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Touring UK: Portsmouth, Liverpool, Newcastle, Yorkshire, Cambridge Sept '12

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Touring UK: Portsmouth, Liverpool, Newcastle, Yorkshire, Cambridge Sept '12

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Old Sep 17th, 2012, 03:18 AM
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Touring UK: Portsmouth, Liverpool, Newcastle, Yorkshire, Cambridge Sept '12

This trip was a change of pace from our usual overseas travel – normally we stay put in one place for several weeks at a time. We had just spent a month in France, and embarked on this circuit so we could trace some family history details.

We hired a car from Avis – previous experience hiring from them has been faultless, so we opt for tried and true rather than bargain prices in this instance. Fortunately DH was very happy with the VW Golf they upgraded us to, although I found it a bit disconcerting that the engine stopped whenever we stopped in traffic or at a traffic light. It was a diesel, and made to do this - as soon as you put your foot on the clutch, ready to change gear, it magically started up again! It was extremely economical on fuel, so that was a bonus with all the distance we covered in these 14 days.

First stop out of Heathrow was a two night stay in Portsmouth.

Portsmouth describes itself as ‘the great waterfront city’, and the waterfront and harbour are most attractive, with the Spinnaker Tower standing majestically above the harbour.

Our visit to the Naval Dockyards Museum in Portsmouth proved to be very worthwhile. I had searched all available documents in the National Archives at Kew, to try to find out how my great grandfather had travelled to Australia, with no success.

The librarian at the Dockyards was most helpful, and was able to give an explanation as to how he had managed to travel on a naval vessel for this voyage, even though he wasn’t in the navy.

She said that around the time of the 1880s there were civilians who got to travel on naval vessels. Apparently the ships captain was sometimes given an allowance for victualling the crew for the voyage. Depending on what food was available, he would work out an allowance of food for each man on board, then calculate whether he could manage to feed an extra mouth.

Any passenger was given a lesser food allowance than the crew members, and was also required to pay for the cost of his meals. The librarian's comment was that as his father had served in the navy, and we hadn't been able to find him on any other passenger lists, then it was highly likely GG had been on that voyage, just the way that family oral history had it. It was wonderful to be able to put that piece of the family history puzzle in place.

The cost of entry to the Museum included a cruise around the harbour – very interesting and a lovely way to spend an hour or so. We next did a tour of HMS Victory, the ship Nelson fought the battle of Trafalgar on. It's incredible that the ship is still standing, although I gather that a great deal of it has been replaced over the years. Once again family history was involved – GGG Grandfather .had just started working at the naval dockyards on Gibraltar when Victory was taken there after all the damage caused in the battle of Trafalgar. So quite likely he, as a 14 year old could have been involved in some of that work.

We could easily have spent a full day at this museum, but further history hunting meant we must continue to Minstead instead.

The tiny village of Minstead is located in the midst of New Forest, a very pretty area across the Solent to the west of Portsmouth.

Ms Garmin took us on a Cook's tour of this forest; we discovered that most of the population live in rather grand houses, keep horses, and let them wander all over the roads. So this, combined with tiny English lanes, and the occasional vehicle coming the other way, made for interesting driving, I can tell you!

Anyhow, we finally came upon the church, and what a little gem it was! It was as though time had stood still inside - all looked to be hundreds of years old, and a really unusual design and layout. The lynch gate at the entry even had a long ledge to lay a coffin on as the pallbearers stopped to open the gates and pass through. We found GGG Grandmother’s very pretty headstone just where it was described to be, and were surprised that there were several other couples wandering through the gravestones as well. Later we found out that Sir Conan Doyle is buried there, so perhaps that was their pilgrimage.


Our next stop – Liverpool- was on the route because DH had it on his list of ‘must see’ places, and it made a convenient stop between Portsmouth and the Yorkshire Dales.

We decided to stay on the southern side of the Mersey, at New Brighton. Our Travelodge had magnificent harbour and ocean views, and was virtually brand new. We had chosen to use Travelodge for most of our accommodation, because previous experience with them had been perfectly adequate for our needs – clean, comfortable beds, good bathrooms being the main criteria.

Unfortunately experience has now taught us this isn’t always so – the standard of accommodation varied from excellent (New Brighton and York Central), to downright grotty! In future we’ll take good note of on-line reviews before we make a booking, I can tell you!

Public transport from New Brighton was excellent, meaning the car could stay put for the two days we were there. There’s a new shopping / dining area, with buses directly into Liverpool running very frequently.

Our choice for dining both nights at New Brighton was Prezzo (3 Marine Parade); we enjoyed their Italian menu so much that we also hunted out their restaurants in York and Cambridge.

Because we only had one day in this city, we took the hop on hop off bus (with live and very humorous commentary) seeing the sights. We also took a ferry trip, and of course they played Ferry 'Cross the Mersey' onboard!

The village of Port Sunlight, is worth a visit; it’s a small village beautifully laid out. This Lever village was built in 1800s by owner of Sunlight soap production factory to house his workers.

I’ll continue next with our time in Yorkshire Dales, Newcastle etc
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Old Sep 17th, 2012, 05:54 AM
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Great start - cant wait to hear more!
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Old Sep 17th, 2012, 09:08 AM
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I'm looking forward to hear about your time in the Dales. We were there last fall and really enjoyed it.
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Old Sep 17th, 2012, 10:02 PM
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Our travels continue:

The Yorkshire Dales were as beautiful to drive through as I had expected, the rolling hills we saw on our first day there were almost completely obliterated by fog on the second day – obviously the weather is very changeable here!

Skipton was absolutely overrun with visitors on the Friday we arrived – a combination of school holidays, Friday of a long weekend, market day and antiques market brought in way too many people for our liking. After a visit to the tourist office, we took their recommendations and set off for the village of
Grassington instead. Here we found a lovely little village – still with plenty of quaint shops and lovely scenery, but without the overwhelming crowds.

Next day we set off for Richmond, at the north east end of the Dales - our next planned single night stop. We ate at As You Like It café on the square - good value meal and welcoming atmosphere. Late afternoon we decided to head towards our accommodation. When we keyed the address into Ms Garmin, we discovered that we had booked to stay not in Richmond, Yorkshire Dales, but another Richmond, suburb of Sheffield – an hour and a half back down the motorway.

I think we’d managed to confuse the two, because when you look at a map each sits at the top right hand corner of a national park, but we’d not checked carefully to make sure that we were looking at the same national park each time . . .lesson learned for the future!!

So Sunday, after retracing our steps to ‘our’ Richmond, and a reviving coffee at the same café as yesterday, we set off for the visitor centre second recommendation – lunch at The Creamery at Hawes. The weather was dismal with rain and fog, so we were very pleased to find ourselves in a very modern centre with full glass viewing windows out to the Dales, and a delicious meal. The Wensleydale cheeses they served were the best – craisin cheese, cheese with caramelised onion swirl and another very firm and crumbly variety. There was also a large tasting area with sales, gift shop and museum on site.

But we were headed to Newcastle for our next slice of family history, so didn’t linger too long.

Newcastle turned out to be a bit of a surprise package. It's a bit like our Australian Newcastle in that it's regenerating from an old mining and industrial city, and has some very exciting areas. An old flour mill beside the Tyne River has been redesigned as a contemporary art gallery. Inside was one of the best installations I've ever come across, by Janet Cardiff, based on The Forty Part Motet by Thomas Tallis.

In a large very high ceilinged space was a circle of 40 sound speakers on stands. Each was facing towards the centre, and visitors sat within the circle to listen. The performance was a piece written in the 1500s, for 40 voices. Each voice had its own separate part, so each speaker broadcasted a single voice. The sound of this music was just so all absorbing and mesmerising - quite magical!

We returned to this BALTIC building in the evening to dine at Six Restaurant. The combination of excellent food, great views and top of the line service made a meal to remember. If you go there, don’t miss the Treacle Tart – manna from heaven!!

In Newcastle DH discovered his second most favourite bridge in the world – the Milennium. It's a footbridge over the River Tyne. If you can imagine a partly opened clamshell, take just the arcs formed by the curved edges of the shell, then string thin wires between each arc. The lower arc is for walking and biking across, the upper arc sits to balance it. At noon each day (or 12:05 on Tuesday's!) the bridge opens - the footway rises, and the balance arc falls, until the cross wires are parallel to the river. Once river traffic has passed through it lowers again.

We had great success tracing DH’s family trail in Newcastle also. First find was the row of stone terraces where his mum and her family lived before coming to Australia. Then we went looking for the church where his grandparents were married, and found it just around the corner. The church itself wasn't open, but there were a number of old gravestones in the grounds, including a large memorial stone belonging to his great grandfather and other family members (including some previously unknown to us). So now more investigations are needed to find out why one son died age 27 in 1917, and why a husband and wife died on the same date.

Travelling down the coast towards Scarborough, Yorkshire Moors heather was in its prime at the end of August this year. We were so pleased to see this wild countryside at its best.

We stopped at Whitby, and came across crowds of school age children and their families catching crabs. It’s a serious pastime – special ‘Crab Buckets’, nets, bait and long lines reaching from the harbour walls down into the water. I didn’t manage to discover what the end destiny for these crabs was – they looked a bit small for eating to me. You can do cruises from the harbour on a variety of vessels, taking you out to sea on a 20 – 30 minute trip.

Being school holidays, the town was seriously crowded and most restaurants and cafes only catered to seafood eaters, so we continued on to Robin Hood’s Bay for lunch.

Robin Hood’s Bay is an extremely steep walk down into the village, with no car access for day visitors. Good lunches at the pub at the top of the hill on the sea cliffs. Picnic area part way down to the village. Plenty of eateries on the way down into the village.

Scarborough was the quaint Victorian seaside town that we had anticipated it to be. Our B&B (Powey’s Lodge) had been newly refurbished, so we had modern accommodation inside a Victorian exterior. Excellent hosts and good breakfast make this an easy place to recommend to others. Once again it proved difficult to find something other than seafood for dinner, but we came across a little café back from the waterfront that suited us nicely (forgot to get the name, though).

Next morning, the famous English weather finally caught up with us! Newcastle was dampish, but this morning the heavens really opened up on us. So much so that we decided not to stop at any little villages en route, and just headed straight to York.

Fortunately we were able to get an early check in, so we dug the winter woollies and waterproofs out from the bottom of our bags, and set forth. Our accommodation was just inside the old city walls, so all was very convenient to get to.

After lunch a circuit of the city on the hop-on-hop-off-bus gave us our bearings, as well as a potted history of the town. By now the rain wasn't as bad, so we could walk around and see the Minster and quaint little Shambles Street. While we were having dinner the sun came out, so we continued walking and exploring.

Next morning we had planned to have morning tea at Betty's, famous for scones, clotted cream etc. Unfortunately we discovered Betty’s tearooms is only good for morning tea if you just want scones; cakes can’t be brought out before 11:30am because of 4 hour out of refrigeration health regulations. We did venture back in the afternoon, but the queues were out the door and along the street, so we missed out on that treat.

That evening we turned up for evensong at the Minster, but unfortunately it turned out to be the one night of the week that the choir had a rest day, so we missed out on hearing the singing. . By planning our visit to coincide with the service, we did manage to get a free look inside, with very few people about

York was a lovely city - more compact than I expected, but very easy to move around. We ended up taking the hop on hop off bus 3 times during our 24 hours, because they offered the one circuit with 3 different commentaries. The first was a multi- lingual recording, the second was given by a local history volunteer, and the last was a recorded 'spooky tales' edition. Each told different aspects of the facts and history, so we really got the full picture.

The Merchant House on Piccadilly was of great interest to visit; as well as the interior, the audio guide gave a potted history of commerce in early York days.

En route from York to Cambridge, we had lunch at Doncaster. The Classic & Contemporary Cake Company (9 Dower House Square, Bawtry) was our reason for this stop. A casual dinner conversation the evening before with a woman who worked here lead to our interest, and we certainly weren’t disappointed! The food was excellent, and Bawtry high street with its stylish shops was a delightful square to stroll around afterwards.

Our last stopping place on this circuit was Cambridge; we both felt a bit flat about this city. Perhaps it was because we were at the end of our travels, but to us it lacked the charm and atmosphere of Oxford. Once again we missed out on evensong as it was the choir's night off at the Kings College - didn't pre-plan those two well at all!

While we really enjoyed the opportunity to trace so much of our family history, we probably wouldn’t attempt this type of touring holiday again. For me, living out of a suitcase, continually hand washing clothes and spending a long time in the car was not my style of travel. I got to the stage of just living in the top layer of clothes rather than re-packing so often. I would prefer at least 4 nights in one place in future.

Thanks to all the fodors experts on this board – your local knowledge helped greatly when we were planning this trip. I hope our experiences provide some ideas for future travellers. Di
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Old Sep 18th, 2012, 02:54 AM
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Lovely report with visits to different places. Glad you enjoyed your trip!
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Old Sep 18th, 2012, 03:07 AM
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Glad you enjoyed yourselves and sorry that the Yorkshire weather was a little changeable!
As far as the family history goes, when a young man dies early between 1914 and 1918 it frequently means a casualty of the first world war, so may be worth exploring military records for more info (apologies if you are already investigating this tack).
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Old Sep 18th, 2012, 02:36 PM
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Thanks, Morgana. I had the same thought; either the war, or perhaps a mining accident - it was such a young age to die that I presume it wasn't from natural causes.

Glad you enjoyed reading, jamikins! Di
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Old Sep 18th, 2012, 06:00 PM
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I really enjoyed your report. You were very fortunate to do some great genealogical research during your trip, especially finding new relatives! Thank you for taking the time to post.
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Old Sep 19th, 2012, 11:49 AM
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You may already know about it but http://www.cwgc.org/
Commonwealth War Graves Commission is a good source of information about people killed in both World Wars
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Old Sep 19th, 2012, 10:39 PM
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Good to hear that you enjoyed reading, lovs2travel, and thanks for that link, MissPrism - I'll check it out! Di
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Old Sep 20th, 2012, 01:04 AM
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That site also includes civilian war dead.
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Old Sep 20th, 2012, 01:07 AM
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Whoops! PPS. It's worth remembering that until fairly recently, men killed in battle were actually buried where they fell. I suppose that there will be a few who died at home of severe wounds and were buried in the UK
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