Amalfi Coast itinerary & logistics
 

This is our second trip to Italy. First time we did the classic Rome, Florence & Venice route & loved it. This time DH and I will be flying into Rome and spending 3 nights there at the end of June while he attends a conference. We have decided to go south to the Naple/Amalfi Coast area after that. We have 9 days to vacation and then fly out of Naples.

Originally, I thought we'd spend the time like this.
an extra night in Rome & maybe do a day trip to Tivoli or Frascati.
5 nights in Sorrento, using it as base for day trips to Pompeii, Naples, Amalfi and Positano.
2 nights in Capri
1 night Naples to make it easier to get to airport

Now, DH says he's like to stay at least a couple nights in a medieval town & skip the extra night in Rome. I admit, Amalfi looks like it has more character than Sorrento, but I'm wondering if the logistics will be more complicated. I've come up with the following tentative itinerary
2 or 3 nights Amalfi
2 nights Capri
4 or 5 nights Sorrento

My questions
Any comments on the 2 itineraries? Do they seem reasonable, or should we eliminate either Capri or Amalfi?
We don't plan to rent a car, so what's the best way to get from Rome to Amalfi? How long does it take?
For the second itinerary, do you recommend the extra night in Amalfi or Sorrento?

Info about us-we are in our 50's and in good health. We enjoy scenery, ruins, good food (I am going to take a cooking lesson one of the days DH is at his convention) and beaches. Not really into art museums. Want a mix of relaxation time & doing stuff.

Thanks in advance for your help and advice.

Orvieto is only an hour (by train) north of Rome if he wants a couple of nights in a hill town.

From Rome (or after your hilltown), I would go directly to Capri for your two nights and then on to somewhere on the Amalfi coast (perhaps even Amalfi). Spend your last few nights in Sorrento (you can daytrip to Naples and Pompeii easily). Instead of spending the last night in Naples, I would stay in Sorrento and take the shuttle bus from Sorrento to Naples airport (if the times work for you flight). After clicking for English on their website, don't click shuttle (that is not the airport one). Click the airport connection on the right side.
http://www.curreriviaggi.it/

Amalfi is a nice town, with a nice passagiata in the evening, shops, an interesting church, and certainly the experience of a vertical town set against the hills.

We liked Luna Convento, which has ties to St. Francis and his order. It's a short, pleasant walk up the Amalfi Coast road from town. The views from the rooms are remarkably gorgeous; the restaurant was excellent for dinner.

Some people like Positano and Sorrento; others prefer Ravello in the hills above the coast with again some spectacular views, though set back a ways. Was there a reason you weren't interested in Positano? I don't know the town but others may offer commentary.

I think were I planning the trip I'd try Amalfi for a few days, then Capri for 2 nights, then Positano or Sorrento, then take ky's advice and if time allows, stay in Sorrento that last night before airport.

We did an easy day trip to Pompeii from Amalfi, but then the DH was ok about driving Amalfi Coast road. I'm sure you could get an arranged day tour to Pompeii or a driver. There's also a train that goes to Pompeii (from Naples I believe) but get specific directions for correct train.

Anyway those who've been there more may have better ideas.

I also like the suggestion of Orvieto for a hill town near Rome, but that is north of course (I'm going to Orvieto in June!).

Whatever you do I hope you have a great time.

hi there, i did something similar last september. please check out my post here. http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...o-sorrento.cfm
are you considering positano as well?

Hi Jeri - Capri, Amalfi and Sorrento looks good to me.

I'd second Ky's suggestion.
2 nights in Capri is good. Then on to Amalfi (- afternoon ferry/hydrofoil) - and finally Sorrento.

Personally I'd spend 4 nights in Amalfi and 3 nights in Sorrento.

Amalfi is convenient for Ravello, Paestum, the 'Path of the Gods' etc.
Sorrento makes it easy for Pompeii/Vesuvius/Ercolano, Naples ... or Ischia

I too would spend the last night in Sorrento - no need to transfer to naples for one night.

Steve

Amalfi is wonderful!

I wrote about our 5 nights there last spring here:

http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...and-naples.cfm

I would rent an apartment in Sorrento and do day trips. If I decided I wanted to stay in Capri, or Positano, or wherever for the night, then I get a room.

This past winter, we took the train from Rome to Salerno and then the SITA bus to Amalfi for 3 nights. Then, we took the SITA bus to Sorrento for 5 nights. From Sorrento, we did day trips to Capri, Pompeii, Naples, Herculaneum & Oplontis. We used all public transportation--SITA bus, ferry, Circumvesuviana. If we had been traveling in the spring or summer, we would have taken ferries between towns rather than buses (at least from Salerno - Amalfi - Sorrento - Naples).

If we had to do it again, I would have rented an apartment in Sorrento.

I dont care for the town of Sorrento at all.
I have gave it 2 shots. Its not for me.
Too many Vespas with no regard for anyone.
Peaceful it is NOT.

Positano would be a great base to take day trips from.
The whole of the Amalfi is stunningly beautiful.
You really cant go wrong.

I agree with Steve_James and like the idea of spending nights in Capri, Sorrento and Amalfi.

I too recommend visiting Ravello. It is a lovely, small town with stunning views of the Golfo di Napoli. I would definitely visit Villa Cimbrone and Villa Rufolo (Villa Cimbrone is actually a hotel); they both have beautiful gardens and amazing views. I had lunch at a good, informal restaurant named Cumpa Cosimo.

Given your plans, I would leave Orvieto for another trip. Although it is a gorgeous town with a fantastic duomo, it is in Umbria, north of Rome.

does anyone know if you can take a ferry from sorrento to positano in July

yea, there should be ferries from sorrento to positano in july.

Hi RomaT - There is also an occasional Sorrento-Positano hydrofoil service. For times see:

www.metrodelmare.com

Steve

Wow, that's a lot of info. Thanks everyone.

Now for the practical issues. What do you suggest for travel between Rome & Amalfi? From reading many posts, it looks like we have these choices.
train to Naples & then bus to Amalfi
train to Naples & ferry to Amalfi
train to Naples and private driver to Amalfi
train to Salerno & bus to Amalfi

Note, this will be on a Saturday at the end of June. I assume traffic will be bad and everything will be crowded. Also, since my husband will be at the conference in Rome at the beginning of the trip, our luggage will not be as light as we'd like for vacation.

Also, which, if any of our travel links should/can be reserved in advance?

Hi Jeri - The nicest IMO is train to SALERNO then ferry (- 35 mins) to Amalfi. Bus from Salerno is another option but takes 70 mins.

If cost is not a consideration, private driver is another option from Salerno.

There is also a Rome-Amalfi bus service - the cheapest option, but slow.

Hope this helps ...

Steve

We just got back from our trip. We booked a private driver with minvan and went from Naples to Amalfi with a three hour stop in Pompeii - cost 180E. Obviously pricey, but as there were four of us it wasn't crazily out of range of the cost of train etc. It also allowed us to work in a stop in Pompeii on the way to Amalfi (with our luggage left securely with the driver).
Not something we would do all the time, but for us this trip it was a luxury we really enjoyed.

I vote for train to Naples and private driver to Amalfi

Naples is a crazy, congested town to be in and driving the Amalfi Coast on a Saturday.... Best to leave it to the experts. We used www.aptours.it a couple of years ago for a transfer from Naples to Positano. Alberto picked us up at the train station--was standing there, sign in hand with our names on it. I think it cost us $100 for four people. Well worth it.

McCooper -- you're back already! Did you book with Dino for the minivan? Would love to hear about your trip.

Jerirl -- I recently returned from a two week trip to Rome, Capri, and Amalfi. Here is the link to my trip report. http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...i-and-rome.cfm
If you can fit it in, I think a few nights on Capri would be lovely. We also enjoyed Amalfi. If you find extra time in Rome, Orvieto is a one-hour train ride away.

Thanks for all the comments. Here is the final itinerary

3 nights Rome - DH has conference
3 nights in Amalfi at Floridiana Hotel
2 nights in Capri at Hotel Ambassador Weber
4 nights in Sorrento at Hotel Sorrento City

Note - I was surprised to be able to get or change reservations at all of the above hotels at this late date. Maybe things will not be as crowded as usual due to the recession. Anyway, sure glad to have that settled.

Still a little concerned about the transfer from Rome to Amalfi. DH says private driver sounds outrageous for two of us. But I'm worried we'll get to Naples or Salerno & then miss the bus/ferry. I checked the ferry schedule & there only appear to be a couple trips a day from Naples or Salerno to Amalfi. If that happens would there always be taxis available? Do you think bus or ferry would be easier considering we will have luggage with us?

Jeri - There are currently 6 ferries daily between Salerno (-Piazza della Concordia jetty) and Amalfi:

Deps: 08.40 – 09.40 - 10.40 - 11.40 – 14.10 – 15.30

Journey time: 35 mins
Fare: € 6.00

http://www.salernocity.com/comune/tr.../travelmar.asp

(There will be at least one extra afternoon service in June)

You can catch a Rome-Salerno train to coincide with one of these departures.
The jetty is 5 mins walk from Salerno station.
For train timetables see:
www.trenitalia.com

Alternatively, buses leave from Salerno station to Amalfi (- journey time: 70 mins).
Tickets must be bought in advance (- at newpaper vendor, Salerno statiopn) - and validated on boarding.
For bus timetables :
http://www.sitabus.it/sitabus/campan...A/QUADROXV.pdf

Otherwise taxis are available from Salerno station. Expect to pay € 100+

Hope this helps ...

Steve

P.S. As mentioned above, there is also a Rome-Amalfi bus service (- operator: Marozzi).

Dep: 07.00 Roma Tiburtina
Arr: 12.00 Amalfi

Fare:
€ 20.50 (- one way)
€ 35.50 (- return)

For details see:
http://www.marozzivt.it/

Is there any way possible you can find a way to have more nights in Naples (at least 2?)

Hi luvtotravel,yes back already! It was a great trip, thanks in large part to all the help I got here!! It has been a bit crazy at work upon return to work, but I hope to post soon with details.

Thanks again guys, especially Steve. I had been looking at a different ferry website, www.metrodelmare.com and that one had only a couple trips a day from either Naples or Salerno to Amalfi. I think we'll probably take the train to Salerno & ferry from there.

McCooper, since there's only two of us, the private driver would be pretty pricey. Also, we plan to visit Pompeii and maybe Vesuvius when we are in Sorrento.

Bardo, we plan to visit Naples on a day trip during the time we are in Sorrento. I had an earlier post on where to stay & decided Sorrento would be more relaxing.

luvtotravel, thanks for the link. I'll have to print it out to take with. I see we are staying at the same place in Amalfi, Floridiana Hotel. As I mentioned earlier I just booked it. I'm hoping that means things will be a little less crowded than usual. I have signed up for a cooking lesson in Rome on one of the days DH has his conference. I'm open to ideas for the other day - a day trip to Orvieto is a possibility. Any other suggestions for things I can do on my own are appreciated.

Re. your other day in Rome:

ENJOY ROME! I assume you spent less than 7 nights in Rome on your initial Rome/Rlorence/Venice trip. Now is the time to slow down and really enjoy it. Re-visit those tranquil piazzas you probablyy swept through on your first visit. Do the same with the more famous ones. Sit out with a book, a camera, and a bottle of wine or pot of tea. Read, sip, and be ready to snap that fleeting moment you can only catch when you slow down. Linger a little longer in those churches you visited (I could spend 6 hours in St. Peter's Basilica alone). Pop into those small churches your walked right by the last time or were closed. Maybe there were some neighborhoods you didn't spend enough time on or you missed altogether. The pressure is off - you don't need to see ancient ruins, overcrowded art galleries, etc.

Jeri - On the other hand, day-trip possibilities from Rome besides Orvieto include

Tivoli (- Hadrian's Villa & Villa d'Este)
Ostia Antica
Castel Gandolfo/Lake Albano/ Colli Albani
Assisi
Florence
Spoleto
Arezzo

... to name a few

Steve