Hi MademoiselleFifi- the earrings I bought were 40euros. The range was 30-120 euros for much of the stuff. Although there were more expensive pieces too. Very unusual and well crafted jewelry. I was told by the salesgirl that Jeremia herself lives in the Montmartre neighborhood.

Anna- I'm not sure about the elevator at the Arc being only for the disabled. I was told by the billet clerk that we could take the elevator?

Of a feast fit for kings and les jouets et robes:

Day 3: Monday August 31st, 2009

This morning it is a light breakfast of bananas and yogurt bought from the neighborhood fruit seller as a feast awaits us at noon.

What does one give a frugal yet much beloved husband as a 40th Birthday present? Mais oui, a fabulous lunch at a fabulous restaurant in Paris, without telling him about the sticker shock. I figure for this once in a lifetime Birthday celebration we will go overboard but not to Taillevent or Arpege and not at dinner time…….. extravagance in moderation?

We have a reservation at Le Cinq at the Four Seasons, Paris in the area where Kerouac works. We enter at 12.20 and are seated in the waiting area as the restaurant is not open yet.

In a few minutes the hostess and two other persons escort us to a beautiful table. The cutlery is gleaming; the people courteous, orchids and beautiful plants surround us. For close to three hours all our senses are engaged. Whether holding hands or handling the gleaming silverware, whether nosily gazing at the Frenchmen on a business lunch or admiring the orchids, whether sipping on pink champagne on savoring chocolate mousse, whether listening to courteous, musical voices or the clink of glasses, or enjoying the aromas of succulent vegetables and subtle sauces, we are thoroughly mesmerized.

All I can say is that the experience in its totality- the ambience, the atmosphere, the service, the food, the occasion made the 85 euro/head price tag (sans alcohol) well worth it. A memory to last a lifetime.

Hubby’s dessert was brought out with a candle (for his 40th) and then for our ‘Anniversarie du marriage’ we both got complimentary scoops of vanilla ice-cream with custard sauce, joyeux Anniversarie chocolat tags and candles that we blew at the exact
same moment to the cheers of staff, the manager and other guests. The staff took a picture of us that they presented to us as well as little treat boxes filled with candies and petit fours from the petit four trolley. Our fifth at Le Cinq!

On our way back to the hotel I send hubby off before me so I can duck into Hermes to buy their new men’s cologne for him- he is all out of cologne and a fabulous box in the signature burnt sienna and brown box will be a nice gift.

This afternoon hubby is busy for a few hours with his meeting so his colleague’s wife (who by now has become a great friend) and I head off to...SHOP!!

We head to the Marais which I know well from our stay 2 years ago. First stop- Rue St Paul where we head off to monoprix. We buy les jouets et robes for our bebes, I buy some skin care products, harem pants (ha ha!), soaps. Next stop la pharmacie for more skin care stuff, more soaps and ibuprofen gel (not available Stateside!). Then off to Cotton Doux kitty korner from BHV. It has fantastic shirts for men. But as I realized this time around (somehow I had forgotten to make this observation 2 yrs ago) they have a lot of flamboyant shirts…after all this is the Marais! I find two of the most conservative shirts for hubby. I had bought him a shirt here 2 yrs ago and they way it is cut is so fabulous he is always getting compliments on it from men and women alike! Next stop BHV- more jouets and robes for the bebes! We then drink a café crème sitting at a café across from BHV and watch people go by.

Back to the hotel and after cleaning up, the four of us head to dinner. We find a café near George V across from maison du chocolat. After kir royals, I have a cheese plate for dinner, hubby does poulet with fries, and the others get omelets. Then we share a tarte tatin and crème brulee while sitting outdoors. Delicious and not too spendy.

And then we head back to dream of our 5th at the 5th and other sweet nothings.

Oh, you must have eaten at La Belle Ferronnière. I pass by it every day. It is one of the two traditional cafés for journalists in Paris (the other one is the Brasserie Lipp at Saint Germain). The reason for this is that for about 50 years, the building across the street, where the Cartier boutique is now, was the headquarters of Paris Match.

Yes, yes. It was La Belle Ferronniere. Interesting history about it being a journalist hangout. Thank you!

Hi Ramekin4:

I love, love your report! I'm heading to Paris during Thanksgiving week and will have 2 friends coming with me who have never visited Paris. The information you've provided thus far is very helpful. I love the shopping parts! :)

TR

I apologize for the delay in writing about days 4-6 but will be posting soon. thanks.

Looking very much forward to your post, I am leaving for Paris in a week!
LW

Ramekin, you have an enchanting writing style...I'm looking forward to your next installment. I'm more of a lurker than a poster myself and I am enjoying every word! Glad you had such a delightful trip.

Of more shopping, paying to go the bathroom and a French dinner at les cocottes de Christian Constant:

Day 4: Tuesday September 1, 2009:

Today the boys are busy with their posters and talks most of the day so Mrs Colleague (MC) and I set out to shop this morning. Thus far we have been blessed with fabulous sunshine but today it is kind of gloomy and rains intermittently.

First stop, Naf- Naf on the Champs Elysees. We are so intrigued by the silly sounding name of this French (I think?) boutique line that we decide we must venture in. Affordable prices and MC finds a fabulous blouse for 19 euros and a shrug. At promod I find some short sleeved blouses (having brought all full sleeved tops and sweaters not expecting fabulous weather in Paris!) for 12- 19 euros each. Not bad. MC needs to go to the bathroom so we go to the Virgin megastore thinking their bathrooms will be clean. Well, guess what – she had to pay 1 euro to get in and it was “just ok”.

Next stop-Fragonnard.Now the only Fragonnard I know is in the Carousel du Lovure so we hop on the metro but get off at the Louvre stop on line 1 instead of Palais Royal-Louvre which has a direct connection to the Carousel. So in the pouring rain with her in her raincoat and me umbrella-less (because I didn’t want to reach into my bag for it for some strange reason) we trudge and trudge until bedraggled and appearing like lost waifs we reach the Carousel and Fragonnard. I buy tons of perfumes and soaps for loved ones back home who love them and the fact that they are available only in France (or you could have them shipped for monstrous shipping costs) make them more special. Next stop, Lalique: where I buy a blue crystal butterfly pendant for a very dear friend. I am torn on not being able to afford one for myself too. But better to give. I tell the saleslady that I have noticed many Frenchwomen wearing butterfly necklaces and she informs me that the butterfly is a much beloved motif of French artists signifying beauty and freedom.

Now I’m ready to pee in my pants (Sorry I meant Pirates of Penzance!) and someone directs me to the toilets. Well, turns out it is a toilet shop in the Carousel for all kinds of crazy bathroom regalia and décor (including dollar bill toilet paper) but they also… er have facilities that one can use for 2euros. I am so desperate that I pay to go.

Then its back home to meet the hubsters and relax before we all head off to les cocottes. Not an English syllable within earshot and we grab the last seat in the house. The dinner-magnifique. Everything is served in cocottes- metal casseroles so to speak. Three of us have ceasar salad a la ritz and my hubster enjoys the crab. So fresh, so delish. Next I have les jaunes vegetables- yum who knew simple tomatoes and other veggies could taste so divine. Fish, shrimp and mashed potatoes with pork (unassuming name, worldclass favor I am told) are enjoyed by the others and unanimously we enjoy “ la fabuleuse tarte chocolat du Christian Constant” for dessert- true name I kid you not. Fantastic, local hangout. With wine and a 3 course meal we paid 50 euros per person.

We walk to the Eiffel tower and watch the lights come on at 11 pm. Beautiful. We ladies take pics with the French gendarmes while our men look on indulgently.

Off to the Trocadero stop and back home. To Giverny we go tomorrow.

I am inerested to hear about Giverny this time of year, I was there in the spring and it was the most beautiful place I have ever seen! Hope you enjoyed! LW

Wonderful report - I was in Paris for 2 weeks in May and this took me back , Thanks

Ditto...My wife and I were also in Paris in May, and reading the trip reports always takes me back, too.

SS

marking

ttt

Enjoying your report so much. Have not yet been to Paris, but am determinted to go there. As a long time Monet-o-phile, anxious to see your review of Giverney. An anniversary in Paris..what an exciting thing. (Our 40th in Kauai was good too)