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Andalusia, Spain
My wife and I from the USA are going to spend 7 nights in Andalusia, Spain the last two weeks of September. We are going to drive from Barcelona (two nights), spend a night in Valencia, and then drive to Granada. Of course in Andalusia we will do Granada, Seville, and Cordoba. We also want to visit Gibraltar. We are flying out of Malaga back to the USA.
We love to drive around. Can someone please help us plan our trip to Andalusia. Any suggestions for bed & breakfast places in Granada, Seville, Cordoba, and Ronda- Side trips we should do- where to go see Flamenco- suggestions for other cultural activities- restaurants for local food, etc. Sure appreciate any assistance and suggestions. |
If I am understanding you correctly, of your seven days you have for Andalucia, Day One begins with arrival in Granada.
So, this is my modest proposal: Day One: arrive Granada, see Alhambra (get tickets for afternoon) and go to a Hammam (Arabian bath) in the evening -- I enjoyed the Hammams de Al Andalus: http://www.hammamalandalus.com/en/ . Day Two: explore the rest of Granada and maybe see a nearby village or run up into the mountains. Day Three: Drive to Cordoba (2 hours from Granada) and see what there is to see. Day Four: finish exploring Cordoba and maybe a village or one of the big lakes nearby. Drive to Seville. Day Five: Seville. Day Six. leave Seville and spend the day in Gibraltar. Some people might suggest skipping Gibraltar but I think it's worth seeing, especially if you're a history buff. The tunnels are very interesting and so are the monkeys. Just remember to NOT touch the monkeys (unless you want lice) and remember to drive on the wrong side of the road. Also, the legal tender there is Pounds but the Gibratar pounds won't be accepted in the UK so try not to leave with any unless you want souvenirs. After Gibraltar, drive to Malaga. Day Seven. Malaga. Malaga is a vacation destination for folks from the UK, Germany, and Russia so expect to see lots of English-style pubs, German bakeries, and lots of UK and German expats. Avoid restaurants that have out front photo menus or advertise "full English breakfast always available" (unless you want a full English). Do you fly out on Day Seven or Day Eight? If you fly out on Day Eight, I would see if on Day Seven if you can drive to Nerja to see the caves. Lonely Planet has a great guide just for Andalucia. I recommend picking it up. |
Oh, and I am sure you already know this but Gibraltar is part of the UK and UK entry requirements apply so don't forget your passport!
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IMHO Gibraltar is a total waste of time and it seems that their is special conflict between Spain and the UK at the moment - so crossing the border will be very lengthy.
When we were there - granted quite a few years ago - they disassembled our car - pulling out all luggage, everything in the trunk and the back seat - before we (obvious american tourists) were allowed back into Spain - it took almost 1.5 hours. |
I was in Gibraltar less than two years ago and did not encounter any issues crossing the border in either direction. If this is a concern then you can do what other people do and park in Spain and walk into Gibraltar.
IMHO, Gibraltar <b>is</b> worth it. Because history and monkeys. |
I agree the current situation with Spain and UK over Gibraltar may not make it worth the effort and trouble.
I would spend the extra day exploring Spain. |
We ended up renting an apartment through veoapartment.com in Granada and Sevilla and had a great experience.
We absolutely loved our apartment in Sevilla, which was a bit removed from the center and in a great vibrant neighborhood. The architect couple that owns it was lovely too: http://www.veoapartment.com/apartmen...ria-patio.html |
I would keep it simple given you only have 7 nights. I'd stay in Granada and get rid of the rental car on arrival. Stay 2 nights in Granada and then take the bus or train and stay in Sevilla for 4 nights doing a daytrip to Cordoba. Train to Malaga for the final dat and night. Given you only have 7 nights I would skip Gibraltar. I wouldn't give up time in any of these places for Gibraltar and you can't see everything in 7 days. 3 overnight places in 7 days is as much as I would want to do.
Have you been to Barcelona in the past? If not 2 days is incredibly short. Personally I'd consider flying between Barcelona and Granada (or to Sevilla and visit Sevilla then Granada) giving time for 3 nights in Barcelona. |
I'd skip Barcrelona.
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If the flights aren't already purchased that's an idea! It would add 3 nights to Andalucia and give the OP the opportunity to rent a car and do some exploring. They could rent the car and explore the white villages between Granada and Sevilla and if they had to visit Gibraltar - although I'd prefer to focus on many other places. 2 nights in Barcelona is just a fly by and 1 night in Valencia, after factoring in the drive time from Barelona and check in/out of hotel is basically nothing.
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<i>...and give the OP the opportunity to rent a car...</i>
From the OP: <b>We are going to drive...</b> So that's covered. |
I was referring to my advice above where I suggested not renting a car for only 7 days in Andalucia. With only 7 days and using my suggestion of 2 days Granada, 4 Sevilla and 1 Malaga I wouldn't suggest renting a car as there won't be much time to explore and the cost of parking and hassle of driving in the city center wouldn't be worth it. But with 3 extra days it would give the opportunity to explore between Sevilla and Granada.
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Not renting a car is just silly.
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FWIW, I think you are trying to do too much in the time you have. But it really depends on what you want to see and experience, and I don't seem to have seen you speak to that.
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Thanks for all the responses. So, we have decided to spend 3 nights in Barcelona, 1 in valencia, 2 in Granada, 3 in Seville, and 1 and the last night in Malaga. We decided to drive so we can do day trips to Cordoba and Ronda form Seville. We decided to skip Gibraltor due to lack of time.
It appears September is a busy season. I tried to find accomodation on Veoapartment but can not find any places for the dates we want. Can someone suggest good hotels, appartments, or B&B in all the cities except Barcelona. Also any sugestions on where to go see Flamenco, a bull fight, and have good Tapas. Anyhting other things we should be doing in Andalusia for the short time we have. |
This is the only bullfight I could find in the area: September 27-29, 2013 a festival in Seville for San Miguel
Ask your lodging for their recommendation for Tapas. |
Jean- your trip itinerary looks very good. May be we will do a trip with you someday. Can you suggest good paradors in Granada and Seville. I read you are staying in one in Cordoba. Are they better accomodation then hotels or are more for their historic value?
KJA- We are not into museums. We like to drive around and feel the vibs of the country, meet locals, walk the towns, and try to understand the culture and local food and music. CathyM- I am trying to extend our stay to spend more days in Andalusia if possible. Can not skip Barcelona because my wife has business meetings there. Sparkchaser- We are going to rent a car and drive around but skip Gibraltor unless we can extend the stay. We will try to go to a Hammmam and Nerja if time permits. |
Flamenco:
Major flamenco festival going on in Sevilla from Sept 24 to Oct 13 with only top of the shelf artists. Mostly a local and knowledgeable crowd at this Muestra de flamenco festival. Every night in Teatro Central. Info, programme, tickets: http://www.flamenco-world.com/notici...092013ing.html Javier Báron, National Dance Prize winner 2008, opens the festival on Sept 24: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=73bbCu01q18 Also great local artists every night at intimate Casa de la Memória in Calle Cuna, 6. Many of them perform in the festival mentioned above. No drinks, no food, just flamenco for some 60 minutes: http://www.tripadvisor.com/Attractio...Andalucia.html http://casadelamemoria.es/ If I should pick one night in late September, sister and brother Adela and Rafael Campallo dances at Casa de la Memória on Sept 25. They're both regular soloist at the greatest festivals. Adela Campallo: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yE43zB0ihe8 Rafael Campallo: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MZ_g1q47QgU Vicente Amigo is one of the two-three best flamenco guitarists in the world. He performs in Teatro de la Axerqía in his home town Córdoba on Sept 21. First concert in Córdoba in two years. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BPaPOH-cDxc About the "Tierra" (soil/land) concert: http://www.vicenteamigo.com/uk/news/...laborated-albu Online tickets: http://www.teatrocordoba.org/espectá...vicente-amigo/ In Granada you have the great Thursday and often Saturday nights at Peña Flamenca La Platería. http://www.laplateria.org.es/ And you have of course the shows up in the Sacromonte caves. Much tourists up here: http://www.lovegranada.com/places/sacromonte/ In Málaga there will be a Domingo de Verdiales (Verdiales Sunday) on Sunday Sept 29 at noon/12h in the waterfront Parque de Málaga. Verdiales is a local Málaga flamenco inspired music and dance style: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VHflkVcVr9Y Great value hotels or hotel standard hostals, centrally located in your cities: Granada, Hostal Rodri: http://www.booking.com/hotel/es/hostal-rodri.en.html Córdoba, Hotel Córdoba Centro: http://www.booking.com/hotel/es/cordoba-centro.en.html Sevilla, Hostal Museo: http://www.booking.com/hotel/es/hostal-museo.en.html If no vacancy through booking.com, contact the hotels directly. Hundreds of great tapas bars in all these cities. Azahar lives in Sevilla and knows what she's talking about: http://azahar-sevilla.com/sevilletapas/ Bodegas Diaz Salazar is one of my favourites: http://www.minube.com/fotos/rincon/1...slideshow-mode .. and you should visit the oldest in the country, El Rinconcillo from 1670. Delicious local spesiality Espinacas con garbanzos: http://azahar-sevilla.com/sevilletap...l-rinconcillo/ In Córdoba, I very much recommend to go some 300 meters north of the famous Mezquita and into Roman Córdoba around central Plaza de las Tendillas and Plaza de la Corredera. More local atmosphere and affordable and traditional tabernas on every corner. Had excellent meals in some of them two years ago. At night, the two of us used to pay some 30-35€ included a bottle of wine and a couple of brandys. The Hotel Córdoba Centro mentioned above is right here. Taberna Salinas is one of the more famous, recommended by the Michelin guide: http://www.tabernasalinas.com/ I very much liked Taberna El Gallo in C/Mária Cristina, 6, two minutes from Plaza de las Tendillas, and next door to the Roman temple ruins. Great wines - try the dry Amargoso - and fine tapas. In one word: Genuine! http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restauran...Andalucia.html http://cordobapedia.wikanda.es/wiki/Taberna_El_Gallo Here's a list of more tabernas in Córdoba. http://www.cordoba24.info/tavernen/h...vernen_en.html <Malaga is a vacation destination for folks from the UK, Germany, and Russia so expect to see lots of English-style pubs> This applies for much the coast west of Málaga city, but it's totally misleading for the city itself. Málaga city is genuine Andalucian atmosphere, great tapas bars, cafés, terraces, restaurants, theaters, museums, nightlife and 3000 years of history. Within 300 meters in the city centre you'll find the newly excavated Roman theater just beyond the 8-11 century Moorish Alcazaba, the 16th century cathedral, Picassos birth place, the Picasso museum and the new Carmen Thyssen museum. A couple of recent articles about one of my favourite cities in the country: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/journalis...pleasures.html http://www.guardian.co.uk/travel/200...el?INTCMP=SRCH Great Value Hostal Victoria (basic hotel standard) is as central as it gets: http://www.booking.com/hotel/es/victoria.en.html Next door Hotel Don Curro is more upscale and also great value: http://www.booking.com/hotel/es/hoteldoncurro.en.html Tapas bars on every corner in central Málaga. I have a soft spot for La Campana, local atmosphere and excellent seafood tapas. http://11870.com/pro/la-campana-malaga photos: http://11870.com/pro/la-campana-malaga/media A little further up central Calle Granada you'll find El Pimpi, an institution in town and a must later at night. Great vibe inside and fabulous views of Alcazaba from the terrace, especially at night: http://www.elpimpi.com/ Alcazaba at night (with the Roman theater in front). http://www.malagablog.net/wp-content.../trmalaga2.jpg Hamam and Nerja: A friend of mine went to the Arab bath house Aire de Sevilla five times in a week: http://www.airedesevilla.com/ In Nerja, you'll have the freshest fish and seafood in extremely popular Marisquería La Marina and El Pulgilla. Free tapas too choose with every glass of whatever in the bar areas. Marisquería La Marina is about as good as you get a seafood freiduría in all of Andalucía and very popular with locals. Have splurged on fabulous seafood here on many occasions: http://www.guideofnerja.com/pages/gu.../marina_en.htm http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restauran...Andalucia.html Free tapas to choose with every drink of beer, wine or mineral water in most tapas bars and restaurants in Nerja for some 1,50-2€. Dozens of absolutely excellent places. For example delicious free tapas grilled on the spot (conchas finas, mussels, clams, prawns, monkfish, whitebait, baby-squid, sausages, pinchos morunos, mini-burgers etc.) and great atmosphere at El Pulguilla in C/Cristo, just off landmark Balcón de Europa. http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restauran...Andalucia.html And you have of course close to legendary beach restaurant Ayo's with the famous paella: http://www.ayonerja.com/index.html |
I'm so glad to hear that you like our itinerary. We would love to travel with you someday!
In the meantime, I can suggest the following paradors: Parador Granada: Actually part of the Alhambra! http://www.paradores-spain.com/spain/pgranada.html Near Sevilla: I believe the closest Parador is actually 30mins away. http://www.paradores-spain.com/spain/pcarmona.html In Sevilla, we typically use a great hotel called, Casas de la Juderia: http://www.casasypalacios.com/index....ria-de-sevilla I love paradors in Spain (and Pousadas in Portugal) -- they are beautiful, historic, generally in wonderful locations, great staff. We can negotiate good rates for our groups, but the regular rates may be a bit high -- but that's for you to decide! :) Don't hesitate to contact me with any further questions. ¡Buen viaje! Jean Moss www.ipswichtours.com |
The issue with your plan is that with just 3 nights in Sevilla you simply won't have time for daytrips to both Cordoba and Ronda. You'd be hard pressed to do even one. You are covering a lot of geography in a short time and the trip is a little too fast paced IMHO.
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agree with kimhe on Malaga city... A lovely Andalusian town .
Too bad some posters confuse it with some other parts of the coast. |
I think you're trying to cram too much into too little and driving from Barcelona to Valencia will be wasting valuable time.
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jean_moss_583,
A little surprised to see you advertise "Flamenco dancers in coastal Nerja" as part of a highlight of Andalucía trip. Nerja has got much, but a thriving flamenco culture is definitely not on the list. Only very touristy flamenco venues in Nerja with at best mediocre artists offering only the quintessential cliche version of this beautiful art. People can of course have an entertaining evening at El Colono or El Molino, but they should know that this is miles away from the real deal. Several great tablaos/flamenco restaurants along your route in Sevilla and Granada. They cater to tourists with drinks, dinner etc, but in the best tablaos such as El Arenal, El Gallo etc mostly dead serious artists perform. And the finest flamenco artists in the world tour these cities all the time. A night in the theater with world class flamenco artists is also usually much more affordable than a night in most tablaos, and it could be something to remember for a very long time. The major flamenco concerts in Andalucía is updated here: http://www.deflamenco.com/conciertos...andalucia.html Casa de la Memória in Sevilla would otherwise be a great introduction to this art form so important for the city and Andalucía in general. No food, no drinks, just some 60 mins flamenco, and less than half the price of the tablaos. Pastora Galván vas voted best female flamenco dancer 2010 by Spanish critics, and she has danced here regularly during the past years: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k2SBUcrJgeQ No need to settle for less than world class flamenco in this part of Spain. Most people find dance to be the most accessible part of flamenco, and here are some top names to look out for. Seeing any of these can be a mesmerizing experience. Female dancers: Rocío Molina from Málaga: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BRLSLYvbn1c Pastora Galván from Sevilla (above). Fuensanta La Moneta from Granada: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FbO_lw2xWtU Sara Baras fom Cádiz: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l7Q8bhL2gQ4 Male dancers: Israel Galván from Sevilla: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BTXf01hRr94 Joaquin Grilo from Jerez de la Frontera: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xRulzF5KVho Farruco from Sevilla: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wrxGsksJusU Marco Flores from Arcos de la Frontera: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z-FVsvGBsR4 I see you are new to this site, so be aware that it's no advertising here ;-) |
I concur with CathyM - start with 3 days IN Seville and add a day there for each day trip.
It looks like you're leaving in a few weeks so maybe this is just for others in the beginning stages of planning a trip. You simply cannot "do" Andalusia with only seven nights. Most towns need 2 or 3 three days and Seville itself has enough to offer a week's stay. A good overview including all the best tourist towns in Andalusia can be done with two weeks. |
Kimhe- You are amazing! You must know Analusia very well. You could be in the travel & entertainment business. I need to digest everything you have suggested. This is going to be very helpful.
CathyM- Yes, we are trying to extend our stay in wonderful Analusia by two or three days. |
I am delighted to see kimhe's flamenco discussion, since my dancer daughter and I plan a few days in Seville this March, with an added day in Jerez and Cadiz. Very helpful info.
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Just glad to help.
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Approach_Guides- I want to thank you for suggesting Veo Apartments. Great places to stay at a reasonable price. Something different then stereo typical hotel room. We booked rooms at Granada and Seville thru them. Very helpful site with a lot of photos and friendly staff.
Thanks to all who have responded. We are excited to visit Andalusia. Still trying to extend our stay from 7 nights to 9 or 10 nights. Either way we are thoroughly going to enjoy our first visit to Andalusia. |
Bookmarking, looks like lots of great info here. Thanks guys.
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Bookmarking, thank you!
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stokebailey,
You should be aware that the most prestigious flamenco dance festival takes place in Jerez every year last week of February and first week of March. About this years festival: http://www.jerez.es/index.php?id=festival-jerez ... and I must of course add Eva Yerbabuena from Granada to the list above, perhaps the greatest of them all: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=clCZYH5VNWw http://www.evayerbabuena.com/en/ Here's the Rocío Molina homepage, have travelled very far to see her dance the past few years: http://www.rociomolina.net/?lang=en |
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