Amalfi Coast+Capri
 

Hello Fodorites

My husband and I have booked our flight into Naples and have also booked 4 nights at the Miramare Hotel in Positano and then 3 nights at Hotel Luna in Capri. What I would like you to do is advise me with any tips of what we must see, do, where to eat, what to buy and where etc - we would also like advise as to transport from Naples to Positano. We are thinking of taking a cab. Would this be cheaper than asking the Hotel to fetch us? Do we need to arrange for our luggage to be taken to our Hotel Miramare in Positano as I believe there are a lot of steps. Does the cab driver do this or does the hotel send their porter? If anyone has stayed at the Miramare could you please let me know what the procedure was? We would also like to know if it is best to take the hydrofoil from Positano to Capri. How often do they run? When we get to Capri, do you catch a cab, bus and what happens to the luggage? Any advise to make everything run smoothly would be great. Please also tell us that our Hotel choice is OK?

Many thanks

Rose

Hello

I forgot to mention in the previous post if you could recommend daily trips from Positano and also if anyone has gone to Ischis from Capri for the day and how easy it is to do this?

Many thanks again now and for all the wonderful information on this site.

Rose

Sorry, my spelling...I mean Ischia

Rose

Sorry but... What to see, what to do, what to eat, what to buy, how to do this, how to do that.... Have you thought about buying a guidebook?

Hi Rose,

If you do a text search on "Positano" and on "Capri" you will find lots of advice.

I can help with transport from Naples to Positano. See http://www.italyby.com/ludovica/pages/reach.htm or
http://www.ondaverde.it/arrivareim.htm

If you don't wish to take the bus or train a private limo would be better than a taxi.

We have arranged for Cuomo Renato
www.cuomonet.it [email protected]

to take us to our hotel from Naples. There are others if you do a search for "Positano AND Limousine".

I can highly recommend the excellent drivers we have used in the past and will use again this July for your pickup from Naples.

They are the Gargiulos, and they can be reached by e-mail at [email protected], or by cell phone at: (Dad's number)3387306575; (Son's number)3335226029. Excellent drivers, hysterically funny, and drive air conditioned Mercedes. I got their names off this site two years ago, and couldn't have been happier with the choice.

In and around Positano, we enjoyed very much lunch or dinner at our hotel, the Poseidon. The food and views were heavenly!
Also, not to be missed: Two restaurants we went to in Montpertuso: Il Ritrovo, which was out of this world, and Donna Rosa. Montpertuso is about a 15 min. drive from Positano. Ask at your hotel desk whether the restaurant will arrange transportation back and forth for you. You can also go there for lunch, and hike back to Positano afterwards by following the trail from the Santa Maria della Grazia church in the center of town.

We are going to Luna hotel in Capri this July. The hotel told me to call one day ahead, let them know the time of hydrofoil arrival, and they will send their porter to meet us and take the luggage to the hotel.

A word of warning: SOmetimes there is no hydrofoil service from Positano because of rough water conditions. At these times, you'll have to go to Sorrento to take the hydrofoil over to Capri. I'm sure the hotel can help you arrange this.

From Positano, you can take easy daytrips up and down the coast on Sita buses, although they tend to be quite crowded in the summer months. You can also take a boat from Positano to Amalfi and back for a daytrip. Well worth doing.

Good luck, and have fun!~

I would take a boat from Naples to Positano. I know they go to Sorrento and assume they go to Positano.

The Sita bus along the coast is a great ride. However, the drivers floor the gas, floor the breaks and have a hand on the horn. If travel sickness is an issue at all stay away from the bus.

Rosita - A pre-booked limo will normally cost less than a taxi. The going rate currently seems to be € 100-120.

For hydrofoils/ferries from Positano to Capri, you can find timetables on:

http://www.capri.net/home/en/transport.php

To do Ischia as a day-trip from Capri you would have to go first to Sorrento, from where there is a departure at 09.30 to Ischia. (An alternative route would be via Naples)

Your return trip would also have to be via Sorrento (- or Naples).
You can find timetables to/from Ischia on this link:

http://www.ischiaonline.it/page.php?...amp;sez=MOVIME

Hope this helps ...

Steve

Thank you all for your wealth of information, specially Steve, Myer, Ira and Weadles. I have e-mailed our hotel in Positano and they have quoted me E100 for them to send a driver to collect us from Naples airport. Reading all your information, I think this would be cheaper that getting a cab from the airport....what do you think. Weadles, I will be e-mailing your contacts to get a quote from them as well. Steve, thanks for your input as I was not aware that we could not go straight from Capri to Ischia. This might put a different prospective on it as getting to Ischia might eat into our day trip and sight seeing time. We originally thought of hiring scooters to go around the Island....any suggestions would be great. Montpertusso sounds like a must to go and eat as this has been mentioned a lot on this site. Would we need to book in advance - we will be there in 3 weeks time?

Many thanks again

Rose

Rosita - The only direct Capri-Ischia service currently is late afternoon (- with the Ischia-Capri service in the morning). So Capri works as a day-trip FROM Ischia, but not vice-versa ... ON THE CURRENT TIMETABLE.

But I would re-check this when you go - timetables change in high season, so it may well be possible.

But going via Sorrento wouldn't present a problem, - it's only 20 mins from Capri. Looking at the timetable, the return should allow you to catch the last Sorrento-Capri service. You would have 6-7 hours on Ischia, I think.

Check the Ischia websites for scooter hire:
www.ischiaonline.it
www.ischia.com

€ 100.00 sounds about right for Capodichino-Positano. I don't think you'll get it much cheaper.

Hope this helps ...

Steve

Steve, you are so helpful re: Amalfi area. Thanks so much for all your info. A couple more, if you will: I assume you just hire a taxi to get from Positano to Montpettuso (sp) for dinner. Do they just drop you and retrieve on call or do they wait for you? Which of the two restaurants do you prefer there? Thanks.

Now that I think of it, I have the same question about Don Alfonso in Sant'Agata
though that's further from Positano. Taxi or limo to do dinner there? Do they drop off and pick up later or wait? Thanks.

Hi,

Ask at your hotel if the restaurant you are interested in will provide transportation. Some of them do.

Thanks Steve.....you are a great help. Should you require any information on any other parts of Italy - in particular Portofino, I would only be too happy to help. We have been there 3 times in the last 3 years and have just loved it. People have told us that if we loved Portofino, we would also love Positano. We cannot wait to go. I just do not seem to get enough of Italy. Should you require a very good "Agritouristo" place to stay just outside of San Giminano, I can also help you with that.

Rose

Thanks Rosita - If you like Portofino I'm sure you'll love Positano!

Here are a few Amalfi Coast pix to whet your appetite:

http://www.capri-exclusive.com/cgi-bin/imageFolio.cgi

(Wish they were mine ... )

JmVikmanis - Montepertuso is only 10 mins up the hill, so I don't think you'd need a driver to wait. You could just fix a return time - or get the restaurant to call one ...

There is a Positano-Montepertuso bus service, so that's a cheap (77 cents)option. Here's the link:

http://www.flaviogioia.com/eng/orari.htm

The last bus back may run later in high season ...

I haven't tried either of those restaurants at Montepertuso yet. Next time, perhaps ... :)

I guess it's more likely a taxi might wait for you at Don Alfonso's. It won't be cheap though.

Hope this helps ...

Steve

Rosita-
While we were in Positano, we had dinner at two restaurants in Montepertuso: Il Ritrova and La Tragliata. Both had car service and they picked us up at our hotel and dropped us off after dinner- we just tipped the driver. Very convenient for us- we had our hotel concierge arrange it with the restaurants. Both places were excellent for dinner and very very friendly. I would highly recommend both. I think both were comparably priced at about 70E for dinner for two- this included a shared antipasto, a shared pasta, and a meat course a piece. Both places gave us complimentary desserts!
Jane

Thanks Steve and Jane S for your help. Can't wait to be in Positano again.

My husband and I just returned from Positano and had a wonderful time. After trying out several restaurants, we ended up going back again and again to La Cambusa on the beach. It's actually one level up from the beach with allows you to have a great view of the comings and goings on the beach. Our waiter, Luciano, was wonderful! Very attentive, helpful, and accommodated my special requests for a great salad! The Spinach Ravioli with cream sauce is to die for. If you get a chance, stop in and ask for him. Go early to get a seat up front. Tell him the Parkers sent you! You'll love it!

We will try La Cambusa and the Spinach Ravioli sound just up my street. What was the weather like and was it very crowded?

Rose

Rosita,
As far as I am concerned, three nights is a long time to stay on Capri. It is usually a day trip from Sorrento or Positano. Positano is a very hilly town. I hope you know that. Personally, I would stay in Sorrento for the whole week, and take day trips to the rest of the Amalfie Drive, and to Capri. Or at least, Sorrento for four nights and Positano for three nights. This is much better in my opinion.
Gaius Julius

The weather was hot, hot, hot. But, I've heard, so was the rest of Europe while we were there. My daughter was in Amsterdam and it was in the 90s there. It was not overly crowded until the weekend. Then, there were a lot of Italians who came to the beach for the day. You make your way through small walkways down to the beach. The walkways have shops on both sides so people are stopping to window shop, take pictures, etc. This makes it difficult to squeeze through in some places but it's also fun so people watch and try to fiqure out where everyone is from (men wearing white sox are from the US). We took a ferry to Amalfi and to Sorrento which were great day trips. Also a trip to Ravelo was very nice. There's a ceramic shop there (Ceramiche d'arte) that has a great selection and even better prices! Have a great time. I wish I could go back. Ciao . . .

Buon Giorno Rosita!

We just got back from Positano this past Weds after staying at the Miramare for 5 nights (before that, we stayed at the Caesar Augustus for 5 nights and before that, we stayed on Ischia for 5 nights) so, I might be able to answer a few questions for you.

Believe this or not, the afternoon desk clerk at the Miramare is named Rosita and she speaks excellent English. By all means, call her to arrange a pickup at the airport. After a long flight with luggage in tow, it sure is nice to see someone holding your name on a card when you get thru Customs. The ride is about 1 hour and will cost € 100 + tip for an English speaking driver in a new Mercedes. He will help put your luggage in/out of the car, but he will not carry them down the stairs to the hotel. But, he can call the desk clerk when you arrive and they will send up a porter pronto to fetch your stuff, free + tip.

To hire the same car for travel up and down the highway, the charge is € 35 per hour + tip. So, the short trips to Montepertuso will run about € 10/15. As already mentioned, Il Retrovo and La Tagliata will provide vans to pick you up and take you back. Just ask Rosita to make arrangements for you. We took one to Ravello and bought too much from Ceramiche d'arte (couldn't resist the quality and price).

Let me give you some insight to the Miramare. The Via Trara Gendino that the Miramare is located on, is not actually a street, it's a stairway from the beach to the main road, Via Pasitea. The Miramare is located exactly 211 steps up from the beach and about 100 steps down from Via Pasitea. But don't let that discourage you. The Miramare is beautifully appointed inside and the views of the bay and the east side of Postano from your terrace (and your bath tub) will be inspirational, to say the least. Rosita and the staff are extremely helpful and nice.

Be sure to schedule a boat trip on their "O Sole Mio" as soon as you arrive. It actually belongs to the Murat, but since the Miramare is also owned by the same family, the boat use is shared. The price is free + tip. We sailed for a three hour excursion around the Li Galli with two other couples and the captain.

Great restaurants you must not miss is Da Vincenzo at the top of the stairs and Lo Guarracino (our favorite). Rosita will give you a map and easy directions. Chez Black on the beach boardwalk is also good and exciting to just have dinner and people-watch.
Since we took the hydofoil from Capri to Positano, I don't know what the schedule is going the other direction, but there are small ticket offices at the dock where you can wait to buy tickets (biglietti for yourselves AND your luggage) the day you leave for Capri at about € 12 pp + € 1.50 per luggage.

I disagree with most of the posters in that even though we spent 5 nights there, we didn't have enough time to do all the things we wanted to. You must visit Anacapri. There, visit la Chiesa San Michele and take the chairlift up to Mte. Solaro for the incredible views. Also, don't miss San Michele, Axel Munthe's villa. And there are numerous hikes to various villas built by Tiberius during the 1st century, like Villa Jovis and Damecuta. We also hired a boat to take us around the island and the Blue Grotto for a morning trip at € 135 + tip. Great Restaurants were La Capannina in Capri and Il Cucciolo in Anacapri.

Lastly, it was very hot in Italy during our visit (low 30s C / low 90s F), but the Met was cool and refreshing. Every place we went was extremely clean and the people were extremely friendly. I hope you have a wonderful vacation.

I wish I was going back with you. Enjoy!

Molte Gracia Viaggiatore

I have just picked up your response and am most grateful for all your information as this is exactly what I was looking for. What a coincidence with regard to Rosita at Miramare. I very seldom come across the same name. In a weeks time we will be there and cannot wait. We will certainly take the boat trip the hotel has to offer and then do day trips to Amalfi/Ravello and Sorrento. My biggest worry is the steps, but I suppose if you take it slowly and leisurely it should be OK?? How far is the Miramare away from shops etc?
Did the Miramare arrange your pick up from Naples airport?
Many thanks again

Rosita

Hello Rosita,

The steps of Positano can definitely take their toil during mid-day when the temp is in the 90s and the humidity is 100%, but it's vertical axis just one of the unique qualities about this lovely town. When the locals climb, you'll notice they rarely stop until they have reached their level of destination. We passed many tourists on the stairs, who like ourselves were "huffing and puffing". During our stay, it seemed hotter in the mornings than the afternoons, I guess because the ocean breezes began after siesta time. If you take your time and stop frequently to rest, you can absorb & enjoy the panorama of Positano's vast scenery. After you catch your breath, I'm sure you'll feel energized to continue the climb.

The Miramare is centrally located on the town's hillside. We found the easiest way to the shops from the hotel was to climb up to Via Pasitea and follow the one-way road downhill toward the center of town (about a 10 minute walk from here). The shops begin shortly after you pass the Hotel Poseidon. When Via Pasitea bottoms out at the bus stop, turn to the right on Via dei Mulini and follow down to the boardwalk on the beach. Most of the shops and banks are on this Via and it's strickly walking traffic only, no vehicles allowed. Don't forget to stop at the Lemon Shop where everything they sell, ceramics, lemoncello, soaps are all from local lemons (smells wonderful in here). There are numerous fashion shops that sell bikinis to linen and tapestry. About midways down, you walk under a huge, bougainvillea-covered arbor in front of the Palazzo Murat. Here's where some local artists sell prints and handmade jewelry. Further down, still some more shops all the way to the boardwalk at the bottom, where you have several restaurants to choose from for lunch (pranzo). Up a small set of stairs just beyond Chez Black, turn right and continue up a slight grade to the start of Via Trara Gendino and your 211 steps back up to your room in the Miramare.

For us this route proved to be easier than going the opposite way.

As far as the driver FROM the airport, we didn't go directly to Positano. Rosita arranged our driver TO the airport when we left. When we arrived in Naples at the start of our holiday, we went to Ischia first, then Capri, then to Positano. Our first hotel on Ischia arranged for a driver to pick us up at the airport and take us to Molo Beverello, where we caught a hydrofoil to Ischia.

By all means, I would call Rosita and have her arrange for a driver to pick you up at the airport and drive you to Positano. Start you holiday off right and leave the transport to someone else.

I'm very happy for you. If there's anything else I can help with, let me know. Have a wonderful trip!

BTW Rosita,

This is the car service we used in Positano: Limousine Service Five Stars. They have a website at:

http://www.limocarservice.net/

I have also read on some other posts that recommend Flavio Gioia's service. He also has a website at:

http://www.flaviogioia.com/

Make a reservation and relax. Or let Rosita at the Miramare do it for you. Have a great trip!

Thanks everyone for all your help and information. I have booked for the Miramare to collect us from Naples airport. We leave in 2 days time and just cannot wait. On my return I will be able to give you first hand information as well and will only be too happy to answer your question.

Cio