About Carcassone..
 

I have a well-traveled friend who says to skip this area. However, I only listen to Fodorites.

Anyway, coming from the Dordogne, any suggestions as to the route to Carcossone, and where to stay there. It sounds a lot like Mont St.Michel?..

Thanks again for all the help.

We stayed at Hotel Donjon, inside La Cité and liked it very much.
Near there is a restaurant with very good cassoulet.
Enjoy your trip.

It isn't much at all like le Mont-St-Michel. MSM is an abbey on an island; Carcassonne is an entire walled city, and one that should not be missed, IMO, although it is true that it is really crowded in summer during the day (in this way it's like le MSM), and very beautiful when everyone's gone home.

My favorite route to Carcassonne from the Dordogne is on the back roads a good deal of the way: Take the A20 to Cahors (well worth a stop, IMO, though I know Stu doesn't think too highly of it); keep on the A20 a bit and turn off at Caussade. Drive to Albi via Gaillac (very well-known wine town - not terribly pretty, but a nice feel to it). Spend the night in ALbi or at least take a good look around - there are plenty of attractions, including the "breadbox" cathedral, the Toulouse Lautrec Museum, and some nice pedestrian shopping streets.

Then you have a choice - you can take the N12 down through Castres and Mazamet (I don't like this route) or you can go back to Gaillac and take the D roads through Graulhet, Puylaurens, Revel, and Salissac. You can even make a side tour to Castelnaudary, "birthplace" of cassoulet:)

Thanks for the hotel recommendation libanio...and for the route there St. Cirq.

I adore cassoulet. When I went to Paris 25 years ago (last overseas trip), I had cassoulet and nearly swooned at the restaurant. I never forgot it.

I dread when I have to combine all these notes into a coherent file..but the information is wonderful.

Hi Lois, We went to Carcassonne during the day last summer. (July) It was something I am glad I did not miss. It was crowded, but not so much so that it made it unbearable. We walked around for several hours and then were on our way to Albi for the evening.

I just read about the hotel Donjon you recommended.Seems they say you should park outside the city???...well when should we arrive do you think?..I guess we would leave luggage in the car if we were to park outside the walls?????

Any info on this would be most helpful. At MSM we will leave luggage in the car and just take a day pack. Is this different?

another hotel recommendation, this time for a câteau-hotel near mazamet: the château de montlédier, set in beautiful grounds, excellent for stretching your legs after a long car drive. the rooms are of varying sizes and shapes, all individually and beautifully decorated. there's a small restaurant next to the wine cave in the basement; in good weather breakfast is served in the large courtyard.

Aaaargh! No map to find this. Picking up a good French map tonight. I have green michelins but not for Langudoc area.

Can you tell me where this is?...would it also be good for when we leave Carcassone?..

loisco - I see you're coming from Mont St Michel - and you're interested in Carcassone.

Well, before leaving Brittany, I suggest (urge) that you visit St Malo!

Tuck yes we will see St. Malo.

I looked up Hotel Donjon ...confusing. They offer:

rooms with private shower

OR

room with private bathroom

I am confused...

That means a choice of a bathtub or a shower.

Doesn't first one mean that the wc is down the hall?

I also thought Carcassone would be like MSM, which I hated as soon as the merchants littered the picturesque streets of MSM with postcard & trinket stands, & the masses of day trippers arrived. We went to Carcassone in mid June last year & I was wrong. Not nearly as bad - I really enjoyed it.

Here is a way to get there from the Dordogne. I got most of this drive from StCirq several years ago, so it will follow her itinerary closely, except I've added a little more detail. We recently vacationed for 2 weeks in this area, so we explored these routes quite a bit.

The stars (**) are the rating given by Michelin. If I think it's better, I will add a plus +.

Take the A20 South. Drive through Caussade and then get on the D916 heading east toward Caylus. Just past Stepfonds, head towards St Antonin Noble Val on the D5. Shortly, when the road starts to curve a little, you will get a fantastic view of St Antonin – get the camera ready.

Proceed into St Antonin Noble Val*, but before you get to the center of town, look for a turn to the right, which will take you counter-clockwise around town. At the bridge, turn right & go over the Aveyron River and turn right & go 20 yards or so until you see a large park downhill on your right. There are several benches in this park. We’ve spent many hours sitting on these benches, admiring the view, devouring a pizza we bought at the fabulous Sunday morning market, and writing in my wife’s diary.

From St Antonin, take the D115 west following the Aveyron River. Just a few Ks after St Antonin, take the smaller D115B to the left, and follow it for a few Ks until it merges with the D115 again. About 1 K further, take the bridge across the river to the right, and get on the D173 to Penne.

There is a fantastic view of Penne+ as you approach this village with large chateau ruins sticking up in the sky. You can get a great view from the road next to the tourist office and across from a restaurant with outside tables (lunch?). This restaurant was very crowded when we were there on a Sunday afternoon (when the French take their main meal of the day). Penne is one of The Most Beautiful Villages of France (TMBVoF). Follow the D9 south a little and then then D1 west a few Ks and shortly you will come to Bruniquel*, another TMBVoF. Explore this town quite thoroughly. This is a real pleasant town.

Leave Bruniquel on the D964 heading south. This is a very beautiful drive and you will visit one of our three favorite bastide towns along the way. You will pass the town of Larroque. We have driven this route several times & always wanted to stop here, but we never did – it seemed like such a cute spot. Stop & visit Castelnau de Montmiral+ (another TMBVoF). Like I said – this is one of our three favorite bastide towns.

Leave Castelnau visit the beautiful city of Albi***. This is one of our favorite small cities in France. Get out the Michelin Red Guide to find your way into central Albi. Look for the underground parking lot (it’s huge), and park there. Emerge from the lot, and walk north to take some pictures of Albi from the bridge. Albi buttons up tight at lunchtime, except (June through Sept) for the fabulous Cathedral Ste Cecile***. My Green Guide says that the Toulouse Lautrec Museum** is closed for lunch (except July & Aug), but I’m not sure that’s the case. Perhaps call ahead to confirm opening times. Toulouse Lautrec is one of the few artists that I like, and I really enjoyed this museum. It’s located in the Palais de la Berbie*+. Don’t miss the gardens outside the palais. Follow the walking itinerary described in the Michelin Green Guide. This is an interesting city. There are informational plaques (also in English) affixed to the outsides of buildings. They describe the architecture & related historically significant events. Many of the old buildings had fallen into disrepair and had been slated for demolition in the 1970s. Instead, the City had refurbished them & they now provide “social” (low-income?) housing.

Leave Albi by taking the A68 freeway west & get off the freeway at exit #9 & take the pretty D964 south through Graulhet, and then the pretty D84 south through Puylaurens and on to Revel. From Revel take the D662 west & the D624 south to Castelnaudry and on to Carcassone.

Stu Dudley

I always wanted to go to Carcossone. It was spectacular from a distance. While I don't regret going, I feel it was better as an image from the distance. We also stayed at Donjon, which was fine (although it was very hot and the air conditioning didn't work very well).
I somehow found it one of the tackiest and most tourist oriented cities anywhere in France. We managed, but it somehow turned me off. And realize that I LOVE Disneyland, so it isn't just about being touristy. This place just didn't do it for me.

Regarding the Donjon. We parked outside the walls and they met us and picked up us and our luggage. We gave them the keys and in the morning they went to get our car and brought it to us at the hotel. As I recall, when we got to Carcassone, there was a man with a cell phone who called them to come meet us.

Carcassone- a three star gem. Perfect medieval fortified town - perfect because the Rockefeller Foundation funded its complete reconstruction from rubble around the 20s or 30s - thus, though an Ersatz medieval wonder it's perhpas Europe's best example of an old citadel town. Fantastic! There is the lower Carcassone, a typical French regional town with little of iterest to make one linger and then the upper Cite - try to stay in the cite as at night the ice cream cone lapping photo snapping day tripping hoardes have gone and the town takes on a eerie atmosphere. There is a youth hostel in the old cite for hostellers - one of the most unique in Europe and several hotels.

PalQ,

Do you mean to say that the 19th century Viollet-le-Duc reconstruction fell apart half a century later? My impression is that Carcassonne reflects a 19th century view of what the medieval town should have looked like.

Hey Stu...I think I would like to take you and St.Cirq with us. At least can I have your cell phone number so I can call you from there?..just kidding.

Thanks

Both a room with a private shower and one with a private bath could include a separate small room for the toilet, traditional in many older French hotels. In that case there is often a bidet in with the shower or bathtub.

Carcassonne is a medievil marvel. Its Musée Archilogique and the interior of Basilica of St Nazzaire are worth a visit.