A stellar month in southeastern France

Jul 19th, 2019, 05:51 PM
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Day 4: Villefranche-sur-Mer, Cap-Ferrat, Beaulieu-sur-Mer, and back to Nice

Starting my day with breakfast on my balcony, and enjoying another walk by the Seven Statues and through the Promenade du Paillon, I made my way to the Promenade des Arts for a bus to Villefranche. There was a very long line, but I was fortunate to get a seat, and I was particularly appreciative of that as more and more people piled in with every stop.

On this ride, I saw something I was to experience frequently in France: After all seats were taken, a very old, bent woman who walked with a cane got on and stood beside a seated 20-something who kept tapping away at her phone. I started to offer the old woman my seat, just as a young man with a British accident did so; she seemed so grateful! (And yes, there is a reason I'm mentioning this incident -- as you'll see in the installment that includes Grasse.)

Reaching Villefranche-sur-Mer, any number of kind people helped me find the lanes and stairs that tumbled downhill toward the sea and toward the Cocteau chapel, which I hoped to see. One pair of young ladies I asked happened to be tourism students, and they kindly offered to take me there , but added that because it was a Monday, it would be closed. Oops! I had forgotten that part of the reason I had planned to come yesterday was because of that, but it hadn't been in the cards for me to do so. They suggested that I visit the Eglise Saint-Michel, which I'm glad I did, as it held some lovely carved works and a madonna that seemed to me to be particularly lovely.

After roaming around the narrow alleys and stairs of Villefranche for a while, I got back on the bus and went to the magnificent Villa Ephrussi, which was still decorated for the Rose Festival of the day before. Wow and wow! The mansion, it's furnishings and works of art, the gardens, the fountains, the views! I fully understand why it is so highly recommended. It's one of those places that make me wonder why I am fortunate enough to be able to travel and to see and experience such things. By absolute fluke, I stepped onto the mansion's gallery just moments before a cycle of it's musical fountain began -- magical! I enjoyed every moment of a slow walk through its many gardens, including the rose garden (in full bloom) and the scent garden (with signs clearly stated, in French and English, "Smell me" -- gotta' love that invitation!) And again, purely by good luck, was just stepping away from the gazebo at the upper end of the fountains when another performance began. I spent hours and hours at this marvelous estate, and then celebrated with a glass of champagne on an outdoor terrace.

The walk along the shore to Beaulieu-Sur-Mer was as easy as everyone had said, and even more lovely than I had expected -- so nice! The clarity of the water, the beautiful coastal scenery, sailboats anchored and kayakers paddling and enough of a breeze to make the surface of the sea especially interesting; pines and flowering vines reaching over the wall beside the walkway....

And then the Villa Kérylos, and again, wow and wow! So magnificent, and so different from the Villa Ephrussi. I had been to Greece two years before, and had seen many of the types of things incorporated into this mansion, but had honestly never imagined them coming together with such elegance and luxury. I found it mind boggling and breathtaking and a true joy to see.

It was only steps to the bus stop for my return to Nice. Bus after bus swept by without stopping, or stopping only to let one or two persons off without letting anyone on -- they were too full. I finally made it onto a bus, but only because a few people on board grabbed my arms and pulled me in even as the doors closed upon me. What relief to finally board!

After reaching Nice again, I allowed myself to stroll aimlessly around charming Vieux Nice for a while and then stopped for a glass of wine. Eventually, I returned to my room, freshened up, and enjoyed the approach of twilight from my balcony.

And then the delight of a meal at La Merenda. (Thanks so much, Pepper_von_snoot and gooster!) I began with polenta and gorganzola topped with a flavorful sauce, then savored the awseome daube de boeuf with a chick pea "cake," and finally couldn't resist delicious fresh strawberries in rosewater and orange juice. Throughout the meal, it was fun to see people come in, looking worried; speak briefly to the chef or waiter; and then turn, smiling broadly -- I'm sure that's exactly how I looked when I came by to make my reservation!

I took my time returning to the hotel that night, marveling at this wondrous day and at how much I had come to enjoy Nice after a bit of a rough start.

Day 5: Nice --> Menton

One last breakfast on my balcony and I was ready to go to the train station. It took me some time, and the help of a very patient stranger, to figure out how to buy a ticket, but I managed and I found my platform and was soon on my way....

to be continued....
Next up: Menton
kja is offline  
Jul 19th, 2019, 06:50 PM
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I am loving all of the details. What a wonderful trip!
Kathie is offline  
Jul 19th, 2019, 07:16 PM
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Looking forward to reading about your impressions of Menton. My memory of that town is quite clear.
I am done. The KJA TR.
zebec is offline  
Jul 20th, 2019, 01:27 AM
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Is bus travel the only public transportation to Villefranche sur Mer, Villa Ephrussi and Villa Kerylos? It doesn’t sound as convenient as I thought it would be. Having to wait for an empty bus can be time consuming. After your experience with the buses, do you think renting a car for this day trip would have been better? Or less convenient due to lack of parking spaces?

I love your descriptions and all of your details!
KarenWoo is offline  
Jul 20th, 2019, 07:01 AM
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Now I know we need to return since we never made it to Villefranche-sur-Mer, Villa Ephrussi nor Villa Kerylos. They sound wonderful, but the bus situation sounds a little frightening.
TravelerKaren is offline  
Jul 20th, 2019, 07:41 AM
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Definitely plan to visit the villas. I had no trouble visiting them by foot and bus, but it was in 2006, and earlier in the year. I like April for Nice.
thursdaysd is offline  
Jul 20th, 2019, 08:52 AM
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@ Kathie: (and others who mention the details I provide) I'm sure some people think I'm providing TMI, but I assume they can skim. In the meantime, I hope some people appreciate them, and am glad when some of you comment on them.

@ zebec: If I bring back memories of Menton, I hope they are good ones!

@ KarenWoo,
@ TravelerKaren, and
@ thursdaysd:
..... One can, I believe, also use a taxi for Villefranche and the villas. But even after my experience, I wouldn't worry too much: Buses are frequent, and I don't think there would normally be a problem outside of high season -- I just wouldn't count on any particular bus and I certainly wouldn't count on the last bus. Rain and a disruption in bus schedules the previous day might have prevented any number of people, not just me, from going on that day. From Nice, it would make sense to try to get on at the bus's first stop, just outside MAMAC. And while I don't know for sure, I think what happened with my return is that a lot of people were trying to get back to their cruise ship. A car is an option, but the parking lots I saw that day were full to overflowing. For example, entering the long drive to the Villa Ephrussi, I noted that the entire lane was filled by cars, and other people were trying to drive in and out again after having failed to find a space. I was very glad I didn't have a car! Each of these villas is, IMO, extraordinary and they are definitely worth visiting, even if you need to be patient when waiting for a bus.

more to come....

Last edited by kja; Jul 20th, 2019 at 08:59 AM.
kja is offline  
Jul 20th, 2019, 09:49 AM
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You can easily take the train to Villefranche-sur-Mer, the train station is near the main beach and easily accessible. The main village waterfront is about 0.5 km away, although there is a slight rise up to the station. The train also drops off at Beaulieu sur Mer. It's about the same distance to Villa Kerylos, so it's a good alternative to the buses in the summertime. Villa Ephrussi is a longer walk from the Gare BsM, roughly 1.5km or a mile. Besides bus 81, you could have also taken bus 100 from the main road. However, the main 100 bus back to Nice gets especially full during the summer as the bulk of the people get on at either Monaco or Nice, filling up the buses. (Note I think bus 100 is on a separate E1.50 ticket so your carnet of 10 won't work there).

@kja -- we missed fortunately the big heat wave; I am only there for a too short part of the year (more in the future). In the summer, I've avoided due to the crowds and the fact that we rent it out, although I will be back in a few weeks. Glad you enjoyed La Merenda! I love a good, cooked on-site bouef-en-daube, especially over gnocci or stuffed inside traditional Nicois ravioli.
gooster is offline  
Jul 20th, 2019, 02:17 PM
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Glad you had such a wonderful day. We did the exact same itinerary. A friend who grew up in Beaulieu-sur-Mer told us we had to visit Villa Kerylos which is a gem.
HappyTrvlr is offline  
Jul 20th, 2019, 02:29 PM
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This amazing TR is bringing back such lovely memories of our trip last May to SE France , which included Nice. I had such a silly idea previously that Nice and surrounds were nowhere I wanted to be - utter nonsense! Nice proper was delightful, and the surrounding areas for day trips proved that there is a very real reason why this area is flooded with tourists! Thank you kja for your descriptive trip report - your travel style rocks!
jennlovinglife is offline  
Jul 20th, 2019, 04:01 PM
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@ gooster: I'm glad you escaped that heat wave! And thank you very much for posting the information on train access to Villefranche, Cap Ferrat, and Beaulieu-sur-Mer -- I would have hated thinking that the difficulties I had with buses might have deterred people from visiting those amazing places.

@ HappyTrvlr: IMO, Villa Kerylos is among the world's gems -- utterly and completely awesome!

@ jennlovinglife: Welcome to this trip report and welcome to Fodor's! I appreciate your kind words and agree that it's easy to understand why so many people enjoy seeing Nice and its surrounds.

More as soon as I edit the next installment....
kja is offline  
Jul 20th, 2019, 04:48 PM
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Day 5: Nice --> Menton, continued

Arriving in Menton, I took a taxi to my hotel, where I learned (as I knew was likely) that my room was not ready, so I left my luggage and went to pick up my rental car. Although I wouldn't want it that day, the next day was a holiday, and so I needed to claim it on this day. I had made my arrangements through gemut.com and everything went smoothly and easily, except that the vehicle was not the compact I had reserved, but a "free upgrade" to a larger vehicle -- an SUV. Basically, I could take it, since that's what they had, or I could wait until the day after the next. I took it. At least it had a manual transmission, as I had requested. I immediately got mildly lost in a series of one-way streets, but thankfully, my taxi driver had spontaneously pointed to several landmarks and key locations as he took me to my hotel, so I soon recognized where I was and parked in a garage near my hotel.

The square above the parking garage held trees and shrubs and fountains, and I found a pleasant cafe to its side for some juice while I studied my map and notes. Then: Time to begin exploring! Noting the distinctly Italian influences on the buildings in the area, with contrasts to nearby Nice that were sometimes marked and sometimes subtle, I first admired some grand buildings in the city's newer town, with their elegant wrought iron or balustraded balconies and corniced roofs above delicately painted decorations.

Climbing into Menton's Old Town, I began roaming the narrow walks and stairs that lead through this hill-side warren of ancient buildings painted in warm, soft hues of maize or rust or lemon. Its the kind of old town that tourism is just beginning to transform and where much remains untouched, the kind of place where walls aren't always perfectly straight and where the ancient stones of arches built to buttress the upper stories of facing structures have begun to sprout plants. If there's a cafe or a shop or a souvenir stand in that Old Town, I didn't see it. I admired the Italianate companile of the Misericorde ou des Penitents Noir and the pebbled mosaic plaza outside of the Basilique St-Michel, caught occasional glimpses of the azure Mediterranean, and marveled at the ways residents had found to surround their homes with plants and small decorative touches.

Reaching the top of the Old Town, I sat for a while under a arbor with just enough wisteria blooms to lend a gracious touch, admiring the stunning views over the sea and along the coast and into the mountains and over Menton's beach and the tiled roofs and bell towers of the Old Town clustered on the slope above the harbor. So beautiful!

The Cimetière du Vieux Château atop this hill includes graves designed in a variety of styles and states of preservation -- statues and slabs and crypts and an Islamic mausoleum with its marvelous design of inlaid stone and its gilded domes and ceramic flowers and cloth flowers and actual flowers and shrubs and small memorials perched on walls; and glorious scenery in every direction -- the coast to the east and the coast to the west and the roofs of the Old Town and jagged peaks parting shifting wisps of mist to the north and glimpses of people enjoying the beach or water sports below. So very lovely! A few signs reading "Concession a Perpetuite" reminded that I had learned, here on Fodor's, that European graves are sometimes occupied by any one resident for only a limited amount of time. Too, one small section of the cemetery held markers in English; I took note of one that read, "He died learning." IMO, one could do worse.

Wending my way back through the Old Town, I reached the eastern sea front, with its beaches and harbor, palms and ... was that really a bottle tree? I appreciated the tiny blue-trimmed greenery-filled Place du Cap with its pleasant little fountain, and began roaming around an area with arcades and little shaded squares and fountains and statues, choosing one pleasant outdoor cafe for a glass of beer. Refreshed, I passed the colorful covered market and the impressively designed Musée Jean Cocteau (both closed by then) and then strolled along Menton's waterfront, sharing the sound of the surf on its pebbled beach and the swooping seabirds with a few other people sitting or walking or braving the water.

Turning into the pedestrian-only part of the city, I re-entered the more modern part of town and then entered the Les Jardins Bioves, a long narrow park dotted with huge trees and a few statues, all surrounded by roses in full bloom. It seemed that every bench held people chatting or reading or otherwise enjoying the shade and scents.

I found the bus stop I was seeking -- really, a bit of a station -- and learned that I had just missed the bus I wanted, and so took a taxi to the Jardin Serre de la Madone. Parts were a bit overgrown, but were enjoyable nonetheless, and some areas were absolutely delightful. The Moorish garden was pleasant, even though it included a bit too many artificial elements for my tastes; the wisteria arbor of blooms was, IMO, stunning. The pool with koi and lotus and a lovely sculpture of a graceful woman and surrounding flowers and shrubs and overarching trees was one of my favorites in this garden with so many flowers and so many nooks and corners and interesting elements. I had only about an hour in the garden before it closed -- enough, I think, to have seen it's highlights, though I could have happily spent much more time there.

As I waited for a bus, I admired the rose vines that had crept almost to the very tops of tall cypress, and then appreciated the bus driver's skill as she maneuvered some very narrow streets and sharp turns. I got off in central Menton and strolled the pedestrian area, pleasantly surprised by some Art Nouveau decoration (the ceramics on the facade of the former Hotel Mondial were gorgeous!) and stopping for a bottle of wine before reaching my hotel. While I waited to check in, I experienced the auditory assault of some kind of shrieking cacaphony: A large group of elder guests were in a bar area adjacent to the reception area, and they were engaged in full-throated, off-key, off-beat, gasping-for-breath karaoke. Bless their hearts, even as I fought the urge to cover my ears, I was aware that I sincerely hope to have that joie de vivre at their age.

The Hotel Vacances Bleues Balmoral suited my needs well, but IMO, had both positive and negative elements. I thought it very well located for what I wanted to do -- it's within easy walking distance of the things I wanted to see, and it's on the pedestrian street on one side and the main seafront boulevard -- the Promenade du Soleil -- on the other, with nothing else between it and the shore. My room was actually a suite -- bedroom, bath, sitting room, and seaside balcony, and oh, I did like that balcony! With signs of its Old World grandeur -- and a few signs of its age -- it was comfortable enough, and the breakfast buffet was satisfactory. The evening receptionist was helpful; unfortunately, the day time receptionist was downright rude.

Once I finally checked in and got settled, I savored a glass of wine on that lovely balcony as twilight descended over the city, with views out over the sea and the shore and a the coast to either side. Delightful!

With the help of the nice evening receptionist, I secured a dinner reservation at Les Enfants Terribles -- wonderful! I had a small serving of a velvety soup, a large and very fresh salad, and then a generous plate of very fresh seafood -- prawns (huge!) and mussels and clams and calamari. The service was warm, professional, and gracious, and I was given a much appreciated digestive, gratis, afterwards.

Once again marveling at my good fortune to be able to have all these amazing experiences, I strolled back to my hotel and then sat on my balcony for quite a while, watching the lights along the shore and the white foam of the waves as they approached, and then hit, and finally receded from the shore. Later, I fell asleep to the sound of that surf. Life can be good!

Day 6: Menton --> Tende

As already mentioned, the breakfast buffet at my hotel was OK. I soon checked out, retrieved my car, and set out for the day.

My first stop was the Jardin Exotique Val Rahmeh. What a glorious garden! So many different settings and different moods and plants from around the world, nicely described in an audioguide. I spent several wonderful hours roaming the extensive grounds and appreciating the loving attentions that were involved in creating and sustaining this delightful place. And then, time to move on.

to be continued...
Next up: Into the preAlps
kja is offline  
Jul 20th, 2019, 05:45 PM
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Envy you that balcony!
thursdaysd is offline  
Jul 20th, 2019, 07:06 PM
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Enjoying your TR very much, kja!
joannyc is online now  
Jul 21st, 2019, 08:19 AM
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Finally I have found a few minutes to read through your trip report! I’m just loving reliving our trip to S France.

I had debated whether to go to Nice but was so glad we did because both my husband and I found it delightful! Also had a wonderful meal at Jan. It was an adventure.

Our hotel recommended taking the train to Beaulieu-sur-Mer to see the Villas and that worked out well for us. We walked around the Cap and took the bus back to the train station so our crammed full bus ride was thankfully short.
natylou is offline  
Jul 21st, 2019, 09:30 AM
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@ thursdaysd: That balcony was a treasure!

@ joannyc: I'm glad to hear that -- thanks!

@ natylou: Nice to have you along for the ride! I'm glad my trip is bringing back some nice memories, including those of the delight of a meal at Jan.

more to come later....
kja is offline  
Jul 21st, 2019, 12:43 PM
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kja: How lovely to have a balcony facing the beach! It all sounds so delightful. We did Menton as a day trip from Nice several years ago but only had time to walk the promenade and have a wonderful beach side lunch. We'll have to make a return trip as your descriptions make it sound like we need a full day to thoroughly enjoy.
TravelerKaren is offline  
Jul 21st, 2019, 02:02 PM
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I love all of the visual details in your report. I feel like I can picture these places!
Kathie is offline  
Jul 21st, 2019, 04:35 PM
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@ TravelerKaren: If you enjoy gardens, you could do worse than revisit Menton!

@ Kathie: What a lovely compliment! I started traveling in the days before digital cameras, and one of my goals was to think of ways to describe things to my Mother in ways that would help her visualize my experiences. She's long gone, but I still think about that when I travel.

. . . . .

Day 6: Menton --> Tende, continued

Upon leaving Menton, I headed for Sospel -- and faced the challenges of becoming acquainted with my vehicle. In some ways, it was a good drive for that purposes, as there were few other vehicles on the roads. In other ways, it was truly awful: some of those roads were exceedingly narrow, and many were seemingly endless sequences of blind curves going up, and then down, mountains. And even if there weren't many other cars, there were some! The car had all sorts of sensors, resulting in countless beeps and bells, few of which made any sense to me at first, most of which went off when I could least afford to pay attention. They worked, though -- I learned how to avoid them! I never became comfortable with that car's size, but I did, over time (read "days") develop a working relationship with the beast.

Too, I was using my old TomTom, and as already noted, doing so had it's, uhh... moments. It soon became clear that my efforts to update its maps had not succeeded. I have absolutely no idea whether I was on the roads that would have made most sense or no, but as I said, it always got me where I wanted to go -- at least more or less.

As a first example, it took me into the back streets of Sospel before I realized I wasn't on a through road -- but I realized my error fairly quickly, and if anything, that gave me a brief chance to see a few blocks of the town. I stopped for a few minutes to stretch my legs, take a break from the beeping beast, and see Sospel's Vieux Pont, complete with midstream guard tower. The wide, rocky streambed it crossed attested to the powers of the waters that have coursed through that channel in the past, and perhaps seasonally.

Although my focus was on the road, I caught glimpses of fields and forests; grey outcroppings of rock surrounded by ground cover in various greenish greys, with more intensely green trees in the lower slopes; and every so once in a while, awesome distant peaks. The brief stretch of road through the Gorges de Saorge was stunning -- the road was flat and near the base of some undulating pale grey rock walls, and one could easily see the pale blue water crashing over and around massive boulders or eddying in its onward rush. Somewhere that day I remember crossing a bridge and looking out and realizing that someone had painted one of the boulders to look like a pig's head. That was unexpected!

The TomTom, vehicle, and I then had some difficulty finding the entrance to Saorge, first encountering several road closures and then taking a road to the opposite hillside. I appreciated the stunning views, but was less enamored of the "opportunity" to navigate, and then re-navigate some very narrow, twisting roads.And then my first attempt at parallel parking that tank. The space was barely longer than the vehicle, with a tree not quite all the way into one corner, and even with the rear-view camera and its projected trajectories, and even getting out frequently to try to figure out what, exactly, those trajectories meant in terms of actual distance, it must have taken me a half hour and -- if I had to guess -- a hundred moves forward and back before I managed. What a pain! What a relief! At least I seem to have provided entertainment to an elderly gentleman who watched the last 10 minutes or so and who offered me a high-five when I finally succeeded. Trust me when I say that I spent the rest of my time with that vehicle doing my best to avoid parallel parking.

A long road lined by pruned plane trees (I know there's a name for the technique that involves leaving almost nothing except the new growth, but I forget what it is) led along the hillside to town. Then, following ancient lanes and cobbled walkways, I climbed to the Eglise, with its sadly crumbling stucco, and, upon entering its Baroque interior, found myself surrounded by organ music -- someone was rehearsing, and if a few of the organ's keys might benefit from attention, it was still very nice to hear.

I made my way past stone and stuccoed buildings, virtually all with shutters and a flowerbox or two, some painted lovely warm shades resonant of the town's Italian roots, and by old roofed lavoires, to the Monastère de Saorge. I enjoyed the cloister's roses and sundials; found the "Franciscan Baroque" frescoes interesting, if not particularly to my tastes; and noticed some gorgeous wood work in the chapel. Best, the extensive terraced monastery gardens offered glorious views of the valley and surrounding mountains, as well as glimpses to distant mist-shrouded peaks, some still bedecked in snow. And, walking back into town, I could also admire the village arrayed in layers climbing the steep slope.

Of course, the town has some public squares, too, shaded by huge, leafy plane trees, and a few hardy souls sat at benches overlooking the valley despite the chill.

Back in my car (it is so much easier to LEAVE a parking spot than to enter it!), I was glad to see signs for my next destination -- and as already noted, signs almost always trump GPS directions. A broad valley held the Pont du Coq, a wonderful old stone bridge that turns a corner (thanks, rhon, for mentioning it!), and then I followed the road into a forested area beside a rushing river that cascaded over boulders.

There, nestled on a grassy lawn, is the small Notre Dame des Fontaines, with its incredibly well preserved and exquisitely detailed 15th century frescoes. Stunning! And rather awesomely frightening in parts, as they seem to have been painted with a clear intent of showing, in extraordinary detail, some of the horrors awaiting the unfaithful. I had been studying these paintings for some time when I realized that closing time had passed, even if only by a few moments; kudos to the young man at the door who didn't give even the tiniest of indications that he was in a hurry or that I had inconvenienced him.

From there, it wasn't far to Tende, which I reached in time to spend an hour or so at the museum there -- except that the museum had already closed for the day. My arrangements with the B&B at which I was staying called for us to meet in a little over an hour, so after confirming that there was no answer there, I roamed the town for a while, enjoying some wonderful views of surrounding mountains and noting the mix of old and new in the town's buildings. And then I sat near the entrance to the B&B, catching up with my journal, until it started raining. It was cold, the rain was blowing on to me even as I sat on a roofed terrace, I was tired from the stresses of managing mountain roads in a tank, I was frustrated that the museum hadn't been open as my research had led to me expect, and I was increasingly anxious to settle in to my lodging.... Let's just say that it was NOT the finest moment of this trip, and when the B&B's owner finally showed up, I was so grumpy that I wouldn't be surprised if she'd wished at least one of us hadn't! As it turned out, we had misunderstood each other -- I thought I was only to call if I would be late, while she thought I would call when I arrived. I appreciate the grace with which she steered us through a few awkward moments.

Tende's Hotel le Miramonti has a few rooms above a restaurant that was, unfortunately, closed the night I was there. It's a bit rustic and certainly nothing fancy, but my room was very comfortable and had some charming touches. And honestly, the owner could not have been more understanding. She recommended a nearby restaurant, La Margueria, where I had a delicious and very generous salad with chevre toasts. Despite a language barrier, staff there were extremely kind and welcoming.

Afterwards, armed with the jacket and scarf that had been in my suitcase earlier, I enjoyed a slow stroll back to my room in the crisp mountain air.

Day 7: Tende --> Vence

Starting my day with a delicious breakfast, I turned to the Musée des Merveilles, which holds many reproductions of the pictographs of a mountain nearby, along with a few originals. Awesome! The pictographs include many representations of horned animals, and yoked ones, too, providing some insights into the importance of these animals to their lives. Given my interests in art and in prehistory, I was delighted to visit this museum. There were also a variety of informative displays and dioramas, some showing the details of clothing worn in the area, from ancient leathers through very old textiles.

And then I approached that rental car, determined to continue forging a workable relationship during a day that would involve a lot of time on the road.

to be continued...
Next up: A long day of driving, with a few pleasant stops
kja is offline  
Jul 21st, 2019, 05:24 PM
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Re: trees - I think you are describing pollarding.

Re: congratulations, but you are further reinforcing my decision not to drive when traveling!
thursdaysd is offline  

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