lowcountrycarol

In early May will be leaving Seville and want to spend one or two nights exploring around Grazelema, Ronda and just a couple of the other villages in that area before returning to Portugal. I have been looking at Rick Steve's, Eyewitness Guide and Google maps for a sense of how long it takes to travel between the towns given the narrow, winding roads. Google maps shows only an hour and 45 minutes from Seville to Zahara. Is this about right? Is it slow going between the towns?

Would like to plan on lunch first day at the restaurant at the Al Lago Hotel, Zahara, go on to see Ronda, then sleep at Hotel El Fuerte in Grazelema. Does this sound like a plan? Was thinking that sleeping in Ronda could be an issue...finding the hotel booked, finding parking near it , and going on to a rural hotel a better option.....El Fuente looks very nice and only 53 euros a night. We tend to like small villages . Would you sleep 2 nights in Grazelema or somewhere else with our returning to Portugal? We would prefer not to be driving in any town that might be "difficult" with very confusing one way streets, limited parking...trying to find a specific address as I don't want my husband to experience a second heart attack. We have driven in most of europe over the years but avoid the confusion of cities when possible.

Any advice from those who know this area would be greatly appreciated.

Ifnotnow_when

tt

bardo1

Ronda is a small town (pop. 35,000 includes outskirts). Grazelema is even smaller (pop. 2200). You would have no problems with driving or parking in either place.

I am not clear why sleeping in Ronda would be an issue. Are you thinking they won't honor your reservation? Any hotel will tell you if you are assured of parking or not - just ask. That said, either would be a good base for two nights. Just don't limit yourself on problems that don't exist.

As for driving, stick with the highways when possible, preferably low digit. Even if it "seems" on the map that you can go what appears to be a shorter distance by cutting through on a 3-digit or (gasp!) 4 digit road. You will be better off going a slightly longer route that allows you to stay on a major highway. In your case from Grazelema: A372 to A382 to E5 to E1 to E01.

yorkshire

Try viamichelin for driving times--I think they take road conditions into consideration.
I have only ridden the bus from Ronda east(wistfully looking at the areas you will visit from a window), but if memory serves those times sound about right because there is a main highway--of course once you are off that, who knows!
I would spend as much time in the area as possible--from afar it looked absolutely wonderful.
Ronda driving is not too bad--nothing like Sevilla would be. I would still prefer a more rural setting for a hotel though.

markrosy

That road is very hard work for bends you travel 3 miles forward then 2 back. I nearly missed a flight in Malaga after having set of at 7am for a 8pm flight.

It may just be me and the fact that I have seen a million and one pueblo blancos but the very high hill towns are not that attractive. It is a very long way to go when Rhonda and Jimena serve well.

It is a lot quicker (from memory) to take the coast road via the Costa De Luz and take in some of the beuatiful coastal towns. Cadiz is a town like no other - the crossroads of two continents.

The other route is via the plain and Antequera but if you thought Nebraska was a bore this route is a whole new world.

lowcountrycarol

I appreciate the replies....gives me some things to think about before planning this. As we live in the southern part of Portugal for part of the year this trip is just a little vacation within a "vacation", not a "big deal trip" and I was wondering about the travel times and ease of getting in and out of these towns. Did not want to spend all day trying to get somewhere that might not be worth the effort or hassle. Some Italian adventures are probably coloring my thinking here. I forgot about viamichelin....will put in my drive routes.

milliebest

Ronda is great. If you need a hotel, try Hotel Ronda -the best place we stayed in Spain and I think the owner has a parking spot.

Paul McGrath does great tour. Itwas such a joy having him do the driving.

PJTravels

My husband and I spent 2 nights in Ronda late October 2008. We just didn't warm up to the city, although our hotel, Hotel Montelirio, was nice with a very pleasant owner. The morning we drove to Grazelema we were kicking ourselves as it was much prettier and quieter. That said, we didn't stay there so I have no idea what accommodations and dining options are like.

We took the wrong exit into Ronda so had a few problems driving, but nothing we couldn't deal with by parking and finding our bearings.

If, by chance, you need a place to stay north of Sevilla on your way back to Portugal, check out Posada Finca la Fronda. http://www.fincalafronda.com/ We loved our time here as well as the restaurants that were recommended to us.

portuense

carol - stick with your original plan; it will give you much of the best of the area though you could get just as much/mpore by staying at Al Lago - their rooms are as good as their food & Mona, the owner, knows loads about the area.

Ronda is lovely too but the high pueblos will be at their best in may - spring lingers a bit there; you should get really warm weather but lots of flowers birds etc. it's a great time to go

lowcountrycarol

Portuense, Thanks for your input. I tried to book the hotel in Grazalema for a second night as we decided to just stay there (not possible). Think I will try and change to Al Lago for 2 nights in the area, then we will head back "home" to Portugal. Your posts are always full of good advice for Andalusia.

portuense

glad to help. zahara are only 30-45 mins apart, going over the top via puerta de las palomas - long winding road up to the pass and stunning views at the top. was last up there in oct and sadly some 'enterprising' character has fenced off part of the summit. if the weather has proven too wet for cows and it's open again, walk towards the radio/tv mast then skirt behind it - you'll come to a sheer (unprotected) cliff which is a quite wonderful place to sit on a quiet afternoon watching the vultures playing in the thermals. It's about a 30 min walk up.
Grazalema is about 10 mins dpown the mtn on the other side. try to avoid weekends if you can - it gets full of visitors then. if you were determined to stay there the 4* Puerta de la Villa is a good hotel witgh excellent location in the centre of the village. Personally, I'd opt for Stefan's cooking at Al Lago and maybe have lunch in one of the rests on the square or behind it in Grazalema. There is now a very good (by Spanish standards) patisserie at the town hall end of the square in the village. If you're looking for other pueblos blancos recommendations, I'd suggest Villaluenga del Rosario (the highest village in the area and home to fab payoyo goats cheese) -p quaint and histrically interesting. Ask at the hotel (there's only one) and they'll tell you about the French taking over the town - they even have a rhyme commemorating it. Then walk up to the ruined church which has itself become a cemetery. Try also Setenil (cave houses - but don't drive in), Olvera (v pretty from afar, castle & big church at top, El Bosque (pretty riverside village on edge of sierras, good for trout, Benamahoma (further up, also pretty, nice ventas next to stream) but basically just follow your nose and don't forget ot enjoy the countryside in between the villages

josele

For driving directions, read my report "Pueblos Blancos trip" http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...cos-trip.cfm?5
It starts from Ronda, but you'll get an idea of how long it really takes, which is usually longer than what you read in guides.
I recommend either Arco de la Villa (in Zahara) or El Fuerte (do not know Al Lago). What I do not is your original plan of having lunch at Zahara, then driving to Ronda and then to Grazalema. I'd go from Zahara to Grazalema at ease, maybe a visit to Villaluenga (in Algodonales there's only the church to se) and visit Ronda next day.

lowcountrycarol

Portuense...thanks for more info. I had already copied your instructions for the walk near the summit where the radio/satellite installation is. Sounds lovely.

Josele, will be eager to pull up your report. Glad to get your advice about doing Ronda on another day after having seeing Grazelema and Zahara. This is the best thing about this site...gettting real answers to ones travel questions from those who have "been there, done that..."

portuense

I realised halfway through writing that post that I'd recommended the walk before - just forgot it was here...still, twice is better than never. If you want a slightly easier walk, there are a couple at Puerto del Boyar on the other side of Grazalema (about 3kms out of town on the El Bosque road. There's a mirador and walks going back towards the village or out along the side of the hill in fron t of you. The views are spectacular - right down to the coast and you can see Cadiz on a clear day. It's a proper track so walking is not difficult & you can do all or some of the 6 or so km walk (I think you could even head right over the top towards ubrique if you have the stamina). behind you is a massive chunk of mountain - another place popular with vultures, choughs, kestrels etc. a few years ago we spent a v happy afternoon sprawled on some big flat rocks just off the trail enjoying the sun and watching the birds...
arco de la villa in zahara is quite pleasant - it's a tugasa hotel (a junta-run chain) so standards are not bad but for the price and quality you can't beat Al Lago - in fact I haven't seen a better restaurant/rooms place in the area. And it's not just because I like the food and the people (though we did have an excellent and very authentic Indian feast there a couple of weeks ago)...

amsdon

We stayed in Gaucin which was our unplanned stop after a full day in Ronda. We are so glad we stayed at this place: La Fructuosa.http://www.lafructuosa.com/index_en.html

We opted for breakfast in the hotel price.
I hear the owner is a great cook but lunch/dinner only on the weekends. Since they did not do dinner mid week we dined at a local restaurant owned by some brits FYI La Fuente I think it was called...had a respectable meal there too. Next day back on the road which as you may know tend to be winding...but lovely.

Aduchamp1

I visited Ronda before it was called one of the Pueblos Blancos. Then it was a charming town with a remarkable bridge, stunning vistas, and a historic bull ring. I am not sure why that wasn't not enough and how this Pueblos Blancos arose?