Wednesday December 9

Our last day in Paris, sigh. We had breakfast at the hotel then set out for the islands in the Seine for what would turn out to be a day focused on medieval history. Bunny’s stomach was improving and my cold seemed to be staying in my head and not moving to the chest—a good sign.

We walked to the taxi stand near the Musee d’Orsay. I asked the driver to go to the Sainte Chapelle but he didn’t seem to understand so I tried Notre Dame. When we got close to ND he gave us the option for Sainte Chapelle but we stuck to ND. There was no line to get in—tourism certainly seems down in Paris. We spent a leisurely time touring the cathedral. I was able to take quite a few photos and we could sit quietly in some of the chapels and just enjoy the cathedral.

After the visit we stopped for a cup of tea then walked to Sainte Chapelle. Security here takes longer as the chapel is located within the Palais de Justice and the process is more like getting on an airline. They took us from the line in small groups. A woman with two small children was not allowed in. A man in front of Bunny was found to have a knife in his backpack and was given the choice to take his backpack and leave or have his knife confiscated. What??!! We did not get to stick around and find out what he chose but moved into the courtyard toward the entrance. There was no line at the ticket windows.

As we entered the ground floor we saw the gift counter and some small beaded Christmas tree ornaments—jackpot! We would shop on our way out. Climbing the spiral stone staircase led us to the sunlight on the jeweled glass of the chapel. It is simply stunning. It wasn’t crowded and we could take time to sit and stare at the beautiful glass, the tracery and the painted decoration.

We strolled through the Ile de la Cite on our way to the Ile St. Louis for lunch. We passed a little cupcake shop and an old brick house that looked like it could have housed Madeline and her classmates. On the Ile St. Louis, I let Bunny choose what would suit her stomach for lunch. After reading the menus at a few places Au Lys d’Argent appealed to her. I only told her after she selected it that it was a family favorite and it turned out to be as good as I remembered. I had vegetable soup and a galette with tomato and cheese. Bunny was feeling pretty good and shared the chocolate cake that came with my three course lunch.

After lunch we walked the Ile St. Louis and looked in some shops. Bunny bought a bag for all her purchases and I bought a tin of cookies for Mr. Wonderful from his favorite shop—La Cure Gourmande. We stopped in a couple of the hotels on the island for information as Bunny would like to stay there on a future visit. During lunch I had mentioned the Musee de Cluny as an option for our afternoon and Bunny was interested. We walked from the Ile St. Louis to the area around St. Michel following signs and landmarks on the map including Shakespeare and Co and the Tea Caddy. We found the museum, but the hotel de Cluny was being refurbished outside so Bunny didn’t get to see the building in all its glory.

After we went in we walked through the gift shop to discover many bunny items based on the Lady and the Unicorn tapestries. There were pillows, wall hangings and Christmas ornaments but on to the museum, shopping would wait until we were on the way out. It was interesting to see the Roman baths and many sculptures from medieval buildings. We could also see glass fragments from Sainte Chapelle and other buildings, jewelry, faience and other detailed work.

After leaving the museum we walked back to the Tea Caddy for scones, toast and tea. Sadly the scones were not as good as they were a few years ago. This ended up being our dinner as it was late in the afternoon and with my cold coming on I really didn’t feel like much. We had planned to take a Seine cruise on our last night but neither of us felt that great and we decided to go back to the hotel and pack. We started walking but really wanted a taxi. Bunny asked a couple of soldiers and one of them directed us to a taxi stand.

Back at the Hotel de Varenne we ordered a taxi for the morning and packed. I love Paris and we had such a short time here but I was ready to go home to Mr. Wonderful tomorrow.

Glad to see the bombs didn't put you off going to Paris. I hope we never get to railway stations having security checks, so uncivilised.

<<A man in front of Bunny was found to have a knife in his backpack and was given the choice to take his backpack and leave or have his knife confiscated. >>

I think they have to be strict because of the courts being in the same building complex. if anyone turns up with a knife at any of the courts where I practice, they are given the same choice.

Thanks for your report, Scootoir; I really enjoyed it. We'd love to do a river cruise someday. Glad you enjoyed your trip!

Thursday December 10

Our last morning in Paris; we were up and ready to go by the time breakfast was served downstairs. Soon we were in the cab on our way to the airport. We had a nice drive down the Champs Elysees to the Peripherique on our way to de Gaulle airport. Traffic wasn’t bad and we got through airport security efficiently and waited at our gate.

When we boarded and got to our seats we found we had seats in the bulkhead. I maybe be one of the few people who does not like these seats but Bunny, who is much taller than me, was happy with them. I want a tray table that comes down from the seat back in front of me and the screen ahead of me rather than pull it up from beside my seat. I want the pocket for my book and water bottle. I want to put my purse under the seat in front of me; I want, I want . . . I may have trusted in the travel agent too much and didn't check on a few details like this.

We struck up a conversation with the young flight attendant who took her seat facing me for take-off. We chatted a bit about Southern California and things to do there. She was working in business class in front of us and after serving those folks champagne brought a glass to each of us. Champagne was a lovely way to say goodbye to Paris and remember our Christmas market cruise.

I would like to take another river cruise with Mr. Wonderful and will be looking into other cruise lines. AmaWaterways did so many things right that if they had better mattresses I would book with them again.

She was working in business class in front of us and after serving those folks champagne brought a glass to each of us.>>

a lovely way to end a lovely trip report, Scootoir. you have certainly made me think again about doing that sort of cruise with my mum, but with a different company - I don't think that we could stand those mattresses either!

Thank you so much for your in depth report. You really put out details that will help anyone going on a river cruise. Positives & negatives, Fodorites are good at giving the ins & outs of their experience

I'm thinking about a river cruise and AMA was toward the top of my list---just moved way down because of the mattresses. Viking went way down because of negative reviews. Avalon has been highly recommended Much more research to do.

Ahhhh, Paris! IMO, to start or end a European trip in Paris is a real bonus. We've never stayed in the area that you chose. It sounded interesting, maybe next time.

Any photos?

We had veey good mattresses on our AMAWaterways cruise on the Mekong so hopefully they'll bring their European ship mattresses up to a better standard.

We have been on two AMAWaterways cruises, one on the Danube and the other on the Rhone. We did not experience any problem with the mattress. Everyone has their own preferences though. We love AmaWaterways. They certainly met out expectations.

We are taking this cruise in reverse (Amsterdam to Basel) this December, so I am reading your trip report with great interest. Thanks for posting.

I'll work on posting some photos TPAYT. I have them on Shutterfly for family but their share sites allow downloading and printing.

TPAYT, it has taken far too long for me to put this together but finally a link to photos from the river cruise. https://www.flickr.com/photos/206929...20345753/page2

Unfortunately I had issues getting them in the correct order so they are mostly in reverse order with some random placements of some photos.

Lovely pics, Scootoir. is the lady bundled up on blankets on the boat deck you?

I now find myself more interested in the cruising part of your trip than I was before as i am now unexpectedly going on a river cruise on the Rhone in May [so hopefully no blankets needed!]. It's a 7 day cruise from Lyon to Avignon on the MS Swiss Corona; it's all been organised by a friend who was originally going with her husband but he is unable to travel due to illness so she so kindly thought of me!!

Perhaps I need to go and look on the cruising forum for any tips on river cruising!

Beautiful photos, Scootoir. Thanks for posting them. You lucked out with the weather.

Thank you for the kind thoughts on the photos. Annhig I am the grey lady (grey hair and jacket) on the Ile St. Louis in front of the little creperie Au Lys d'Argent. Your river cruise to the south of France sounds lovely. I have warned Mr. Wonderful that I might like to do that itinerary one day. I'll be looking for your report.

We did luck out on the weather. In the picture in Paris I am carrying my big warm, waterproof coat. I could have used something lighter weight but we had no idea as we were planning from California in the fall. I read someone else's Christmas market cruise review and they had sleet and other nasty days so we went prepared. I also bought shoes for ice and snow but didn't need those either.

always better to have your warmer coat and suitable shoes with you for that time of year, Scootoir.

I will certainly report back on the Rhone cruise.

Lovely report and gorgeous pictures. We've been intrigued by the adverts for Viking cruises (but they're so expensive) and never thought about a Christmas Markets river cruise but it sounds great.

Thank you Nola77382. Most the river cruise companies seem to run promotions with discounted fares or include airfare. I plan to watch for them in future and see if I can snag a bargain. One good thing is that the pricing includes all meals and wine with lunch and dinner. Other alcohol is additional but I am not much of a drinker so didn't have a big bill on board.

This was my first cruise and my second trip to the Christmas markets (the first was 30 years ago). I would do both again. I have been looking at Viking's Cities of Light cruise for a few years . . .