is lots to see and do just basing yourself in two places. And it is nice to come home to a familiar place at the end of the day. If you stay in B&Bs, your host or hostess will also have lots of suggestions for you.
Another choice would be to fly in and out of Shannon. Drive to Dingle for you first day. Do some of the stuff mentioned above and then go back and stay a few days in Ennis, which is an easy drive to the airport and has pubs aplenty.
From Ennis: Drive up to the Cliffs of Moher, explore the Burren which looks like a barren rocky field stretching for miles. However, if you get out and walk you will find all sorts of wildflowers growing in the cracks. This unique environment hosts both alpine and warmer climate flora. The visitor center in Kilfenora is a good stop. You'll find the Poulnabrone Dolmen here. Also Ailwee Caves. Lots of tourists but an interesting guided tour through the caves on a two mile walk.
drive down to Loophead to explore and maybe take a boat trip out to see the mouth of the Shannon, dolphins and seals.
Take a visit at Bunratty Folk Park and then stay for the medieval banquet at the castle.
One of my favorite places is Cragganouwen. There is a tower sort of castle, sparsely furnished as it would have been five hundred years ago. There is a crannog, a recreated farmstead on an island in the middle of a small lake. Crafts and life demonstrated. The Brendan, Tim Severin's boat built in the 60's, which he sailed across the Atlantic to prove that St. Brendan could have done it fivehundred years ago and thereby trumping Christopher Columbus and even the Vikings. Walk through the woods and see wild boar (fenced off from the path).
One real deal is to buy an Irish Heritage pass at the first stop at one of their sites. It will save you money even in a week's visit. Google it for a list of places it covers.
I and many of my travel companions save a few pennies by stopping at the first grocery store we see and buying paper towels, paper cups and plastic utensils, a jar of peanutbutter and jelly, some fruit and water for spur of the moment picnics along the way. If we are definitely planning to picnic, we buy a few perishables such as cheese and coldcuts and yogurt. By the way, you cannot get plastic grocerybags in Ireland so either carry a lightweight green grocery bag from home or pick up a cardboard box as you enter the store. There is usually a pile of boxes from which they have unpacked canned goods at their shelves.
Most cafes serve a hearty soup and bread at lunch time, a delicious and inexpensive way to fill up.
If you fly into Dublin, the drive to Kilkenny is doable on the first day. If you drive, stop at Glendalough, the ruins of St. Kevin's 8th century monastery. Beautiful place with a feeling of peace. Great visitor center with good explanation of the history and geology of the place--good clean bathrooms and a pleasant cafe.
However, you could also take the train from Dublin to Kilkenny and spend the remainder of the day exploring nooks and crannies of Kilkenny. Then pick up your rental car on Day 2 in Kilkenny. In Kilkenny there is a castle but it was done over in the 19th c. as a place to live. Lovely gardens. A cathedral and round tower. Kyteler's Inn has good food and music and stories to tell. Early bird specials.
Around Kilkenny: New Ross and the famine ship Dunbrody. You get a ticket with a name on it and then you will see where you would have spent the next few weeks on your trip to America. A guide explains the food and general living conditions. Makes economy class flight seem luxurious!
Tintern Abbey ruins. Abbey was built by monks from Tintern in Wales.
Drive down to Hookhead and explore the lighthouse, enjoy a cup of tea and scones in the visitor center.
Kilmore Quay (pronounced key) is a pretty village of thatched homes with lots of lovely flowerboxes. The harbor is a jumping off point for a day trip to the Saltee Islands, home to many migrating birds. Try the silver Fox for a delicious meal, not cheap but not outrageous either. If you are going latish make a reservation. I was there around 5:30 and on my own but had a lovely table by the window, a delightful waitress, and a wonderful meal. By the time I left an hour or so later, the place was filling up. I loved relaxing over dessert and listening to the Irish voices around me.
Jerpoint Abbey is nearby.
On the way to Dingle, stop at Cashel or Cahir to visit castles, or visit both.
Dingle itself is a pretty town. I think I read somewhere that there are 87 pubs in Dingle so you won't have to worry about finding a place to eat. St. James church has concerts on Wednesday evenings.
Drive around the peninsula. LOts of places to stop off and walk. Visit Gallarus Oratory, built over a thousand years ago with only stones, no mortar, but still waterproof. Stop in Dunquin for the Blasket Island center which explains those islands lying just offshore, uninhabited since 1955. From Dunquin you can get a boat out to visit the islands (take your sandwiches and fruit with you as there are no tourist services available (there is a hostel open during the summer, but visitors bring their own food) Lots of walking here. I believe there is also a boat from Dingle out to the Blaskets.
Go to Inch Strand (beach) and walk the sands. The beach scenes in Ryan's Daughter were filmed here.
Drive over the Conor Pass for stunning scenery and out to Castle Gregory for some beach walking. Or go on to Blennerville and the windmill there. There is a narrowgauge railroad that will take you into Tralee and back. Tralee has a visitor center with interesting history. Walk through the park full of roses.
You can do the Ring of Kerry from Dingle. I know many here do not like that as well as Dingle, but I find it interesting and wonderful scenery. sneem and Waterville are two of my favorite village in which to stop. Visit the Staigue Fort, a prehistoric structure with walls 12 feet thick. It is not well signposted and the road up to it is narrow so tour busses cannot navigate here. This is all to the good and you may well have the place to yourselves.
Or you might make Kilarney a day trip from Dingle. Visit Ross Castle, take a jaunting cart ride, walk up to the Gap of Dunloe, or Torc Waterfall, visit Muckross house, gardens and farm museum.
On your next to last day, drive back to Dublin airport, check into a hotel at the airport and drive to Trim for another castle, a medieval pile. Sleep tight and catch your flight the next day.
An alternative would be to fly into Dublin and out of Shannon. In which case you would drive to Shannon for your last night and maybe attend the medieval banquet at Bunratty--lots of tourists but also lots of laughs.
So you can see that there is lots to see and do just basing yourself in two places. And it is nice to come home to a familiar place at the end of the day. If you stay in B&Bs, your host or hostess will also have lots of suggestions for you.
Another choice would be to fly in and out of Shannon. Drive to Dingle for you first day. Do some of the stuff mentioned above and then go back and stay a few days in Ennis, which is an easy drive to the airport and has pubs aplenty.
From Ennis: Drive up to the Cliffs of Moher, explore the Burren which looks like a barren rocky field stretching for miles. However, if you get out and walk you will find all sorts of wildflowers growing in the cracks. This unique environment hosts both alpine and warmer climate flora. The visitor center in Kilfenora is a good stop. You'll find the Poulnabrone Dolmen here. Also Ailwee Caves. Lots of tourists but an interesting guided tour through the caves on a two mile walk.
drive down to Loophead to explore and maybe take a boat trip out to see the mouth of the Shannon, dolphins and seals.
Take a visit at Bunratty Folk Park and then stay for the medieval banquet at the castle.
One of my favorite places is Cragganouwen. There is a tower sort of castle, sparsely furnished as it would have been five hundred years ago. There is a crannog, a recreated farmstead on an island in the middle of a small lake. Crafts and life demonstrated. The Brendan, Tim Severin's boat built in the 60's, which he sailed across the Atlantic to prove that St. Brendan could have done it fivehundred years ago and thereby trumping Christopher Columbus and even the Vikings. Walk through the woods and see wild boar (fenced off from the path).
One real deal is to buy an Irish Heritage pass at the first stop at one of their sites. It will save you money even in a week's visit. Google it for a list of places it covers.
I and many of my travel companions save a few pennies by stopping at the first grocery store we see and buying paper towels, paper cups and plastic utensils, a jar of peanutbutter and jelly, some fruit and water for spur of the moment picnics along the way. If we are definitely planning to picnic, we buy a few perishables such as cheese and coldcuts and yogurt. By the way, you cannot get plastic grocerybags in Ireland so either carry a lightweight green grocery bag from home or pick up a cardboard box as you enter the store. There is usually a pile of boxes from which they have unpacked canned goods at their shelves.
Most cafes serve a hearty soup and bread at lunch time, a delicious and inexpensive way to fill up.
Feb 19th, 2010, 06:44 AM
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If you google any of these places and click on the images choice, you will see lots of neat pictures which might help you decide what places you want to visit. You probably already know this, but just in case..
Sorry about all the typos and missing capitals above. I had to type it twice as when I hit the preview button and tried to make corrections, the whole thing disappeared, so please bear with me and forgive them.
Sorry about all the typos and missing capitals above. I had to type it twice as when I hit the preview button and tried to make corrections, the whole thing disappeared, so please bear with me and forgive them.
Feb 19th, 2010, 07:27 AM
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irishface, thank you for all the information! I just printed it out and I will go over it with a map and DH to figure out which airports to go in and out of. Once I book the flight, I can work out the details of accommodations.
Since the car was part of a package (and yet we don't want the stress of having to do major driving), would it be better to add the train in and get the car later in the trip if we fly into Dublin? I think we'll either go into Dublin and out of Shannon or in and out of Shannon and skip Dublin this trip. Generally, I've never regretted skipping something if it meant being able to do more.
Would some areas be less likely to be overrun with tourists that time of year (yes, I know, we are also tourists!) The towns you suggested sound very relaxing - just what we're looking for.
Those pubs sound great!
Since the car was part of a package (and yet we don't want the stress of having to do major driving), would it be better to add the train in and get the car later in the trip if we fly into Dublin? I think we'll either go into Dublin and out of Shannon or in and out of Shannon and skip Dublin this trip. Generally, I've never regretted skipping something if it meant being able to do more.
Would some areas be less likely to be overrun with tourists that time of year (yes, I know, we are also tourists!) The towns you suggested sound very relaxing - just what we're looking for.
Those pubs sound great!
Feb 19th, 2010, 09:21 AM
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Most of my trips back to Ireland have been in July by necessity (I was a teacher). Since retirement I have been in May or April.
I have been to all three places (Ennis, Dingle and Kilkenny in July). They were busy but not so busy that one felt overwhelmed.
If you are flying into Shannon, pick up your car at the airport. If you are flying into Dublin, there is a case for either side. If you pick up the car at the airport, you can visit Glendalough on the way to Kilkenny. Dublin is not as easy as Shannon to drive out of, but I understand with the new motorway which goes around Dublin, it is easier. (Be sure to check with the car rental people when you pick up your car about how much money you need for the tolls and whether you need exact change or can buy a prepaid disc of some sort.)
The advantages of taking the train to Kilkenny are that you will arrive with lots of time left to the day and you won't have to drive on the first day. However, you will have to take a bus into Dublin and then cross the city by bus or LUAS to Heuston station for the trip to Kilkenny. Some Ireland experts may be better able to fill you in on what is the best way.
I have been to all three places (Ennis, Dingle and Kilkenny in July). They were busy but not so busy that one felt overwhelmed.
If you are flying into Shannon, pick up your car at the airport. If you are flying into Dublin, there is a case for either side. If you pick up the car at the airport, you can visit Glendalough on the way to Kilkenny. Dublin is not as easy as Shannon to drive out of, but I understand with the new motorway which goes around Dublin, it is easier. (Be sure to check with the car rental people when you pick up your car about how much money you need for the tolls and whether you need exact change or can buy a prepaid disc of some sort.)
The advantages of taking the train to Kilkenny are that you will arrive with lots of time left to the day and you won't have to drive on the first day. However, you will have to take a bus into Dublin and then cross the city by bus or LUAS to Heuston station for the trip to Kilkenny. Some Ireland experts may be better able to fill you in on what is the best way.
Feb 20th, 2010, 10:00 AM
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Yeah, I think our plans are coming together. We are very excited - I hope to lock it in on Monday.
So...based on my criteria of wanting to just enjoy the experience rather than overdoing the driving, we've decided to fly in and out of Shannon. We'll spend the first 2 nights in Ennis so we can explore the Cliffs of Moher and maybe the Aran Islands and then we'll spend the rest of the time near Kenmare, exploring that area. We'll go back to Ennis for the last night before we fly home.
irishface, you'll be happy to know I've circled key things in your very helpful itinerary and I've already written all over my map. Now, I get to spend the time going over a pile of books I just borrowed from a friend.
I really appreciate your suggestions - please keep them coming if you think of anything else. Yes, I know all about the teacher's calendar - hopefully July crowds won't be too bad...I think once we hit the trails we should be fine.
Thanks again!
So...based on my criteria of wanting to just enjoy the experience rather than overdoing the driving, we've decided to fly in and out of Shannon. We'll spend the first 2 nights in Ennis so we can explore the Cliffs of Moher and maybe the Aran Islands and then we'll spend the rest of the time near Kenmare, exploring that area. We'll go back to Ennis for the last night before we fly home.
irishface, you'll be happy to know I've circled key things in your very helpful itinerary and I've already written all over my map. Now, I get to spend the time going over a pile of books I just borrowed from a friend.
I really appreciate your suggestions - please keep them coming if you think of anything else. Yes, I know all about the teacher's calendar - hopefully July crowds won't be too bad...I think once we hit the trails we should be fine.
Thanks again!
Feb 21st, 2010, 12:58 AM
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Do visit the Aran Islands. Get some more information at the Aran Islands information website:
http://www.aranisland.info
http://www.aranisland.info
Feb 21st, 2010, 01:35 PM
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since you are going to be in Kenmare, take a drive down to Glengarriff and take a short boatride out to Garinish Island.
It was bare rock until the 1920's when some rich toff bought it up and created a beautiful set of gardens there. The bost is just a little putt-putt sort of boat. Our boatmen took us close to rocks where seal were sunbathing the last time I was there. I don't remember whether there was any place to eat out there; we spent a couple of hours and then came back and ate at a place in town.
When you drive the ROK, stop in Portmagee and visit the Skellig center. It will explain those pointy rocks that you may or may not be able to see just off the coast of Kerry.
When you drive from Ennis to Kenmare, I recommend driving down to Killimer along the Shannon (lovely scenery in some places) and catching the ferry across the river. Ferry goes either every hour or every half hour. It is not a long trip, but you do have time to get out and stretch your legs on the journey over. This route avoids Limerick traffic.
The Staigue Fort is near Castlecove on the main route around the ROK.
It was bare rock until the 1920's when some rich toff bought it up and created a beautiful set of gardens there. The bost is just a little putt-putt sort of boat. Our boatmen took us close to rocks where seal were sunbathing the last time I was there. I don't remember whether there was any place to eat out there; we spent a couple of hours and then came back and ate at a place in town.
When you drive the ROK, stop in Portmagee and visit the Skellig center. It will explain those pointy rocks that you may or may not be able to see just off the coast of Kerry.
When you drive from Ennis to Kenmare, I recommend driving down to Killimer along the Shannon (lovely scenery in some places) and catching the ferry across the river. Ferry goes either every hour or every half hour. It is not a long trip, but you do have time to get out and stretch your legs on the journey over. This route avoids Limerick traffic.
The Staigue Fort is near Castlecove on the main route around the ROK.
Feb 21st, 2010, 02:12 PM
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Thanks for the additional tips - and how to avoid traffic. Of course, I have additional questions...
I am planning on the first 2 nights just outside of Ennis (is this advisable? I thought it would be nice to be in a quieter setting and not worry about coming in and out in the car). We'll probably do one dinner in Ennis - how is it to drive in an out of or would a cab be better? (we'll be staying just outside of town).
irishface, what is the ROK?
We plan on visiting the Aran Islands. Is this an easy daytrip from Ennis? How long a drive is this from Ennis? How long is the ferry ride? (I couldn't tell from the website). Would we pick up the ferry from Doolin?
We're thinking Cliffs of Moher on Day 1 (or will we be too exhausted after overnight flight??) and Aran Islands on Day 2 before driving to Kenmare area for Days 3-5. Is this overly ambitious? We are staying near the Shannon airport the night before we fly home, so I suppose we could hit some of this on the latter part of the trip.
I appreciate all the suggestions!
I am planning on the first 2 nights just outside of Ennis (is this advisable? I thought it would be nice to be in a quieter setting and not worry about coming in and out in the car). We'll probably do one dinner in Ennis - how is it to drive in an out of or would a cab be better? (we'll be staying just outside of town).
irishface, what is the ROK?
We plan on visiting the Aran Islands. Is this an easy daytrip from Ennis? How long a drive is this from Ennis? How long is the ferry ride? (I couldn't tell from the website). Would we pick up the ferry from Doolin?
We're thinking Cliffs of Moher on Day 1 (or will we be too exhausted after overnight flight??) and Aran Islands on Day 2 before driving to Kenmare area for Days 3-5. Is this overly ambitious? We are staying near the Shannon airport the night before we fly home, so I suppose we could hit some of this on the latter part of the trip.
I appreciate all the suggestions!
Feb 21st, 2010, 02:36 PM
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One word on driving:
Few roads have signposted names and houses are not numbered out of towns. Sometimes not even in towns. Finding a rural B&B needs a bit more scouting capabilities and a good description from the owner than finding a rural address in the US.
Ennis is just a small town. You can easily drive in and out.
ROK is Fodor shorthand for Ring of Kerry.
The Cliffs won't keep you busy all day. You can easily add a leisurely trip through the Burren after you paid your tribute (and paid quite a bit for parking) to the Cliffs.
Aran Islands is something I would do as a full day trip if I stayed in the area afterwards. Doing it as a day trip plus driving to Kenmare afterwards on the same day would be slightly too much for me.
An alternative could be to skip the Aran Islands, and visit Quin friary (few kms East of Ennis), then Cragganouwen, and after that go to Kenmare.
Few roads have signposted names and houses are not numbered out of towns. Sometimes not even in towns. Finding a rural B&B needs a bit more scouting capabilities and a good description from the owner than finding a rural address in the US.
Ennis is just a small town. You can easily drive in and out.
ROK is Fodor shorthand for Ring of Kerry.
The Cliffs won't keep you busy all day. You can easily add a leisurely trip through the Burren after you paid your tribute (and paid quite a bit for parking) to the Cliffs.
Aran Islands is something I would do as a full day trip if I stayed in the area afterwards. Doing it as a day trip plus driving to Kenmare afterwards on the same day would be slightly too much for me.
An alternative could be to skip the Aran Islands, and visit Quin friary (few kms East of Ennis), then Cragganouwen, and after that go to Kenmare.
Feb 21st, 2010, 03:24 PM
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Hmmm, I was just reading about the Aran Islands and we'd love to see it but I agree that it would be a haul to come down to Kenmare on the same day. One option would be to add a night onto Ennis and do the Aran Islands. Or skip the Aran Islands.
If our priority is to spend as much time walking and out of the car and avoiding major crowds when possible (this will be in July), would you recommend one plan over the other?
Re: ROK - that didn't click to me, I was thinking it was the name of some road. thanks!
I appreciate your input!
If our priority is to spend as much time walking and out of the car and avoiding major crowds when possible (this will be in July), would you recommend one plan over the other?
Re: ROK - that didn't click to me, I was thinking it was the name of some road. thanks!
I appreciate your input!
Feb 21st, 2010, 09:44 PM
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carol..
You don't have anything to really critisize in your itinerary, and regarding your preferences (walking, no rush, etc.) it is a good decision to go in/out of Shannon instead of Dublin. Nevertheless, you picked nice spots to see like the Cliffs, Doolin, Dingle etc. - and other people know that these places are nice, too. So you do indeed stay on a rather beaten path, and will experience some "crowds".
A rather blasphemic advice would be to skip everything else and focus on one area, for example the Dingle peninsula. Rent a cottage somewhere in the hinterland for one week. That should also help you to stay within a budget.
Go there straight from the airport. Get settled down, unpack once and you won't have to pack until your final day there.
Spend the week exploring the area hiking, takíng boat excursions, finding your favorite pub in the next village, become a "local" after your 2nd visit, and so on. You would actually have the time to see things, walk along the coast instead of walking from car park to view point and back. You will find enough things to do within 30-60min driving from your cottage.
On your last day you could do the Buratty Folk Park near Shannon airport. It's touristy, of course, but also a nice place to visit for a first timer. Plus you'd overnight in the proximity to the airport which will make your departure day a stressless one.
You don't have anything to really critisize in your itinerary, and regarding your preferences (walking, no rush, etc.) it is a good decision to go in/out of Shannon instead of Dublin. Nevertheless, you picked nice spots to see like the Cliffs, Doolin, Dingle etc. - and other people know that these places are nice, too. So you do indeed stay on a rather beaten path, and will experience some "crowds".
A rather blasphemic advice would be to skip everything else and focus on one area, for example the Dingle peninsula. Rent a cottage somewhere in the hinterland for one week. That should also help you to stay within a budget.
Go there straight from the airport. Get settled down, unpack once and you won't have to pack until your final day there.
Spend the week exploring the area hiking, takíng boat excursions, finding your favorite pub in the next village, become a "local" after your 2nd visit, and so on. You would actually have the time to see things, walk along the coast instead of walking from car park to view point and back. You will find enough things to do within 30-60min driving from your cottage.
On your last day you could do the Buratty Folk Park near Shannon airport. It's touristy, of course, but also a nice place to visit for a first timer. Plus you'd overnight in the proximity to the airport which will make your departure day a stressless one.
Feb 22nd, 2010, 02:46 AM
#15
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That is a lot of think about...but it does make sense to focus more on one area. I found B & B's in 2 locations and I was counting on the host's advice as well. I am torn between wanting to see certain sites (near Shannon) and wanting to just hike and relax. So, I guess I need to figure out what I can cut out. I could cut more out of Ennis I guess - would the Kenmare area also be a good base for what you describe? I could do the first night in Ennis pay respects to the Cliffs of Moher and then the rest in the Kenmare area doing as you describe? I do come back through Shannon on the end so I could do the folk park then.
But I may do a quick search on cottages too - just to compare.
Your feedback is very helpful - thank you!
But I may do a quick search on cottages too - just to compare.
Your feedback is very helpful - thank you!
Feb 22nd, 2010, 11:56 AM
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I believe Irish schools let out at the end of June.
Re staying in or just outside of Ennis. I would stay in Ennis. It is not large and then you can walk to and from supper at the pub. Ireland has a zero tolerance policy toward drunk driving, so usually there is a designated driver who drinks nothing but soft drinks or they frequent a place within walking distance of home.
Re: the Aran Islands. If you go from Doolin, there is only one ferry out and one back each day. It is a small ferry and weather dependent. Bad weather is a no-go; they don't make the decision till the morning, so you might drive up to Doolin (an early start from Ennis) and find the trip cancelled or you might decide to do something else and find that you could have gone. They are beautiful, but, given your itinerary, maybe need to be saved for another trip. Don't worry, there is a lot more to be seen and no matter what you do, you'll have to miss something.
The suggestion of renting a cottage is a good one. However, be aware that especially in summer, most cottages will only be rented for a 7 day minimum and that Saturday to Saturday.
Also I would rather rent in town or at least at the edge of town to make walking out for supper easier and just a quick walk to the grocery store. You can hop in the car and head to the hinterlands for your hikes and picnics.
Re staying in or just outside of Ennis. I would stay in Ennis. It is not large and then you can walk to and from supper at the pub. Ireland has a zero tolerance policy toward drunk driving, so usually there is a designated driver who drinks nothing but soft drinks or they frequent a place within walking distance of home.
Re: the Aran Islands. If you go from Doolin, there is only one ferry out and one back each day. It is a small ferry and weather dependent. Bad weather is a no-go; they don't make the decision till the morning, so you might drive up to Doolin (an early start from Ennis) and find the trip cancelled or you might decide to do something else and find that you could have gone. They are beautiful, but, given your itinerary, maybe need to be saved for another trip. Don't worry, there is a lot more to be seen and no matter what you do, you'll have to miss something.
The suggestion of renting a cottage is a good one. However, be aware that especially in summer, most cottages will only be rented for a 7 day minimum and that Saturday to Saturday.
Also I would rather rent in town or at least at the edge of town to make walking out for supper easier and just a quick walk to the grocery store. You can hop in the car and head to the hinterlands for your hikes and picnics.
Feb 22nd, 2010, 12:51 PM
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Thank you for continued feedback.
I am starting to feel the trip is too short and wondering about booking a couple extra days...? To allow us time for the getting away from it all part and then attempting to see some of the must-see sights...? I'd hate to feel like we are just turning around right after we get there! Should we try to do this if we can swing it? Or would we be able to both relax and sightsee with just 6 nights?
Good advice on the town places and driving.
A friend today recommended going to Doolin for the first couple days (skipping Ennis until the return trip)-so I'm looking at that option (so we could get out to the Aran Islands, weather permitting).
Help! : )
I am starting to feel the trip is too short and wondering about booking a couple extra days...? To allow us time for the getting away from it all part and then attempting to see some of the must-see sights...? I'd hate to feel like we are just turning around right after we get there! Should we try to do this if we can swing it? Or would we be able to both relax and sightsee with just 6 nights?
Good advice on the town places and driving.
A friend today recommended going to Doolin for the first couple days (skipping Ennis until the return trip)-so I'm looking at that option (so we could get out to the Aran Islands, weather permitting).
Help! : )
Feb 22nd, 2010, 03:12 PM
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I just booked the original week trip - DH is comfortable giving up some sights and driving less in order to spend more time in a place. I know whatever we do it will feel too short...
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