A Soggy Scottish Spring Sojourn
Jan 23rd, 2010, 03:46 PM
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A Soggy Scottish Spring Sojourn
<b>Sunday, April 27, 2009 -From Bonnie Scotland </b>
This is a follow-on to my trip report
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...at-belated.cfm
In the interests of accuracy with topic titles, and so as not to ignite debate of the England/Scotland/United Kingdom etc issue, and because some people might only be interested in a Scotland trip report, I'm posting the Scotland segment separately.
This is week four – I’m losing track of the days by this stage and I’m sure you are too.
Since leaving the Lakes District, I have enjoyed very pleasant weather, perfect for driving and sightseeing.
This can’t last, and it doesn’t.
I’m off early in glorious sunshine and head to Bannockburn and then to Stirling Castle after missing an exit off the freeway and crossing the Forth Bridge before I could correct the error. The most interesting thing was a tapestry weaving which is in progress.
http://www.stirlingcastle.gov.uk/hom...tapestries.htm
The Great Kitchens and the Argyll and Sutherland Highlanders Regimental Museum were also interesting to see. Need I say, great views too.
However, as the weather deteriorated, so did my mood and discovering that the TIC was closed on Sunday didn’t help. I rang a few of the places I had on my stand-by list with no luck. So I determined to drive to Callander and do a door knock. I was relieved to get there and find there were indeed, many places just along the main roads so I decided to start at one end and work my way along until I got lucky.
And get lucky I did. The first place I stopped at had a room and it was so nice that by the morning, I decided to just stay there until I was due to go to Edinburgh. I was getting a little tired of driving quite frankly, and just plain tired. And the weather forecast was not at all good. All plans of heading further up into Scotland were abandoned. I was also finding this whole business of winging it without booked accommodation stressful and time wasting.
Accommodation - Riverview Guest House
http://www.lodging-world.com/accom.R...se.123497.html
<b> Monday, April 27, 2009 – Rambling In the Rain</b>
They say you travel to have experiences that you don’t have at home – like rain! After all, this is Scotland so it’s not a surprise that it’s raining. It is, however, a little disappointing because this part of the trip is mainly about scenery rather than castles and cathedrals. Yes, I know, Scotland has these too but after a while, they have a tendency to start merging in the mind. I want to see lochs and glens and bens etc.
Optimistically I set off on the scenic drive via the A81, around Lake Menteith (only lake in Scotland) and across in the small ferry to Inchmahome Priory. The trip across was interesting. I had assumed you waited for a regular scheduled ferry. But no, you turn a sign around on the jetty and the boat comes over to get you. Then you go to the kiosk and they take you back. I sat huddled in the front of the boat pretending I was Mary Queen of Scots. She was hidden there as a child. This would have been much neater if you could have seen anything but it was raining so much I couldn’t look up without getting my glasses wet. Surprisingly, my photos turned out great! Apparently the bluebells were out in profusion on the other side of the island but the weather didn’t look like clearing up any time soon so I headed for the kiosk and then to the ferry and back to the warmth and dryness of the car.
Then I drove through Aberfoyle and via the A821over to Loch Katrine to find I had just missed the boat trip. The next boat was not for a few hours and because of the weather I gave up on that idea. The scenery on the way, such as you could see, was spectacular and I’d love to do this drive again in better conditions.
I drove along the north coast of Loch Venachar, stopping for a meal at the Harbour Café. It was really not pleasant driving conditions so I backtracked to Callander, via the tourist trap of the Kilmahog Mill,intending to spend the afternoon relaxing with a book.
Of course, so sooner had I returned to base camp than the weather cleared. So as there was still plenty left of the day I set off to see Doune Castle. This is where they filmed a lot of the scenes from Monty Python “Holy Grail” movie and the audio guide is narrated by Terry Jones. It starts with the theme music from Holy Grail, which cracked me up, and serious commentary is interspersed with wry humor, silly noises etc. It was fun.
Then I idled an hour or more just browsing at a huge antique store - or collection of many small ones really. Back in Callander, I checked the internet which is available at the TIC and dinner at Mhor Fish was tasty and restorative.
This is a follow-on to my trip report
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...at-belated.cfm
In the interests of accuracy with topic titles, and so as not to ignite debate of the England/Scotland/United Kingdom etc issue, and because some people might only be interested in a Scotland trip report, I'm posting the Scotland segment separately.
This is week four – I’m losing track of the days by this stage and I’m sure you are too.
Since leaving the Lakes District, I have enjoyed very pleasant weather, perfect for driving and sightseeing.
This can’t last, and it doesn’t.
I’m off early in glorious sunshine and head to Bannockburn and then to Stirling Castle after missing an exit off the freeway and crossing the Forth Bridge before I could correct the error. The most interesting thing was a tapestry weaving which is in progress.
http://www.stirlingcastle.gov.uk/hom...tapestries.htm
The Great Kitchens and the Argyll and Sutherland Highlanders Regimental Museum were also interesting to see. Need I say, great views too.
However, as the weather deteriorated, so did my mood and discovering that the TIC was closed on Sunday didn’t help. I rang a few of the places I had on my stand-by list with no luck. So I determined to drive to Callander and do a door knock. I was relieved to get there and find there were indeed, many places just along the main roads so I decided to start at one end and work my way along until I got lucky.
And get lucky I did. The first place I stopped at had a room and it was so nice that by the morning, I decided to just stay there until I was due to go to Edinburgh. I was getting a little tired of driving quite frankly, and just plain tired. And the weather forecast was not at all good. All plans of heading further up into Scotland were abandoned. I was also finding this whole business of winging it without booked accommodation stressful and time wasting.
Accommodation - Riverview Guest House
http://www.lodging-world.com/accom.R...se.123497.html
<b> Monday, April 27, 2009 – Rambling In the Rain</b>
They say you travel to have experiences that you don’t have at home – like rain! After all, this is Scotland so it’s not a surprise that it’s raining. It is, however, a little disappointing because this part of the trip is mainly about scenery rather than castles and cathedrals. Yes, I know, Scotland has these too but after a while, they have a tendency to start merging in the mind. I want to see lochs and glens and bens etc.
Optimistically I set off on the scenic drive via the A81, around Lake Menteith (only lake in Scotland) and across in the small ferry to Inchmahome Priory. The trip across was interesting. I had assumed you waited for a regular scheduled ferry. But no, you turn a sign around on the jetty and the boat comes over to get you. Then you go to the kiosk and they take you back. I sat huddled in the front of the boat pretending I was Mary Queen of Scots. She was hidden there as a child. This would have been much neater if you could have seen anything but it was raining so much I couldn’t look up without getting my glasses wet. Surprisingly, my photos turned out great! Apparently the bluebells were out in profusion on the other side of the island but the weather didn’t look like clearing up any time soon so I headed for the kiosk and then to the ferry and back to the warmth and dryness of the car.
Then I drove through Aberfoyle and via the A821over to Loch Katrine to find I had just missed the boat trip. The next boat was not for a few hours and because of the weather I gave up on that idea. The scenery on the way, such as you could see, was spectacular and I’d love to do this drive again in better conditions.
I drove along the north coast of Loch Venachar, stopping for a meal at the Harbour Café. It was really not pleasant driving conditions so I backtracked to Callander, via the tourist trap of the Kilmahog Mill,intending to spend the afternoon relaxing with a book.
Of course, so sooner had I returned to base camp than the weather cleared. So as there was still plenty left of the day I set off to see Doune Castle. This is where they filmed a lot of the scenes from Monty Python “Holy Grail” movie and the audio guide is narrated by Terry Jones. It starts with the theme music from Holy Grail, which cracked me up, and serious commentary is interspersed with wry humor, silly noises etc. It was fun.
Then I idled an hour or more just browsing at a huge antique store - or collection of many small ones really. Back in Callander, I checked the internet which is available at the TIC and dinner at Mhor Fish was tasty and restorative.
Jan 23rd, 2010, 04:02 PM
#2
Terrific report. Sounds like you made lemonade from the lemon-y bad weather.
One time years ago my parents were motoring through Callander/menteith area in a driving storm and w/o a booking anywhere. They happened upon the Lake hotel right there next to the jetty. (This was when it was family owned and before it was poshed up by deeper pockets). They only really stopped because the weather was so dreadful and they wanted to get warm and dry.
Fell in love w/ the place, the lake, the priory, Aberfoyle, Callander etc etc and stayed a week. They went back many times over the years.
One time years ago my parents were motoring through Callander/menteith area in a driving storm and w/o a booking anywhere. They happened upon the Lake hotel right there next to the jetty. (This was when it was family owned and before it was poshed up by deeper pockets). They only really stopped because the weather was so dreadful and they wanted to get warm and dry.
Fell in love w/ the place, the lake, the priory, Aberfoyle, Callander etc etc and stayed a week. They went back many times over the years.
Jan 24th, 2010, 02:44 PM
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Patrick, you're absolutely right of course. In fact the lady at Melrose had even offered to find a place for the following night (but neglected to mention that TICs would be closed)
I guess i should have realised they'd be closed on a Sunday. Live and learn.
<b>Tuesday April 28th, 2009 -Pilgrimage To Perth </b>
The weather was slightly better so I headed up the A 84 past Loch Lubnaig and thence along the A85 and A827 to Killen, the Clan McNab burial grounds and the Falls of Dochart. After a bit of a break there, I drove along the north of Loch Tay to Kenmore which is a very picturesque little village at the mouth of the river Tay. I took quite a few photos of the town and the views over Loch Tay and then onto the Dewars Distillery.
A girl from Perth, Australia can’t go to that part of Scotland without a visit to Perth. I drove around the city , as much to say I had as for any other reason, and onto Scone Palace ( the main reason for the visit).
Saw the stone of destiny replica and the mound, toured the inside of the palace and the grounds. Lots of Cherry blossoms there to ensure I wasn’t too jealous of my friend who was in Japan and enjoying peak blooms and hanami. (I’m always just too late every time I go). It’s also a better place to see ‘hairy coos’ than that poor beast at Killmahog.
They have an awesome cross country course there in the grounds (for three day events etc) I just missed the Black Watch Museum - it closed five minutes before I got there so drove back via Crieff, stopping briefly at the Stuart Crystal Outlet store. Then it was back via Loch Earn. It’s redundant to mention that the scenery was stunning, even with the cloud and occasional rain. In fact, the clouds lend a certain drama to the photos.
In the evening (love those long evenings) I returned to Lake Menteith and had dinner at the hotel there and had the most expensive fish cake I've ever had!
Pictures of Scotland
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...8&l=7182066e9b
I guess i should have realised they'd be closed on a Sunday. Live and learn.
<b>Tuesday April 28th, 2009 -Pilgrimage To Perth </b>
The weather was slightly better so I headed up the A 84 past Loch Lubnaig and thence along the A85 and A827 to Killen, the Clan McNab burial grounds and the Falls of Dochart. After a bit of a break there, I drove along the north of Loch Tay to Kenmore which is a very picturesque little village at the mouth of the river Tay. I took quite a few photos of the town and the views over Loch Tay and then onto the Dewars Distillery.
A girl from Perth, Australia can’t go to that part of Scotland without a visit to Perth. I drove around the city , as much to say I had as for any other reason, and onto Scone Palace ( the main reason for the visit).
Saw the stone of destiny replica and the mound, toured the inside of the palace and the grounds. Lots of Cherry blossoms there to ensure I wasn’t too jealous of my friend who was in Japan and enjoying peak blooms and hanami. (I’m always just too late every time I go). It’s also a better place to see ‘hairy coos’ than that poor beast at Killmahog.
They have an awesome cross country course there in the grounds (for three day events etc) I just missed the Black Watch Museum - it closed five minutes before I got there so drove back via Crieff, stopping briefly at the Stuart Crystal Outlet store. Then it was back via Loch Earn. It’s redundant to mention that the scenery was stunning, even with the cloud and occasional rain. In fact, the clouds lend a certain drama to the photos.
In the evening (love those long evenings) I returned to Lake Menteith and had dinner at the hotel there and had the most expensive fish cake I've ever had!
Pictures of Scotland
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...8&l=7182066e9b
Jan 24th, 2010, 02:49 PM
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eigasuki:
So sorry you missed the bluebells due to the bad weather, perhaps next time.
Looking forward to more - very much enjoyed your photos on the other post and wonderful details.
Thanks so much.
Sandy
So sorry you missed the bluebells due to the bad weather, perhaps next time.
Looking forward to more - very much enjoyed your photos on the other post and wonderful details.
Thanks so much.
Sandy
Jan 25th, 2010, 06:06 AM
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Thanks for your encouragement everyone. I'm getting there. You never know with trip reports how much detail to include- useful for some, tedious for others. I'm happy to answer any specific queries
</b>Wednesday April 29th, 2009 –the Edinburgh Edition </b>
It had been fun but I was looking forward to handing in the car. I drove into Edinburgh - had vague ideas of visiting Falkirk Wheel but the signage was a bit confusing and I wasn't able to be specific enough for Kevin so, as I was running low on fuel anyway, I gave it a miss. It was a bit creepy driving through Falkirk and hearing on the news that the Scottish couple (the first confirmed cases of H1N1 in the UK) who are affected are from Falkirk. But my windows were wound up tight! It was still being called Swine flu then and the news was full of it and just a tad hysterical. If there was any upside to this Swine flu scare, it was that the keyboards in the internet place were all getting a good clean!
Kevin decided to send me the back way into Edinburgh but he must have known I wanted a really good picture of the Forth Bridges from the road.
However, he redeemed himself and led me easily to my B&B for the next three days. I dropped off my stuff and still had a couple of hours before I was due to return the car so I had a leisurely stroll in the Botantic Gardens which are really close to the B&B, admiring all the rhododendrons and the squirrels.
Dropping off the car was fuss-free. I literally handed my keys to a staff member who had come out into the parking area for a smoke. “Is that all I have to do?” I asked incredulously as she offered to take the keys? Well, I never heard another thing so I assume all was OK.
It was an easy walk from the depot into the city so I had a lovely stroll around (well, except for all the excavations for the tramworks). I admired all the architecture – love those old buildings – and walked halfway along the Royal Mile towards the castle. I was surprised to see they were already setting up the scaffolding for the seating for the Tattoo. I just had time for a visit to the Castle, figuring if I didn’t see it all, I could come back nest day as it’s on the GBHP.
As it was, I had plenty of time to visit the Great Hall, the War Memorial and museum and the Prisons of War exhibition as well as take plenty of photos of the view and afternoon tea at Queen Mary’s Café. My favourite part was the Prisons of War museum, which details all the various occasions that the castle has been used as a prison – more than I thought.
What an amazing setting the castle has. I may have mentioned once or twice about the great views castles tend to enjoy but Edinburgh tops them all. I then headed back to the New Town and browsed a while in Jenner’s Department Store. Dinner was at a really funky little place called 99 Hanover Street, where the menus come inside various Boys’ Own Annual kind of books. The waiter obligingly swapped mine for the Rupert Book I requested. It was still pretty quiet at that hour – about 6.30pm so I had a peaceful meal. I waited a while for a bus but it was a lovely evening so I ended up walking all the way back to the B&B!
Accommodation - Ashlyn Guest House
http://www.ashlyn-edinburgh.co.uk/
</b>Wednesday April 29th, 2009 –the Edinburgh Edition </b>
It had been fun but I was looking forward to handing in the car. I drove into Edinburgh - had vague ideas of visiting Falkirk Wheel but the signage was a bit confusing and I wasn't able to be specific enough for Kevin so, as I was running low on fuel anyway, I gave it a miss. It was a bit creepy driving through Falkirk and hearing on the news that the Scottish couple (the first confirmed cases of H1N1 in the UK) who are affected are from Falkirk. But my windows were wound up tight! It was still being called Swine flu then and the news was full of it and just a tad hysterical. If there was any upside to this Swine flu scare, it was that the keyboards in the internet place were all getting a good clean!
Kevin decided to send me the back way into Edinburgh but he must have known I wanted a really good picture of the Forth Bridges from the road.
However, he redeemed himself and led me easily to my B&B for the next three days. I dropped off my stuff and still had a couple of hours before I was due to return the car so I had a leisurely stroll in the Botantic Gardens which are really close to the B&B, admiring all the rhododendrons and the squirrels.
Dropping off the car was fuss-free. I literally handed my keys to a staff member who had come out into the parking area for a smoke. “Is that all I have to do?” I asked incredulously as she offered to take the keys? Well, I never heard another thing so I assume all was OK.
It was an easy walk from the depot into the city so I had a lovely stroll around (well, except for all the excavations for the tramworks). I admired all the architecture – love those old buildings – and walked halfway along the Royal Mile towards the castle. I was surprised to see they were already setting up the scaffolding for the seating for the Tattoo. I just had time for a visit to the Castle, figuring if I didn’t see it all, I could come back nest day as it’s on the GBHP.
As it was, I had plenty of time to visit the Great Hall, the War Memorial and museum and the Prisons of War exhibition as well as take plenty of photos of the view and afternoon tea at Queen Mary’s Café. My favourite part was the Prisons of War museum, which details all the various occasions that the castle has been used as a prison – more than I thought.
What an amazing setting the castle has. I may have mentioned once or twice about the great views castles tend to enjoy but Edinburgh tops them all. I then headed back to the New Town and browsed a while in Jenner’s Department Store. Dinner was at a really funky little place called 99 Hanover Street, where the menus come inside various Boys’ Own Annual kind of books. The waiter obligingly swapped mine for the Rupert Book I requested. It was still pretty quiet at that hour – about 6.30pm so I had a peaceful meal. I waited a while for a bus but it was a lovely evening so I ended up walking all the way back to the B&B!
Accommodation - Ashlyn Guest House
http://www.ashlyn-edinburgh.co.uk/
I had a gorgeous day for our visit, and it was sublime.
Jan 25th, 2010, 02:33 PM
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I did, GreenDragon, though I only saw it from the bar!
<b> Thursday, April 30, 2009 From the Butcher to Beltane</b>
The John Sauderson Butchers in Leven Street is not on the usual tourist trail but I went there to buy a copy of a charity cookbook that the friend I was meeting in London had requested ( she knows a contributor).
http://www.thecaledoniankitchen.co.uk/index.html
I caught the bus just near the station and found it easily in a main shopping street, bought the book and one for myself, and had morning tea at a lovely café next door. I really enjoyed this little sojourn into, dare I say, everyday Edinburgh. I’m just as happy with homes, shops, schools and the trapping of real life as with museums and monuments.
Back to the city centre, I walked along the Royal Mile, visiting several small museums and buildings, about the Canongate Tollbooth, Writers Museum and some others I can’t really recall. When I came to the Scottish Parliament building, I could see why it has been controversial for some. I entered and explored the public area. It’s an impressive building, at least on the inside. There were several school groups availing themselves of the specialized facilities. I was particularly interested in one group, a smallish group of private school boys, who all looked like future leaders. I grabbed three copies of the information booklet available; variously “Making the Scottish Parliament Work for You”. Also known as “Garrin the Scottish Pairlament Wark for Ye” and “A’ deanamh feum de Pharlamaid na h-Alba”.
Outside, there was a very noisy protest calling for an end to genocide of Tamils. I crossed the road and entered Holyrood Palace. Kerry AJS1’s trip report says it all much better than I ever could. “Place where Rizzo was marrdud = awesome.
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...t-266759-2.cfm
After enjoying the Royal Apartments and the Queen’s Gallery, I very much enjoyed the gardens and the Abbey ruins. An Edinburgh must-do, even for those who are feeling a bit castled out.
One thing I had tried to do was find a traditional May Day celebration and I discovered than in Edinburgh they have a Beltane Festival. I hadn’t really been able to find out what it involved so, after checking my emails at a kiosk in sa shopping mall, I headed for Calton Hill. Of course, I was way too early and I went the wrong way – the wrong side of Calton Hill, miles more than I needed to walk. When I got there, the police and emergency/security workers outnumbered the members of the public. Various stages and frameworks were set up and gradually more and more people arrived including performers in costume.
While I was waiting around, I took lots of pictures of Edinburgh from all angles, and in different light levels. It seemed the later it got, the clearer the weather became – not the first time I had noticed that. However, the wind picked up and gradually all my layers went on – jacket, rain jacket for wind protection etc.
It didn't really start until dark - i.e. around 10 and was largely drumming and flaming torches as far as I could see. Because of the crowds, that wasn’t much. Even people in the crowd had flaming torches! After a while of not being able to see much and being jostled in the crowd, I gave it a miss and headed “home”.
<b> Friday, May 1st, 2009 – A Comedy of Errors</b>
I headed off on foot, bound for a self-guided walking tour of the architecture of the New Town. I got a little lost a couple of times and once I entered one of those parks that are fenced off to the general public. Well, the gate was open so I figured that this one was not a ‘private’ park. Lovely peaceful park, squirrels, pretty flowers, just one gardener raking leaves. However, when I got to the gate on the opposite side, it was locked. I followed the path to the next gate and yes, it too was locked. I envisaged the gardener finishing his chores and locking the gate I’d entered by as he left, and me having to climb the fence. Luckily I escaped and went on to visit 7 Charlotte Square, a Georgian house now owned by the National Trust of Scotland.
I had originally planned to go to Rosslyn Chapel but somehow, I changed my mind and then, on the spur of the moment, I decided to go to Glasgow. The train trip there was a nice break after all the walking of the morning.
It was drizzling when I arrived in Glasgow and I intended to just get on one of the Hop On Hop Off buses and do a quick circuit of ‘the sights’. But after I’d had some lunch, you guessed it, the weather cleared somewhat. I walked to the Glasgow School of Art and just missed the guided tour. I didn’t feel like waiting an hour for the next one and you could see the Charles Mackintosh chair display through a glass screen, so I figured that was enough for me. My guide book had a couple of mistakes in it so I never found the Willow Tea Room until after it had closed.
I walked all the way to the other end of town. There was a wedding in the cathedral so I hung about in hope of catching a sight of the kilted congregation, but it was not to be. St Mungo’s Museum of Religious Life is nearby and that proved extremely interesting. A vary fair coverage of many of the main religions through time and place. It has many artifacts used to celebrate the key events in people’s lives as celebrated by the different faiths.
Then I headed up the hill to the Necropolis which was unexpectedly awesome. Some people build some pretty grandiose memorials to themselves. Many of the imposing monuments were of course erected by “their friends”.
I had assumed there would be a few trains back to Edinburgh during the evening and was alarmed to find, when I returned to the station after I’d had a bite to eat, that I’d just missed a train and there was one more train back to Edinburgh that night, the express to York which didn’t depart for over an hour.
Kicking myself that I’d been too stupid to check return times, and plagued by “what if” scenarios if I’d missed getting a train at all (I was due to depart for London next morning) I spent a fretful time waiting . Well, Glasgow Central Station is quite old and interesting but there’s not much to do, especially as all the shops were closing one by one. At least the Friday night people-watching (young girls on an evening out) was fascinating.
So that was my brief starter trip to Scotland. My heritage is mainly English and though I grew up believing I was of Scottish descent, the only proof we have is that some ancestors with the very un-Scottish name of Smith, embarked for the colonies at Leith. Nonetheless, I always felt at home in Scotland and indeed had many déjà vu moments, so maybe I am.
Six days was not nearly enough but I think I covered a fair bit, even if it did just leave me wanting more. I’ll be back.
Photos of Edinburgh and Glasgow
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...8&l=df95292b10
Meanwhile, my trip continues in England.
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...at-belated.cfm
<b> Thursday, April 30, 2009 From the Butcher to Beltane</b>
The John Sauderson Butchers in Leven Street is not on the usual tourist trail but I went there to buy a copy of a charity cookbook that the friend I was meeting in London had requested ( she knows a contributor).
http://www.thecaledoniankitchen.co.uk/index.html
I caught the bus just near the station and found it easily in a main shopping street, bought the book and one for myself, and had morning tea at a lovely café next door. I really enjoyed this little sojourn into, dare I say, everyday Edinburgh. I’m just as happy with homes, shops, schools and the trapping of real life as with museums and monuments.
Back to the city centre, I walked along the Royal Mile, visiting several small museums and buildings, about the Canongate Tollbooth, Writers Museum and some others I can’t really recall. When I came to the Scottish Parliament building, I could see why it has been controversial for some. I entered and explored the public area. It’s an impressive building, at least on the inside. There were several school groups availing themselves of the specialized facilities. I was particularly interested in one group, a smallish group of private school boys, who all looked like future leaders. I grabbed three copies of the information booklet available; variously “Making the Scottish Parliament Work for You”. Also known as “Garrin the Scottish Pairlament Wark for Ye” and “A’ deanamh feum de Pharlamaid na h-Alba”.
Outside, there was a very noisy protest calling for an end to genocide of Tamils. I crossed the road and entered Holyrood Palace. Kerry AJS1’s trip report says it all much better than I ever could. “Place where Rizzo was marrdud = awesome.
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...t-266759-2.cfm
After enjoying the Royal Apartments and the Queen’s Gallery, I very much enjoyed the gardens and the Abbey ruins. An Edinburgh must-do, even for those who are feeling a bit castled out.
One thing I had tried to do was find a traditional May Day celebration and I discovered than in Edinburgh they have a Beltane Festival. I hadn’t really been able to find out what it involved so, after checking my emails at a kiosk in sa shopping mall, I headed for Calton Hill. Of course, I was way too early and I went the wrong way – the wrong side of Calton Hill, miles more than I needed to walk. When I got there, the police and emergency/security workers outnumbered the members of the public. Various stages and frameworks were set up and gradually more and more people arrived including performers in costume.
While I was waiting around, I took lots of pictures of Edinburgh from all angles, and in different light levels. It seemed the later it got, the clearer the weather became – not the first time I had noticed that. However, the wind picked up and gradually all my layers went on – jacket, rain jacket for wind protection etc.
It didn't really start until dark - i.e. around 10 and was largely drumming and flaming torches as far as I could see. Because of the crowds, that wasn’t much. Even people in the crowd had flaming torches! After a while of not being able to see much and being jostled in the crowd, I gave it a miss and headed “home”.
<b> Friday, May 1st, 2009 – A Comedy of Errors</b>
I headed off on foot, bound for a self-guided walking tour of the architecture of the New Town. I got a little lost a couple of times and once I entered one of those parks that are fenced off to the general public. Well, the gate was open so I figured that this one was not a ‘private’ park. Lovely peaceful park, squirrels, pretty flowers, just one gardener raking leaves. However, when I got to the gate on the opposite side, it was locked. I followed the path to the next gate and yes, it too was locked. I envisaged the gardener finishing his chores and locking the gate I’d entered by as he left, and me having to climb the fence. Luckily I escaped and went on to visit 7 Charlotte Square, a Georgian house now owned by the National Trust of Scotland.
I had originally planned to go to Rosslyn Chapel but somehow, I changed my mind and then, on the spur of the moment, I decided to go to Glasgow. The train trip there was a nice break after all the walking of the morning.
It was drizzling when I arrived in Glasgow and I intended to just get on one of the Hop On Hop Off buses and do a quick circuit of ‘the sights’. But after I’d had some lunch, you guessed it, the weather cleared somewhat. I walked to the Glasgow School of Art and just missed the guided tour. I didn’t feel like waiting an hour for the next one and you could see the Charles Mackintosh chair display through a glass screen, so I figured that was enough for me. My guide book had a couple of mistakes in it so I never found the Willow Tea Room until after it had closed.
I walked all the way to the other end of town. There was a wedding in the cathedral so I hung about in hope of catching a sight of the kilted congregation, but it was not to be. St Mungo’s Museum of Religious Life is nearby and that proved extremely interesting. A vary fair coverage of many of the main religions through time and place. It has many artifacts used to celebrate the key events in people’s lives as celebrated by the different faiths.
Then I headed up the hill to the Necropolis which was unexpectedly awesome. Some people build some pretty grandiose memorials to themselves. Many of the imposing monuments were of course erected by “their friends”.
I had assumed there would be a few trains back to Edinburgh during the evening and was alarmed to find, when I returned to the station after I’d had a bite to eat, that I’d just missed a train and there was one more train back to Edinburgh that night, the express to York which didn’t depart for over an hour.
Kicking myself that I’d been too stupid to check return times, and plagued by “what if” scenarios if I’d missed getting a train at all (I was due to depart for London next morning) I spent a fretful time waiting . Well, Glasgow Central Station is quite old and interesting but there’s not much to do, especially as all the shops were closing one by one. At least the Friday night people-watching (young girls on an evening out) was fascinating.
So that was my brief starter trip to Scotland. My heritage is mainly English and though I grew up believing I was of Scottish descent, the only proof we have is that some ancestors with the very un-Scottish name of Smith, embarked for the colonies at Leith. Nonetheless, I always felt at home in Scotland and indeed had many déjà vu moments, so maybe I am.
Six days was not nearly enough but I think I covered a fair bit, even if it did just leave me wanting more. I’ll be back.
Photos of Edinburgh and Glasgow
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...8&l=df95292b10
Meanwhile, my trip continues in England.
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...at-belated.cfm
Jan 26th, 2010, 11:29 PM
#16
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Great idea, Green Dragon. I read yor trip report and that sounds like something I'd like to do.
Except as I recall, some detals about delayed luggae and car problems. The highlands and islands are definitely on my list but I don't think it will be until 2012 at least. But one can always plan ahead, most of the main attractions aren't going anywhere.
Except as I recall, some detals about delayed luggae and car problems. The highlands and islands are definitely on my list but I don't think it will be until 2012 at least. But one can always plan ahead, most of the main attractions aren't going anywhere.
Jan 26th, 2010, 11:43 PM
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Sounds like you were at the wrong station for the regular train service to Edinburgh...they go every half hour up to 11.30pm form Glasgow Queen Street, a bit less often on a Sunday. During the day they go every 15 minutes...
