All Saints Day - Tuscany
Apr 22nd, 2008, 07:12 AM
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All Saints Day - Tuscany
I've seen several questions on other threads about this Nov 1st holiday. I had similar questions before our trip but didn't find much. We were thoroughly unprepared for what we encountered. So here's a tip sheet -- in the form of a mini trip report.
We arrived on All Saints Day 11/1/07 at Florence airport. Our first clue was the stand-still traffic on the highway south (about noon on a Thursday). Who knew there were so many RV's and campers in Italy?! Traffic crawled until we got off the highway and headed to Greve.
We spent Thurs/Fri in the Chianti region: Castellina. Crowds weren't bad. In fact, things were winding down for the season. It was glorious. Fall colors were beyond anything I've ever seen. Imagine Vermont -- with vibrant gold & crimson vineyards around every curve! Chianti is heavily forested and we constantly pinched ourselves as we drove through this endless oil painting, wishing everyone we knew could see it with us. It was Heaven.
[Maybe the lighter crowds in Chianti were due our being there on weekdays. But we did not get the impression they were bracing for a deluge of tourists on the weekend. We stuck to the smaller hill towns, but -- based on our later experience -- I would guess San Gim and Siena were overcrowded on those days.]
Then Saturday morning we headed for southern Tuscany and everything changed.
We wanted to see Siena on the way to our apartment outside Pienza. It took 2 hours just to drive into Siena, then another hour to park. Once inside, crowds were shoulder to shoulder. We didn't stay long. Headed south, stopped at the Abbey at Monte Oliveto Maggiore. Funny story: we bought some rather tasteless sandwiches in Asciano and ate them at the picnic tables outside the main entrance to the abbey. Then, when we walked through the portal, the first thing we saw was the most magnificent terrace restaurant! Must remember to read the guidebook.
The drive down from Asciano to the Val D'Orcia is really lovely.
So now we get to Pienza. Thank goodness we were staying outside town. Parking was close to impossible and the traffic was like molasses. Every restaurant was booked solid for the entire weekend, including Sunday lunch and dinner. <b>YOU <i>MUST</i> MAKE ADVANCE DINING RESERVATIONS DURING THIS HOLIDAY!</b> The grocery was open Saturday, not Sunday. Some retail shops were open Sunday but all closed by sundown. Our Sat/Sun dinners were rather forgettable affairs -- because we hadn't planned ahead. We did get lucky for Sunday lunch. Stopped at a restaurant above Sant' Antimo Abbey in the little town of Castelnuovo dell' Abate (right on the curve). This lunch was like being part of a big Italian family: great food, wine, festive atmosphere. As we later drove through the countryside, we were delighted at all the black-clad nonnas out for their passaggio, arm-in-arm with their large families. Keep this in mind: Sunday mid-to-late afternoon is the perfect time for a long leisurely drive through the countryside and little towns.
By Monday morning, the whole region was into off-season mode. We drove back up to San Gim Monday and found it delightfully uncrowded. That night we were finally able to have dinner at Latte di Luna in Pienza. Small shops had now closed throughout the region. Restaurants were mostly deserted. Monticchiello was a ghost town Tuesday except for our exceptional dinner at La Porta.
So there you go. Hard to find information about this holy day. If you find yourself there with hordes of tourists you might want to focus on the Chianti area until they all go home Sunday night. In the Val D'Orcia you could concentrate on the smaller towns and rural areas.
Most importantly, make all your reservations well in advance. Stock up before Sunday. Then, unlike us, all you'll find is <i> very pleasant</i> surprises.
We arrived on All Saints Day 11/1/07 at Florence airport. Our first clue was the stand-still traffic on the highway south (about noon on a Thursday). Who knew there were so many RV's and campers in Italy?! Traffic crawled until we got off the highway and headed to Greve.
We spent Thurs/Fri in the Chianti region: Castellina. Crowds weren't bad. In fact, things were winding down for the season. It was glorious. Fall colors were beyond anything I've ever seen. Imagine Vermont -- with vibrant gold & crimson vineyards around every curve! Chianti is heavily forested and we constantly pinched ourselves as we drove through this endless oil painting, wishing everyone we knew could see it with us. It was Heaven.
[Maybe the lighter crowds in Chianti were due our being there on weekdays. But we did not get the impression they were bracing for a deluge of tourists on the weekend. We stuck to the smaller hill towns, but -- based on our later experience -- I would guess San Gim and Siena were overcrowded on those days.]
Then Saturday morning we headed for southern Tuscany and everything changed.
We wanted to see Siena on the way to our apartment outside Pienza. It took 2 hours just to drive into Siena, then another hour to park. Once inside, crowds were shoulder to shoulder. We didn't stay long. Headed south, stopped at the Abbey at Monte Oliveto Maggiore. Funny story: we bought some rather tasteless sandwiches in Asciano and ate them at the picnic tables outside the main entrance to the abbey. Then, when we walked through the portal, the first thing we saw was the most magnificent terrace restaurant! Must remember to read the guidebook.
The drive down from Asciano to the Val D'Orcia is really lovely.So now we get to Pienza. Thank goodness we were staying outside town. Parking was close to impossible and the traffic was like molasses. Every restaurant was booked solid for the entire weekend, including Sunday lunch and dinner. <b>YOU <i>MUST</i> MAKE ADVANCE DINING RESERVATIONS DURING THIS HOLIDAY!</b> The grocery was open Saturday, not Sunday. Some retail shops were open Sunday but all closed by sundown. Our Sat/Sun dinners were rather forgettable affairs -- because we hadn't planned ahead. We did get lucky for Sunday lunch. Stopped at a restaurant above Sant' Antimo Abbey in the little town of Castelnuovo dell' Abate (right on the curve). This lunch was like being part of a big Italian family: great food, wine, festive atmosphere. As we later drove through the countryside, we were delighted at all the black-clad nonnas out for their passaggio, arm-in-arm with their large families. Keep this in mind: Sunday mid-to-late afternoon is the perfect time for a long leisurely drive through the countryside and little towns.
By Monday morning, the whole region was into off-season mode. We drove back up to San Gim Monday and found it delightfully uncrowded. That night we were finally able to have dinner at Latte di Luna in Pienza. Small shops had now closed throughout the region. Restaurants were mostly deserted. Monticchiello was a ghost town Tuesday except for our exceptional dinner at La Porta.
So there you go. Hard to find information about this holy day. If you find yourself there with hordes of tourists you might want to focus on the Chianti area until they all go home Sunday night. In the Val D'Orcia you could concentrate on the smaller towns and rural areas.
Most importantly, make all your reservations well in advance. Stock up before Sunday. Then, unlike us, all you'll find is <i> very pleasant</i> surprises.
Apr 22nd, 2008, 08:05 AM
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I'm planning a visit to Monte Oliveto Maggiore in June - do I understand correctly that there's an outdoor restaurant within the walls of the abbey? More info, please...
Thanks for posting your experience. We were in Tuscany a week later than you - it was very cold! We should have planned better...
Thanks for posting your experience. We were in Tuscany a week later than you - it was very cold! We should have planned better...
Apr 22nd, 2008, 08:35 AM
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Thanks for the info. We are going to be boarding a cruise in Venice on Nov. 1, 2008. We will be in Venice Oct. 30 & 31. I had heard the city may be crowded. Guess I better be ready for a crowded city.
Apr 22nd, 2008, 08:55 AM
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BarbAnn:
I think you MAY be alright. I believe our problem was the Thursday holiday made for a long weekend.
In your case the holiday doesn't happen until you're leaving. (I do not believe Friday will be a holiday -- anyone know for sure?). Given that, I wouldn't imagine the hordes would arrive until Saturday. You may simply <i>graze</i> the bedlam.
I think you MAY be alright. I believe our problem was the Thursday holiday made for a long weekend.
In your case the holiday doesn't happen until you're leaving. (I do not believe Friday will be a holiday -- anyone know for sure?). Given that, I wouldn't imagine the hordes would arrive until Saturday. You may simply <i>graze</i> the bedlam.
Apr 22nd, 2008, 08:59 AM
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dorkforcemom - If I remember correctly the restaurant is at the top near the parking lot. The abbey is at the bottom of a long driveway. If you need the facilities use those at the restaurant as the toilets next to the abbey gift shop are squatters and they were filthy when I was there.
One thing I bought in the gift shop was the most wonderful lavender cologne or toilet water. It's a true lavender fragrance. I wish I'd bought more.
One thing I bought in the gift shop was the most wonderful lavender cologne or toilet water. It's a true lavender fragrance. I wish I'd bought more.
Apr 22nd, 2008, 09:01 AM
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dfm:
Yes, inside the abbey! Park and cross the drawbridge with the large portal -- just past the picnic tables
.
As you enter you will see patio tables on your left. Beyond that is a huge lanai-like terrace overlooking a wooded valley. Food looked good, too. I don't know about reservations.
The funny thing was: As we ate our hard dry sandwiches at the picnic tables, we laughed at ourselves saying "Don't you know there's some fabulous restaurant nearby that we just don't know about!". It was pretty funny.
BTW, the abbey is nice. The surrounding countryside is awesome!
Yes, inside the abbey! Park and cross the drawbridge with the large portal -- just past the picnic tables
. As you enter you will see patio tables on your left. Beyond that is a huge lanai-like terrace overlooking a wooded valley. Food looked good, too. I don't know about reservations.
The funny thing was: As we ate our hard dry sandwiches at the picnic tables, we laughed at ourselves saying "Don't you know there's some fabulous restaurant nearby that we just don't know about!". It was pretty funny.
BTW, the abbey is nice. The surrounding countryside is awesome!
Apr 22nd, 2008, 09:14 AM
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Looks like things have changed in 3 years. I do remember some sort of work going on but I thought it was repair work. They probably relocated the old restaurant which was good - we ate there. Glad to hear the toilets have been modernized. I don't mind squatters but I took one look and decided there was no way I was using these.
Apr 22nd, 2008, 01:50 PM
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I wanted to get back to this thread so I searched on:
Saints
holiday
Tuscany
Pienza
and
Castellina.
Not a single one brought up this thread. I finally clicked on my name and found it.
Anyone have any idea why it's not "searchable"? Should I repost it? I want it availale for future holiday travellers.
Saints
holiday
Tuscany
Pienza
and
Castellina.
Not a single one brought up this thread. I finally clicked on my name and found it.
Anyone have any idea why it's not "searchable"? Should I repost it? I want it availale for future holiday travellers.
Apr 22nd, 2008, 06:11 PM
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<i> We were in Tuscany a week later than you - it was very cold! We should have planned better...</i>
I want to make sure that NOTHING I've written should discourage anyone's going at this time. The fall colors alone are worth it! Sadly they were fading fast when we left, so you may have missed it. It seems the last week of Oct, first week of Nov would be perfect timing. We chose Nov 1st because of the big savings of our flights.
Yes it got cold, particularly at night. But that's just a matter of clothing! During the day we could still sit outside at sunny tables. We loved the seasonal menu items -- lots of hearty Tuscan soups. Truffles. Baby artichokes. Boar -- one of my favorites. Most restaurants had a fire going.
As for those holiday crowds, I imagine they weren't much worse than the summer high season. It made driving and parking somewhat difficult, but the piazzas felt a little lonely when they all went back home.
I want to make sure that NOTHING I've written should discourage anyone's going at this time. The fall colors alone are worth it! Sadly they were fading fast when we left, so you may have missed it. It seems the last week of Oct, first week of Nov would be perfect timing. We chose Nov 1st because of the big savings of our flights.
Yes it got cold, particularly at night. But that's just a matter of clothing! During the day we could still sit outside at sunny tables. We loved the seasonal menu items -- lots of hearty Tuscan soups. Truffles. Baby artichokes. Boar -- one of my favorites. Most restaurants had a fire going.
As for those holiday crowds, I imagine they weren't much worse than the summer high season. It made driving and parking somewhat difficult, but the piazzas felt a little lonely when they all went back home.
Apr 23rd, 2008, 03:22 AM
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Nice recap--one that refreshes an old travel memory. In 1991, when we were young and inexperienced and making one of our first trips to Europe, we happened to be traveling from Tuscany into Umbria over the November 1 holiday. We were completely winging it, with no hotel reservations anywhere--and to that point we hadn't had any problems. But, that weekend we sure learned the "book ahead" lesson--after a lot of time spent on the phone and spending a night at the only place in our guide books with an opening: the Hit Hotel in Perugia (in English and, when we saw the very expensive cars in the parking lot, we realized that the name did not mean "hit movies"
. One of our funniest (perhaps not at the time) travel experiences. We also experienced the congested roads, parking and restaurants. So, yes--book ahead.
. One of our funniest (perhaps not at the time) travel experiences. We also experienced the congested roads, parking and restaurants. So, yes--book ahead.
Apr 23rd, 2008, 05:18 AM
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We happen to be in Assisi on All Saints Day in 2000. I had been to Assisi the year before with a friend and was coming back with husband and son. I raved about how peaceful the town was. We arrived the day of the holiday and it was shoulder to shoulder with pilgrims. There were large youth groups having a rally outside etc...What a difference a holiday makes on your impression of a town.
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