Dinner at Rami, just next door to the Mavi Ev, up three flights of narrow stairs to an immaculately set table with a view of the Blue Mosque. The meno was interesting and featured Ottoman dishes, a great meal and the service was excellent. I had a long talk to the waiter (who has several cousins living in Australia), he talked of the difficulties that the Turkish wine industry has with consistency, one vintage is tremendous but a bottle of the same from the next year tastes like "truck water ". We had a bottle of 2000 Kavaklidere Primeur Red, which was a light unoaked style, very easy on the palate and quite fragrant. I cannot imagine getting down the stairs after having anymore than one bottle !! ;)

Up the next morning for a ferry ride up towards the Black sea, a very clear day with some great views. Some delightfull water side houses, old palaces etc. Lunch at a seafood restaurant, "karaca" (I think), food was good, nice meze including a fiery chilli dip !! Main course was grilled sea bream....simple and delicious. Had a white wine with lunch. another from Kavaklidere, called Efsane, very dry and crisp (chablis ????), good with the fish. After lunch we walked along the Bosphorus to the castle that guarded the waterway (can't remember the name...help...old timers disease ;)
A great spot for photos and views of the passing watercraft. Back down to the water where I struck up a conversation with a fisherman who was really up beat about the condition of the Bosphorus, catches were improving as the water quality improved. The water did look clear !

... Rumeli Hisar on the european site, Anadolu Hisar on the Asian site, Marko...
...still some raki side effects, I presume!... :-)

Marko, where's the rest of your report. I want to hear the rest of Turkey and your Greece report as well!
Tricia

Hi Marko,
I will be going to Turkey later this summer. I would love to find a trusted tourguide. Would you know how to get in touch with Bitsy?

Thanks!

sorry more to come,busy at work, the next installment will be Cappodocia.
Bitsy's email is: [email protected]
Tell her I said hello.

I am eagerly awaiting more--we leave for Turkey and Greece June 5

Marko,
Can't wait to read the next installment! I love your trip report so far. I really laughed at your description of the hammam-- especially reading about the women masseuses! Because one of those big-boobed old ladies worked on me, too! What a trip! Especially when I was folded up and twisted in ways I didn't know my body could go!
So hurry up with work so you can tell us more!
Paule