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A wonderful 8 nights in Rome...including my usual Limoncello!

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Feb 28th, 2008, 07:04 PM
  #21
 
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I can't wait to hear more on Rome!
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Feb 28th, 2008, 07:29 PM
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SusanP...

Thanks for the great report. I was in Rome last December and will back this coming December...can't get enough!

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Feb 28th, 2008, 07:45 PM
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Well the nerve SusanP..I got home and looked forward to more installments, lol. Well you are forgiven but I do hope there is more to read tomorrow evening. In the meantime, take care and may I say I hope you have a bottle of Linoncello at home!
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Feb 28th, 2008, 10:31 PM
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Hi Susan,

I saw the word Limoncello and I knew it was you. I am looking forward to reading your report. I love Rome in the winter time!

Aloha
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Feb 28th, 2008, 11:15 PM
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Enjoying your post, SusanP.

Looking forward to more limoncello anecdotes.
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Feb 29th, 2008, 06:57 AM
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Feb 29th, 2008, 08:39 AM
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Hi Susan

I have my second trip to Rome planned for this October and am really enjoying your report, especially since I will be traveling solo also. Your report is very timely given the current exchange rate. I have my hotel booked, but am considering switching to an apartment to cut costs. The information on the apartment on via Sora is very helpful.
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Feb 29th, 2008, 09:58 AM
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Susan, I am so impressed that you have mastered the fine art of bus travel in Rome. You are inspiring me to give it a try next time. I am also in awe of your ability to find all these wonderful churchs. Do you have a map showing where they are?, or just good research?
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Feb 29th, 2008, 10:07 AM
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Thanks for sharing. Sadly,as of now, this will be the first year in 4 years that I have not stayed in Rome. France is "calling" me for my main trip this year.
Susan, you help prove my point that Rome deserves TIME. After well more than 30 nights, I still want more, but am glad to be able to go at my pace.
Great report!
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Feb 29th, 2008, 01:26 PM
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SusanP

I had to chuckle when the couple asked if you tire of traveling alone. THERE IS NO BETTER WAY! My husband can't take the time off, so I leave him home and go go go. I have been to Italy several times. Two years ago spent 4 days in Venice and met some great people. I will be in Rome in May with my 24 year old son for several days before visiting friends in Padova and then Florence.

If you only had 3 days in Rome, what are the sights you would be sure not to miss and how about some good, inexpensive restaurants (is there such a thing as inexpensive with the euro??)

I still have a bottle of limoncello that I brought home from my last visit. I just keep looking at it to remember all those great memories!
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Feb 29th, 2008, 02:17 PM
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LowCountryIslander, thanks, and have a great time in December!

LoveItaly, sorry about that! I had to work overtime yesterday and was too tired to write. I'll definitely do some more tonight. And of course I have Limoncello at home, although I don't drink it every night!

cafegoddess, I think Limoncello has become my symbol!
Thanks, 5 alive. nwtraveler, an apartment is great as long as you don't feel the need for a concierge or desk clerk to help you out.

Barb, the buses aren't that hard to figure out once you get the hang of it. The thing you have to remember when looking at the signs to see where each bus stops is that it won't say the name of the site (except for a couple like the Colosseum). It gives the street names. For instance, to get to the Piazza Navona, you want to get off at Corso Rinascimento or one of a couple on Corso Vittorio Emanuele. The stops are not named "Piazza Navona." As far as finding churches, it's a combination of recommendations here, reading books (I like the DK Eyewitness Guide), looking at my Streetwise Rome Map and in some cases, just going inside because it's there!

jabez, there are other places I'd like to go, but the problem is, I'd have to give up Italy for a trip to go somewhere else. At this point, I'm not willing to do that! And the trip always has to include Rome. In 5 trips, I've now spent 38 nights in Rome and have every intention of going again (this July, actually ).

kraspa, yes, the beauty of traveling alone is that you can do whatever you want whenever you want to do it. Hmmmm...the best in 3 days? That's a tough one. For a first-timer, 3 days will be taken up with the obvious things (Colosseum/Forum, Vatican/St. Peter's, Pantheon/Piazza Navona/Trevi Fountain, that sort of thing). Just off the top of my head, a couple of my favorite churches are Santa Maria della Vittoria (Bernini's Ecstasy of St. Theresa, plus just the church itself) and San Andrea al Quirinale (an absolute gem).

More later.
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Feb 29th, 2008, 04:33 PM
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Here's some more...

Tuesday is another gorgeous day, not a cloud in sight. I want to go to the Doria Pamphilj Gallery and get on the bus to Piazza Venezia and walk around to the left up Via d. Gatta because from something I read, I think the entrance is at Piazza del Collegio Romano. Well, there is an entrance there, but youíre not allowed in that way (naturally!). The sign says to go around to the Via del Corso side, so I do that and find the entrance. The entry fee is 8E, which includes the excellent audio guide. For once, here is one that works and is set up well. You can punch in the number of the item when you want a description and can skip it if youíre not interested. This is an impressive collection of art that the family is required to keep together. I canít remember for sure now, it may be due to an edict by Pope Innocent X. Velazquezís portrait of him and Berniniís sculpture of him are both here. Itís a big place, so lots of walking. One opulent hallway is very reminiscent of the Hall of Mirrors at Versailles. One painting that interests me is of a bunch of toddlers fighting! When you look closer, you see itís cherubs (very white skin and wings) and others with slightly redder skin who look decidedly unfriendly. The usual good vs. evil. I mention this one in particular because of something I see later tonight.

After the gallery, I do a little shopping along Via Pie di Marmo at Confetteria Moriondo & Gariglio (chocolate) and G. Poggi, an art supply store that also has wonderful handmade paper. Great if you like to do scrapbooks or journals. G. Poggi is actually two stores on Via Pie di Marmo on either side of Via del Gesu, one has the art supplies and the other the handmade paper. I had found both of these in The Civilized Shopperís Guide to Rome, a terrific little book if you like to shop. I walk down Via del Gesu and go in the church. Iíve been here at Christmas time and love it, plus I really want to sit down for a bit! Of course, Gesu is amazing, well worth a visit. When Iíve rested, I go across the street to House & Kitchen, which carries lots of great kitchen stuff. Itís on Via d. Plebiscito directly at the bus stop, so when Iím done, I take the bus back to my apartment. Definitely time to put my feet up!

For dinner, I go to Armando al Pantheon. I had made a reservation yesterday when I tried to go there and found them full. Yes, even in February, you need reservations at a lot of places. I had been here before and know I want the Bruschetta Pomodoro again. I donít know why theirs is so much better than anyplace else, but it is. I follow it with Saltimbocco ala Romano, also delicious. I end with Catalan Custard, which is like Crème Brulee. Itís good, but I should have gone with the Panne Cotta, which I had tried here before and liked better. With Ĺ bottle wine and water, 33.50E. They have a lot of pictures, paintings and other things on the walls here. As Iím looking around, there I see the picture I had seen at the Doria Pamphilj of the fighting cherubs and devils on a Chianti Russo ad! It just seems so strange that I should see it the same day I had seen the actual painting.

On my way back to the Piazza Navona, as I pass the Pantheon, the Piazza della Rotonda is empty except for a small tour group. I have to sort of smile, because the tour leader is still holding her little flag up in the air. Does she really think they might get lost or not be able to spot her? Back at the Piazza Navona, itís empty and my favorite café, Café Barocca, is closing, so I have to go to the one next door, Ristorante Panzirone for my Limoncello. Much more expensive and the waiters arenít as nice. Itís very cold. I can see my breath. Somehow this is easier to take while sipping Limoncello in Rome!

Iím tired the next morning, so I really sleep in. Iíve done a LOT of walking the past two days and feel like my knees need a rest. Should I admit to not going to see a thing today? Itís another glorious day, so I take a book and walk over to the Piazza Navona and spend quite a while just sitting there reading and watching the people. Itís a little warmer today, and the sun feels wonderful. I thoroughly enjoy doing basically nothing!

A little later, I walk over to Via dei Banchi Vecchi (not far from my apartment), grabbing a slice of pizza on the way, to look for a jewelry store in that same shopping book. Iím not thrilled with anything in particular, but I find another shop down the street, Sancesario Emilio. Uh oh, now Iím in trouble! He and his brother and sister hand make all their jewelry using various stones, Venetian glass and Swarovski crystals. Beautiful stuff. He only speaks a little English, but we manage to communicate. He is very proud of their work and shows me a brochure of a big show where their jewelry was featured and explains that they never make more than six of any piece. His items from last season are on sale for 20-50% off. I get a couple of Christmas gifts at half price. Of course, the two items I really want myself are from the new Spring line and are not on sale, but he does give me 10% off those as well. Fun!

I head over to Il Bacaro, Via degli Spagnoli, for dinner, where Iíve eaten numerous times before. I have the Beef with Mustard Cream and Orange Sauce and a salad with is Carpaccio of Artichokes and Parmesan. Delicious. With 2 glasses of wine, 40.50E. Back at the Piazza Navona, itís much warmer tonight. I donít need my jacket when right next to the heater, and there are more people around while I enjoy the Limoncello. When Iím about finished, it starts raining. I have an umbrella back at the apartment, so I really donít want to buy another one. Hmmm...I donít want to get wet, so I guess Iíll just have to have another Limoncello! Sure enough, after that, it stopped raining.

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Feb 29th, 2008, 05:16 PM
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Feb 29th, 2008, 05:24 PM
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Oh Susan, I just love reading your reports! And I really did laugh out loud about your thought process regarding the rain, umbrella at the apartment..easy solution..have another Limoncello! A woman after my own heart
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Feb 29th, 2008, 06:52 PM
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LoveItaly, seemed like a good idea to me!
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Mar 1st, 2008, 07:23 AM
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Susan-
Loving your report! I'll be in Rome in two weeks for 8 nights and I just can't wait!
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Mar 1st, 2008, 01:24 PM
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Making note of all the restaurants you are mentioning. Hope to hit a few on my trip in May!
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Mar 1st, 2008, 02:00 PM
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SusanP ~ I am enjoying this SO much, your report makes me feel like we are back in Roma. I want to go back NOW, can I, can I, huh, can I??????
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Mar 1st, 2008, 02:13 PM
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Wonderful report! More, please!

By the way, I heard there are no more cats at the Torre Argentina. Apparently, they moved the kitties to another shelter.
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Mar 1st, 2008, 02:51 PM
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Wonderful report. We made our first trip to Italy last summer. We're going to skip a big family trip this summer, so we can spend three weeks next summer!
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