Tommmo

We're starting in Tavira with a rented car for 3 weeks and Portugal to explore in March. Not interested in seeing it all on a whirlwind trip - a few nights in nice places along the way , ending as we drop the car in Lisbon and then have 5 days to explore there and surrounds like Sintra etc.
While beaches might not be a highlight at that time, it's looking like a coastal route north as far as Coimbra and back down towards Lisbon is a workable plan and any recommended stops along that way would be welcome. Porto and Douro Valley might be too much for this trip and we're not obsessed with wine, just enjoyers. We're 60ish and nightlife and excessive Cathedrals and Plazas might get repetitive - while cheapish rooms and simple hearty food are sufficient . So atmospheric places are always highlights for us.
Hope someone can suggest some nice places to see and stay ......
Thanks

el13207

We did a similar loop last spring, although we began and ended in Spain (Sevilla and Barcelona respectively). We stayed at the pousadas in Tavira, Sagres and outside of Coimbra as well as in Guimaraes in the north (which is truly spectacular). The pousadas are all different, very correct in their service, a little cold because of that fact but we loved having that experience, and found that "golden age" folks like us (we are in our 60's also) got a decent price. The one in Sagres was not well run but had an excellent location. The ones in Tavira and Guimaraes were excellent.

In Evora, which we liked very much, we stayed at a wonderful hotel called ADC or Albergaria do Calvario which I highly recommend. Take the archeological tour run by Mario (they will have the info at the hotel and I think it's also in Rick Steves). We did go north of Coimbra to Guimaraes which ended up being a favorite; from there we went to Porto, just an hour or two away by car.Porto was charming, and I can highly recommend the Douro Guest House, a small highly rated guesthouse right on the Douro River run by a fabulous couple. In Lisbon we loved As Janeles Verdes, a really charming hotel but not right in the center of town (easy to grab the bus or tram into town)- great service and breakfast there, lots of charm.

It's easy to work your way around Portugal by car- they have amazing highways which seemed to be virtually empty (perhaps because they toll you like crazy- but worth it in our opinion). We were very underwhelmed and disappointed by the Algarve. We love beaches and explore them around the world- but the Algarve has been highly built up by or for vacationing Brits, it seems. Tavira is charming and of all the areas in the Algarve we visited it was our favorite place. Of course as you mention, in March beaches are probably not that appealing!

If you drive west from Tavira try to visit the market in Loule- we enjoyed that a lot (we love markets almost as much as we love beaches!). In this same general area we also enjoyed Silves.
Also recommend outside of Evora taking day trips to Evoramonte, Estremoz, Vila Vicosa and Elvas. Go to Tomar enroute to Coimbra- amazing place. Portugal is littered with amazing hill towns and castles, and one could day trip endlessly. We found prices very reasonable but the food gets a little monotonous. Great and inexpensive wines (we did not get through the Douro Valley on this trip but everyone says it's beautiful). If you like crafts, especially pottery, you'll be in heaven. Be prepared for lots of hills- Portugal is a hilly place!
Sorry this is such a random run on of thoughts- but suffice it say you should have a grand few weeks in Portugal. I'll be curious to see what other posters have to add - this is such a great forum!

tower

Tommmo

On your other "surf" thread I included suggestions via photos. Take another look and I think you will get ideas.
You'll see pousadas at Arraiolos(h), very close to Evora, Marvao (highly recommend) at Belmonte and also a recomedation you will see in Obidos, Estalagem do Convento.
Are you bypassing Obidos for any reason? And remnember Nazare' for it's surf as we duscussed in the other thread. Sintra's Tivoli Hotel is both reasonable and well-located downtown.

Tommmo

thanks so much el and tower . this trip we're doing Portugal mainly as we hear great things, but found Feb might still be a bit cool there, so we land first in Casablanca, make our way to Marrakech and do a 6 day desert "voyage" before flying into Seville for around 4 days and bussing into Tavira Portugal and a rented car for a 3 week trip. Hope that explains the variety of questions?
We will drive to Loule if the market is on , Obidos is on our list, also Tomar - many seem to be dismissive of Navare but we'll see.
There seemed to be the suggestion that mature age folk get better prices at hotels - how does this work?
A favourite scenario is to sit on a balcony over a fine view, sip on something nice and have market-bought dinner sizzling on a stove as a contrast to eating rich expensive dinners out. Great when it happens!

tower

There usually is a sizeable rate reduction for seniors at Pousadas throughout Portugal. We enjoyed that advantage by making reservations in advance, For March visits I don't anticipate too many problems getting into the Pousadas (although Easter weekend is the end of March this year. Be aware). I will take a guess....you will love Portugal. Most Pousadas have very costly restos..but there will be plenty of less expensive options in each town. I promise you.

Tommmo

Good to know that, we were avoiding Posadas as they seem pretty expensive at times, or far away from town, or a bit dark and formal.
Wifi seems unavailable sometimes too.
We'll email some and see what happens....

el13207

Obidos is worth a visit but we stayed there and that probably was a night better spent elsewhere- it is very, very small- wandering the few lanes was fun, a spot of shopping worth it but not much else (albeit very pretty). Navarre was just "meh" IMO- we stopped for lunch and a walk along the beach, but not much there either - again, worth an hour or two tops for us.
And if you stay at the pousadas don't eat there- we found them very overpriced and of varying quality.
Btw, if it is warm enough when you are in Tavira, go to the ilha of Tavira if the ferry is running and the restaurants there are open - it was one of the highlights of our time in Tavira and the Algarve. Beautiful beach and amazingly inexpensive seafood restaurants. However, it may be a seasonal option...

Tommmo

I'm amazed at the conflict of opinions re. Obidos and Navarre. We'll take care to pass through but not stay - perhaps that is insurance against using up time that is rather precious. We may be a little different to some in that we prefer ambience of a place rather than grand spectacle - which so often involves hustle and foot soreness.
A stroll through ancient lanes, Roman ruins or fishing villages ending with a balcony,wine and a home cooked meal is enough for a good day. No doubt habits learned through much time in small Greek and Turkish villages.

MyriamC

We stayed in Óbidos for three nights, which was far too long. We did not stay at the Pousada but had dinner there one night. Never met such unfriendly people! And the food wasn't very special either. Expensive, yes!

Because there was so little to see in Óbidos (1/2 day would have been enough for me) we took daytrips to Tomar (through the beautiful landscape of the Estremadura), to Nazaré that we liked a lot, spent some time on the beach in Peniche, etc.

In Coimbra we did stay at the Pousada which was excellent!

We, too, stayed in Albergario do Calvario in Évora. Our best experience in Portugal!

Our final destination for the last week has always been Tavira. We really like it there.
We always travel in the month of June.

@Tommmo
With three weeks you can easily add Porto (drive the Douro Valley!!), Guimarães and Braga to your itinerary. Distances between places aren't usually very long.

Tommmo

Thanks Miriam Looks like Obidos will be a short stop to see the sights and move on to Nazarre - and now Peniche .We like surfing spots and open ocean.
We could maybe reach Porto too , but do we want to do whistlestops to say we've seen it all, or enjoy a leisurely pace? We'll see...

Tommmo

Porto is Portugal's second biggest city - a negative for us - and represents an adding on of extra places to get to in our short time available, so we thought to terminate the route north at maybe Coimbra . That would give us a more leisurely drive to enjoy our route plans and that's important to us.
Can we live without Porto - maybe taste the wine elsewhere?

MyriamC

Portugal as very good wines, especially the Alentejo wines are mostly excellent, but high in alcohol (14/15%).

You can live without Porto but to me it's my favourite city in Portugal. We've been a few times now and we will certainly visit again on our next trip to Portugal.