A Trip to Italy, including the home of Limoncello
Aug 5th, 2008, 05:20 PM
#41
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Leely2, glad you're enjoying it.
JJ127, I haven't updated it yet from this most recent trip, but if you want to give your email, I could send it to you when I get that done. I'm afraid it will be most helpful to someone who is staying near Piazza Navona/Campo de' Fiori, probably not so much if you're staying in a different area.
JJ127, I haven't updated it yet from this most recent trip, but if you want to give your email, I could send it to you when I get that done. I'm afraid it will be most helpful to someone who is staying near Piazza Navona/Campo de' Fiori, probably not so much if you're staying in a different area.
Aug 5th, 2008, 06:55 PM
#43
What a report!!! And extremely timely for those of us brain cramped folks who can't decide whether 8-9 days in Capri and Positano is overkill. Thanks to you, I'm thinking that amount of time would be just fine. Lots to do, or not do, as you found out in Capri. Thanks for your advice!
Aug 6th, 2008, 11:58 AM
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JJ, no, I've never purchased the Roma Pass. I've probably been to most of the places covered by it, so it wouldn't be cost effective. I've never even bought a weekly bus pass. I think it's 16€, and even though I use the bus a lot, that's more than twice a day. I just buy the 1€ tickets as I need them.
dcd, I don't think that's too long at all. I would have had no trouble staying 4 or 5 nights on Capri. And as you see, I didn't make it to Pompeii or Naples from Sorrento, and would like to go back to Ravello, so I could easily spend the same amount of time, or more, in the area again.
Tom, I've misplaced the cord that downloads the pictures onto the computer. Plus, I've never done it (the ones I have on my own computer were put there by my son), so it may take me a while to figure out one of those photo sites. Maybe!
dcd, I don't think that's too long at all. I would have had no trouble staying 4 or 5 nights on Capri. And as you see, I didn't make it to Pompeii or Naples from Sorrento, and would like to go back to Ravello, so I could easily spend the same amount of time, or more, in the area again.
Tom, I've misplaced the cord that downloads the pictures onto the computer. Plus, I've never done it (the ones I have on my own computer were put there by my son), so it may take me a while to figure out one of those photo sites. Maybe!
Aug 6th, 2008, 01:27 PM
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SusanP
This is the first of your trip reports I've had the pleasure of seeing. What an awesome and inspiring read! I, too, have arthritic knees and have made no plans to travel until replacement surgeries (date unknown). Maybe I could do a trip or two on my own, stopping and starting as you did, before I go ahead with the big ops. Thanks for such a fun, informative and carefree report. You are amazing!
Travelchat
This is the first of your trip reports I've had the pleasure of seeing. What an awesome and inspiring read! I, too, have arthritic knees and have made no plans to travel until replacement surgeries (date unknown). Maybe I could do a trip or two on my own, stopping and starting as you did, before I go ahead with the big ops. Thanks for such a fun, informative and carefree report. You are amazing!
Travelchat
Aug 6th, 2008, 02:53 PM
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Hi Susan,
As always I love following you around Roma. Great report. I long to be in Rome again. Maybe I can somehow manage it next year combined with Dubrovnik. Looking forward to your next installments.
As always I love following you around Roma. Great report. I long to be in Rome again. Maybe I can somehow manage it next year combined with Dubrovnik. Looking forward to your next installments.
Aug 11th, 2008, 06:57 PM
#49
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I'm finally getting back to this.
travelchat, how bad is your arthritis? I'm not to the point of needed replacement surgery (although I suppose that's somewhere in my future). I can't put off Italy until after that! I don't have excruciating pain, but enough that it does affect what I do. If you think you can do it, go for it! And the advantage of traveling alone is that you don't have to worry about holding somebody else back, or frustrating them because of having to slow down for you.
Hi Barb, nice to hear from you. You need to join Dayle & Tom & me for dinner in Rome!
Here's a little more:
The next day, my main thing is to go to Hadrian’s Villa and Tivoli for Villa d’Este. I had debated about whether to go by myself or take a tour. Generally, I prefer to go by myself, and I have Walter’s excellent, detailed directions on how to do so. I had also read here about someone’s good experience with Vastours. I decided to take the tour and had called yesterday to reserve the tour. It doesn’t leave until late afternoon, so I have some time. I stroll around for a while with my breakfast of strawberries and go see if Santa Maria della Pace is open. It’s just around the corner from my apartment. I’ve tried to go here numerous times on previous trips, but it’s never open, even when it’s supposed to be open. As usual, it’s closed, even though it should be open!
However, nearby is Santa Maria dell’Anima, and it’s open. No surprise, here is another good one. Gorgeous blue and gold ceiling, great stained glass window, beautiful design in the dome, not to mention the paintings. As I say, you can go into any church that you happen to pass in Rome and not be disappointed. I meander down Via Coronari, doing a little window shopping and just enjoying the area. Later, I decide I want a late lunch before my tour and get some pizza from Antica Rosticceria Mangia Bene, again just around the corner from my apartment, I think on Via d. Tor Millina, 4€ for what I would call two pieces of pizza and a bottle of water. I take it over to the Piazza Navona to enjoy my lunch in my favorite place. I guess, from what I’ve read here on Fodor’s since my return, that I’m breaking the law. I knew there was a law against eating in Piazza San Marco in Venice, but I didn’t realize that it was also the case in Rome. I can’t say for sure, but I think a police officer might have seen me doing this, either today or when I do it later in the week, but thankfully I don’t get arrested!
Or have to throw away my pizza! It is very good, so I wouldn’t have liked that!
After finishing my pizza, I walk over and get a bus to the tour office on Via Piemonte. I had read that they pick you up at your hotel, but when I called yesterday for the reservation, the guy didn’t speak the best English and just wanted to know which hotel I was staying at. When I said I was in an apartment, he said I would need to come there. It was no big problem, but I wonder if the apartment was the problem. Other people had been picked up at their hotel. Anyway, I take the bus and walk the fairly short distance to their office. I would have probably been OK without a reservation, as the bus isn’t full (maybe between ½ and ¾ full). I guess the main reason I decided to take the tour was, I had this silly idea that you would be dropped off right at the door, and this would decrease the amount of walking/climbing. This turns out to be only partially true!
The guide on the bus gives lots of good information on the way, and we get to Hadrian’s Villa, and they do drop us off right at the gate. The 53€ price for the tour includes the entry fees, so the guide buys the tickets and we go in. I decide that maybe I should get a fresh bottle of water, as it’s very hot and is going to be a lot of walking. The guide informs us that it starts with a 300-metre (I think I’m remembering this right) walk up a fairly steep hill. Oh great, now I remember why I don’t take tours. I will always be behind the rest of the group and don’t want to hold them up! I try to offset this by being right at the head of the group when we start, so by the time we get to the top of the hill, I will be last, but won’t be TOO far behind! This tactic does actually work. I start out at the head and end up at the end of the line, but since the restroom is at the top of the hill (the one at the bottom where you could buy snacks/water was closed), while some people are using those, I have time to catch up!
I realize that this is a fairly abbreviated visit to Hadrian’s Villa. You could certainly spend much more time there, but the tour takes us to the best-preserved parts, and our guide gives us a lot of history behind everything, so it’s enough for me. Throughout the tour, whenever we stop for her to give more information, I move to the front of the line again. While this helps, I realize that if I had been there by myself, I could have decided when I wanted to sit down and give my knees a rest (there are benches placed around at various spots). I do enjoy Hadrian’s Villa, but it’s not my favorite experience. I’m interested in the history as well, so I’m very glad I went. I didn’t realize he had a young boy as a lover for 9 years who tragically died by drowning in the Nile on a trip to Egypt. There is a huge pool with statues that was in his memory.
When we get back to the bus, the guide says that the hardest part is over, there isn’t much walking/climbing from now on. This is a blatant lie!!!
We drive on to Villa d’Este. OK, here is the part where my idea of being dropped off at the door proves to be totally inaccurate. The bus drops us off and we walk to Villa d’Este. It’s not a terribly long walk, but it’s far enough, and it’s all downhill…which means all uphill on the way back. And I’m pretty sure there are lots of stairs involved once we get there. I’m right about that. However, I really enjoy Villa d’Este. What’s not to enjoy? Gorgeous gardens and grounds, amazing fountains, and I don’t even go all the way down. I know I can’t do that, both because of the amount of walking we have already done, and because of the time we have here. If I were to go all the way down, I would never make it back up in time to get back to the bus!
That said, again, I’m very glad I went. I would actually like to go back just to Villa d’Este on my own, take my time and go all the way down, and I could also take my time coming back up. Actually there is an elevator to go down the first section of stairs. It takes you down to the cafeteria, and I did take it back up from that point. But it’s a lot further down to go all the way down. I think I could do it if I took my time and if that were the only thing I had planned for the day!
There is an optional offer to go to a cameo shop. There is absolutely no pressure to do so, but it’s just around the corner from the entrance to Villa d’Este, so I do go over and see the demonstration. I actually know pretty much everything he says, but it’s interesting. I have to say, there is no pressure to buy something. I go back out to sit on some steps until it’s time to walk back to the bus, and a teenage girl comes out with her mother and grandmother (her father is sitting next to me on the stairs). Her mother says she has bought an angel cameo for their daughter, and it was expensive, but it’s something she’ll have all her life. I have to agree with this. So much better to buy something that you WILL have all your life and enjoy all your life than some cheap souvenir that will get stuck in a drawer and never be looked at again.
On the way back, the bus does take everybody to their hotel. I just say the Piazza Navona. He actually drops me off at Torre Argentina and starts to tell me where the Piazza Navona is, but I say, I know where it is. At first I wonder why he has dropped me off short of my destination, but then see that he needs to turn the other way there.
travelchat, how bad is your arthritis? I'm not to the point of needed replacement surgery (although I suppose that's somewhere in my future). I can't put off Italy until after that! I don't have excruciating pain, but enough that it does affect what I do. If you think you can do it, go for it! And the advantage of traveling alone is that you don't have to worry about holding somebody else back, or frustrating them because of having to slow down for you.
Hi Barb, nice to hear from you. You need to join Dayle & Tom & me for dinner in Rome!
Here's a little more:
The next day, my main thing is to go to Hadrian’s Villa and Tivoli for Villa d’Este. I had debated about whether to go by myself or take a tour. Generally, I prefer to go by myself, and I have Walter’s excellent, detailed directions on how to do so. I had also read here about someone’s good experience with Vastours. I decided to take the tour and had called yesterday to reserve the tour. It doesn’t leave until late afternoon, so I have some time. I stroll around for a while with my breakfast of strawberries and go see if Santa Maria della Pace is open. It’s just around the corner from my apartment. I’ve tried to go here numerous times on previous trips, but it’s never open, even when it’s supposed to be open. As usual, it’s closed, even though it should be open!
However, nearby is Santa Maria dell’Anima, and it’s open. No surprise, here is another good one. Gorgeous blue and gold ceiling, great stained glass window, beautiful design in the dome, not to mention the paintings. As I say, you can go into any church that you happen to pass in Rome and not be disappointed. I meander down Via Coronari, doing a little window shopping and just enjoying the area. Later, I decide I want a late lunch before my tour and get some pizza from Antica Rosticceria Mangia Bene, again just around the corner from my apartment, I think on Via d. Tor Millina, 4€ for what I would call two pieces of pizza and a bottle of water. I take it over to the Piazza Navona to enjoy my lunch in my favorite place. I guess, from what I’ve read here on Fodor’s since my return, that I’m breaking the law. I knew there was a law against eating in Piazza San Marco in Venice, but I didn’t realize that it was also the case in Rome. I can’t say for sure, but I think a police officer might have seen me doing this, either today or when I do it later in the week, but thankfully I don’t get arrested!
Or have to throw away my pizza! It is very good, so I wouldn’t have liked that!After finishing my pizza, I walk over and get a bus to the tour office on Via Piemonte. I had read that they pick you up at your hotel, but when I called yesterday for the reservation, the guy didn’t speak the best English and just wanted to know which hotel I was staying at. When I said I was in an apartment, he said I would need to come there. It was no big problem, but I wonder if the apartment was the problem. Other people had been picked up at their hotel. Anyway, I take the bus and walk the fairly short distance to their office. I would have probably been OK without a reservation, as the bus isn’t full (maybe between ½ and ¾ full). I guess the main reason I decided to take the tour was, I had this silly idea that you would be dropped off right at the door, and this would decrease the amount of walking/climbing. This turns out to be only partially true!
The guide on the bus gives lots of good information on the way, and we get to Hadrian’s Villa, and they do drop us off right at the gate. The 53€ price for the tour includes the entry fees, so the guide buys the tickets and we go in. I decide that maybe I should get a fresh bottle of water, as it’s very hot and is going to be a lot of walking. The guide informs us that it starts with a 300-metre (I think I’m remembering this right) walk up a fairly steep hill. Oh great, now I remember why I don’t take tours. I will always be behind the rest of the group and don’t want to hold them up! I try to offset this by being right at the head of the group when we start, so by the time we get to the top of the hill, I will be last, but won’t be TOO far behind! This tactic does actually work. I start out at the head and end up at the end of the line, but since the restroom is at the top of the hill (the one at the bottom where you could buy snacks/water was closed), while some people are using those, I have time to catch up!
I realize that this is a fairly abbreviated visit to Hadrian’s Villa. You could certainly spend much more time there, but the tour takes us to the best-preserved parts, and our guide gives us a lot of history behind everything, so it’s enough for me. Throughout the tour, whenever we stop for her to give more information, I move to the front of the line again. While this helps, I realize that if I had been there by myself, I could have decided when I wanted to sit down and give my knees a rest (there are benches placed around at various spots). I do enjoy Hadrian’s Villa, but it’s not my favorite experience. I’m interested in the history as well, so I’m very glad I went. I didn’t realize he had a young boy as a lover for 9 years who tragically died by drowning in the Nile on a trip to Egypt. There is a huge pool with statues that was in his memory.
When we get back to the bus, the guide says that the hardest part is over, there isn’t much walking/climbing from now on. This is a blatant lie!!!
We drive on to Villa d’Este. OK, here is the part where my idea of being dropped off at the door proves to be totally inaccurate. The bus drops us off and we walk to Villa d’Este. It’s not a terribly long walk, but it’s far enough, and it’s all downhill…which means all uphill on the way back. And I’m pretty sure there are lots of stairs involved once we get there. I’m right about that. However, I really enjoy Villa d’Este. What’s not to enjoy? Gorgeous gardens and grounds, amazing fountains, and I don’t even go all the way down. I know I can’t do that, both because of the amount of walking we have already done, and because of the time we have here. If I were to go all the way down, I would never make it back up in time to get back to the bus!
That said, again, I’m very glad I went. I would actually like to go back just to Villa d’Este on my own, take my time and go all the way down, and I could also take my time coming back up. Actually there is an elevator to go down the first section of stairs. It takes you down to the cafeteria, and I did take it back up from that point. But it’s a lot further down to go all the way down. I think I could do it if I took my time and if that were the only thing I had planned for the day!
There is an optional offer to go to a cameo shop. There is absolutely no pressure to do so, but it’s just around the corner from the entrance to Villa d’Este, so I do go over and see the demonstration. I actually know pretty much everything he says, but it’s interesting. I have to say, there is no pressure to buy something. I go back out to sit on some steps until it’s time to walk back to the bus, and a teenage girl comes out with her mother and grandmother (her father is sitting next to me on the stairs). Her mother says she has bought an angel cameo for their daughter, and it was expensive, but it’s something she’ll have all her life. I have to agree with this. So much better to buy something that you WILL have all your life and enjoy all your life than some cheap souvenir that will get stuck in a drawer and never be looked at again.
On the way back, the bus does take everybody to their hotel. I just say the Piazza Navona. He actually drops me off at Torre Argentina and starts to tell me where the Piazza Navona is, but I say, I know where it is. At first I wonder why he has dropped me off short of my destination, but then see that he needs to turn the other way there.
Aug 12th, 2008, 03:49 AM
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Hi Susan, glad you are back. I'm glad to hear your opinion of Villa d'Este since it is high on our list for our next trip to Rome. You mentioned having "Walter's directions" - is there a link to that or are they something you found personally? Would you mind sharing? Thank you.
Aug 12th, 2008, 01:30 PM
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Dinner that evening is at another favorite, DaFrancesca, Piazza Fico, just west of the Piazza Navona. They have wonderful Pizza Margherita with Prosciutto, so that’s what I order. Delicious! With ½ bottle of the house wine, 14€. The table next to me is flush with mine, so it’s like one table. There is a couple sitting there, and the woman has a magazine, and with wine and water and plates, it starts to spread over on to my table. She starts to apologize and take the water back, but I assure her that it’s OK, it’s not in my way. This is mostly done by pointing, as I don’t think either of them spoke English. Naturally, I go over to the Piazza Navona for my Limoncello.
On Thursday, I’m thinking that once again I’ve done a great deal of walking/climbing the past couple of days and my knees need a break. I decide it would be a good time to go to Volpetti’s, because that wouldn’t take much walking. As I come around the corner from my apartment, though, I look to my left and see that Santa Maria della Pace is actually open. Obviously, I have plenty of time, so I finally get to go inside. There are several cleaning women/nuns dusting and polishing everything. Another church worth seeing, although I’m not sure I’ve seen any that aren’t worth the time!
I leave the church and walk over to get the bus to Volpetti’s on Via Marmorata. I can’t go home without some of their great cheese. I’m a Pecorino lover and get a couple kinds of that, plus some Parmigiana Reggiano, both for myself and some for my son, who is a major cheese-lover. I decide to get some of their Pizza Bianca as well for lunch. After taking the bus back and dropping off the cheese, I get a gelato and go sit in the Piazza Navona to enjoy it in the sun and watch the people, a perfect thing to do on a lazy afternoon! Later I do a little shopping not far from my apartment, including the Supermercato. I always have to get some Fiesta chocolate-covered orange cakes to bring home. Think Italian Twinkies! They have a bit of a kick to them. I had planned to get some Balsamic Vinegar but don’t think I can put any more bottles in my suitcase. I take it easy after that and give my knees a good rest.
I’m off to Armando al Pantheon for dinner. As I come into the Piazza della Rotonda, there is a gorgeous full moon hanging in the sky just above the Pantheon. Wonderful! I’ve reserved the Coda alla Vaccinara at Armando al Pantheon and also order the Bruschetta Pomodoro to start. They really have delicious bruschetta. The oxtail is also delicious, in a very thick, flavorful tomato sauce. With water and ½ bottle wine, 29€. You know what I did after dinner!
On Thursday, I’m thinking that once again I’ve done a great deal of walking/climbing the past couple of days and my knees need a break. I decide it would be a good time to go to Volpetti’s, because that wouldn’t take much walking. As I come around the corner from my apartment, though, I look to my left and see that Santa Maria della Pace is actually open. Obviously, I have plenty of time, so I finally get to go inside. There are several cleaning women/nuns dusting and polishing everything. Another church worth seeing, although I’m not sure I’ve seen any that aren’t worth the time!
I leave the church and walk over to get the bus to Volpetti’s on Via Marmorata. I can’t go home without some of their great cheese. I’m a Pecorino lover and get a couple kinds of that, plus some Parmigiana Reggiano, both for myself and some for my son, who is a major cheese-lover. I decide to get some of their Pizza Bianca as well for lunch. After taking the bus back and dropping off the cheese, I get a gelato and go sit in the Piazza Navona to enjoy it in the sun and watch the people, a perfect thing to do on a lazy afternoon!
Later I do a little shopping not far from my apartment, including the Supermercato. I always have to get some Fiesta chocolate-covered orange cakes to bring home. Think Italian Twinkies! They have a bit of a kick to them. I had planned to get some Balsamic Vinegar but don’t think I can put any more bottles in my suitcase. I take it easy after that and give my knees a good rest.I’m off to Armando al Pantheon for dinner. As I come into the Piazza della Rotonda, there is a gorgeous full moon hanging in the sky just above the Pantheon. Wonderful! I’ve reserved the Coda alla Vaccinara at Armando al Pantheon and also order the Bruschetta Pomodoro to start. They really have delicious bruschetta. The oxtail is also delicious, in a very thick, flavorful tomato sauce. With water and ½ bottle wine, 29€. You know what I did after dinner!
Aug 13th, 2008, 06:42 AM
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Reallying enjoying your report as always. Can't believe my trip to Greece and Rome is only 2 1/2 weeks away! Taking note of your restaurant suggestions in case we happen to be nearby when hunger strikes!
Aug 30th, 2008, 08:57 AM
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OK, I'm finally getting back to this! It's been very busy at work, lots of overtime. I forgot to tell what happened Wed night after the tour to Hadrian's Villa:
The tour ran longer than advertised, and it’s close to 8:00 pm when I get back to the apartment. I have to put up my feet for a little while, so after that and getting a shower and changing for dinner, it’s after 9:00 before I leave to go to dinner. Anyone who has stayed in an apartment in Italy knows that there are not lights on in the hall all the time. However, there are light switches with little lights on them so you can see them in the dark and turn the lights on when you need them. No problem, I know this. I’m about to have my second of the could-have-been-disasters.
I leave the apartment, and it’s totally dark, but I can see the lighted switch on the wall to turn the light on. It’s just to the left when I come out the door. Unfortunately, I forget that there is a step there, and it’s too dark to see it. Yes, once again you can see what’s coming, I trip on the step and go right down on my knees, plus my hands hit again. It’s three nights since my first fall. I immediately think, OMG, tomorrow I’m not even going to be able to walk! And my left hand especially isn’t helped! I’m really not a clumsy person, I don’t go around falling. I’ve never fallen in Italy and can’t remember the last time I fell anywhere! Two totally freaky falls. Much to my surprise, the next morning, although the bruises on my knees from the fall are sore, my joints are no worse than they usually are after all that walking and climbing. I have no explanation for this! Once again, although my hand is even more sore now, it could have been a lot worse. It could have been broken!
Now on to Friday: The next day, I want to go to Santo Stefano Rotundo and Santa Maria in Dominica, which are close to each other, so after I get some strawberries, I head over to get the bus. This is one time when I have a little trouble with the buses. Really my own fault. Without going into a lot of detail about that, I don’t get to those places and end up at the Fiori Imperiali stop and see that side of the Forum. No problem, I’m coming back here tonight, so at least I know exactly where I’ll be going! I go the back way up to the Campodoglio, and this is good. I sit in the sun for a while on the ledge in front of the Senate building, then go around the back to see one of my favorite views. If you are facing the Senate building and go to the right around the back of the building, there is this fabulous view of the Forum and part of the Colosseum. I love this view, and if I didn’t make it to my original destination, that’s OK, because I’m seeing one of my favorite things. I realize that, although I’ve been in this spot a few times, I don’t have a picture of myself here, so I ask a lady to take my picture.
I walk back out past the statues of Castor & Pollux, down the stairs to Via d. Teatro, and want some lunch. As usual, I pick the first convenient place and have a sandwich and glass of wine at Caffee del Teatro, 9€. This is one of those places where the same meal would have been cheaper if I hadn’t sat down at a table, but I want to sit down. Actually, I need to sit down! It’s worth it to me to spend a few extra Euro to sit and relax with my lunch.
I decide to walk back through Trastavere, something I always enjoy, so I walk down past the Theater of Marcellus and over Ponte Fabricio on my way there. On the Isolo Tiberna, I stop at a tiny gelato shop and have the most amazing gelato, a scoop of cinnamon and a scoop of Pinolata (pine nuts). Mmmm...has to be among the best gelato I’ve ever had! I continue on over Ponte Cestio and wander back through Trastavere. Usually, I stop to sit in Piazza S. Sonnino, but there is some sort of art or craft show set up. I can’t really tell, because the booths aren’t open, but on the other side of the booths are chairs set up for a concert, so I can sit there instead. I just relax and then wander on down Via d. Lungaretta to Piazza Santa Maria in Trastavere and eventually back through Campo de’ Fiori towards my apartment. There’s a small shop in Via d. Giubbonari that I’ve been to before and I find a top I like there.
After putting my feet up for a while and then changing for dinner, I catch the bus back over to the Mamertine Prison to see “The History of Rome – Part I,” which is performed by the Miracle Players. It’s a very informal setup, sort of a slapstick, funny version of Rome’s history. Very fun. The steps facing the performance are full. While waiting for the show to start, there is a bride & groom having their pictures taken with the Forum in the background. What a great backdrop, but she’s going back and forth, and the bottom of her wedding dress and the train are filthy. She doesn’t seem the least bit concerned about it, though, so I guess it’s OK!
I enjoy the show very much, and what a great way to introduce history to kids. There are just five performers, so they each play many parts. Lots of murder and mayhem, but it’s definitely a comedy! It’s performed at 7:30 pm every Friday from June 20 to August 8 and is free. They do take donations. Another interesting thing...in order to get permission from the city to perform, they had to prove that they had a membership, so they pass around sheets for people to sign up with their email. Membership is free, because they’re really doing it to comply with the law.
I take the bus back and decide to return to Rotondo for dinner. I’ve been thinking about that Spaghetti Carbonara all week! I order that again, and it’s delicious. With water and ½ bottle of Frascati, it’s 22€. Time for my Limoncello in the Piazza Navona! Also, I have a friend who is an artist there. When I was there in February, I asked him to do a painting for me of the Neptune Fountain at the northern end of the Piazza Navona with the square behind it, and he’s bringing it tonight. It’s wonderful! Just what I wanted, with beautiful detailed sculptures and the great shades of terra cotta on the buildings behind it. Of course, I have a lot of his paintings, so he knows what I like. I can’t believe I only have one more day in Rome!
Almost done...I'll finish later!
The tour ran longer than advertised, and it’s close to 8:00 pm when I get back to the apartment. I have to put up my feet for a little while, so after that and getting a shower and changing for dinner, it’s after 9:00 before I leave to go to dinner. Anyone who has stayed in an apartment in Italy knows that there are not lights on in the hall all the time. However, there are light switches with little lights on them so you can see them in the dark and turn the lights on when you need them. No problem, I know this. I’m about to have my second of the could-have-been-disasters.
I leave the apartment, and it’s totally dark, but I can see the lighted switch on the wall to turn the light on. It’s just to the left when I come out the door. Unfortunately, I forget that there is a step there, and it’s too dark to see it. Yes, once again you can see what’s coming, I trip on the step and go right down on my knees, plus my hands hit again. It’s three nights since my first fall. I immediately think, OMG, tomorrow I’m not even going to be able to walk! And my left hand especially isn’t helped! I’m really not a clumsy person, I don’t go around falling. I’ve never fallen in Italy and can’t remember the last time I fell anywhere! Two totally freaky falls. Much to my surprise, the next morning, although the bruises on my knees from the fall are sore, my joints are no worse than they usually are after all that walking and climbing. I have no explanation for this! Once again, although my hand is even more sore now, it could have been a lot worse. It could have been broken!
Now on to Friday: The next day, I want to go to Santo Stefano Rotundo and Santa Maria in Dominica, which are close to each other, so after I get some strawberries, I head over to get the bus. This is one time when I have a little trouble with the buses. Really my own fault. Without going into a lot of detail about that, I don’t get to those places and end up at the Fiori Imperiali stop and see that side of the Forum. No problem, I’m coming back here tonight, so at least I know exactly where I’ll be going! I go the back way up to the Campodoglio, and this is good. I sit in the sun for a while on the ledge in front of the Senate building, then go around the back to see one of my favorite views. If you are facing the Senate building and go to the right around the back of the building, there is this fabulous view of the Forum and part of the Colosseum. I love this view, and if I didn’t make it to my original destination, that’s OK, because I’m seeing one of my favorite things.
I realize that, although I’ve been in this spot a few times, I don’t have a picture of myself here, so I ask a lady to take my picture.I walk back out past the statues of Castor & Pollux, down the stairs to Via d. Teatro, and want some lunch. As usual, I pick the first convenient place and have a sandwich and glass of wine at Caffee del Teatro, 9€. This is one of those places where the same meal would have been cheaper if I hadn’t sat down at a table, but I want to sit down. Actually, I need to sit down! It’s worth it to me to spend a few extra Euro to sit and relax with my lunch.
I decide to walk back through Trastavere, something I always enjoy, so I walk down past the Theater of Marcellus and over Ponte Fabricio on my way there. On the Isolo Tiberna, I stop at a tiny gelato shop and have the most amazing gelato, a scoop of cinnamon and a scoop of Pinolata (pine nuts). Mmmm...has to be among the best gelato I’ve ever had! I continue on over Ponte Cestio and wander back through Trastavere. Usually, I stop to sit in Piazza S. Sonnino, but there is some sort of art or craft show set up. I can’t really tell, because the booths aren’t open, but on the other side of the booths are chairs set up for a concert, so I can sit there instead. I just relax and then wander on down Via d. Lungaretta to Piazza Santa Maria in Trastavere and eventually back through Campo de’ Fiori towards my apartment. There’s a small shop in Via d. Giubbonari that I’ve been to before and I find a top I like there.
After putting my feet up for a while and then changing for dinner, I catch the bus back over to the Mamertine Prison to see “The History of Rome – Part I,” which is performed by the Miracle Players. It’s a very informal setup, sort of a slapstick, funny version of Rome’s history. Very fun. The steps facing the performance are full. While waiting for the show to start, there is a bride & groom having their pictures taken with the Forum in the background. What a great backdrop, but she’s going back and forth, and the bottom of her wedding dress and the train are filthy. She doesn’t seem the least bit concerned about it, though, so I guess it’s OK!
I enjoy the show very much, and what a great way to introduce history to kids. There are just five performers, so they each play many parts. Lots of murder and mayhem,
but it’s definitely a comedy! It’s performed at 7:30 pm every Friday from June 20 to August 8 and is free. They do take donations. Another interesting thing...in order to get permission from the city to perform, they had to prove that they had a membership, so they pass around sheets for people to sign up with their email. Membership is free, because they’re really doing it to comply with the law.I take the bus back and decide to return to Rotondo for dinner. I’ve been thinking about that Spaghetti Carbonara all week! I order that again, and it’s delicious. With water and ½ bottle of Frascati, it’s 22€. Time for my Limoncello in the Piazza Navona! Also, I have a friend who is an artist there. When I was there in February, I asked him to do a painting for me of the Neptune Fountain at the northern end of the Piazza Navona with the square behind it, and he’s bringing it tonight. It’s wonderful! Just what I wanted, with beautiful detailed sculptures and the great shades of terra cotta on the buildings behind it. Of course, I have a lot of his paintings, so he knows what I like. I can’t believe I only have one more day in Rome!
Almost done...I'll finish later!
Aug 30th, 2008, 01:09 PM
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You make me want to travel alone! You are free to do so much more. Will be in Rome in October--can hardly wait. Of course, I do not know most of the places you mentioned, but I will love Rome. It is our 4th time to go there, but we focus on other places. This year we will go to Sicily first, then work our way back up to Naples, Capri, AC, and other areas before returning to Rome. You make it sound so lovely. Wish we had more time there.
