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-   -   Abruzzo - Chieti Discussion (https://www.fodors.com/community/europe/abruzzo-chieti-discussion-749503/)

MichaelT Nov 19th, 2007 01:44 PM

Abruzzo - Chieti Discussion
 
I rarely see posts on here about the Abruzzo region of Italy and the area surrounding the province of Chieti so I thought I'd start one and see if there are other travelers familiar with the area.

I'm leaving in a couple of weeks for my 4th trip to the area working on detailed research of my family history. My focus on this trip will be in the Church of S. Camillo in the town of Bucchianico. It will mark the 2nd time I have visited this particular church to review its books which date back to the 1500s.

While I've now made a few trips to the Chieti and surrounding areas and have my own set of hotels/restaurants/sights, I'm curious to hear from others that have visited the regional area to hear about their thoughts and suggestions.

Grazie!

pjdscott Nov 21st, 2007 05:35 AM

We worked in Abruzzo in 2004 and had a fantastic time. Not only are there so many treasures (as you mentioned), but the scenery is wonderful. We particularly enjoyed the medieval town of Sulmona, birthplace of Ovid.

Rocca di Mezzo in the Appenines was also spectacular. We hope to return again soon - a picture of Rocca here:

http://www.hidden-italy.com/images/_title_image.html

Have a wonderful trip.

Meredith Nov 21st, 2007 07:28 AM

I have not yet had the opportunity to visit Abruzzo, but I plan to do so eventually to connect with my roots. My grandmother's family comes from a town called Castel Frentano in the province of Chieti. Do either of you know anything about this town?

I look forward to hearing more thoughts from those who have visited Abruzzo!

LJ Nov 21st, 2007 08:02 AM

We lived in the Abruzzo, in Lanciano,for some time and absolutely loved the area. City sights include the Dioclesian bridge and some wonderful mediaval gates. And if you're are going to be there at Christmas time there is a wonderful arts and crafts fair.

Lanciano has a fine reputation for use of the local ingredients in cooking (great restaurant, Mastroguerato and for terrific pizza on the highway into town, Lo Scudo).

I agree that Sulmona is marvelous and has a particularly good market day (don't miss the porchetta). The sugared almonds (confetti) from there are world famous.

Scanno is another interesting town to visit up in the mountains, great skiing and a good restaurant there is Sca'Bello. If Mancini the jeweler is still in business, he is as good a guide to the woven gold jewellery of the area as anyone. This is the town where the women can still be seen in the garb of 10 centuries ago.

I could go on, but I will let others rave. My DH and I will return there next year so please share YOUR finds.



MichaelT Nov 27th, 2007 06:35 AM

Meredith,

I can't say that I've been to it but I've been close to it. If you look on this site, they detail a lot of the smaller towns in Abruzzo - www.abruzzo2000.com

There is also a section of the site dedicated to people researching family names in each city so perhaps you can make a connection there.

The area is made up of rolling hills and on the top of nearly every hill, there are small towns or villages (comunes). The city of Chieti is one of the larger in the area - population 56,000. Castel Frentano (population 3,900) sounds similar to Bucchianico where I'll be next week (population 4,800).

The whole area is very removed from tourists and of all of my trips to Italy, this whole area has always felt the most authentic to me personally.

Like LJ said, I could go on but will also let others rave.


mkf99 Nov 27th, 2007 09:01 AM

I have been wanting to visit Abruzzo but haven't been able to find a wealth of information. My grandfather's family came from Chieti and Lanciano but I would really like to do some research and learn more before heading over there. Can anyone tell me if the region is well served by public transportation? Is it best to fly into Rome and then take a train? Or is a car necessary to get around? I have visited Rome and Campagna several times by train/bus and so am very familiar with the system. I appreciate any information anyone can provide.

MichaelT Nov 27th, 2007 09:33 AM

mkf99,

My experience has been to take a train from Rome and then rent a car locally.

While I've spent more time in the Chieti area, I've rented the cars in Pescara. To be honest, I've never looked into renting locally in Chieti but i would guess that you can.

From Rome, depending on the train you take, it's anywhere from a 3.25 - 4.5 hr. train ride. Trains leave from Tiburtina more frequently but there is a 1-2 times daily train that originates in Roma Termini as well. You can also easily connect from Termini to Tiburtina to catch a train. All are 2nd class and the 1-way fare currently is about $40 Euros.

To move around to all of the various cities in the area, a car is much better to have as you can cover a lot of ground easily.

As far as hotels, I prefer to stay in Chieti but there are also places in Pescara as well as many of the smaller cities. Nothing you find will be more than a 3 star but accordingly, it shouldn't cost you more than $75 - $100 Euros per night in one of the "nicer" hotels.

I'll post a trip report after I return from my trip to the area next week with anything new I learn.

Grandma Nov 27th, 2007 02:56 PM

It's over 25 years ago, but on my first trip to Italy we drove from Rome thru the Abruzzi on our way to some place I've forgotten. But I've never forgotten the brief trip thru that region. NOW... I've recently discovered pasta from Abruzzo at my gourmet store. Bye,bye Ronzoni -:)

MichaelT Nov 27th, 2007 04:20 PM

Grandma,

The pasta is the main thing I remember about Sunday dinners at my grandparent's house. They both emigrated from Abruzzo and made their pasta by hand using ingredients from the Abruzzo area that was sold at a local store in NY. There is something about the wheat they grow in the region that makes it taste different than most other places in Italy.

My mouth is watering thinking that I’ll be enjoying it in a week!

MichaelT Nov 27th, 2007 04:25 PM

mkf99,

A correction on my last post to you. A one way fare from Roma Tiburtina to Chieti is only 12 Euros!

Meredith Nov 28th, 2007 05:58 AM

Thanks, MichaelT - I have seen that website before, but it has been a while. I enjoyed looking through it again, reading about Castel Frentano, and spotting our family name a few times!

And about the homemade pasta, my grandmother did the same thing. Oh man, the thought of her sauce, her noodles, and her homemade bread bring tears to my eyes and a grumble of hunger to my stomach! Unfortunately, she passed away this summer, but I will never forget the wonderful homemade dishes that came from her kitchen!!

mkf99 Nov 28th, 2007 08:20 AM

MichaelT,

Thanks for the information! I look forward to your post when you return.

Grandma Nov 28th, 2007 03:16 PM

Well... I must admit I was eating a little better than Ronzoni -:) However, the Abruzzo pasta is reallly different from anything else. I must go cook some now!

Happy travels, MichaelT.

MichaelT Dec 11th, 2007 01:47 PM

Just back from an incredible trip to Abruzzo and Roma. While a more detailed trip report will follow, here are the highlights of what it will include:

Days 1-2 - DFW-Rome, a train ride (with many stops) through Abruzzo to Chieti
Day 3 - Researching my family history in the Church in Bucchianico, a visit to Fara Filorium Petri
Day 4 - Continuing the research in Casalincontrada, a free afternoon in Chieti
Day 5 - a train back through Abruzzo to Roma
Day 6 - Being in Rome on a holy day and seeing the Pope
Day 7 - the trip home

In the meantime, here is a link to selected photos from the trip - http://picasaweb.google.com/Trovalli...ey=gpPcHOauWQE

Nikki Dec 11th, 2007 03:31 PM

Nice photos, thanks.

Luhimari Dec 11th, 2007 04:38 PM

ttt

LJ Dec 12th, 2007 05:50 AM

Mike,
Your pictures brought back so many moving memories for me of our time in Lnciano, Chieti and environs. I really hope that others who are thinking about a trip to the Abruzzo will happen upon this thread and be inspired. It is an overlooked and amazing area of Italy and your photos of it (and of Rome-loved the umbrellas from above!) do it justice. Thank you and tanti auguri!
An ex-Lancianese

ml15 Mar 10th, 2009 11:13 AM

Great photos. I will also be traveling to Italy this summer for three weeks, on a family roots quest. My mothers family is from Vacri, in Chieti and Montecielo near Rome. My fathers side is from Sulmono and Caulonia, Calabria. I have been to Italy many times, but have never been to Abruzzo or Calabria.
Not sure how many days to stay in each area, whether to base in one town in each area and do side trips???
What are the beaches like in Abruzzo. Stayed in Rimini years ago and didn't care for Adriatic beaches.
Thanks

LJ Mar 10th, 2009 11:38 AM

I hate to disappoint but Abruzzo beaches are Adriatic beaches, there is no way around that. The seaside resorts of the Abruzzo are not like North American (Miami) or West Indian islands. But neither is, for example, Vasto or Vieste or San Vito like Rimini or like eachother. Personally, we really enjoyed the days we spent by the Adriatic, though unlike Cayman or Turks/Caicos experiences. You rent your space and people watch and eat...what's not to love?

Our initial family trip to Calabria and the Abruzzo was for 2 weeks with 3 days in each of those locales and the rest split between Puglia and Rome (more family!). But later we spent an entire year in the Abruzzo and didn't run out of side trips.

Sulmona is a wonderful destination. As side-trips, think about Chieti, Scanno and Lanciano.But trust me you won't be bored.

Calabria is less well-known to me...you might want to post again with that in the title.

ml15 Mar 10th, 2009 01:30 PM

Thanks so much. I think that I will base in Sulmona. Maybe I'll stop in Positano for a few days on my way to Calabria, to get my beach fix. Do you have any suggestions for hill (mountain) towns in Abruzzo that are good for hiking/walking?

kismetchimera Mar 10th, 2009 02:15 PM

Abruzzo is still off the tourists paths and I hope it stay that way.

Take a look at what is happening in Tuscany and now Umbria is also the darling of many tourists.
.
Lets keep this region Undiscovered before is ruined.
My brother is living in Pescara, a new modern city..

You will not find anything old or historic in that place because being a Port City ,it was destroyed by the Allied Bombs in WWII.
The food in that region is just Super.

ekscrunchy Mar 10th, 2009 02:17 PM

More info on Abruzzo here:


http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...earby-town.cfm

petertherabbitt Mar 10th, 2009 03:11 PM

a great small tone is ortona dei marsi. there is 1 restaurant in towm and its fabulous can hike up the steep pastures on upmountain side of town

LBev769375 Mar 10th, 2009 06:55 PM

Great photos of the countryside and hill top towns MichaelT. Thanks for posting. The Abruzzo region is not to be missed if for no other reason the sheer beauty of the country, as you photos attest. We visited L'Aquila and the Montereale area for five days and while we were not able to visit the Gran Sasso mountains and park area, the views of snow capped peaks from the city streets of L'Aquila were beautiful, especially in the cool crisp morning air of an early October morning.

LJ Mar 11th, 2009 07:56 AM

We enjoyed the hiking/walking trails (degree of difficulty based on what trail you select) in both Pennapiedimonte and Bocca de Valle. If you are in the area, check out Guardigrele as well, a charming small town where many of the the original pizzelle makers came from (that waffly-wafer cookie/biscuit that all Italian children love).


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