Amalfi Coast hotel decisions to make...please help.
 

I've been browsing this forum looking for hotel rec's. Now I need help. We're a family of 4, 2 adults, 2 kids (ages 11 & 14). We'll be finishing a 18 day Italy trip on the Amalfi coast. We'll have 5 nights there. But where? I was thinking Positano (5 nights) or Positano (3 nights) & Capri (2 nights). We'll want two rooms.

I've received availability & rates from the following hotels:
Positano-
Hotel Miramare
dxl dbl (rm #210) for 300E (hubby & I)
std dbl for 195E (kids)
total-495E per night

Buca di Bacco
deluxe dbl (rm#10) for 360E (hubby & I)
OR sup dbl for 288E
std dbl for 228E (kids)
total- 516E OR 588E per night

Covo dei Saraceni
Jr suite for 362E (hubby & I)
OR dbl rm for 267E (hubby & I)
dbl for 267E (kids)
total-629E or 534E per night

Capri-
La Floridiana
2 bedroom/2 bath suite for 460E per night

Oh by the way, we'll be there in the 3rd week of August........I know, HOT and crowded, but its the only time we can take a big trip with school and all. Also the kids have said they don't need a pool. The beach/docks/boating will be fine.

Also I've seen plenty of people comment that Sorrento is better with kids but if we don't need the night life or transportation hub (we already did a whole day of Pompeii on another trip), is Sorrento still better???

I would really appreciate any feed back. thanks.

Hi marieb,

I'm one of several posters here who's a big fan of Miramare's Room 210. Here's a link to my trip report for a description:

http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34459078

I think part of your consideration for choosing rooms, however, has to be how much you will actually get to enjoy it. Will your kids do their own thing so that you and your husband will have time to yourself, or will your family always be together, out and about? If the latter, for example, I'm not sure that getting #210 would make all that much sense, since the best part about it is the terrace. You might be better off getting two doubles. All the rooms at the Miramare have full sea views, so you can't go wrong. The only difference really is how big the room and the terrace are.

Note that Miramare has no pools--I'm not sure if Buca or Covo do.

One other consideration is location. Miramare has a better location with respect to the views, but not in terms of convenience. You'll have to hike a lot of stairs up and down to go to town. It wasn't a problem for us, but might be a consideration for your family. Buca di Bacco and Covo are closer to the beach and the town center. Perhaps it'll be a bit noisier--I can't say for sure.

Also, note that the "beach" in Positano is really pebbly--not a white sandy beach.

I think you'll be fine in Positano going to elsewhere on the AC, if that's your desire. The boats will be running, and it'll be easy to get to other towns. Don't miss Ravello!

In any case, don't miss the pizza at Buca di Bacco (excellent). Also try to take a bus up to Montepertuso, a tiny village that sits way above Positano. Go to Il Ritrovo with your kids (the restaurant will even pick you up in town and drop you off for free); go to Donna Rosa for a romantic lunch or dinner with your husband (maybe a little to formal for your children). Enjoy!

Hi Marieb,

I'd be wary about staying at hotels with no pool in August. We visited Sorrento, Capri, and the Amalfi Coast last July with our kids ( 12 and 15) and the average daily temperatures hovered between 85-90 degrees.

"Beaches" in the area are really strips of grainy sand, stone swimming piers, or rocks. You could rent a boat for a day and swim off the sides, but with a family of 4, that could be prohibitive.

In Positano, I know that Covo dei Sarceni has a newly renovated pool area overlooking town. I haven't stayed there, so I can't comment on the rooms, but you could check previous posts and tripadvisor.com for comments.

In Capri, we stayed at Hotel Luna, which is just off the main piazzetta, and has a huge pool set in an old lemon grove. The hotel is pricey, (about $300 per room with a view of the coast) but the location, rooms, and pool were excellent. Other hotels in Capri w/pools that are often recommended on the forum re: Casa Morgano, Villa Brunella, and Hotel Marmella (sp?).

In Sorrento, we stayed at Hotel Tramontano, again because it offered a pool. And yes, we really made use of it for the better part of the early morning and late afternoon. The hotel was lovely, and we had beautiful rooms overlooking the Bay of Naples. Rooms cost about $240/night.

Although Positano is heaven on earth if you're a honeymooner, or couple celebrating an anniversary, I don't think it's so great for families. There's lots of stairclimbing to do back and forth from town, and the atmosphere is very romantic and QUIET.

Anyway, good luck with your choices! Just post again if you need further info.

Hi,
Sounds like a great trip. Regarding hotels on the coast:
I stayed in the Hotel Santa Caterina in Amalfi, stunning on a cliff with a elevator down to the pool deck on the sea, beautiful! Also stayed in Positano at Le Sirensue, can't get much better then this! spa, pool, beautiful location.....
Let us know where you stay!
Best,
John

Thanks for the help so far......your comments have been helpful.

coffeeaddict-I'll keep in mind what you mentioned about the 'romantic room #210' at the Miramare.

Buca does sound like a good location. Covo has a pool but it is the most expensive and I have read some negative reviews about the rooms there.

Re: 'the beaches', from posts here, pictures & guide book descriptions I was aware of the rocky nature of the beaches. I've warned the kids not to expect Florida or even Hawaii type beaches. It's fine with us. The kids will enjoy swimming and playing around on the rocks. They're boys!

Thanks for the rest rec's. They all sound great. We are comfortable leaving our kids alone in their hotel room occasionally so we can have a nice dinner alone. We just try to dine close to the hotel. We've done it on other trips, to Italy and the states.

weadles- Thank you for your advise. Of course now I'm rethinking staying in Positano. Maybe we should stay in Sorrento instead. Do you think we should divide our time between Sorrento/Positano AND Capri? 3 nights on the coast and 2 nights on Capri? We don't mind changing hotels, but is it worth it? I did check out the Luna, Mamemla and Brunella on Capri. Mamela has the best rates. Brunella looks too expensive for us. The Luna looks beautiful. I'll check availability there. La Floridiana looks very nice, but has no pool and I can't seem to find anyone who has stayed there. They are recommended in the Cardogan guide. They have a 2 bed/2 bath suite available for 460 E.

I can't get onto the Hotel Tramontano's web site. I'll keep trying.

One last question- Capri first then the coast OR the coast first then Capri OR the coast only and Capri as a day trip??? Background: we're arriving mid day Sat (from Tuscany) via train in Naples then leaving Thurs PM for Rome, to fly home Fri AM.

Thanks again! I feel rather indulgent to have such 'dilemmas' to worry about. I've been accused by family and friends of over examining or planning a trip! Sorry, it's my nature I guess.

I should have been clearer--Il Ritrovo and Donna Rosa are up in Montepertuso, a village sitting above Positano. You can get there via a 10 minute drive or a bus ride from Positano. Since you mentioned, however, that you want to be close to your children if you go alone, Montepertuso might be a bit out of the way for that. Still, I'd recommend dinner for your entire family at Il Ritrovo.

Wherever you choose to stay, you'll have a great time.

I would suggest you go to Capri first. You can take a cab from the Naples train station to the ferry. There are numerous car services that can take you from Positano to Naples if you are taking a train back to Rome. We did it in this order last year because it seemed like there was less uncertainy. Weather should not be an issue in August but I have read that weather conditions that can change or stop Fery schedule.As we were leaving Capri, all Ferry traffic was stopped for about 45 minutes due to the arrival of a politican.
As for lodging, we loved the Buca and stayed in room 10. The terrace and view were beautiful. Your sons will have a great time in the water and the small rocky beach will not be a problem for them.I think the location of the hotel is very convenient and we enjoyed Positano. I am glad we stayed there rather than Sorrento,which has a city atmsospere.
On Capri, you might like a hotel with a pool if swimming is important. There are few public beaches and hard to reach. The island is fun to explore and many paths for some great and long walks. Be sure to go Anacapri and take chair lift to top for a breathtaking view. Da Gelsomina is a great plcae for lunch. Have them pick you up at the Anacapri square as walk is long and confusing to get there. If you need any other suggestions let me know. You will have a trip of a lifetime.

Gosh, thanks everyone. There's always so much great info on this board.

cassparker-The Santa Caterina looks spectacular, but too expensive for us if we want 2 rooms.

coffeeaddict-We'll definitely go to Il Ritrvo. So many people recommend it. As for Donna Rosa, we'll see when we get there how we feel about leaving the kids alone long enough to go there.

Letah- I was thinking it might be smarter to go to Capri first. I have to work on the loggistics of all the transportation involved in getting there from Tuscany. We'll have a rental car, but was planning to drop it near a train station and go by rail to Naples. We won't need or want a car down there.

Quest about Buca. In their email re: availability, they offered a dbl std rm for our kids and rm #10 for us, but they remarked that 'the rooms were on the floor above the hall'. Does that mean it's nosiy? How was it for you?

Thanks for the tips for Capri. Swimming is not a necessity for my kids (they swim everyday all summer on a swim team! One of them actually swims on a year round team. He's usually sick of pools.) They've looked at info online about Capri and are excited about hiking around and exploring the island.

Has anyone dined at Lo'Guarracino in Positano?

Marieb,

My wife and I stayed at the Covo Dei Saraceni in April of 2000. The hotel is wonderfully located and the rooms were awesome. We had an ocean front room with a huge bathroom and sitting room. In the movie; "Under the Tuscan Sun" you will see some good shoys of the hotel. The service and location can't be beat. If you have car, their parking lot can't be beat for quick access. I have kids your age and would not hesitate to go back with them. We are going back from 3 weeks with our kids in May 2004 but won't being going to Positano this time.

Enjoy,

Brad

There is a small hotel called Villa Gabrisa, http://www.villagabrisa.com/

My daughter is staying there with her 2 children this summer. It is on the other small beach. I don't think it is luxury, but I think it has a 2-bedroom unit with a kitchen that she has reserved. The kitchen might be nice with the kids. Villa Rosa is another good choice with fabulous views, but not luxury. The Murat is very nice and central, but doesn't have the views unless you book the most expensive rooms. My other daughter is getting married this summer at the church in Positano and we are having the wedding reception at the Murat. I personally didn't care for Capri. I would base myself in Positano and take day trips. You can spend an entire day in Ravello, a day in Naples seeing the museum and pompeii, a day in Sorrento, a day in Positano, and maybe a day just relaxing! My first trip I spent 6 nights in Positano and it was not too long. I spent 4 nights each, the next 2 trips and I am going to be there for another 5 days this summer. I can't get enough of it. The Sirenuse is fabulous, but very expensive. Hope this helped. WT

Hi Marieb, We found the Buca to be very quiet despite being almost full. There are serveral short hallways so there is little traffic or noise by your room. We had a delicious lunch at O'Guarracino(sp?). A friend of mine spends one month each fall in Positano and considers this to be a favorite. It is about a 5 minute walk from the Buca. We found La Cambusa to be very touristy, probably due to write up in Gourmet Magazine. Our favorite dinner in Positano was Da Vincenzo.Let me know if you have any other questions.This board and all the responses have made our trips wonderful.

Since your kids are good swimmers, plan to swim into the Blue Grotto on
Capri. The island bus service will take you to a spot where you walk down some stairs and enter the water outside the Grotto opening. There is a cable affixed to the side of the Grotto to help you make your way in and out. No need to spend money and time doing the boat tours into the Grotto.

Forgot: At the top of the chair lift from Anacapri is a mountaintop terrace with a snack bar and, if I recall correctly, a public pool... And the view is fabulous.

Hi marieb,

I'd suggest splitting up your trip this way: Two nights in Capri, and three in either Sorrento or Positano. From Capri, there is hydrofoil service ( about 40 min.) and ferry service to Sorrento. There is also ferry service to Positano, but some days it doesn't run if the water is rough. Sorrento has a larger and deeper port, so it's less of a problem.

In Capri, my kids very much enjoyed the touristy Blue Grotto trip. There's a tourist office a few steps away from the funicular landing that can help with arrangements, and it should be cheaper than doing it through your hotel.

As for Positano vs. Sorrento, it's really your call. My kids preferred Sorrento because it IS a city, with lots of restaurants, shops, internet cafes, and a wonderful fishing village to explore. Positano is tiny, one of my favorite places in the world, but probably not so great with kids. We took a daytrip to Positano from Sorrento this time, and it was enough for them to see the town just for the afternoon (SIGH!)...

Good luck with your plans!

Marieb,

I forgot to add that the Tramontano website is: www.tramontano.com. We enjoyed our stay there very much!

Thanks again everyone!

bsteele-Glad to hear you liked the Covo. It is the most expensive of the hotels we're looking at though. Since the kids have said they don't care about a pool we might forgo the Covo and save a little money for the restuarants.

wandering texan-Thanks for the info on villagabrissa. I'll take a look at their site. Is it convenient to town? I think I will check availability at the villa rosa too. I'm leaning towards Buca due to the location. The boys will probably enjoy being that close to the water.

Letah-Happy to hear O'Guarracino is good. I've seen pictures of the views from the patio-looks awesome. Is Da Vincenzo an expensive rest, family friendly or a romantic couples spot? Can you tell me any other info about Buca? There web site in kinda skimpy on pictures.

Jean-Good tip about swimmming into the blue grotto. I hadn't heard about that before. And the snack bar at Anacapri.

Weadles- I like the 2/3 plan. I was leaning that way. Now I think it would be smart to go to Capri first though and finish in either Positano or Sorrento. I was able to get on to the Tramontano site finally. It does look very nice. Great views too.

It appears my main dilemma now is Positano vs. Sorrento...neither my kids nor husband are shoppers at all. Found that out the hard way on our last trip! Husband will enjoy relaxing, beautiful scenery some sightseeing and great food. Kids will enjoy being outdoors, hiking around, exploring, any wildlife, the water, rocks, and good meals that do not last 4+ hrs! And finally, for me, I will just be happy to be there. One thing I would like to do is rent scooters to ride around? I drive a vespa at home and my husband used to ride a motorcyle. I know it would be different there....would we be crazy to try? Where would be the best place? Capri?

Thought on a possible side trip, anyone have experience with Paestum (sp?) On a prior trip we did a private full day tour of Pompeii. It was a highlight of our trip.

marieb,

> Kids will enjoy being outdoors, hiking around, exploring, any wildlife, the water, rocks, and good meals that do not last 4+ hrs!

If you stay in Positano, you can do hikes through Montepertuso and Nocelle. You could climb UP from Positano, or you can do what we did, which is take the SITA bus from town and go up, and then work our way down. It's a completely different view of Positano since you're so much higher up, and a different setting because they're farming villages. (Yes, there are olive trees and vineyards in the cliffs of the Amalfi Coast!) It took us 4 hours to make our way down because we took so many pictures, but you could do it in an hour and half.) I believe there is at least one book listed somewhere on this board that has recommended trails.

Also, don't miss Ravello. Beautiful place. There are two main villas there--Villla Rufalo, which has a nicer view, and Villa Cimbrone, which has nicer grounds. You can easily do a half day in Ravello. Its town square is charming. There are cafes that ring the perimeter, you can grab a light meal there. The duomo in Ravello is not much to look at, although it does contain a glass vessel of blood to honor a town saint or patriach, I believe. A bit gruesome.

My understanding of Villa Rosa is that it is more a basic accommodation--not in the same class as the ones you are considering now, but still nice.

Hi Marieb, I can't say enough good things about Buca.Whole I love to stay in very deluxe hotels like Le Sireunse I equally enjoy charming hotels. Buca is small and charming. They have a very pretty room and beautiful terrace where they serve a delicious breakfast. As I mentioned. the terrace for room 10 is larger than most U.S.hotel rooms. It has very nice patio furniture and is a wonderful spot to have a glass of wine before you go to dinner. Da Vincenzo would be great for you and your sons, not too fancy, but great food and atmosphere. I don't remember prices but thought it was reasonable.
We did go to Paestum on our way to Santa Maria de Castelabate. It is a fairly long drive from Positano. I would guess around 4 hours.Going anywhere on the Amalfi Drive takes longer than you would think. You will have fun exploring other towns like Ravello that are close to Positano.Paestum may be good for another trip. It is worth seeing.
In my opinion there is no decision between Sorrento and Positano. Sorrento does not have the charm.

Hmm... Now you've got me. I totally agree that Positano has more charm and beauty than SOrrento, but hotel accomodations are slightly cheaper, and transportation connections to Naples, Capri, Positano can all be done by boat which saves you a huge headache in the summer traffic. Both places offer wonderful restaurants.

Just so you know, no one in my family is a shopper either, but we spent our days down at Marina Grande ( small fishing village) at the pool, and visiting Positano by boat. We were going to take the ferry to Naples for a day, but one of the kids got sick. I guess my point is that there's plenty to do for three days, with a lot left over!

If you do opt for Positano, coffeeaddict pointed out that there's a hiking trail back down from the village of Montepertuso.( This village is home to the restaurants IL RITROVO and DONNA ROSA) It's well worth doing that if your kids are into hiking. As I remember, one of the trails starts at Santa Maria Della Grazie, the church in the center of town. Again, this could be a very full daytrip from Sorrento, done by boat.

Anyway, good luck with your choice! You really can't go wrong either way.

I'd go for the 534 option at Covo dei Saraceni. Even if the kids are good about giving up the pool, that's a terrific pool that anyone would love, especially in August in Positano. The double rooms are good and most/all have seaview. You can still hike to Montepertuso and have breakfast at the cute outdoor area at Buca di Bacco. Because Positano is smaller I think you'd feel safer giving the kids a bit of freedom than you would in Sorrento.

Thanks again for the helpful info everyone. I had a busy wknd and could not get online.

coffeeaddict- I like the idea of a bus ride uphill and the hike down to town. As for Ravello, do you recommend a ferry or bus to get there and back? The vessel of blood sounds like something the kids would get a kick out of seeing. They have been to the torture Mus in San G and thought it was 'cool'. And they've seen 'parts' of St. Catherine all over Italy.

Does anyone know of this hiking trails book?

Letah- I too like deluxe but enjoy charming smaller hotels more than grand places. My husband loves to relax on a balcony, read or listen music and enjoy a great view. Positano and Buca sound perfect.

We'll skip Paestum this trip.

jmv-I've made a reservation at Covo & Buca. I am leaning towards Buca. If as travel time gets closer and we decide we will want a pool then we'll go for Covo.

My husband and I were in Positano this past summer for 10 days with some friends from Germany. I had Lo'Guarracino on my "must do" list from all reviews and pictures. Three of us went there one night but the owner wouldn't let us sit on the balcony that has the wooden rails and trees. We pleaded as there were tables open but she said since we had three people we couldn't sit there. Our view, and meal, were not worth the walk over.

On another note, we ate at several other restaurants and ended up going back many times to La Cambusa. We sat the first couple of times in Luciano's station and from then on he looked for us and saved us a table on the front edge overlooking the beach and water. They were very eager to make me a special salad most meals that was a combination of ingredients from a couple of dishes (I'm cursed with an aversion to all fish) while my husband ate everything on the menu and loved it.

As an alternative trip to Capri, I recommend the all-day trip to Capri with Salvatore who has a 'booth' on the pier. Best money we spend the entire time!

marieb,

I think the hiking book is: "Landscapes of Sorrento and the Amalfi Coast" by Julian Tippett. I never looked into it, but I recall this from other threads (I think). Anyway, here's a link with ordering and book info:

http://www.ondaverde.it/sentiero_deglidei.htm

Also try a search for "Path of the Gods." Good luck.

Parker-Interseting info on Lo' Gurarracino.......we'll keep that in mind. I have read good things about La Cambusa. Did you ever try Chez Black? Sounds like everyone likes Il Ritrovo. We'll definitely go there.

Coffeeaddict-Thanks again for all the helpful info. I'll use your link to look up the trails book. Ever heard of a book on the Amalfi Coast by sunflower books?

We did eat at Chez Black and had a very good meal. The issue we had was that it is at beach level with raised plantings between the tables and the beach. There are oftentimes people sitting on the edge of the planters waiting for a seat, or just hanging out which blocks the view of the water. If you sit near the front (beach-side), it feels like everyone is watching you eat. But they had great pizza!

La Cambusa is one level above the crowds so if you have a great view if you have a table around the edge. We tend to dine early for Italians and got there about 7:30 or 8pm when we ate so had front row seats every time. Buca di Baco dining room is also one level up on the beach with great views, however it didn't have as much variety for my taste (mostly fish - and pictures of each and every very ugly fish to boot) so while my husband was happy, I wasn't.

Haven't heard of the sunflower books you mentioned.

We ate at La Cambusa on the advice of this board. It was OK--nothing special. We felt the service was a little rushed and there was nothing of note with the food.

One place we did go to was Il Mulino Verde (I believe that's the name), which is located right in the center of town and has a sizeable patio (not beachfront, but a nice atmosphere nonetheless). Good, cheap pizza there--not as good as Buca, but still good. You'll see lots of locals carrying take out from there in its green paper.

Do try to go to Donna Rosa if you can. Although it is definitely a "fine dining" experience--your kids probably will think it too fancy--the food is excellent and the service is very warm and gracious. Their pasta is especially delicious. It's pricey--we went to lunch and spent $100 euros for the two of us, but it was the best meal we had in Positano.

Does Da Vincenzo or Lo Guarracino have web sites? I am trying to pick a place for a rehersal dinner.

Hi,
Another route to take is renting a aprarment or house for you and your family. Iplan in doing this the next time I go. If you like go on:
www.viatraveldesign.com
Many, many sizes and prices, some very good.....
Enjoy,
John

Hello again, been busy with work....
coffeeaddict-You have such great info on Positano, thanks for sharing. I'm sure my husband and I will feel comfortable enough to leave the boys for an evening at the hotel so we can dine alone at Donna Rosa. It sounds terrific. I found a post about the sunflower book and a link to order it.

A little twist to our plans, I was able to get our departure flight changed from 7am out of Rome to 11am out of Naples. Now we'll have an extra night for the AC area. Probably add it to Positano.

I'm having some trouble with Capri hotels. I like the Luna, but they are booked for the first night we want there and then only have standard dbls. The Mamela doen't have an email address that I can find and when I try to fax them, it's always busy. I'm waiting on a reply from the Floridiana re: changing the reservation to the first 2 nights of our 6 nights in the AC area.

My questions is, if we stay in Positano first then Capri, would it be difficult go get from Capri to the Naples airport for an 11am flight? Seems like it would be easier to leave from Positano via car/driver directly to the airport.

Any thoughts or suggestions? Thank you!

Marieb,

Many hotels on the AC and in Capri are closed for renovations, repairs, etc during January. And typically they only have part-time staff this time of year. That may be why you're not hearing back from many of them.

As for leaving from Capri for an 11 AM flight out of Naples, there's no way I would chance it. Too many variables.

Maybe you should stay in Naples for one night. Many posters here ( incl. Ira) have recommended it, and it's supposed to be a fascinating city. Also, it would save you from having to get up extremely early ( Positano is about 1 and a half to two hours from Naples, depending on traffic) on your day of departure.