Amalfi Coast - those in favour.....
 

As a reasonably frequent visitor to Italy, the area south of Naples (and the city itself) has escaped my attentions up to now. Previous trips have included Rome, Venice, (almost) all the Northern Lakes, Milan, Tuscany, Cinque Terre and Sicily, including the Aeolian Islands.
Why have I never been tempted to visit what would appear to be the most photogenic corner of Italy?
On the pro side, I have an extinct volcano, an extinct Roman city and sea views to die for.
On the other side, a city that has problems with garbage, a road system only suited to those bearing a death wish, picturesque but claustrophobic towns wedged between mountains and sea, an island prone to daily invasion with tourist hordes, starry eyed honeymooners with hotel prices to match, restaurants catering solely to the tourist market with nothing on the menu reflecting what might pass as local cuisine......

Lovers of the Amalfi Coast, please disabuse me of my preconceptions!

Amalfi coast is NOT the same as Naples. I think there are a couple of great things to do in Naples if you choose - but you can base yourself in Sorrento and easily see the whole area without going near Naples if you want.

>>>a road system only suited to those bearing a death wish, picturesque but claustrophobic towns wedged between mountains and sea, an island prone to daily invasion with tourist hordes, starry eyed honeymooners with hotel prices to match, restaurants catering solely to the tourist market with nothing on the menu reflecting what might pass as local cuisine..<<<

That could also describe much of the lake areas and CT yet you visited those places. It seems like you've made up your mind not to like the area so I think you should go elsewhere. No point in going somewhere you are determined not to like.

While Naples and the Amalfi Coast aren't my very favorite places in Italy, I tend to disagree with most of your cons. Naples isn't full of garbage except if there is a strike. In fact, most of your cons are stereotypes. By all means, go. Try to avoid July and August (maybe late May or late September).

Venice (almost)?

Of course you must go---just skip Naples if you want.

Here are a few reasons why:
http://www.slowphotos.com/photo/show...y.php?cat=4481

I loved the AC, and I hate crowds.

Tips: I went in early spring. The weather was fine - I had no interest in swimming or sunning - and it wasn't very crowded.

I spent the night (actually three nights) on Capri instead of day tripping. It was much quieter after the day visitors left, plus I had time to hike away from shoppers. (I stayed at La Tosca, not too expensive.)

I stayed in Sorrento, since it was a good base for all the places I wanted to visit, but if I went back I would stay actually ON the AC.

The scenery is just as good as you've heard, and the Roman ruins are just as impressive ( although I preferred Herculaneum to Pompeii).

Napels is not that scary.

Click on my name for my S. Italy TR.

kybourbon - hey, I'm not determined not to like the place; that's the whole purpose of my post.
I just want to be seduced......

I was not enthusiastic to go to the Amalfi Coast but my husband was, so off we went. I ended up really enjoying it and would like to return, partly because we did not explore nearby sites like Naples (about which people I trust have said good things) and Paestum in the five days we were there.

It is possible to have a wonderful trip without the perceived drawbacks. We went in April, when the weather was beautiful for walking and sightseeing. We stayed in Atrani, a smaller town with an easy walk into Amalfi town. (There are other smaller towns along the coast, too, that will get you away from the crowds.)

We did some lovely hikes that allowed you to explore other areas of the coast while walking through lemon groves and alongside walls draped in wisteria. We came across smaller towns with equally stunning views of the water.

We left the driving to the bus drivers and enjoyed being able to see the coast without the hassle of having our own car there.

The duomos in Amalfi and Ravello deserve a visitor's attention.

Wonderful seafood.

>>>restaurants catering solely to the tourist market with nothing on the menu reflecting what might pass as local cuisine<<<

Cannot confirm this statement. At Luna Convento right in Amalfi town, the restaurant served wonderful local specialties, most of them made with the famous Amalfi lemon. One of the most memorable dishes was fish wrapped in lemon leaf and grilled. Also, I found the prices of Luna Convento fair.

In April and May, when I visited the Amalfi Coast several times, it was never crowded.

We thoroughly enjoyed our stays there.

Although the rental car company gave me a 9-seater truck (instead of a minivan, which I had ordered) I extremely enjoyed driving the coastal road. Next time I will rent a scooter!

>>a city that has problems with garbage,<<
If that's what you notice first about Naples, I would have to say you're determined to avoid it, and I wouldn't attempt to change your mind.

>>a road system only suited to those bearing a death wish,<<
Driving is optional, you know.

>> picturesque but claustrophobic towns wedged between mountains and sea,<<
Delete the word "claustrophobic" from that sentence, and that's all you need to know about why to visit? Claustrophobic? You're trying way too hard to be cute. (And see next comment.)

>>an island prone to daily invasion with tourist hordes,<<
But you're OK with Venice?

>>starry eyed honeymooners with hotel prices to match<<
I'm still trying to figure out how a price matches a honeymooner.

>>restaurants catering solely to the tourist market with nothing on the menu reflecting what might pass as local cuisine<<
So, what do they serve? Buffalo burgers? Fish and chips?

Wow, maybe we need to check again on the Oxford Dictionary meaning of the word "preconception".
To be clear, I have never been to the area so I am therefore not directing any personal criticism towards the Amalfi Coast. Apologies if my research has caused offence.

On the pro side, you missed the many treasures of Naples... Like the archeology museum, Cappella Sansevero, Chiesa Gesu Nuovo, the underground excavations (Sotterranea, San Lorenzo Maggiore), Museo Capodimonte, Palazzo Reale, the centro storico neighborhoods, etc. And the nearby royal palace at Caserta.

BTW, there are three extinct cities... Pompeii, Herculaneum and Paestum.

Time for more (and better) research on your part.

I experienced the things you and others list as pros and almost none of the negatives. As Jean says, time for more and better research!

SeeDee, thanks for posting this. Like you, we also have avoided the AC after multiple trips to Northern Italy and wonder if we should give it a try. It looks like the answer is yes from all these posts.
As far as honeymoon prices..one time our hotel bill in Paris was higher than the rate we had booked. They corrected it and lowered the price when they found out we weren't honeymooners, we had been charged a "Honeymoon rate" so I think the comment above has merit.

If you'd like to leave my favorite place on earth to me, that's fine, but you'd be missing some of the most spectacular food and scenery in the world.

Yes, go in the late spring to avoid the hordes of tourists. But if like us, you must visit in the summer, choose hotels that have excellent AC and soundproofing.

Get an early start to your day, and take a long lunch and/or afternoon siesta at your hotel, particularly if like the one we love ( Hotel Poseidon) it has unending views of sea and town from many of the rooms and restaurant terrace.

As for restaurants along the coast, there's plenty of excellent local food, reasonably priced. You just have to peruse these boards and get the names. Some of the places we love in/around Positano: LO GUARACINO, IL CONVENTO SARCENO D'ORO, and in Montepertuso, LA TAGLIATELLA.

Now about Naples: Sure, there's some garbage in the streets as you approach, but why focus on that, when a city with probably the best archaeological museum in the world plus zillions of incredible churches, etc. awaits?? And again, the food.... But if you're not going, why bore you with the details?

Just wanted to add that one of my all-time favorite days this summer, was a trip to a restaurant in Nerano ( about 20 min from Positano) by water taxi. Very local food, very reasonable, and we were the only Americans there. Great day!

Thanks to all who took the time to respond - and, yes, I have learned my lesson not to be provocative when posting a question. I thought it was only a myth that Americans don't "do" irony.
So, with the Amalfi Coast in my sights for a visit, perhaps somebody might offer some advice on a few particular subjects.

1. Transferring to a resort from Naples Airport. Is a pre-booked taxi the only way to go or are there any destinations accessible in comfort using public transport?

2. Where to stay? There seems to be no consensus re the relative merits of Sorrento, Positano and Amalfi. The best hub for public transport would be a big consideration as I would wholeheartedly reject the self-drive option, given that high summer will be our only travel window.

3. Ferries, how frequent are weather related cancellations during the summer months? And are the local buses prone to being very crowded during daytime?

4. Walking. Should I forget about the Sentieri degli Dei with a companion who has developed a problem with paths that do not have a guard rail at steep drop aways? There seems to be a choice of walks from Pontone/Ravello down to Amalfi; would there be any problem with these?

5. Paestum seems a little off the main popular strip but sounds interesting; is the town of Salerno of particular interest to make combining both places a worthwhile full day trip?

My present thinking leans towards transferring directly on arrival at Naples to Capri for one, possibly two nights. Then moving to a town served by ferry, thinking Amalfi at the moment, for the rest of the holiday.

"My present thinking leans towards transferring directly on arrival at Naples to Capri for one, possibly two nights. Then moving to a town served by ferry, thinking Amalfi at the moment, for the rest of the holiday."

That's what I did. Bus to the port, then ferry. However, I stayed in Sorrento because it is the best hub for accessing other places on the AC.

A few answers:

1. Private driver is really the best. To do public transportation usually involves at least a bus and a train, which is not appealing after a long flight. My driver last year charged 100 euro to drive me from NAP to Positano (my preferred destination on the AC).

2. I always tell people if you want to see the Amalfi Coast, then you should stay on the Amalfi Coast - Sorrento is near, but not on, the AC. Personally, I adore Positano and feel it is the most picturesque of all the villages on the AC. There are plenty of alleys and stairs to take you away from the crowds. It also has good transportation options.

3. During my 3 trips to Pos (2 of which were in June and 1 in September), there has never been a ferry cancellation. I am not saying it can't happen, I just think it is rare during the summer months. But it all depends on the weather. The buses will be packed to the gills in the summer - and so I only travel by ferry, boat or taxi when I visit.

4. IMO the Walk of the Gods would be very difficult for someone with that issue. The walk from Ravello to Atrani would be much better.

5. Salerno has a nice historical center and a lovely promenade along the beach, and since you have to catch the train or bus to Paestum from there, it makes sense to combine the 2. I have been to Paestum twice and would go again in a heartbeat (and might when I return in June).

Starting in Capri is a great idea. You could then transfer via ferry to either Positano or Amalfi via ferry from Capri.

I'm a great fan of Salerno. In addition to it's lovely lungomare and interesting old town, it's cathedral has some very special features and the nearby diocesan museum has some exquisite carved ivory panels. If you go, be sure to pay attention to the time -- the cathedral and museum both close for a long siesta.