A trip into the neonatal ward of Western civilization
Oct 21st, 2014, 04:28 AM
#1
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,411
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
A trip into the neonatal ward of Western civilization
We recently returned from a short but enjoyable trip to Greece, primarily Crete and Santorini—fulfilling a long-time interest in visiting these destinations. Given our respective workloads, this is may be a relatively brief report (by our standards), but we’ll try to hit the highlights and key impressions.
As always, this trip report and the photos are a collaborative effort, and we’ll both be adding to it as time permits.
<b>Who</b> (for those who don’t already know us): 50ish couple from Chicago; typically mid-range (not high end, not budget) travelers
<b>When</b>: October 2-13
<b>Why</b>: The Greek Islands—and particularly Santorini—have long been on our travel wish list. We’ve previously visited Athens and the Peloponnese (http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...r-go-ms-go.cfm ). I’ve also been to Delphi and some additional destinations on the Peloponnese way back when as part of one of those six-country high-school trips, about which I remember little except the social side of things…and how hot it was in June.
<b>Where and how</b>: We had a finite amount of time and, thus, a rather fast-paced itinerary. This included a 24-hour layover in Hamburg on the way (most available airline itineraries had us spending a night somewhere in Europe in order to get to Heraklion at a reasonable time of day). The itinerary:
• Hamburg: one night @ Radisson Blu Hamburg Airport
• Germanwings flight to Heraklion; rental car through Avis
• Chania, Crete: four nights @ Hanim Lounge & Studios, including visits to Elafonisi, Rethymno, and the Samaria Gorge
• Heraklion, Crete: one night @ Lato Boutique Hotel, including a visit to the Knossos Palace
• Ferry to Santorini
• Oia, Santorini: three nights @ Oia Suites, including visits to Fira/Firostefani/Imerovigli and Akrotiri
• Aegean flight to Athens
• Athens: one night @ Sofitel Athens Airport, primarily to set up for our early morning departure back to the US
Greece has often been called the “Cradle of Western Civilization”...but this specific part of Greece, home to the mysterious Minoan culture, which predates the Classical era by millennia, is more like the neonatal ward. This great historical legacy, plus the allure of the sunny climate, warm people, fresh food and the gorgeous blue sea, has placed Crete and Santorini near the top of our list for a long time. Our expectations were fairly high, and we’re happy to say they were met...and exceeded.
As always, this trip report and the photos are a collaborative effort, and we’ll both be adding to it as time permits.
<b>Who</b> (for those who don’t already know us): 50ish couple from Chicago; typically mid-range (not high end, not budget) travelers
<b>When</b>: October 2-13
<b>Why</b>: The Greek Islands—and particularly Santorini—have long been on our travel wish list. We’ve previously visited Athens and the Peloponnese (http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...r-go-ms-go.cfm ). I’ve also been to Delphi and some additional destinations on the Peloponnese way back when as part of one of those six-country high-school trips, about which I remember little except the social side of things…and how hot it was in June.
<b>Where and how</b>: We had a finite amount of time and, thus, a rather fast-paced itinerary. This included a 24-hour layover in Hamburg on the way (most available airline itineraries had us spending a night somewhere in Europe in order to get to Heraklion at a reasonable time of day). The itinerary:
• Hamburg: one night @ Radisson Blu Hamburg Airport
• Germanwings flight to Heraklion; rental car through Avis
• Chania, Crete: four nights @ Hanim Lounge & Studios, including visits to Elafonisi, Rethymno, and the Samaria Gorge
• Heraklion, Crete: one night @ Lato Boutique Hotel, including a visit to the Knossos Palace
• Ferry to Santorini
• Oia, Santorini: three nights @ Oia Suites, including visits to Fira/Firostefani/Imerovigli and Akrotiri
• Aegean flight to Athens
• Athens: one night @ Sofitel Athens Airport, primarily to set up for our early morning departure back to the US
Greece has often been called the “Cradle of Western Civilization”...but this specific part of Greece, home to the mysterious Minoan culture, which predates the Classical era by millennia, is more like the neonatal ward. This great historical legacy, plus the allure of the sunny climate, warm people, fresh food and the gorgeous blue sea, has placed Crete and Santorini near the top of our list for a long time. Our expectations were fairly high, and we’re happy to say they were met...and exceeded.
Oct 21st, 2014, 04:31 AM
#2
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,411
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
<b>Prelude</b>
Our original airline itinerary had us flying Chicago-Newark-Hamburg-Heraklio, with the connection at Newark being a scant 1:20 during early evening “rush hour.” We were a little nervous about that but willing to live with it until….
Less than a week before our departure, a fire at the “Chicago Center” air traffic control facility destroyed telecommunications capabilities and severely affected flights into and out of O’Hare, Midway and other nearby airports—causing delays expected to last for weeks. To make matters worse, our departure day was to be the first bad-weather day in Chicago under the "interim" ATC operations. We became very nervous.
United had a travel waiver in place due to the ATC issues, so the day before departure I called to see whether we might be able to change—with a preference of just changing our routing to Hamburg so we didn’t have to undo hotel and other arrangements at the last minute. At first, the agent wasn’t sure, as the policy didn’t allow her to change anything other than United-operated flights (and anything other than flying to Newark earlier in the day would have involved a partner airline). But she made three phone calls to sort out what she <b>could</b> do and was able to rebook us Chicago-Frankfurt-Hamburg. We slept much better the night before departure.
Oh, and that original Newark flight was boarding right across the concourse from our Frankfurt flight, and it departed about 45 minutes late. We may have made the connection, but it’s a good bet our luggage probably wouldn’t have.
Off, off and away…
Our original airline itinerary had us flying Chicago-Newark-Hamburg-Heraklio, with the connection at Newark being a scant 1:20 during early evening “rush hour.” We were a little nervous about that but willing to live with it until….
Less than a week before our departure, a fire at the “Chicago Center” air traffic control facility destroyed telecommunications capabilities and severely affected flights into and out of O’Hare, Midway and other nearby airports—causing delays expected to last for weeks. To make matters worse, our departure day was to be the first bad-weather day in Chicago under the "interim" ATC operations. We became very nervous.
United had a travel waiver in place due to the ATC issues, so the day before departure I called to see whether we might be able to change—with a preference of just changing our routing to Hamburg so we didn’t have to undo hotel and other arrangements at the last minute. At first, the agent wasn’t sure, as the policy didn’t allow her to change anything other than United-operated flights (and anything other than flying to Newark earlier in the day would have involved a partner airline). But she made three phone calls to sort out what she <b>could</b> do and was able to rebook us Chicago-Frankfurt-Hamburg. We slept much better the night before departure.
Oh, and that original Newark flight was boarding right across the concourse from our Frankfurt flight, and it departed about 45 minutes late. We may have made the connection, but it’s a good bet our luggage probably wouldn’t have.
Off, off and away…
Oct 21st, 2014, 04:38 AM
#3
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,411
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
<b>Hamburg</b>
We had no real agenda, other than to keep moving and stay awake after an overnight flight. Fortunately, it was a nice day, and we were able to spend all of it outdoors (one key to staying awake). From about 10 am until sundown, our wandering included:
• A round-trip harbor cruise on the public ferry—a nice way to see this historic and diverse working port; note that the one-day ticket (tageskarte) covered our train rides as well as the ferry ride
• The city center and the old town—passing by St. Michael’s church, the city hall (Rathaus), and various other buildings canals
• Some relaxation around the Binnenaslter, a man-made lake
• The Colonnaden
• Hafen City, which has a very interesting mix of old and new architecture
Overall, we found this central area very walk-able and well signed, with maps every so often. We were visiting on a public holiday (German Unity Day), so most stores were closed and people off work. After a cloudy start, it became a beautiful sunny day, and many families were gathering in public areas around the Binnenalster and in Hafen City.
We had little or no problems with language, until we started to enter St. Michael’s. Plenty of others were already inside, but we were waved off by a woman saying, “There is mess now! Big mess! Come later, please!” From what we observed, it looked just fine inside, but we didn’t argue the point and we left.
It was a minute later that we figured out that she said “mass.” Which made more sense.
Somewhere along the way, we ate lunch at the Hamburger Fischerstube at the recommendation of a Fodorite. Thank you! It was perfect for the occasion.
By sundown, jet lag was starting to get the better of us. We headed back to the hotel for light appetizers at the lobby bar—the highlight of which was watching the bartender’s reaction to another customer’s request for the bar’s “<i>best</i> rum (Ron Zacapa)…with Coke.”
All in all, we enjoyed our day in Hamburg. While not chock full of attractions, there is plenty to see just by walking around. Mostly, it was fun just to wander and relax with the locals on their day off.
Photos:
http://onelittleworld.zenfolio.com/hamburg
<b>Radisson Blu Hamburg Airport.</b> Since our onward flight to Heraklio was at 6:05 am (yikes), we opted for this hotel, which allowed us to wake up and walk across the street to the terminal. For €109 per night, we found it a good value, with a comfortable if not luxurious room and impressive service—and getting to check in and use our room at 8:30 am was an unexpected bonus! The S bahn station is steps away from the front door, and we were down in the city center within ~ 15 minutes.
http://www.radissonblu.de/hotel-hamburgairport
And now on to Greece….
We had no real agenda, other than to keep moving and stay awake after an overnight flight. Fortunately, it was a nice day, and we were able to spend all of it outdoors (one key to staying awake). From about 10 am until sundown, our wandering included:
• A round-trip harbor cruise on the public ferry—a nice way to see this historic and diverse working port; note that the one-day ticket (tageskarte) covered our train rides as well as the ferry ride
• The city center and the old town—passing by St. Michael’s church, the city hall (Rathaus), and various other buildings canals
• Some relaxation around the Binnenaslter, a man-made lake
• The Colonnaden
• Hafen City, which has a very interesting mix of old and new architecture
Overall, we found this central area very walk-able and well signed, with maps every so often. We were visiting on a public holiday (German Unity Day), so most stores were closed and people off work. After a cloudy start, it became a beautiful sunny day, and many families were gathering in public areas around the Binnenalster and in Hafen City.
We had little or no problems with language, until we started to enter St. Michael’s. Plenty of others were already inside, but we were waved off by a woman saying, “There is mess now! Big mess! Come later, please!” From what we observed, it looked just fine inside, but we didn’t argue the point and we left.
It was a minute later that we figured out that she said “mass.” Which made more sense.
Somewhere along the way, we ate lunch at the Hamburger Fischerstube at the recommendation of a Fodorite. Thank you! It was perfect for the occasion.
By sundown, jet lag was starting to get the better of us. We headed back to the hotel for light appetizers at the lobby bar—the highlight of which was watching the bartender’s reaction to another customer’s request for the bar’s “<i>best</i> rum (Ron Zacapa)…with Coke.”
All in all, we enjoyed our day in Hamburg. While not chock full of attractions, there is plenty to see just by walking around. Mostly, it was fun just to wander and relax with the locals on their day off.
Photos:
http://onelittleworld.zenfolio.com/hamburg
<b>Radisson Blu Hamburg Airport.</b> Since our onward flight to Heraklio was at 6:05 am (yikes), we opted for this hotel, which allowed us to wake up and walk across the street to the terminal. For €109 per night, we found it a good value, with a comfortable if not luxurious room and impressive service—and getting to check in and use our room at 8:30 am was an unexpected bonus! The S bahn station is steps away from the front door, and we were down in the city center within ~ 15 minutes.
http://www.radissonblu.de/hotel-hamburgairport
And now on to Greece….
Oct 21st, 2014, 04:40 AM
#4
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,411
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
<b>Arrival in Crete</b>
It seems just about everyone arriving at Heraklion around the same time we did opted to rent their cars from Avis. While most of the other rental counters had few or no customers, the line for the Avis counter stretched all the way across the hall just outside of baggage claim. We waited 45 minutes, and there were some 30 people in line behind us.
Finally, we got our Hyundai Accent and headed for Chania, a two-plus hour drive. It’s not a complex drive (says the one who didn’t do any of the driving), all on the highway. But there are lots of twists and turns as the road winds along the coast, and the speed limit goes up and down frequently—and there are lots of speed cameras! It’s hard to keep track of all the signs, so we can’t say for certain that our compliance level was very good.
We stopped for lunch at one of the beach cafes just west of Rethymno. It was a cloudy, windy day, and the café was relatively quiet. The few resident cats were doing their best to attract tidbits from the three or four occupied tables. Nevertheless, it was great to be back in Greece and eating Greek (or more accurately stated, Cretan) food…and, oh yes, some raki (but not too much, because we still had to drive on to Chania)!
It seems just about everyone arriving at Heraklion around the same time we did opted to rent their cars from Avis. While most of the other rental counters had few or no customers, the line for the Avis counter stretched all the way across the hall just outside of baggage claim. We waited 45 minutes, and there were some 30 people in line behind us.
Finally, we got our Hyundai Accent and headed for Chania, a two-plus hour drive. It’s not a complex drive (says the one who didn’t do any of the driving), all on the highway. But there are lots of twists and turns as the road winds along the coast, and the speed limit goes up and down frequently—and there are lots of speed cameras! It’s hard to keep track of all the signs, so we can’t say for certain that our compliance level was very good.
We stopped for lunch at one of the beach cafes just west of Rethymno. It was a cloudy, windy day, and the café was relatively quiet. The few resident cats were doing their best to attract tidbits from the three or four occupied tables. Nevertheless, it was great to be back in Greece and eating Greek (or more accurately stated, Cretan) food…and, oh yes, some raki (but not too much, because we still had to drive on to Chania)!
Oct 21st, 2014, 04:43 AM
#5
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,411
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
<b>Western Crete</b>
The other thing that had been making us nervous was the thought of driving into Chania and finding 1) a place to park and 2) our hotel, which is located in the maze of pedestrian streets in the heart of the old city. Our hotel had e-mailed us an excellent map with instruction on areas and streets permissible for public parking. With some advance study, mr_go sailed the car right into town with no wrong turns, and we were able to find street parking about five-minutes walk from our hotel. No problem!
These are a few highlights from our time the area, in no particular order:
<b>Old town and harbor of Chania</b>
It's spelled a few different ways (Xania, Hania, whatever)... but it's a place worth getting to know. The Venetian-era harbor and old town center are a magical combination of history lesson, back-ally labyrinth, photo-op, tourist mecca and restaurant/cafe hub. It’s a great place to base yourself for a few days, as we did, and provides fairly easy access to many of the most desirable sites in Western Crete. Successive waves of different cultures, from the early Minoans to the classical Greeks to the Romans to the Venetians to the Turks and many others, have left their mark here through the years. Today, it’s just a really nice town to be in. Once we fell into the rhythm of the place (and the rhythm of sipping raki after our meals), we felt like locals. And we were reluctant to leave.
Photos:
http://onelittleworld.zenfolio.com/chania
<b>Samaria Gorge</b>
Europe’s longest and deepest gorge gave us a challenging and rewarding 15km hike. It starts high up in the mountains and ends down by the Libyan Sea in Agia Roumeli on the south shore of the island. Along the way, we met fellow trekkers from all around the world... and more than one kri-kri, the indigenous Cretan mountain goats. If you’re a hiker, there’s a lot to love here. And if you’re a shutterbug, there’s even more!
Don’t get us wrong, it’s not a cakewalk. Having hiked the Inca Trail earlier this year, we found the day’s effort similar to a day on that trail—minus the elevation and the up-hills of course. We were glad to have gone to the extra effort of packing the hiking poles and shoes sufficient for hiking (although not boots), and we were pretty sore for a couple of days after.
But the multiple rewards—first, the fresh-squeezed Greek orange juice at the exit to park, then the beer in a taverna overlooking the Libyan sea, and finally the sense of accomplishment as we boarded the ferry with other hikers who had just done the same—were all worth it.
By the way, the round trip from Chania using buses and the ferry is quite easy. It's a long day (approximately 7:45 am - 8:30 pm), but there’s no need to take a “tour” to do this.
Photos:
http://onelittleworld.zenfolio.com/samaria_gorge
The other thing that had been making us nervous was the thought of driving into Chania and finding 1) a place to park and 2) our hotel, which is located in the maze of pedestrian streets in the heart of the old city. Our hotel had e-mailed us an excellent map with instruction on areas and streets permissible for public parking. With some advance study, mr_go sailed the car right into town with no wrong turns, and we were able to find street parking about five-minutes walk from our hotel. No problem!
These are a few highlights from our time the area, in no particular order:
<b>Old town and harbor of Chania</b>
It's spelled a few different ways (Xania, Hania, whatever)... but it's a place worth getting to know. The Venetian-era harbor and old town center are a magical combination of history lesson, back-ally labyrinth, photo-op, tourist mecca and restaurant/cafe hub. It’s a great place to base yourself for a few days, as we did, and provides fairly easy access to many of the most desirable sites in Western Crete. Successive waves of different cultures, from the early Minoans to the classical Greeks to the Romans to the Venetians to the Turks and many others, have left their mark here through the years. Today, it’s just a really nice town to be in. Once we fell into the rhythm of the place (and the rhythm of sipping raki after our meals), we felt like locals. And we were reluctant to leave.
Photos:
http://onelittleworld.zenfolio.com/chania
<b>Samaria Gorge</b>
Europe’s longest and deepest gorge gave us a challenging and rewarding 15km hike. It starts high up in the mountains and ends down by the Libyan Sea in Agia Roumeli on the south shore of the island. Along the way, we met fellow trekkers from all around the world... and more than one kri-kri, the indigenous Cretan mountain goats. If you’re a hiker, there’s a lot to love here. And if you’re a shutterbug, there’s even more!
Don’t get us wrong, it’s not a cakewalk. Having hiked the Inca Trail earlier this year, we found the day’s effort similar to a day on that trail—minus the elevation and the up-hills of course. We were glad to have gone to the extra effort of packing the hiking poles and shoes sufficient for hiking (although not boots), and we were pretty sore for a couple of days after.
But the multiple rewards—first, the fresh-squeezed Greek orange juice at the exit to park, then the beer in a taverna overlooking the Libyan sea, and finally the sense of accomplishment as we boarded the ferry with other hikers who had just done the same—were all worth it.
By the way, the round trip from Chania using buses and the ferry is quite easy. It's a long day (approximately 7:45 am - 8:30 pm), but there’s no need to take a “tour” to do this.
Photos:
http://onelittleworld.zenfolio.com/samaria_gorge
Oct 21st, 2014, 05:06 AM
#6
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 11,334
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
As always, enjoying your report. I think Greece is now beginning to make its way up my bucket list. A friend and I went to Italy this past August, but her second choice would have been Greece!
Sorry to not have seen you in BOS this year, but putting pressure on B & K to plan a GTG once again in 2015!
Sorry to not have seen you in BOS this year, but putting pressure on B & K to plan a GTG once again in 2015!
Oct 21st, 2014, 05:15 AM
#7
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,411
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks! Yes, we also missed seeing everyone at the Boston GTG, but we made good use of the time with this instead. Hopefully next year... And let us know if you ever have extra time in Chicago, or on the drive to/from Chicago--you probably come right past us (if you use I88).
Oct 21st, 2014, 06:22 AM
#11
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 11,324
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Fabulous start to your report! I am thinking that I may want to just recreate your trip sometime soon. Can't wait to read more. We also missed seeing you (and everyone) at the Boston GTG this year. Hopefully next year, though!
Now, I'm off to look at your photos!
Now, I'm off to look at your photos!
Oct 21st, 2014, 07:00 AM
#12
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 7,437
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Greece in October? What did you think? Was the weather hot, warm, cool, comfortable? Water temperature? I imagine the tourist trade is mostly shut down, was it at all lively/places open or quiet and many places closed for the season? How were lodging prices in October?
Oct 21st, 2014, 08:02 AM
#14
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,411
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'd characterize the weather as good (but we're from Chicago, so take that with a grain of salt). High temps were generally in the 60s and 70s (F) range, and most days were fairly sunny. We had some cloudy periods and some breezy weather at times, but only one day of rain (in Heraklion). Overall, very comfortable. Re: the water, we didn't do anything more than dip our feet in the ocean and wade out to the island at Elafonisi. It seemed okay; not exceptionally warm, but plenty of people were in the water. The towns--Chania, Fira, Oia--were lively during the day and early evening. I got the impression that on Santorini, things were getting closer to shutting down. Re: lodging prices, I'll need to get my records when I have a chance, and we'll include that in the report.
Oct 21st, 2014, 08:22 AM
#15
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 3,889
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
ms_go
We arrived home last night 10/20 after 18 days in Greece. We met several couples from Chicago. You and mr_go may have been one of them. TR from a busy 2 and a half weeks when I catch my breath!
Welcome home! Saige
We arrived home last night 10/20 after 18 days in Greece. We met several couples from Chicago. You and mr_go may have been one of them. TR from a busy 2 and a half weeks when I catch my breath!
Welcome home! Saige
Oct 21st, 2014, 08:33 AM
#17
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 12,076
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Since lodging has been brought up, this might be as good a place as any to talk about that. I don't have the prices handy, here at the office... but I do have a little bit of a write-up on each hotel.
<b>Accommodations</b>
As usual, our pre-trip online research yielded successful results... we were very happy with the places we stayed in. ms_go has already touched on the Radisson Blu at the Hamburg Airport, so I will focus on our other stays...
<b>Hanim Lounge & Studios, in Old Town Chania</b>
One of our favorite places we’ve ever stayed in, and that’s a bold statement. Just a two-minute walk from the hustle and bustle of the harbor front on a picturesque pedestrian street, this place is ideally located. But the location is just one of its many charms. Our plan was to base here for 4 or 5 days, so we knew we wanted an apartment or suite...but preferably one with the conveniences and service of a boutique hotel. And I have to say that, after reading the ecstatic, rhapsodous reviews on Trip Advisor, I was pretty well pre-sold on Hanim Suites. And yet, our very high expectations were exceeded every day! Our room (the Lonicera Suite) was spacious, clean, attractive and comfortable with a good bed, good bathroom facilities and an outstanding balcony that overlooked the street from one floor up. We spent enjoyable time on that balcony...watching the cat Voula and her kitten who live in the vacant building across the street, watching the resident dog Lilli who lounges in the middle of the street (and often grooms Voula), listening to the choir from the nearby cathedral and the tolling of its morning bells.
But it’s the human element that sets this place apart. It’s managed by a pair of young ladies who are absolute naturals at the art (and not just the industry) or hospitality. And working beside them is a colorful character, a guy who lavishes copious attention to detail on his gourmet breakfast creations each morning. Together, their advice, assistance and restaurant recommendations were always spot-on. But more importantly, they genuinely wanted to HELP us enjoy their town in any way they could. They packed a wonderful lunch for us on the morning of our Samaria Gorge hike, just out of kindness; they helped us to secure ferry reservations when we couldn’t make it work online; they shared with us their own hopes and dreams of traveling afar. For once, we felt like we were becoming actual friends with our innkeepers and not just clients. In a telling moment, after a long and friendly conversation with one of them (who was extremely pregnant), I told her “you know, I’d love to have your job” and her immediate and candid response was... “It’s not a job.” And she meant it.
http://www.chaniastudios.com/
<b>Lato Boutique Hotel, in Iraklio/Heraklion</b>
Right next to the old Venetian Harbor in the old part of town, and just a stone’s throw from the central bus terminal. Our suite on the top floor was very comfortable, and the large balcony overlooked the scenic harbor. The décor was a tad funky, but that’s a minor demerit. It was also located just beneath the flight path of planes landing at the airport, which made for unusual entertainment. (video: http://onelittleworld.zenfolio.com/h...0eaf1#hef0eaf1 )
We had originally planned to spend 5 nights in Chania, but decided to book one night here in order to make our early ferry departure to Santorini more convenient.
http://www.lato.gr/
<b>Oia Suites, in Finikias on Santorini</b>
We really liked this place a lot, but there are a couple of things that might not be exactly right for every traveler. Despite the name, it is actually located about 15 minutes’ walk from the heart of Oia town on Santorini’s northern tip. And while the views of the island caldera, the sea, the smaller islands and the village of Imerovigli are all wonderful (seriously, I was transfixed)...it does not offer views of Oia itself. However, our suite was (again) very roomy and comfortable. And the crowning glory: a massive private deck with Jacuzzi. If, like us, you don’t mind a bit of a walk to stay out in the quieter part of town, this place is perfect for you. The service here was spot-on, too. Bonus: there’s a wonderful old taverna right across the street run by a truly colorful older gentleman who serves up tasty food and drinks, tells stories, plays guitar, sings folk songs, and (apparently) is close friends with the American rock band Green Day.
http://www.oiasuites.gr/
<b>Sofitel Athens Airport</b>
It’s a Sofitel. At the airport. Questions? But no, seriously, it’s the perfect place to be if you have an early morning flight out of ATH. It’s right next to the Metro station too, so you can easily pop into and back from the city.
http://www.sofitel.com/gb/hotel-3167...rt/index.shtml
<b>Accommodations</b>
As usual, our pre-trip online research yielded successful results... we were very happy with the places we stayed in. ms_go has already touched on the Radisson Blu at the Hamburg Airport, so I will focus on our other stays...
<b>Hanim Lounge & Studios, in Old Town Chania</b>
One of our favorite places we’ve ever stayed in, and that’s a bold statement. Just a two-minute walk from the hustle and bustle of the harbor front on a picturesque pedestrian street, this place is ideally located. But the location is just one of its many charms. Our plan was to base here for 4 or 5 days, so we knew we wanted an apartment or suite...but preferably one with the conveniences and service of a boutique hotel. And I have to say that, after reading the ecstatic, rhapsodous reviews on Trip Advisor, I was pretty well pre-sold on Hanim Suites. And yet, our very high expectations were exceeded every day! Our room (the Lonicera Suite) was spacious, clean, attractive and comfortable with a good bed, good bathroom facilities and an outstanding balcony that overlooked the street from one floor up. We spent enjoyable time on that balcony...watching the cat Voula and her kitten who live in the vacant building across the street, watching the resident dog Lilli who lounges in the middle of the street (and often grooms Voula), listening to the choir from the nearby cathedral and the tolling of its morning bells.
But it’s the human element that sets this place apart. It’s managed by a pair of young ladies who are absolute naturals at the art (and not just the industry) or hospitality. And working beside them is a colorful character, a guy who lavishes copious attention to detail on his gourmet breakfast creations each morning. Together, their advice, assistance and restaurant recommendations were always spot-on. But more importantly, they genuinely wanted to HELP us enjoy their town in any way they could. They packed a wonderful lunch for us on the morning of our Samaria Gorge hike, just out of kindness; they helped us to secure ferry reservations when we couldn’t make it work online; they shared with us their own hopes and dreams of traveling afar. For once, we felt like we were becoming actual friends with our innkeepers and not just clients. In a telling moment, after a long and friendly conversation with one of them (who was extremely pregnant), I told her “you know, I’d love to have your job” and her immediate and candid response was... “It’s not a job.” And she meant it.
http://www.chaniastudios.com/
<b>Lato Boutique Hotel, in Iraklio/Heraklion</b>
Right next to the old Venetian Harbor in the old part of town, and just a stone’s throw from the central bus terminal. Our suite on the top floor was very comfortable, and the large balcony overlooked the scenic harbor. The décor was a tad funky, but that’s a minor demerit. It was also located just beneath the flight path of planes landing at the airport, which made for unusual entertainment. (video: http://onelittleworld.zenfolio.com/h...0eaf1#hef0eaf1 )
We had originally planned to spend 5 nights in Chania, but decided to book one night here in order to make our early ferry departure to Santorini more convenient.
http://www.lato.gr/
<b>Oia Suites, in Finikias on Santorini</b>
We really liked this place a lot, but there are a couple of things that might not be exactly right for every traveler. Despite the name, it is actually located about 15 minutes’ walk from the heart of Oia town on Santorini’s northern tip. And while the views of the island caldera, the sea, the smaller islands and the village of Imerovigli are all wonderful (seriously, I was transfixed)...it does not offer views of Oia itself. However, our suite was (again) very roomy and comfortable. And the crowning glory: a massive private deck with Jacuzzi. If, like us, you don’t mind a bit of a walk to stay out in the quieter part of town, this place is perfect for you. The service here was spot-on, too. Bonus: there’s a wonderful old taverna right across the street run by a truly colorful older gentleman who serves up tasty food and drinks, tells stories, plays guitar, sings folk songs, and (apparently) is close friends with the American rock band Green Day.
http://www.oiasuites.gr/
<b>Sofitel Athens Airport</b>
It’s a Sofitel. At the airport. Questions? But no, seriously, it’s the perfect place to be if you have an early morning flight out of ATH. It’s right next to the Metro station too, so you can easily pop into and back from the city.
http://www.sofitel.com/gb/hotel-3167...rt/index.shtml
Oct 21st, 2014, 08:41 AM
#18
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 12,076
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Also, about the weather in early October... I found it to be extremely comfortable and warm in the daytime. But as soon as that sun goes down (particularly on Santorini), you better have a light sweater with you. It changes fast.
Oct 21st, 2014, 09:56 AM
#19
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,411
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: the weather, I forgot about the one thunderstorm with torrential downpour that came through Chania on our last evening there--but we were safely inside a restaurant at the time. The restaurant's outdoor patrons were not so lucky.
<b>Elafonisi</b>
About mid way through our first full day in Chania, we decided we should make use of our car and head out to one of the beaches, not to swim but just for the scenery. Elafonisi was farther than many but sounded the most interesting, so off we went. The drive took about 1:45—the first half along the coastal road past beach resort after beach resort. Eventually, it turned inland and wound up and over the mountains and through some more traditional Cretan towns, past a scenic gorge, and then down to the beach.
The unique feature of Elafonisi is that in good weather, you can wade across the lagoon in water no higher than knee deep out to the fairly large island, which is a protected nature preserve. You can walk among the dunes and around the many coves and check out the interesting plant life—which we did for a good bit (although we didn’t make it up the hill to the lighthouse). It was a nice sunny day—nice enough to draw a decent number of people, but due to the late point in the season, it was far from packed and easy to find a quiet spots out on the island. We were somewhat mesmerized by the turquoise color of the water! Combined with the drive there, this was a nice way to spend the afternoon and to see a different aspect of Crete.
http://onelittleworld.zenfolio.com/elafonisi
<b>Elafonisi</b>
About mid way through our first full day in Chania, we decided we should make use of our car and head out to one of the beaches, not to swim but just for the scenery. Elafonisi was farther than many but sounded the most interesting, so off we went. The drive took about 1:45—the first half along the coastal road past beach resort after beach resort. Eventually, it turned inland and wound up and over the mountains and through some more traditional Cretan towns, past a scenic gorge, and then down to the beach.
The unique feature of Elafonisi is that in good weather, you can wade across the lagoon in water no higher than knee deep out to the fairly large island, which is a protected nature preserve. You can walk among the dunes and around the many coves and check out the interesting plant life—which we did for a good bit (although we didn’t make it up the hill to the lighthouse). It was a nice sunny day—nice enough to draw a decent number of people, but due to the late point in the season, it was far from packed and easy to find a quiet spots out on the island. We were somewhat mesmerized by the turquoise color of the water! Combined with the drive there, this was a nice way to spend the afternoon and to see a different aspect of Crete.
http://onelittleworld.zenfolio.com/elafonisi
Oct 21st, 2014, 10:37 AM
#20
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 11,324
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Lovely photos! Sounds like you made great hotel choices. I am seriously thinking of following in your footsteps - with some time in Athens as neither of us has been there before. Looking forward to reading more...
