A week in Burgundy -- December 2010
 

My boyfriend and I are considering a trip to France this coming December. We would leave New York on December 24th and fly back on the 31st. I would like some help with an itinerary that includes exploring Burgundy. Is a week enough time? I am thinking we should spend at least one night in Paris. We have both been to Paris before and I am sure we will be back another time to concentrate on a city trip. He is a teacher so we are constrained by the school schedule.

You realize, of course, that Burgundy is farther north than any place in the US (except Alaska). Much farther north than NYC. Would you tour Quebec or Maine in December??? Dijon might be OK - but that's only a 1-2 night stay (although it is my second favorite city in France).

We've visited Paris a couple of times in December (including last year), and that's a wonderful time to be there. Leaves are off the trees so you can see the beautiful architecture, less crowded, BEAUTIFUL Christmas decorations, and believe it or not - people are actually dining outside at some places. We celebrated New Year's Eve at a cafe sitting outside (lots of wine first, however).

I would stick with Paris. I think you might run out of things you want to do in Burgundy in December. We spent 2 weeks in Burgundy 3 years ago, and 2 weeks in Beaujolais - but it was in Sept.

Stu Dudley

The French countryside can be dreary when it is cold and damp. If you think that Paris will be too much, consider adding another major city. Strasbourg comes to mind. Lyon would be another. Both are on TGV lines with reduced price tickets sold ninety days in advance.

I think if you want to do Burgundy because you have already been to Paris (and plan to come back again some other time)and December is the only time you can go then you should be aware of a few things. I'm from the northeast in the U.S. so I am used to tough winters. But we had ample snowplowing and salting of roads there. These services are in short supply in France so there is always the chance roads could be hazardous due to ice and frost, and of course snow. There are alerts posted on the news and weather stations where there are road alerts due to frost, ice or snow. You can never predict what the weather is going to be like. It might be warmer than usual or it might be colder than usual.

So, the decision is yours now that you know some of the risks. If you want to go, then Dijon and Beaune should be on your list. Understand that wineries at the vineyards will be closed but wine tasting still available in stores. There are a number of small villages west of the main road between Beaune and Dijon which are nice to drive through. Nuit St. Georges should be on your list.

Get some guidebooks (Michelin Green Guide, DK Eyewitness Guide, Lonely Planet etc.) and find out what there is in this region. I assume you are driving so get Michelin maps with a scale of 1/200,000. There are all kinds of icons on the maps for châteux, ruins, abbeys, churches, scenic views, etc. The roads highlighted in green are designated scenic and are usually pleasant to drive on.

So, remember that weather is unpredictable and road travel could be problematic. I don't want to tell you whether you should or shouldn't go. I just want to give you the facts so you can make a well informed decision.

All this said, do you still want to do Burgundy or is there another region in France you might also consider? Perhaps Strasbourg (which is all decorated at Christmas) and Colmar? You might abandon the idea of driving and stick to trains between destinations. It limits your ability to explore but a few different cities could certainly keep you occupied for 6 days. If you are determined to still do Burgundy then basing in Dijon might be a good idea in case there is inclement weather. I prefer Beaune to Dijon myself but Beaune is a smaller city with less to do than Dijon. Hope this helps.

Just another thought. You might keep it flexible and take a train from Paris to Dijon. Once you are on the ground there you can check the forecasts and see if it looks like it will be suitable driving weather. If so, you can rent your car and explore the area by car. If not, you can explore Dijon and then travel to your back-up optional cities by train when you finish your time in Dijon. At the very least you can take a train from Dijon to Beaune before continuing anywhere else by train.

elysag:

we were in Beaune and vicinity late last October, early November. Weather was quite tolerable, sweater and zipper jacket, but December would be quite different. We spent a winter in Provence years ago, and it was rather enjoyable without the crowds. Here are some selected pics of Beaune and Vicinity taken last fall. Note the handsome colors on the harvested grape vines. Yeah, I know I overdid the Hospice pics so just scroll through. Why worry about the weather..you'll have your love to keep you warm. It works well...Enjoy it.
stu

http://picasaweb.google.com/stuartto...eBurgundy2009#