Advice on Ireland honeymoon

Old Jun 23rd, 2008, 06:52 AM
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Advice on Ireland honeymoon

We are planning our honeymoon in Ireland and would like some advice. We will be in Ireland 8 days/7 nights, flying in and out of Shannon, the first week of September. I have done a lot of research but nothing is compared to the advice of those who have traveled before you!

I will start first by letting you know a bit about us. We are both in our late twenties and live in a major city, so we are very much looking forward to relaxing in the countryside but would still like a bit of nightlife (pubs with music or good conversation, which does not seem hard to come by!) We do not want to have to pack up and drive too much, but would still like to see as much as we can while we're there. We both enjoy outdoor activities so we would like to do things like bike riding, horseback riding, and hiking while we are there.
Here is a rough outline of what I've come up with as far as itinerary goes... I've used the aaroadwatch site to try to get an idea of how reasonable the drives are, and have also used trip reports as guides, but I am still having trouble judging whether I am being too cautious or not. I'm looking for leisurely but I don't want to be going at a snail's pace either.

Arrive Shannon at 8am, pick up rental car and drive to Doolin
Doolin (2 nights)
Doolin – Dingle (3 nights)
Dingle – Killarney (2 nights)
Killarney – Ennis (1 night)
Depart Shannon

What we'd like to see/do:
Doolin - Cliffs of Moher, ferry to Inishmor for biking (though, like another recent poster, I am worried about the reliability of the ferry)
Dingle - Slea Head Drive, a visit to the Dingle dolphin, horseback riding
Killarney – Gap of Dunloe, a visit to Kenmare
Ennis – Burren walking tour

We'd also like a quick visit to the Blarney Stone but I've gotta admit that I have no idea where that is in relation to the place I’ve mentioned.
I think the fiancé would like to visit a castle, though it is not absolutely necessary... any suggestions?
Also, could I add Galway to this list and take out a night somewhere? (Also, is it worth it? What are the best things to see and do in Galway?)

Any advice on changes that we could make, other things to do/see (I know I am leaving out A LOT) would be great! We don't seem to have any trouble finding great B&Bs but if you have any specific ones to recommend, that'd also be appreciated. (Have we taken too long to make reservations? Will there still be availability at most B&Bs in the first week of September?)
Plus, since this is a honeymoon, any recommendations on romantic spots would be good too.

Thanks in advance, I look forward to reading your replies!
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Old Jun 23rd, 2008, 08:55 AM
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Hi serpentskirt:

I think your itinerary is quite reasonable and I applaud you not trying to do too much. Some thoughts:

The ferries from Doolin are certainly not a guarantee, but you can play it by ear. I've stayed at the Atlantic View B&B (Guesthouse) in Doolin and the owners also own Doolin Ferries so you could get a pretty good idea on whether the boats are going. http://www.doolinferries.com/atlanticview.html

It's a nice place, and many of the rooms look out on the Cliffs. Also, the Sea View House gets great press, but tends to book up quickly. (http://www.seaviewhouse.eu/) It sits right above venerable Gus O'Connor's pub which because of it's name, is probably the most tourist filled of the 3.

If the boats aren't running, you could make the roughly 3 hour trip to catch a plane from Inverin west of Galway, or you could just tour more of Clare which is lovely.

From Doolin to Dingle, catch the ferry at Killimer. My favorite B&B in Ireland is the Shores (http://www.theshorescountryhouse.com/) on the north side of the peninsula. Despite the drive over the pass, it's a wonderful place to stay and I've never regretted it. Brandon Point is just up the road and a hike to the top is really quite spectacular. The B&B also sits across the road from the longest beach in Ireland.

I prefer Kenmare to Killarney as a base. Though not all agree, Killarney sold it's soul to tourism over a century ago and I never get a great feeling there. I've never stayed, but even in the off season, walking the streets makes me feel a bit blank. Kenmare is a nice little village with lots of dining and B&B options. Neither are very cheap. In Kenmare I've stayed at Waters Edge (http://www.kenmare.eu/watersedge/) and Shaminir (http://www.shaminir.com/) both south of the river. Waters Edge is closer (walking distance to town) and Shaminir is more upscale with a spectacular view. Both have wonderful hosts. Ive also stayed at Tahilla Cove which is a more upscale guesthouse (http://www.sneem.net/tahillacove) which is probably further than the other two from Kenmare. It sits on it's own cove and is beautiful and relaxing. The price is guesthouse like, not B&B like so, more expensive.

I've stayed outside of Ennis (perhaps you can tell I don't stay in the towns very much) at the Lakeside Country Lodge. (http://www.lakeside.ie/) Again, the setting is beautiful and a short drive into Ennis.

Dingle, Doolin and Ennis will have great trad Irish music. Killarney and Kenmare will cater more to the tourist trade, Though I caught a great session on a tuesday night in Kenmare this January.

You are not staying anywhere near Blarney Castle and a quick visit may be out of the question at that time of year. Furthermore, it's Ireland's worst tourist trap and there are much better castles. The lines to kiss that vile rock can be very long and truly not worth the wait. The gardens are nice though, but again, not worth the drive. When you land in Shannon, Bunratty Castle is about 10-15 minutes away and would be a good way to start the trip. I'm not a big fan of the folk park (others are) but I think the castle is nicely restored. Since you will be there early (I think they open at 10) get there at opening and there won't be much in the way of crowds. That will pick up by midday and the park and castle will be very crowded. Dunguaire Castle in Kinvara, just north of the burren is also well done and in a beautiful location, particularly when the tide is in. Both do banquets, I prefer Dunguaire because it is more intimate. Both of those castles would be much better choices than Blarney.

As far as adding Galway, yes you could, but I really like the pace of your trip. If I did anything, I'd drop Doolin, add Galway and catch the plane to the Arans. You can find great music in Galway also.

When using roadwatch or viamichelin, look at the number of miles and divide by 35MPH. Most of the roads that you will be on are not reall high speed so I think that standard formula will work well for you.

I hope this helps. Ask away.

Bill
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Old Jun 23rd, 2008, 12:11 PM
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Bill,
Thanks so much for all of the information, it's extremely helpful!

We will most certainly count out Blarney now, we really only wanted to stop by if it wasn't too far out of the way.

I think we will also count out Galway... it seems like a college town, which isn't really what we're looking for on a honeymoon.

The Atlantic View in Doolin seems great (looking at the website, the contact person has the exact same first and last names as my mother, which has to be a good sign!) especially since they run the ferries to the islands.
What are the chances that we would get a ferry in the morning but not be able to return back later that day? I think I am more scared of being stranded on the island than I am of not being able to go at all. I would be disappointed, of course, but you can't control the weather. It would be worse to get stuck though... will they not make a trip out if they think they might have to cancel the return trip?

I have The Shores on my list of Dingle B&Bs. I also was considering Castlewood House and Greenmount House, do you know anyone who has stayed at either of these? They are both within walking distance of town, which I think we might prefer.
(Thanks for recommending the hike up Brandon Point, that seems like something we'd really enjoy but I haven't read anything about it until now.)

I couldn't decide between Killarney and Kenmare for the longest time... now that you mention how touristy Killarney is I may be giving Kenmare a second look. Those are very good B&B options you mentioned for Kenmare, we would probably lean more towards Waters Edge since it is closer to town. Are the restaurants/pubs in Kenmare more expensive in comparison to Killarney? Kenmare seems a bit more upscale in general, and I'd hate to break the bank just getting a bite to eat.
I'd like to visit Killarney National Park (Muckross House, etc) and definitely the Gap of Dunloe, so does it make more sense for us to just stay in Killarney or do you think it's worth the drive from Kenmare? Is there anything in Kenmare specifically to do and see? I find it more difficult to find information about Kenmare, probably because it is not as touristy.

I'm sure I'll come back with more questions later, but I'll stop now before my head starts spinning. I am really excited about this trip!
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Old Jun 23rd, 2008, 12:36 PM
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Hi serpentskirt - Bill has given you some excellent advice, but I'll throw in a couple of things. I stayed in Killarney last summer, basically because it was closer to the airport (we flew into Kerry from London partway through our trip) and because we wanted to do the Gap of Dunloe tour. Our tour left at about 9:30 or 10:00 from the Killarney tourism office, so if you want to do the tour and stay in Kenmare, you'd have to get a relatively early start to the day. However, staying in Kenmare may be worth it.

We had trouble finding decent food in Killarney within our budget, but then again our budget was very tight. We visited Kenmare one morning and ate lunch at Jam, which was a great cafe and also has a Killarney location. However, I believe they're only open until early afternoon. (Their web site is jam.ie, but isn't very helpful at the moment.) Kenmare did seem like a nicer town, and I'm sure those who have stayed there will give you some great advice.

And congratulations!
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Old Jun 23rd, 2008, 12:51 PM
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Congratuations. You might consider deleting Killarney, adding a day to Doolin (with arrival on the first day and on to Dingle the third day you really only get one full day there) and staying your last two nights in the cute town of Kinsale (great history, architecture and restaurants!) or night or two in one of the castle hotels anywhere toward Shannon. www.tripadvisor.com or www.tablethotels.com might give you some ideas.
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Old Jun 23rd, 2008, 02:08 PM
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Hi serpent:

As long as you can see the weather report, you should know what will happen. If you talk to the folks at Doolin Ferries they will have a better idea. My understanding is that wind is the biggest issue. The harbor at Inisheer is the hardest to deal with. I haven't heard of folks getting stranded on a day trip though I suppose it could happen.

I don't know much about Castlewwod. Greenmount gets high reviews also. Still, the Shores has always been the favorite. She also does evening meals which are fantastic.

Kenmare and Killarney are probably pretty similar in prices and the differences vertainly wouldn't be enough to pick Killarney over Kenmare. You can find reasonably priced food in pubs in Kenmare also. Kenmare has always been a favorite.

When I did the Dunloe tour, we were staying at Tahilla Cove and made it without much trouble. It's about 45 minutes from Kenmare to Killarney. You don't actually have to go into the town center to catch the bus. There is a pick up at the Old Weir Lodge on N71 in Killarney as you come into town. I definitely think it's worth the drive, an it's a beautiful drive.

There are tons of things to do in the Kenmare area. Within about a 3 minute walk from the town center is a stone circle. Kenmare sits right between the Beara and Iveragh peninsulas so that is an option. If the weather is good and you can get an early start, a boat trip out to the Skillig Rocks is one of the most impressive trips you can make in Ireland. Closer to town, the Seafari - despite it's rather goofy name, is considered a great tour from Kenmare pier. Gougane Barra is not too far and .... well I could go on forever.

The village of Doolin itself has very little to offer, but the scenery around it is quite nice. The notion of adding Kinsale sounds nice, but gain, you have a nice pace and I wouldn't want to spend my last night in Kinsale and have to high tail it to the airport from there. Ennis is a great final night choice and the town center, which is missed by everyone who just drives through, it great. Kinsale and Dingle have a lot in common in that they are both fishing villages and a similar feel. I wouldn't rule out Kinsale on a subsequent visit, your pace is really good as you have it.

The big castle hotel near Shannon is Dromoland and it's lovely but quite pricey. If you had to rush to the airport in the morning, I don't think it would be ideal. I would rather just enjoy the grounds for a while.

Keep planning!

Bill
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Old Jun 23rd, 2008, 02:29 PM
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Hi Serpentskirt,
We stayed at Castlewood House in Dingle in April - it was the best accommodation we had in Ireland, and was also some of the most reasonable. The establishment is quite new and beautifully furnished. The hosts are discreet but very friendly and helpful (a young couple), and the breakfasts are superb! Location was very convenient but quiet!Somewhere I would definately stay again! (Ours was not a honeymoon, but a 20 year anniversary trip!) If you search for PRLCH you will find our trip report, including Castlewood House and other accommodation options.
Hope you have a great trip!
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Old Jun 23rd, 2008, 04:25 PM
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We liked both the Atlantic View House and the Greenmount House a lot. They both had great hostesses, great views, great food, and nice rooms.

If you have a chance in Doolin, eat dinner at Ballinalacken Castle. In Dingle we enjoyed the Chart House, but you do need to book in advance.

el
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Old Jun 23rd, 2008, 05:18 PM
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Someone mentioned Dunquaire Castle near Kinvara. I would recommend it also. It has a great banquet and program. We stayed near there at a b&b and the owner said that the lady that is in charge of the banquet and program said she wanted to have a good meal and entertainment so that people who come there do not think it is just a tourist trap type of thing.
Kinvara has some good pubs.

We did climb 3 flights of stone stairs to see the Blarney Stone - we weren't about to kiss it as the story goes that the boys of the village sneak up there and wet the stone - so to speak. The Rock of Cashel was much more interesting.

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Old Jun 23rd, 2008, 09:50 PM
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serpentskirt,

I like your itinerary, slow enough to enjoy your stay. I liked Greenmount House in Dingle very much but have heard good things about Castlewood House. In Kenmare I stayed at The Lodge and it's a quick 5 minute walk to the town center. Other good guesthouses in town I've heard good things about are Shelburne Lodge and Sallyport House.

Best Wishes for your wedding and trip, Joan
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Old Jun 24th, 2008, 06:27 AM
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Thank you all for the great advice and recommendations, I really appreciate it!

I think we will in fact stay in Kenmare instead of Killarney.
How long would you say the drive from Kenmare to Ennis is? I'm estimating about 3 and a half hours, is that about right?
So if we got up early the second day in Kenmare to go to the Gap of Dunloe, then drove from there we should still have plenty of day left to explore Ennis once we get there.

As far as Dunguaire Castle goes, it makes the most sense to visit that while we are based in Doolin, correct?
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Old Jun 24th, 2008, 08:36 AM
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If you take the Gap of Dunloe tour (which I would recommend), it's a very big chunk of your day. I believe we left Killarney around 9:30 or 10 and returned around 3:30 or 4:00. They drop you off at Kate Kearney's Cottage, you walk or take a jaunting cart through the Gap (I think it's about 7 miles), and then boats pick you up and take you across the lake to Ross Castle. So it would be a very long day, for me, to do the Gap of Dunloe and drive to Ennis.
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Old Jun 24th, 2008, 10:41 AM
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I met some people recently who were raving about Packie's Restaurant in Kenmare. Here is a link to the website
http://www.kenmarerestaurants.com/packies/
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Old Jun 24th, 2008, 10:56 AM
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oh, I wasn't thinking that the tour was that long. If that's the case then it'd definitely be more reasonable to leave Dingle early in the morning and go right to Killarney for the tour, then head over to Kenmare after.

I really wish we were able to take a longer trip, it's hard to make time for everything. But that gives us many reasons to keep going back to Ireland for our anniversary trips!
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Old Jun 24th, 2008, 11:17 AM
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Just as a word of warning, it took us close to two hours to get from Killarney to Dingle. (And I'm pretty sure we only got lost once!) I may have missed something, but could you do the Gap tour on your second day in Kenmare? Maybe drive from Dingle, seeing some of the other sights of the national park and part of the Ring of Kerry on your way. Then the next morning, drive only from Kenmare to Killarney. Plus that way you could stop by the Killarney tourist office en route and book the tour the day before.
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Old Jun 24th, 2008, 11:51 AM
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I just realized that I didn't write the itinerary correctly at all... I have completely confused myself in the process. It is 8 days/7 nights but I wrote it out as if it is 9 days/8 nights. I was trying to give myself an extra day. oh my.

So I need to shave off a day of what I wrote in the original post. I suppose taking it off of Dingle makes the most sense, since that would balance everything out pretty well.

Let me write it out properly (with days, since that will keep me in line)...
Tuesday - arrive Shannon 8am, drive to Doolin
Wednesday - Doolin
Thursday - drive from Doolin to Dingle
Friday - Dingle
Saturday - drive from Dingle to Kenmare
Sunday - Kenmare
Monday - drive from Kenmare to Ennis
Tuesday - Ennis, depart Shannon later that day

okay, that's the way it should be!

So, yes, we could do the Gap tour on the second day in Kenmare.

(I just needed to talk that out amongst myself, ignore me.)
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Old Jun 24th, 2008, 12:09 PM
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Happens to the best of us - good thing you caught it now! Our trip was actually very similar, except reverse, so my trip report might give you some ideas:

www.tinyurl.com/2arksj

(scroll down - we did a week in the UK first)
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Old Jun 24th, 2008, 12:23 PM
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Thanks for the link! I love reading trip reports... I have had a much easier time planning this trip by reading reports on here, as opposed to using a guide book.
I see you spent a few hours in Philly during your layover on that trip, which is where we live. I'm glad you enjoyed your cheesesteak
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