add Pitigliano to your itinerary
#1
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add Pitigliano to your itinerary
There is a hill town north of Rome, near Lago Bolsena, called Pitigliano that is wonderful. People interested in Jewish history will want to see the old restored synagogue and matzoh bakery, taste the modern versions on Jewish bread in the "ghetto bread shop", but will not want to know that the Nazis killed all but the 3 remaining Jews in what was once called "little Jerusalem". But they still make and sell a kosher local wine!<BR>Everyone will love the tourist-free, car-free streets of the little medieval city, with views of Etrustcan tombs and ancient footpaths linking Etrustcan sites. One hotel, Giusti (?) at the entry to the upper city has inexpensive simple but clean rooms with unbelievable views.
#4
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We only stayed two days and one night in Pitigliano, but suggest you stay more if you like to walk. There are paths in clefts (I don't know how else to describe it) that connect one Etruscan site to another, some say made for transportation purposes, others say to connect spiritual sites, but since we know little abou the Etruscans, we may never know. We stayed in the one and only hotel, the Guastini, no reservations ever needed, with an incredible view over the valley and a tomb; they have a good restaurant too. There are two restaurants in Pitigliano listed at slowfood.com, but they were closed for vacation. We ate at an outdoor cafe in front of one of the churches,just where the two streets diverge. We also ate at a restaurant you only see a sign for on the square where the tourist office is; they have a great outdoor patio, a great view, and a musty but magic cavern indoor room. We chatted up the owner and he sent his daughter to show us the basement...Etruscan water works and secret back exit. The tourist office has info on walks and what to see; Pitigliano is a very small town so besides the Jewish places and the Etruscan places, you go there to soak up the atmosphere. I have no idea how long it takes to drive place to place; longer than the map would lead you to believe. Near Pitigliano are outdoor hot springs, Saturnalia or something like that, and few hundred year old gardens with monster faces (these are in guidebooks) as well as a formal garden and villa near Lago Bolsena.<BR>Steve "Back Door" also recomends a town near Lago Bolsena but we didn't go. Easiest way is via Orvieto autostrada exit.
#5
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Dean<BR>We also visited Pitigliano this past June. It was wonderful and one of our favorite towns to explore. We stayed in Centeno, in Lazio just a step away from the Tuscan border. It was a great location for visiting towns in Lazio, Umbria and southern Tuscany. The day we visited Pitigliano we also stopped in Sorano and Sovana. As far as other towns we visited in that locale...Todi, Orvieto, Montefiascone, Bolsena, Montalcino, San Quirico d'Orcia and Bagno Vignoni. <BR>Hope you have a great trip.
#6
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So glad you are discovering my area-beyond Rome but before Tuscany. In my recent book "Affreschi-Exploring Etruria" there are 42 travel essays and 16 pages of photos that explain and show the area. Lots of info also on www.elegantetruria.com
#7
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Beside the Thermal baths in Saturnia Carol describes, in the neraby area I strongly suggest also a visit to Santa Fiora, which can be easily reached by car and is really lovely (Ok, some day I will find the time to put the photos I took in Santa Fiora o the web!).
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travelfan1
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May 22nd, 2008 01:24 PM