| wes fowler |
Mar 17th, 1999 06:04 AM |
There have not been many postings to Fodor's regarding Amsterdam. The following is information I provided to a traveler who had contacted me directly. While lengthy, you may find something of interest in its content. <BR> <BR>Take a stroll along the Herrengracht. It's the canal between the Singel and <BR>the Keizersgracht and has the most notable collection of Amsterdam's <BR>impressive canal houses. You'll obviously note the varied and distinctive <BR>gables of the houses, but keep your eyes open, too, for the cartouches on <BR>many of them. There are fascinating details by and over doors and windows <BR>that are too frequently overlooked by sightseers. It will only take a few <BR>minutes walking for your curiosity to be aroused about what the innards of <BR>one of these houses are like. At 605 Herrengracht at the canal's eastern <BR>end near the Amstel is the Willet-Holthuysen museum, a furnished <BR>three-story home dating from the late 17th century. The museum also has a <BR>fine collection of silverware, glass and ceramics. As a bonus, there's a <BR>garden in the French style. If you want to pass up the museum, the garden <BR>is visible from the Amstelstraat, the street on the banks of the Amstel <BR>River. <BR> <BR>Since most of Amsterdam's museums are closed on Monday, you might want to <BR>look into the Van Loon museum, another late 17th century home with a lovely <BR>formal garden, which is only open on Monday. It's at 672-674 <BR>Keizersgracht, the canal just south of Herrengracht. On your way you might <BR>want to stop in at the Six collection. Another house dating from the late <BR>17th century it houses a number of 17th century paintings including a <BR>number of Rembrandts (Six was his patron). For admission, you need a card <BR>of introduction available from the information desk of the Rijksmuseum on <BR>presentation of your passport. <BR> <BR>If an early morning trip to Aalsmeer is out of the question since you <BR>really should be there long before 9AM, look into the Bloemenmarkt, a <BR>retail flower market held on a dozen or so canal boats by the Mint Tower. <BR>The flowers and bulbs come from the tulip fields around Haarlem and from <BR>the Aalsmeer auction house. <BR> <BR>I've got a few more suggestions regarding Amsterdam and environs. I never <BR>thought to ask if you would have access to an auto. Whether you do or not, <BR>distances in the Netherlands are so short that public transportation can <BR>get you most anywhere in quick time. Assuming you don't have a car and you <BR>do plan on an Aalsmeer visit, the No. 172 bus from the Centraal Station <BR>will get you there post haste. (It's only about 8 miles away.) It never <BR>occurred to me either that while you've been to Amsterdam before, this <BR>might be a new experience for your mom and sister, either or both of whom <BR>might be interested in the Rijksmuseum, Van Gogh museum and Anne Frank <BR>house, all of which I'm sure you've considered. If not, consider this a <BR>gentle reminder. <BR> <BR>You mentioned your mom has a farm in Wisconsin where you grew up. To me, <BR>Wisconsin means dairy country, which implies cows and ultimately cheese! <BR>Your mother might enjoy the Friday morning cheese market held in Alkmaar. <BR>It's a half-hour train ride north of Amsterdam. Regarding other towns in <BR>close proximity to Amsterdam, avoid Volendam (too touristy and gimmicky); <BR>do consider Marken and/or Haarlem. Up until 40 years or so ago, Marken was <BR>a rather remote island in the Zuider Zee, thus not overly impacted by <BR>tourism. It's now connected to the mainland but still retains a great deal <BR>of the charm and quiet of its former times. Many of these towns are <BR>particularly interesting because of the dramatic changes they had to <BR>undergo when the Zuider Zee was drained and they had to change from fishing <BR>villages with large fleets of vessels to other industries. Marken's <BR>populace, about 2,000 staunch Calvinists, can still be seen wearing <BR>traditional costumes and living in houses painted green and white with red <BR>shutters (the same color scheme as the boats in the harbor). Marken is <BR>about 12 miles north of Amsterdam and accessible by Bus No 11 from <BR>Amsterdam's Centraal Station. <BR> <BR>Haarlem, under 15 minutes by train from Amsterdam, has two unique <BR>offerings, the Franz Hals museum and St. Bavo's church. The Hals museum <BR>used to be an old folks home and dates to the early 1600s. It's got a <BR>number of Hals' portraits and group paintings and some lovely rooms. St. <BR>Bavo is noted for a couple of things: a magnificent, immense organ upon <BR>which Mozart, Haydn and Saint-Saens played at one time or another and a <BR>covey of shops dating from the Middle Ages that are built into the church's <BR>exterior walls. <BR> <BR>Final recommendation for a spot outside of Amsterdam and that's the <BR>Kroller-Muller museum and sculpture park in the Hogue Veluwe National Park. <BR> There are over 200 Van Gogh's on display as well as Seurat, Picasso and <BR>Braque. In the sculpture garden there are works by Rodin, Henry Moore, <BR>Giacommetti and Barbara Hepworth among others. If your sister isn't into <BR>museums, she can hop on a white bicycle and pedal all over the park. Bikes <BR>are free; at least the white ones in the park are. It's about an hour and <BR>fifteen minutes from Amsterdam to Arnhem where you can pick up a bus for <BR>the short ride to the museum. <BR> <BR>Theatre, tea and gardens - theatre, tea and gardens, what to do? Well, <BR>now, the Netherlands Theatre Institute housed in a flamboyant early 17th <BR>century mansion at 168 Herrengracht, Amsterdam has a spectacular staircase, lavish stucco work, murals and ceiling paintings and an interesting history of <BR>Dutch theatre from the 17th century to the present, including working <BR>models of backstage areas and a fine costume collection. AND - a garden <BR>where tea is served! <BR> <BR>One final thought on tea. Geels en Co, 67 Warmoesstraat, has a tea and <BR>coffee shop in conjunction with a museum of the history of tea and coffee <BR>making. <BR> <BR>Regarding pubs and pub foods, Amsterdam offers "brown" cafes that are the <BR>Dutch counterpart of Britain's gathering places. What Britain doesn't have <BR>in the quantity that Amsterdam does, are Indonesian restaurants. Try the <BR>rijstaffel in one, but be prepared to down great quantities of beer to <BR>quell the heat of the spices used in each of the fifteen or eighteen dishes <BR>you'll be served. <BR> <BR>
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