Amalfi Coast Trip Report
 

Thanks to all for great advice to help plan this trip. For some context, my demo is female/late 30s/traveling w/husband, just looking to enjoy local culture/flavor/views.

Sept.22 (Sat.)
Depart ROME, Destination PRAIANO
A very nice man in a travel agency by Hotel Pincio (great location in Rome) helped us buy our Rome-Salerno train tickets since I couldn't seem to get them online. He was very impressed that I knew to ask about discounted fares (thanks fodors forums). I chose to go Rome-Salerno train then Salerno-Positano ferry b/c the Naples ferries were pretty infrequent and it sounded like Salerno was an easier place to get around. All true. Easy walk with luggage from Salerno train station to ferry. Purchased a few beverages/sandwiches to enjoy on ferry. The beautiful 70 minute voyage was the perfect introduction to Amalfi Coast. Once in Positano we rushed up the first set of stairs we saw and ended up very disoriented. We paid 30 Euro for a cab to get us the last 8km. grrrrreat. But all ended well as we opened the shutters to our truly breathtaking view from our terrace at Hotel Le Sirene, Praiano. Ira, I'm surprised you even share this diamond. Simple, comfortable, quiet - just what we were looking for. Highly recommend dinner at Ulivo, via G. Capriglione 178, Praiano.

Sun. Sept.22
Favorite Day. Planned to bus it to Ravello but missed bus. Ended up renting chairs and kayaks outside Ristorante La Gavitela, Praiano. First time we stopped running in 3 days. Highly recommend dinner at La Brace (can't find receipt for address, but on main street in Praino).

Mon. Sept. 23
Day trip to Capri and transfer to Hotel Punta Regina in Positano. I will not be compelled to return to Capri, but the comments that recommend staying overnight to truly appreciate it are probably on the mark. I feel the same way about Positano. After the tranquility of Praiano, I found Positano a bit too busy and touristy, but once night fell, it was just enchanting. Another great dinner: Buca di Bacco (the top part -"Ristorante").

Hotel Punta Regina has all requisite comforts of a high-end hotel - but my heart is with the simplicity, location and views of Le Sirene in Praiano.

Tues. Sept. 24
Rain in Positano. Still lovely to sit outside under awning of beachside restaurants and people watch. Also, forced to rest. Thank goodness we walked all those stairs - yet another great dinner at Caffe Positano. I am a real foodie, and was so pleased and surprised that the food, service and atomosphere at virtually all these restaurants were beyond expectations - and pretty reasonably priced.

Wed. Sept. 25
Depart Positano for Rome
Reluctantly leave Amalfi Coast. Luckily, prediction that ferries would not run due to poor weather did not hold true.

Next time - direct to Praiano to stay at Le Sirene or rent a villa for a week, with the kids. Loved the late night soccer matches taking place in front of the church in Praiano.

Thanks again. I have tons of pics but honestly feel like it's a spoiler to show them. The surprise and glee I felt when Jean-Karma opened the big French shutters of our room at Le Sirene to reveal THE view of Positano was priceless.

K

Nice report! I am considering staying at Le Sirene for our trip next September since it gets such rave reviews. What room did you stay in?

I would love to see your pictures, but I understand what you mean about a "spoiler"!

Did you have any problems using the bus to access the other towns? I've read reports that the buses can be very crowded and the thought of piling onto a bus is not appealing to me.

v

bookmark

Hi Sher,

We were in Praiano first week of Oct.

Buses were usually nearly full to standing room only, but not jam packed.

((I))

Sher,
We stayed in Room 9 at Le Sirene.

The only bus we used was the Interno Positano bus that goes up and down Positano - and that was no problem. As Ira said, busy, but manageable.

I have yet to find out an easy way to post pictures. Any suggestions? The pictures are in Kodak Easyshare right now. What is the best way to make a link to a slideshow?

Thanks.
K

Thanks for the trip report, keepswimming! Le Sirene and La Brace are truly "diamonds"!