Amalfi/Positano in winter?
 

I've just found this forum tonight, and have already gained some great tips for my 4 week trip to Europe in December/January. Especially regarding "packing light". It's almost a science!

This is our (self-organised) itinerary:

Depart Sydney 26.12.06 - Return Syd. 25.1.06.

Paris 6 nights
Berne,Switzerland 1 night
Venice, Florence and Rome - all 7 nights each.
Travelling by train between each destination.

My friend and I have already booked our accommodation - all apartments, except for Berne, where we will be staying in the Fassbind Hotel right across from the main train station for convenience, as we will be in transit. Anyone stayed in the Fassbind, Berne before??? If so, I'd be interested in what your experience of it was.

However, I'd really like to know if anyone here thinks it'd be worth the time and effort to visit Amalfi/Positano on a day excursion basis. I'll be in Rome for 7 nights, and must go down to see the ruins at Pompeii - I'm in 2 minds about extending it to Amalfi/Positano. I've been told that it can still be nice down there in winter - what do you think?

My situation is this:
I'm travelling to Europe with a friend, and she has already done Pompeii and the Amalfi coast before, so I'll be going alone for the day (returning to Rome the same day/night). What about training it alone? Or would you suggest an organised bus trip? I've checked a few out already, and they're a bit expensive for my budget. I don't really want to spend more than around 80 euros.
The thing is, I must return to Rome the same day because the accommodation has been payed for, but most important - my friend will be a bit frightened staying all alone overnight in a strange city (we are staying in an apartment which looks over Trevi Fountain).


I do have some more questions relating to public transport/toursit attractions on public holidays etc, but I'll leave those for later posts. I don't want to outwear my welcome on my first night.

Thanks in advance for any words of wisdom from all you seasoned travellers.
timetofly.

You can't realistically do Pompei and Amalfi/Positano as a day trip from Rome. The distance is just too great - and you would have no time to visit Pompeii (where IMHO you need to spend at least 3/4 hours to really see much of anything.)

Second - there is no train service on the Amalfi coast. The train (local) goes only as far as Sorrento. After that you would have to use either boat (many of which don;t run in winter at all - and if the weather is bad none will be running) or local bus.

Given the travel logistics, how early it gets dark that time of year (what are you going to see in these small towns in the dark?), the rather small possibility of pleasant weather and the fact that many things will be closed off season it just doesn;t make sense.

If you really want to do this - and run into a stretch of unusually warm weather - I would reco doing it as an overnight trip - seeing Pompeii and then staying the night in Sorrento. You could then get an erly start by bus along the coast, see a couple of towns, and make it back to Rome by late that evening.

Hi time,

I wouldn't bother with the AC in December.

Check www.enjoyrome.com for their bus trip to Pompeii. I don't think that they drag you to souvenier shops like many of the other tours do.

((I))

Haven't stayed at the Fassbind in Bern, but I can tell you the area immediately around the train station is popular with the seedier types. (Surprise.) Bern is very compact. If you can find something even a short distance away from the station, I think you (and your traveling companion) will be happier.

Hi Jean
Thanks for your advice, but could you please expand on what you mean by "seedier types"? Are we talking about legitimate sociopaths? If not, I think we could handle most other "types", as we work with alcoholics and heroin addicts every day - just normal people really.

We'll be exploring Berne for most of the day, and only in the hotel late at night to sleep, so I hope this won't be an "issue".

Thanks,
timetofly

re the part of your question on the Amalfi Coast: with all respect to ira, who I know is considered quite an expert on this forum, I disagree about "bothering with" the Amalfi Coast in winter.

I've acually been there in December and January and love that time of year for the fact that there are far fewer tourists, and for the wonderful and elaborate Christmas cribs (creche scenes filled with elaborate handcarved figures) which will be on display and covered with both in Sorrento and other places, including by the side of the road between towns on the Amalfi Coast.

I've been there in December and January and love that time of year for the fact that there are far fewer tourists, and the mood is completely different. I think it's worth it to extend your experience to include the Amalfi Coast.

But you won't be able to accomplish this as a one-day excursion very easily unless you go with an organized tour.
If you go on your own, then I think that it's much better as an overnight trip, staying in Sorrento, so you can see both Pompeii and the coast.

Perhaps your friend will be alright staying overnight in Rome for the one night. (Since she's been to Italy before) I've been in Rome in my own several times without any problem at all. The evening streetscene in Rome is very alive, and there will be the Christmas markets that she can enjoy.

SOrry for the "Doupble paragraph, forgot to edit!
Enjoy your trip!

Hi bella,

Thanks for the correction.

I should have said have been more clear about not trying to do it in one day.

((I))

Thanks nytraveller, bellstar, and ira for your insights.

Nytraveller - I had a sneaking suscpicion I was probably being too optimistic to think I could do all that in one day. I just needed someone with the experience to confirm it. So thanks. I'll stick with Pompeii for a stress-free day.


Ira - Thanks for your lead. I checked out enjoyrome.com, but unfortunately the shuttle service only runs between April and October (I'll be there in January). However, I should get some good leads from that idea.

bellastar - I value your advice, and it makes good sense, but I really don't want the added expense of another overnight stay. In all honesty I think it would be better to go in warmer weather, when the Blue Grotto is open. Perhaps on my next trip to Europe.

Thanks to everyone,
timetofly

Pleased to help, time.

Have a great trip, timetofly!

No correction ira, in fact, most folks I think would agree with you, which makes for a very uncrowded AC in December/Jan!
As usual, I'm off the beaten path! :)

Timtofly: You'll be fine at the Fassbinder in Bern. I like to warn people about the station area, just so they aren't shocked. Exercise the usual cautions.

As far as exploring Bern, if you have any interest in political science, governmental structure and/or Swiss history, try to tour the Swiss Parliament. Although the tour is free, it requires a reservation (and not all tours include English translation) which our hotel made for us with notice of only a day or two. If I recall correctly, you must have your passport with you. Security is tight.

Another free option that we enjoyed very much was the Rose Garden. Walk to the end of the main road to where the Bern Bears are, cross the river and walk up a fairly steep path (not recommended in icy conditions)to the top of the hill. Excellent views of Bern's old town. There's a tea house that I think is open year-round. Also, in the building adjacent to the Bear enclosure is a very good microbrewery.

There is a new Klee Museum that just open in the last couple of weeks. We enjoyed the collection very much when we saw it at the old museum. The previous exhibit also included several Giacomettis, but I don't know if they made the move to the new Klee.

It's Enstein Year in Bern. I forget whether it's his 100th birthday or the anniversary of his Theory of Relativity. There are several events planned.

Take the tour of the Clock Tower. Not only is it fascinating to see the mechanisms, but the views of the old town are very good. Reservations are usually required, but I would think in December/January you could just show up at one of the tour times. Check with visitor's info center.