A Trip Report: Springtime in Italy - May 9 to June 2, 2011
Jun 29th, 2011, 06:27 AM
#22
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 3,654
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
2010 - I am so glad I found your very comprehensive Trip Report! We are planning another trip to Europe in 2012 and this time I want to see Venice. Could you answer these questions - I would really appreciate it:
Where can I find your ealier Trip Report on Venice Sept 2009?
As first timers I would need to read it!
Is the water taxi the only expensive way to get to your hotel and was this your second visit to the Locando Orseolo? - it sounds like it.
Thanks so much,
Tod
Where can I find your ealier Trip Report on Venice Sept 2009?
As first timers I would need to read it!
Is the water taxi the only expensive way to get to your hotel and was this your second visit to the Locando Orseolo? - it sounds like it.
Thanks so much,
Tod
Jun 29th, 2011, 09:16 AM
#23
Original Poster
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,209
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks everyone! Glad this trip report is helpful for those who are planning an up-coming trip and perhaps, it's an entertaining bit of reading for others!
<b>sarge56</b>: Yes, one of my own concerns is that I will 'run out of steam' mid-way through the report! When I start writing in point form, you will know why!
<b>tod</b>: To find my 2009 trip report, just click on my name.
Re: water taxi - It is expensive but it is also quick & direct (barring high tide) to get to the Locanda Orseolo which has canal access. (And yes, that was second time we stayed at the L/O.) You'll have to check with your hotel to see if a water taxi can take you directly there.
An alternative is to take an Alilaguna. We used this option on our first trip. As a start, you can find out more about it on the link below.
www.venicelink.com
There are overland options which are less expensive.
Since it's your first trip to Venice, I would recommend you approach Venice by boat (water taxi or Alilaguna). It's an incredible experience!
Have fun planning your trip!
<b>sarge56</b>: Yes, one of my own concerns is that I will 'run out of steam' mid-way through the report! When I start writing in point form, you will know why!
<b>tod</b>: To find my 2009 trip report, just click on my name.
Re: water taxi - It is expensive but it is also quick & direct (barring high tide) to get to the Locanda Orseolo which has canal access. (And yes, that was second time we stayed at the L/O.) You'll have to check with your hotel to see if a water taxi can take you directly there.
An alternative is to take an Alilaguna. We used this option on our first trip. As a start, you can find out more about it on the link below.
www.venicelink.com
There are overland options which are less expensive.
Since it's your first trip to Venice, I would recommend you approach Venice by boat (water taxi or Alilaguna). It's an incredible experience!
Have fun planning your trip!
Jun 29th, 2011, 01:17 PM
#24
Original Poster
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,209
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
<b>Saturday, May 14th - From Venice to Bevagna</b>
We took the #1 vaporetto from the Rialto stop to Piazzale Roma. It was a short walk to the Avis office. We were processed quickly & our car, a blue Lancia Musa was brought out from the parking garage. We had 20 minutes left on the parking ticket to load our luggage into the trunk, do a quick visual check of the car, adjust the mirrors, set up the GPS, open up the <i>Michelin Tourist & Motoring Atlas</i>, buckle up & exit! By 10:30, we were on the road to <b>Bevagna</b>!
It took us 5 hours to reach Bevagna, mostly on the auto strada. We made one stop at an Auto Grill for gas & lunch. When we passed Perugia & drove by Assisi, we knew that we were getting close!
The GPS directed us to enter Bevagna through Porta Foligno. We were told that we could drive directly to our hotel <b>Palazzo Brunamonti</b> (www.brunamonti.com) at Corso G. Matteotti,79; drop off our luggage; and receive parking instructions. Unfortunately, the street was blocked off just short of the hotel & we were forced to turn onto a narrow side road. At the end of the road, there was a one-hour parking lot. So, we parked the car & rolled our bags to the hotel. Ah, but there was a trick! The entrance to the hotel was not at the front door on Corso G. Matteotti. It was in fact at the back of the hotel according to the plaque beside the door! We must have looked puzzled because two elderly gentlemen gestured for us to follow them. One fellow pointed excitedly with his cane as he stood at the top of the alley at the side of the hotel. It was apparent that we needed to go down the lane to the end of the building & turn left! "Grazie!" we said in unison! Midway down, I turned around to look back. The old gentleman was still standing there and he gave me one last thrust with his cane directing me to continue on. "Grazie! I called to him and waved! With their precise instructions, we found the entrance! Perhaps it was a good thing that the street was blocked off! It was probably easier to arrive at the hotel on foot rather than by car!
We checked in, took our bags to our very large, corner room (#26) and went to re-park our car in an unrestricted lot just outside the town wall. Upon our return, Katia gave us a tour of the hotel: the living room, the breakfast room and the area which was being renovated - the new front entrance & lobby! With its curved stone walls & ceiling, it was going to be lovely! We settled in & had a nap in our cool bedroom. There's something to be said about the stone construction of an old palazzo!
Katia called <b>La Trattoria di Oscar</b> www.latrattoriadioscar.it) on our behalf to reserve a table for dinner tonight. We were a little early but Filippo was waiting for us! There were two tables already set up on the patio. We chose the one by the planter filled with cheerful red geraniums! We had: small plates of fresh cow's milk cheese with lentils served with Filippo's bread, a platter of black pork salumi, cheeses + tomatoes, raviollini stuffed with cheese & topped with a rich ragu / roasted chicken leg, broad beans with chick peas & boiled potatoes, panna cotta with dill flowers & olive oil / apricot ice cream with brandy. We had red wine by the glass tonight. Our meals were simple but exquisite! We were treated to an exciting taste experience of fresh flavours & surprising combinations! Already, we were planning to return to La Trattoria di Oscar ... possibly on Monday!
We took the #1 vaporetto from the Rialto stop to Piazzale Roma. It was a short walk to the Avis office. We were processed quickly & our car, a blue Lancia Musa was brought out from the parking garage. We had 20 minutes left on the parking ticket to load our luggage into the trunk, do a quick visual check of the car, adjust the mirrors, set up the GPS, open up the <i>Michelin Tourist & Motoring Atlas</i>, buckle up & exit! By 10:30, we were on the road to <b>Bevagna</b>!
It took us 5 hours to reach Bevagna, mostly on the auto strada. We made one stop at an Auto Grill for gas & lunch. When we passed Perugia & drove by Assisi, we knew that we were getting close!
The GPS directed us to enter Bevagna through Porta Foligno. We were told that we could drive directly to our hotel <b>Palazzo Brunamonti</b> (www.brunamonti.com) at Corso G. Matteotti,79; drop off our luggage; and receive parking instructions. Unfortunately, the street was blocked off just short of the hotel & we were forced to turn onto a narrow side road. At the end of the road, there was a one-hour parking lot. So, we parked the car & rolled our bags to the hotel. Ah, but there was a trick! The entrance to the hotel was not at the front door on Corso G. Matteotti. It was in fact at the back of the hotel according to the plaque beside the door! We must have looked puzzled because two elderly gentlemen gestured for us to follow them. One fellow pointed excitedly with his cane as he stood at the top of the alley at the side of the hotel. It was apparent that we needed to go down the lane to the end of the building & turn left! "Grazie!" we said in unison! Midway down, I turned around to look back. The old gentleman was still standing there and he gave me one last thrust with his cane directing me to continue on. "Grazie! I called to him and waved! With their precise instructions, we found the entrance! Perhaps it was a good thing that the street was blocked off! It was probably easier to arrive at the hotel on foot rather than by car!
We checked in, took our bags to our very large, corner room (#26) and went to re-park our car in an unrestricted lot just outside the town wall. Upon our return, Katia gave us a tour of the hotel: the living room, the breakfast room and the area which was being renovated - the new front entrance & lobby! With its curved stone walls & ceiling, it was going to be lovely! We settled in & had a nap in our cool bedroom. There's something to be said about the stone construction of an old palazzo!
Katia called <b>La Trattoria di Oscar</b> www.latrattoriadioscar.it) on our behalf to reserve a table for dinner tonight. We were a little early but Filippo was waiting for us! There were two tables already set up on the patio. We chose the one by the planter filled with cheerful red geraniums! We had: small plates of fresh cow's milk cheese with lentils served with Filippo's bread, a platter of black pork salumi, cheeses + tomatoes, raviollini stuffed with cheese & topped with a rich ragu / roasted chicken leg, broad beans with chick peas & boiled potatoes, panna cotta with dill flowers & olive oil / apricot ice cream with brandy. We had red wine by the glass tonight. Our meals were simple but exquisite! We were treated to an exciting taste experience of fresh flavours & surprising combinations! Already, we were planning to return to La Trattoria di Oscar ... possibly on Monday!
Jun 30th, 2011, 08:19 AM
#26
Original Poster
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,209
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi! annhig:
When we researched the Umbria part of our trip, Bevagna 'ticked' all our boxes:
- location: central to the places we wanted to visit
- easy access: in & out of town for day trips
- parking: at the hotel or easy, available public parking
- a 'Goldilocks' town: size/population - not too small/not
too big/just right
- some choices for accomodations
- restaurants: we like to park the car at the end of the day
and walk to a restaurant for dinner
We found that Bevagna was a wonderful place to stay. It was pretty. It was a town with some historical interest. Lovely people! I think it's a place on the verge of being 'discovered'!
Our dinner at Oscar cost €61.
When we researched the Umbria part of our trip, Bevagna 'ticked' all our boxes:
- location: central to the places we wanted to visit
- easy access: in & out of town for day trips
- parking: at the hotel or easy, available public parking
- a 'Goldilocks' town: size/population - not too small/not
too big/just right
- some choices for accomodations
- restaurants: we like to park the car at the end of the day
and walk to a restaurant for dinner
We found that Bevagna was a wonderful place to stay. It was pretty. It was a town with some historical interest. Lovely people! I think it's a place on the verge of being 'discovered'!
Our dinner at Oscar cost €61.
Jun 30th, 2011, 11:52 AM
#28
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 5,741
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
@Tod- I travel on a budget and have never taken an expensive water taxi.
As you depart the Venice airport luggage retrieval area, to your left is the ticket windows for other transportation. We bought our 3-day vaporetto pass there and it included a ticket for the bus that takes you directly to Piazzale Roma. Normally E3 or E4. 30-minute ride and much less expensive than an E40-80 or more boatride. You can then use your vaporetto pass to take any number of rides along the canal, all included. Just an fyi if you would rather save your money for a better meal or shopping.
As you depart the Venice airport luggage retrieval area, to your left is the ticket windows for other transportation. We bought our 3-day vaporetto pass there and it included a ticket for the bus that takes you directly to Piazzale Roma. Normally E3 or E4. 30-minute ride and much less expensive than an E40-80 or more boatride. You can then use your vaporetto pass to take any number of rides along the canal, all included. Just an fyi if you would rather save your money for a better meal or shopping.
Jun 30th, 2011, 04:07 PM
#31
Original Poster
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,209
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
<b>Sunday, May 15th</b>
After an ample breakfast & good strong cups of coffee, we grabbed the GPS, our trusty map & guide book, <i>Authentic Umbria - Touing Club of Italy</i> and set out on this sunny morning. But, were those ominous dark rain clouds we saw lurking in the distance?
As we walked along Corso Matteotti towards Piazza Silvestri, we passed by three well-worn wooden chairs placed just outside a doorway. Two had saggy, blue cushions & the third was bare. On the back of each chair, the following names were printed in large block letters: E-DE-JOVANNE, E-DE-ANGILINO-ER-POSTINO and E-DE-CINCINO-ER-FERROVIERE. We wondered who would be so special to have designated seats just for them. We also wondered if two belonged to the old-timers who directed us to the hotel yesterday. (It would be after we returned home & put the names into an on-line translator that we learned: Angilino was a postman; Cincino was a railway man; and Jovanne, well, his job was being Jovanne!)
We passed through a small Sunday market of antiques/old stuff & crafts in town on our way to the parking lot. At the bridge, we stopped to look at the river that runs beside Bevagna & flows into a <i>lavatoio</i>, a wash-house to do laundry!
The drive from Bevagna to <b>Spoleto</b> was very scenic. There seemed to be a photo-op at every turn: a gentle hill, a lovely green field, a grove of olive trees & wild red poppies which grew alongside the road. It was rustic yet beautiful.
We entered Spoleto through <b>Porta Garibaldi</b> and walked up Corso Garibaldi. Being Sunday, most shops were closed. We veered to the left, clambered up steep steps, passed by <b>Chiesa S. Nicolo</b> and continued to the 12th C Romanesque <b>Duomo</b>. The interior of the Duomo was large & impressive with its many side chapels and frescoes on the main altar. We made our way across the large <b>Piazza de Duomo</b> and climbed up the wide stone steps. At the top, we stopped to look back. This was definitely a vertical hill town! Our climb continued up to the <b>Rocca/fortress</b> & along a narrow road to a view point. From there we saw the <b>Ponte delle Tori</b>, an aqueduct/bridge which spans the deep gorge joining the Rocca to the hill of Monteluco. Its 9 pillars are connected by 10 arches. Made of limestone, the Ponte delle Tori was constructed about the 13th-14th C.
We stopped for lunch at a cafe/bar & sat in a spot protected from the brisk winds that began to blow. We shared a beautiful antipasto platter + a delicious composed salad. It was a bit too much food but we took our time & did our best!
Well, the dark clouds we saw earlier finally reached Spoleto & it began to rain! We were not dressed for this kind of weather so we made a dash for the car! Thank goodnes we were wearing quick-dry tops. With a little heat and the car fan on 'high', it wasn't long before we were dry! When the skies opened up even more, we decided to cut our outing short. Good decision, for a severe thunder storm rolled over Bevagna this afternoon. Even the pigeons perched out of the rain under the protective eaves of a building across the lane from us!
It was disappointing that we didn't see more of Spoleto as planned. We hoped to find time in the next few days to return.
Fortunately, the rain slowed down in time for dinner! We had reservations at <b>Ristorante Osteria Il Podesta</b> (www.ristoranteilpodesta.com). There were 2 large tables with Italian families out for Sunday dinner which created a convivial atmosphere! We enjoyed: vegetable soup with spelt / mixed bruschetta, duck with apples & roasted potatoes / grilled beef with fennel and a demi-bottle of Sagrantino Apella. No dessert - we were full!!! But, we could always come back another night, couldn't we?
Under cloudy skies, we went for a short walk to the Piazza Silvestri. There were few people out. The town was quiet tonight.
After an ample breakfast & good strong cups of coffee, we grabbed the GPS, our trusty map & guide book, <i>Authentic Umbria - Touing Club of Italy</i> and set out on this sunny morning. But, were those ominous dark rain clouds we saw lurking in the distance?
As we walked along Corso Matteotti towards Piazza Silvestri, we passed by three well-worn wooden chairs placed just outside a doorway. Two had saggy, blue cushions & the third was bare. On the back of each chair, the following names were printed in large block letters: E-DE-JOVANNE, E-DE-ANGILINO-ER-POSTINO and E-DE-CINCINO-ER-FERROVIERE. We wondered who would be so special to have designated seats just for them. We also wondered if two belonged to the old-timers who directed us to the hotel yesterday. (It would be after we returned home & put the names into an on-line translator that we learned: Angilino was a postman; Cincino was a railway man; and Jovanne, well, his job was being Jovanne!)
We passed through a small Sunday market of antiques/old stuff & crafts in town on our way to the parking lot. At the bridge, we stopped to look at the river that runs beside Bevagna & flows into a <i>lavatoio</i>, a wash-house to do laundry!
The drive from Bevagna to <b>Spoleto</b> was very scenic. There seemed to be a photo-op at every turn: a gentle hill, a lovely green field, a grove of olive trees & wild red poppies which grew alongside the road. It was rustic yet beautiful.
We entered Spoleto through <b>Porta Garibaldi</b> and walked up Corso Garibaldi. Being Sunday, most shops were closed. We veered to the left, clambered up steep steps, passed by <b>Chiesa S. Nicolo</b> and continued to the 12th C Romanesque <b>Duomo</b>. The interior of the Duomo was large & impressive with its many side chapels and frescoes on the main altar. We made our way across the large <b>Piazza de Duomo</b> and climbed up the wide stone steps. At the top, we stopped to look back. This was definitely a vertical hill town! Our climb continued up to the <b>Rocca/fortress</b> & along a narrow road to a view point. From there we saw the <b>Ponte delle Tori</b>, an aqueduct/bridge which spans the deep gorge joining the Rocca to the hill of Monteluco. Its 9 pillars are connected by 10 arches. Made of limestone, the Ponte delle Tori was constructed about the 13th-14th C.
We stopped for lunch at a cafe/bar & sat in a spot protected from the brisk winds that began to blow. We shared a beautiful antipasto platter + a delicious composed salad. It was a bit too much food but we took our time & did our best!
Well, the dark clouds we saw earlier finally reached Spoleto & it began to rain! We were not dressed for this kind of weather so we made a dash for the car! Thank goodnes we were wearing quick-dry tops. With a little heat and the car fan on 'high', it wasn't long before we were dry! When the skies opened up even more, we decided to cut our outing short. Good decision, for a severe thunder storm rolled over Bevagna this afternoon. Even the pigeons perched out of the rain under the protective eaves of a building across the lane from us!
It was disappointing that we didn't see more of Spoleto as planned. We hoped to find time in the next few days to return.
Fortunately, the rain slowed down in time for dinner! We had reservations at <b>Ristorante Osteria Il Podesta</b> (www.ristoranteilpodesta.com). There were 2 large tables with Italian families out for Sunday dinner which created a convivial atmosphere! We enjoyed: vegetable soup with spelt / mixed bruschetta, duck with apples & roasted potatoes / grilled beef with fennel and a demi-bottle of Sagrantino Apella. No dessert - we were full!!! But, we could always come back another night, couldn't we?
Under cloudy skies, we went for a short walk to the Piazza Silvestri. There were few people out. The town was quiet tonight.
Jul 1st, 2011, 04:07 PM
#33
Original Poster
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,209
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
<b>Monday,May 16th</b>
With rain predicted for this afternoon, we thought it would be prudent to take our jackets & wear appropriate footwear for our trip to <b>Assisi</b>. I had anticipated parking in this popular town might be challenging. So, in preparation, I printed out directions to the <b>Mojano Parking Garage</b> (www.mojanoassisiparking.com), a modern, underground paid parking lot. We were all set ... or so we thought!
Typically, DH who is driving & I have this conversation whenever we approach a T-intersection in the road:
DH (excitedly): Which way do I go?
DW (slightly panicked): Oh, I don't know!
DH (exasperated): Well, you should! You're holding the map!
DW (desperately): Okay, okay, turn ... left!!!
So, when we reached the base of Assisi, we turned left! The road wound its way up. At least we were going in the right direction! <b>Parcheggio Matteotti</b> came up suddenly and we made a quick decision to park the car here!
In a small structure where the parking attendant sat, there was a large city map mounted on the wall which marked "You are here". It was a good thing because the map in the guide book I brought was hopelessly inadequate! We followed a sign to "Centro" and we came out onto <b>Piazza San Rufino</b> where the <b>Cattedrale di San Rufino</b> sits. We slipped into the cathedral and momentarily escaped the swirling winds.
Like most visitors to Assisi, we were here to see the <b>Basilica di San Francesco</b> but a wrong turn led us up & down a multitude of lanes & steps. Along the way, we were treated to pretty views, lovely homes with gardens & planters filled with colourful summer annuals; and a shrine which was tucked into a corner where two lanes converged. So, we weren't really lost. We were just being treated to some of Assisi's hidden treasures! Well, okay ... we were lost and in desperation, we asked a postman for directions to the basilica! In Italian, he explained that we needed to go straight & then turn right. (DH & I took a beginner Italian class last fall during which we learned some basic vocabulary & expressions. Today, it came in handy!)
As we approached the 13th C Basilica di San Francesco, we were struck by the positon of the basilica and the white-washed brick facade with its splendid rose window. Even as a non-Catholic, I couldn't help but feel I was entering a deeply spiritual place: the upper & lower churches and the crypt of St. Francis. It truly was a special experience!
We made our way up the crowded main street of town past shops, cafes & a bakery with an enticing window of pasteries! We visited the <b>Church of Santa Maria Sopra Minerva</b> with its exquisite interior! We were able to find our way back to our car directly and on our way out of Assisi, we drove by the Mojano Parking Garage! Guess we should have turned right instead of left!!!
<b>Deruta</b> which is known for its ceramics was our next stop. We only entered a few shops where we saw beautiful pieces decorated with traditional Umbrian designs. We didn't buy any ceramics in Deruta, just lunch!
We decided to go to <b>Redibis</b> (www.redibis.it) for dinner by default - Osar was closed due to the chef's illness; Ottavius was closed on Mondays; and we had just been to Podesta the night before! What a superb choice that was!
The Redibis is located in an ancient Roman theater. The setting is stunning and the decor is clean & smart. In one corner, there is a large, open fireplace.
Here's what we had:
- 2 glasses of dry white wine
- a surprise in a tin box - bruschetta with tomatoes
- a bottle of Montefalco red wine
- the tasting menu (€45 per person):
> beef carpaccio
> gnocchi with tomato, mushroom, bacon & marjoram
> lamb with artichokes
> creme with dark chocolate and served with grain in
sweet milk
The food was exquisite and the service was impeccable! This was fine dining!
It left us wondering how could there be so many good restaurants in such a small town. And we had one more night in Bevagna!
With rain predicted for this afternoon, we thought it would be prudent to take our jackets & wear appropriate footwear for our trip to <b>Assisi</b>. I had anticipated parking in this popular town might be challenging. So, in preparation, I printed out directions to the <b>Mojano Parking Garage</b> (www.mojanoassisiparking.com), a modern, underground paid parking lot. We were all set ... or so we thought!
Typically, DH who is driving & I have this conversation whenever we approach a T-intersection in the road:
DH (excitedly): Which way do I go?
DW (slightly panicked): Oh, I don't know!
DH (exasperated): Well, you should! You're holding the map!
DW (desperately): Okay, okay, turn ... left!!!
So, when we reached the base of Assisi, we turned left! The road wound its way up. At least we were going in the right direction! <b>Parcheggio Matteotti</b> came up suddenly and we made a quick decision to park the car here!
In a small structure where the parking attendant sat, there was a large city map mounted on the wall which marked "You are here". It was a good thing because the map in the guide book I brought was hopelessly inadequate! We followed a sign to "Centro" and we came out onto <b>Piazza San Rufino</b> where the <b>Cattedrale di San Rufino</b> sits. We slipped into the cathedral and momentarily escaped the swirling winds.
Like most visitors to Assisi, we were here to see the <b>Basilica di San Francesco</b> but a wrong turn led us up & down a multitude of lanes & steps. Along the way, we were treated to pretty views, lovely homes with gardens & planters filled with colourful summer annuals; and a shrine which was tucked into a corner where two lanes converged. So, we weren't really lost. We were just being treated to some of Assisi's hidden treasures! Well, okay ... we were lost and in desperation, we asked a postman for directions to the basilica! In Italian, he explained that we needed to go straight & then turn right. (DH & I took a beginner Italian class last fall during which we learned some basic vocabulary & expressions. Today, it came in handy!)
As we approached the 13th C Basilica di San Francesco, we were struck by the positon of the basilica and the white-washed brick facade with its splendid rose window. Even as a non-Catholic, I couldn't help but feel I was entering a deeply spiritual place: the upper & lower churches and the crypt of St. Francis. It truly was a special experience!
We made our way up the crowded main street of town past shops, cafes & a bakery with an enticing window of pasteries! We visited the <b>Church of Santa Maria Sopra Minerva</b> with its exquisite interior! We were able to find our way back to our car directly and on our way out of Assisi, we drove by the Mojano Parking Garage! Guess we should have turned right instead of left!!!
<b>Deruta</b> which is known for its ceramics was our next stop. We only entered a few shops where we saw beautiful pieces decorated with traditional Umbrian designs. We didn't buy any ceramics in Deruta, just lunch!
We decided to go to <b>Redibis</b> (www.redibis.it) for dinner by default - Osar was closed due to the chef's illness; Ottavius was closed on Mondays; and we had just been to Podesta the night before! What a superb choice that was!
The Redibis is located in an ancient Roman theater. The setting is stunning and the decor is clean & smart. In one corner, there is a large, open fireplace.
Here's what we had:
- 2 glasses of dry white wine
- a surprise in a tin box - bruschetta with tomatoes
- a bottle of Montefalco red wine
- the tasting menu (€45 per person):
> beef carpaccio
> gnocchi with tomato, mushroom, bacon & marjoram
> lamb with artichokes
> creme with dark chocolate and served with grain in
sweet milk
The food was exquisite and the service was impeccable! This was fine dining!
It left us wondering how could there be so many good restaurants in such a small town. And we had one more night in Bevagna!
Jul 1st, 2011, 04:38 PM
#34
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
terrific TR!!! love your details and LOL'd reading abt you and your DH and the directions: sounds QUITE familiar...
we are going mid October and I'm afraid I'll often be in the same situation as the "navi-guesser" .
hope you continue this TR: it's terrific and I'm taking lots of notes.
we are going mid October and I'm afraid I'll often be in the same situation as the "navi-guesser" .
hope you continue this TR: it's terrific and I'm taking lots of notes.
Jul 1st, 2011, 04:43 PM
#35
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
we also stayed at Locanda Orseolo in Venice in 2008: LOVED the place and its owners as well (we had same room you had)
BEST breakfasts ever and incredibly thoughtful hosts! brings back happy memories reading abt Venice. We're not going there this time (heading south to the AC) and spending lots of time in Tuscany as you did.
BEST breakfasts ever and incredibly thoughtful hosts! brings back happy memories reading abt Venice. We're not going there this time (heading south to the AC) and spending lots of time in Tuscany as you did.
Jul 2nd, 2011, 09:04 AM
#38
Original Poster
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,209
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
<b>Tuesday, May 17th</b>
This morning was dedicated to <b>Bevagna</b>!
HIGHLIGHTS:
o churches: Basilica of S. Silvestro (Umbro-Romanesque), Collegiate Church of S. Michele Arcangelo (late 12th/early 13th C), Chiesa Di S. Agostino (14th C with Umbrian School frescoes), Chiesa de San Francesco (with electric heaters!)
o the narrow lanes, interesting front doors to homes & unusual door knockers, beautiful flower displays in containers (I took many photos of container plantings to remind & inspire me when I got home!)
o walked along part of the ancient wall surrounding the town & through the gate at P. Garibaldi
o Circuito Cittadino (€5 for 3 sights; 2 of which we were taken through): Museo Civico, Teatro Torti & Edificio Termale
o pizza lunch at <b>Miccheletto</b> on Largo Gramsci, 1
We discovered that there are more churches & restaurants than commerce in Bevagna!
In the afternoon, we made a dash to nearby <b>Spello</b>. We just wandered the streets & enjoyed the views from this pretty town. We picked up some olive wood cooking spoons, a paddle & tongs for a gift - beautiful and practical!
When it was time to leave, we couldn't remember the direction to the parking lot located outside the city wall! It is so rare that DH & I have a 'senior's moment' at the same time! Even after a visit to the Tourist Office to check a good map of the town, we were still uncertain! Short of walking the entire outside perimeter of the wall, how hard could it be? Spello is another vertical hill town so our search was exhausting! With a bit of luck & time, we eventually found the lot! We were happy to be in our little car with the air conditioner blasting and to be heading home to familiar territory!
<b>Note to self</b>: Pay attention to where we leave the car & where we come into town. Take photos of the car park & street signs, if necessary! ;-)
Tonight we had dinner at <b>Nuovo Ottavius</b> (Via del Gonfalone, 4c). The restaurant is located on an ancient site. The attractive dining room has a vaulted stone ceiling & it feels cozy. Despite our limited Italian, we were able to communicate with the owner & server. Put it this way ... we would not go hungry tonight! We enjoyed: bruschetta mista, roast pork with side dishes of spinach & roasted potatoes and a bottle of Montefalco red wine. It was like <i>nonna's</i> home cooking - delicious & comforting! However, the ending was a bit disappointing. The panna cotta was not to our liking.
The restaurant was filled with mostly Italian-speaking diners. The atmosphere was lively & fun! The service was well-paced & unhurried! What a great way to celebrate our last night in Bevagna!
We loved our stay in Bevagna! It's a quiet town where ordinary people live, work & go out at night. Life felt relaxed & easy here!
Next: Tuscany - Pienza & the beautiful Val D'Orcia
This morning was dedicated to <b>Bevagna</b>!
HIGHLIGHTS:
o churches: Basilica of S. Silvestro (Umbro-Romanesque), Collegiate Church of S. Michele Arcangelo (late 12th/early 13th C), Chiesa Di S. Agostino (14th C with Umbrian School frescoes), Chiesa de San Francesco (with electric heaters!)
o the narrow lanes, interesting front doors to homes & unusual door knockers, beautiful flower displays in containers (I took many photos of container plantings to remind & inspire me when I got home!)
o walked along part of the ancient wall surrounding the town & through the gate at P. Garibaldi
o Circuito Cittadino (€5 for 3 sights; 2 of which we were taken through): Museo Civico, Teatro Torti & Edificio Termale
o pizza lunch at <b>Miccheletto</b> on Largo Gramsci, 1
We discovered that there are more churches & restaurants than commerce in Bevagna!
In the afternoon, we made a dash to nearby <b>Spello</b>. We just wandered the streets & enjoyed the views from this pretty town. We picked up some olive wood cooking spoons, a paddle & tongs for a gift - beautiful and practical!
When it was time to leave, we couldn't remember the direction to the parking lot located outside the city wall! It is so rare that DH & I have a 'senior's moment' at the same time! Even after a visit to the Tourist Office to check a good map of the town, we were still uncertain! Short of walking the entire outside perimeter of the wall, how hard could it be? Spello is another vertical hill town so our search was exhausting! With a bit of luck & time, we eventually found the lot! We were happy to be in our little car with the air conditioner blasting and to be heading home to familiar territory!
<b>Note to self</b>: Pay attention to where we leave the car & where we come into town. Take photos of the car park & street signs, if necessary! ;-)
Tonight we had dinner at <b>Nuovo Ottavius</b> (Via del Gonfalone, 4c). The restaurant is located on an ancient site. The attractive dining room has a vaulted stone ceiling & it feels cozy. Despite our limited Italian, we were able to communicate with the owner & server. Put it this way ... we would not go hungry tonight! We enjoyed: bruschetta mista, roast pork with side dishes of spinach & roasted potatoes and a bottle of Montefalco red wine. It was like <i>nonna's</i> home cooking - delicious & comforting! However, the ending was a bit disappointing. The panna cotta was not to our liking.
The restaurant was filled with mostly Italian-speaking diners. The atmosphere was lively & fun! The service was well-paced & unhurried! What a great way to celebrate our last night in Bevagna!
We loved our stay in Bevagna! It's a quiet town where ordinary people live, work & go out at night. Life felt relaxed & easy here!
Next: Tuscany - Pienza & the beautiful Val D'Orcia
Jul 2nd, 2011, 05:49 PM
#39
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 5,741
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
2010, my cousin and I determined that on the next trip, we are taking sidewalk chalk so we can mark our way back to our apartment. hahaha Another good hint- take picture(s) with your cell phone of a nearby landmark or sign when exiting your car. Should help you get back to it. (Alternative is to video it. My camera has video option, some do not.)
Your adventure in dining sounds wonderful! Thanks for sharing! Can't wait to try some of these places myself!
Your adventure in dining sounds wonderful! Thanks for sharing! Can't wait to try some of these places myself!
Jul 2nd, 2011, 07:18 PM
#40
Original Poster
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,209
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks, everyone for hanging in there while my travel tale unfolds! I'm wondering if it's getting a bit 'tedious' to read with all the details. Thinking about changing up the format & compressing the information & stories for the Florence & Rome portions - that is, Where we stayed / What we did / Where we ate ... instead of a day-by-day account. Any feedback?
In the meantime, stay tuned for Pienza!
In the meantime, stay tuned for Pienza!
