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A Schnitzel a Day: tcreath's trip to Germany from the Mosel to Bavaria

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A Schnitzel a Day: tcreath's trip to Germany from the Mosel to Bavaria

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Old May 6th, 2008, 09:01 AM
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A Schnitzel a Day: tcreath's trip to Germany from the Mosel to Bavaria

This is not going to be a lengthy, detailed trip report because I�ll be honest�.I didn�t take any notes like I usually do so I�ll have to go by memory alone! But just as the title suggests, at least one of us had at least one schnitzel a day!
Okay, here I go. I'll warn you though...I lack that ability to produce a really entertaining trip report so bear with me!

My husband and I, along with my younger brother, left for Germany on April 18th and came back on April 27th. I am 29, DH is 30 and my brother is 25. My husband and I travel quite a bit, and this was our third trip to Germany. My brother doesn�t travel too often, although he did join us on a short trip to Rome in 04. We used FF miles, flying AA from RDU to LRH and BA to Frankfurt, returning from Munich on BA to LHR to RDU. Our itinerary was:

3 nights in Cochem � Ferienwohnung Am alten Kirchplatz (http://www.fewo-cochem.de/)
1 night in Rothenburg � Hotel Klosterstuble (www.Klosterstueble.Rothenburg.de)
3 nights in Schonau am Konigssee � Ferienwohnung Familie Hinterbrandner (www.hinterbrandner.de)
1 night in Munich - Hotel Perlach Allee Hof (http://www.book-golden-leaf.com/)

We prefer to stay in apartments, and with my brother this worked out well because it was more economical (he was on a tight budget) and we each still had privacy. I will say, in advance, that we liked each of the places we stayed and would readily recommend them.

Day 1
We live in Charlotte but because we had AA miles, and there aren�t many AA flights out of CLT, we decided to fly out of RDU instead. We drove to the airport that afternoon, where we met my brother (he was coming from St. Louis) and hopped on the 6:05 flight to LHR. I was really nervous about my brother not making his flight, and I don�t think I got too excited about leaving until I got to RDU and saw him waiting for us. This is Raleigh�s first, and only, overseas flight and it was great to fly from a smaller airport with much shorter security lines.

The flight itself was uneventful. We landed in T3 and made our way to the new T5. I was nervous about this too, as I was worried about our luggage. Luckily everything worked out just fine in the end. T5 itself is fine, much more spacious than T3. We had a four hour layover so we ate some (not so great) food from one of the sandwich stalls, did a little shopping at Harrods and then made our way to snag some of the huge red couches so we could take a little nap. Our flight left a little late but we arrived in Frankfurt on time to some very gloomy, rainy weather.

We arranged for a Budget rental car through Auto Europe, our rental company of choice, and after filling out all of the required paperwork we walked to our car, a Seat Leon, and started to make our way towards Cochem. At first my brother wasn�t too impressed (�it kind of looks like Illinois�) but once we got off the autobahn he started to get excited. We stopped at�.McDonalds. I know I know�but we were hungry, brother had to use the restroom, and it was there. We approached Cochem from behind and I got that thrill of vacation excitement when we pulled into town�it was exactly what I had hoped it would be! The town is small but large enough that there was enough to do, and the castle was an awesome sight. The apartment we stayed at was across the river, so we had wonderful views of the castle every day from our balcony.

I did a lot of research, both on my own and here on Fodors, to find the perfect town to base ourselves. My husband and I prefer smaller towns, and would probably choose Beilstein for our next trip to the area, but my brother likes to do things at night so in the end Cochem worked out great. It was off season, but the restaurants along the river were always open. And I loved our apartment. I spent a lot of time finding the �perfect� accommodations and stumbled upon this place while doing one of my many online searches. The people who run it were very nice to work with and our apartment was lovely, with two bedrooms, a large bathroom, and a nicely equipped kitchen and living room with the lovely balcony. We were within walking distance of town, which made it perfect. I think we paid 70 euro per night.

We didn�t do much this afternoon because it was chilly and very rainy. We unpacked and walked across the river to town, where we meandered around, took photographs, and found a nice place to eat dinner. I do apologize because I have no idea what the name of the restaurant was, but the food was very good. I had a schnitzel with a mushroom sauce on it that was divine, and of course a glass of delicious reisling. We all kind of looked at each other sheepishly after dinner because none of us wanted to admit that we were exhausted and wanted to go back to the apartment on our first night in Germany, but finally I broke the ice and the others agreed. My brother fell asleep on the chair in the living room five minutes after we got back!

Next: Burg Eltz, a new country for us (Luxembourg!) and Trier
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Old May 6th, 2008, 09:37 AM
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I forgot to mention that this was our first visit to this part of Germany. My husband had wanted to visit the Rhine/Mosel region for awhile now and finally got his wish. It was worth the wait though...the area is gorgeous!

So we all wake up bright and early, ready to start our day. There is a heavy fog/haze, but it made for a pretty cool view, with the haze kind of surrounding the castle. We get ready to go and head into town to eat at one of the cafes right across the street from the parking lot. I was so excited to get a German croissant, but it was such a let down. The croissants were okay, but I had been telling my brother how awesome the croissants are in Bavaria and these paled in comparison. Oh well….at least the cappuccino was good! We had quite an itinerary planned for today so we hurried up and ate so we could get going.

So after breakfast we start heading towards Burg Eltz, following MaiTaiTom’s Rick Steves’ directions because we didn’t want to hike in this chilly weather with the ground still soggy from the rain the day before. We find the parking lot and start walking down towards the castle. The cool thing about walking down towards the castle is that you can see it kind of looming there as you approach and it’s a pretty cool sight. It sits in this gorgeous valley, with a little river flowing way down below. We stop at the lookout point to take the obligatory “picture in front of the castle” photos before walking the rest of the way down. We check out the gift shop, pick up our tickets and wait. Luckily it wasn’t very long before a tour in English started, and there were only four of us on the tour.

Now I know that people on here rave about Burg Eltz, and we did like it, but I wasn’t as impressed as I expected to be. I guess deep down I prefer the ruined castles versus the prettied up ones. Still, it was a neat experience and my brother had a ball. It was great being there with him. We are very close, and being able to experience these things with him made the trip all that much better. He is your typical guy; he loves beer, history and cool castles….and Germany certainly doesn’t disappoint on any of it.

From here the plan was to head towards Trier. At first we were going to drive along the Mosel River but after awhile we realized how long it would take us to get to Trier so DH pulled out the map and found a quicker route. Still, driving along the river is gorgeous. I can’t believe how steep the vineyards were! There were beautiful panoramas after beautiful panoramas that were like postcards. This region is much hillier than I had imagined, and just absolutely beautiful.

We get to Trier, where DH had a few choice words to say before we finally found a parking lot across the street from the Porta Negra. Now talk about a cool sight…we are all lovers of all things Rome and when I saw this I had to remind myself that no, we were not in Rome. We took lots of pictures and decided to tour it on our way out, mostly because we were hungry for lunch. We saw all of these doner kebab restaurants and decided to stop at one, right on the main street. The food was really good, although different than what I’m used to. In St. Louis there are some great Bosnian restaurants, and the doner kebabs come with the meet and tzatsiki sauce on thick bread. This was a plate of the meet and sauce but without the bread. Still delicious though, and the sauerkraut was excellent. We sat outside and ate our food, drinking our beer and (for me) wine with the view of the Porta Negra and talked about how this definitely does not remind us of Illinois! We walk around town, visit the historic baths and coliseum and then head back to the Porta Negra (probably more interesting outside than inside, although the views were great). Next stop: Luxembourg!

Okay, so in retrospect we could have skipped Luxembourg, but my husband and I have been to a lot of countries in Europe and Luxembourg was one that we were missing. Since we were so close, we felt it was imperative that we visit. Luxembourg City itself is nice, very green and walkable. We walked around for a little bit, and then stopped in a town just before the border where we picked up a nice bottle of Luxembourg wine.

We drove back along the river, taking in all the sights and stopping at a few wineries along the way to sample wines and purchase some bottles. I love Rieslings, so I was really excited about visiting some of the local wineries. Every wine I tried on this trip was delicious, and we ended up bringing about six bottles back with us. We stopped in the town of Bernkastle where we ate at a wonderful restaurant in the center of town. I had a pork fillet in a pepper sauce that was really good. We then stopped in Beilstein because this is the town that I had heard so many raves about. Very small but super cute and quaint. My husband and I loved it and will definitely stay here on our next visit. We then head back to our apartment and open up one of our Riesling’s and toast the wonderful day.
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Old May 6th, 2008, 09:51 AM
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Wonderful!

Some people will poo-poo crossing a boarder just to say you have been there but I understand completely and would do it too!!

I loved the Mosel Valley, so charming. There was a weird park of some sort high in the hills above Beilstein and the River that had an excellent viewpoint. DH wasn't too happy about taking the car up there

Glad you had fun and can't wait to hear more.
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Old May 6th, 2008, 10:16 AM
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More! We'll be there in July.
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Old May 6th, 2008, 11:11 AM
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Tracy, you're doing very well for not having detailed notes! I'll probably be in Germany a couple of times when my daughter spends an academic year there in '08-'09. I'm saving your Mosel info.

Do you speak German? I find it comes in handy in the smaller towns, not that my German is very good, but I have been refreshing with immersion tapes in my car.

I totally understand about Luxembourg, I've been tempted to detour myself, but would really want a stamp in my passport, which I suppose doesn't happen in these EU days. When we took the train from Germany to the Czech Republic I embarrassed my entire family by asking the Czech border guards if they would please stamp my passport. They had the stamps but apparently it isn't something they do routinely. Of course, my children then requested stamps for theirs! I don't think the guards were too pleased with me when several other people in our train car also asked.

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Old May 6th, 2008, 11:46 AM
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Tracy, great start! You bring back memories of a trip we took along the Mosel many years ago, coming through Luxemburg from Holland. Trier was great and the vineyards amazingly steep like you say. I still buy Mosel wine based on my memories of the prettiness of the villages and haven't gone wrong yet drinking Bernkastle!
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Old May 6th, 2008, 12:38 PM
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Looking forward to the rest of your report, Tracy. I'm glad you enjoyed Cochem, Beilstein, and Trier.

I usually prefer the ruined castles myself as well, but I consider Burg Eltz an exception because it has been owned by the same family for so many generations, and it is full of their stuff!

The Mosel really is an incredible area and probably my favorite part of Germany.
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Old May 6th, 2008, 12:56 PM
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Tracy
Love your report, looking forward to the rest

Burg Eltz is one of the few castles in Germany that survived the attacks of the French troops in the late 17th century. It is also one of the few that has been maintained by the same family for multiple (around 30, I think) generations. Maybe that's why it seems "prettied up" compared to the others.

Glad you took the time to visit Luxembourg City. Most people skip it and it's really worth at least a weekend.
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Old May 6th, 2008, 01:57 PM
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Thanks for starting this. Looking forward to more!
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Old May 6th, 2008, 01:59 PM
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Thank you all for your kind replies! I wasn't going to do a report, but a few people on another post requested that I do so, and I did start several posts asking for advice so I feel that it's my fodorite duty!

noe, I do speak a little German and it was helpful, especially in the smaller towns. I am working on a degree that requires four semesters of a foreign language, and I chose German because I like the sound of it and because it very useful in so many European countries. I can't say that my accent was that great though...I did get a few "what is she talking about" stares!

I'll add more when I can. This is finals week for me (had my German final yesterday!) but I should be able to add more soon.

Thanks again for reading!
Tracy
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Old May 6th, 2008, 02:00 PM
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Oh, forgot to add that I do have pics if anyone is interested. They can be found at www.kodakgallery.com/tracybates. It's the album at the top.

Tracy
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Old May 6th, 2008, 04:08 PM
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Hi Tracy,
Thanks for the report and photos. Great! After many trips we finally stayed along the Mosel last fall and loved it. Glad you all had a good time.

Paul
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Old May 6th, 2008, 04:18 PM
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Tracy-- I have been looking forward to your report-- it's great and your pictures are amazing!! I really hope to visit the Mosel area and it looks as beautiful as I thought it would.

It sounds like your trip was wonderful and it is so nice that your brother could go with you. I'm waiting for the rest and thank you for sharing with all of us!
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Old May 7th, 2008, 12:36 AM
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Thanks for taking the time to report in, I am enjoying it so much. Loved your photo's too.
We are in the middle of planning our trip to Germany for next year and like you we are starting at the Mosel so I am soaking this all up.
Looking forward to reading more.
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Old May 7th, 2008, 04:21 AM
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Luxembourg was actually my first European country (I flew Icelandic in 1973 with a group of friends and we set off from L. with a Eurailpass). I think it is worth at least a brief detour.

My husband and I were there in 1984 (dropping my sister and BIL off for another Icelandic flight) for the national holiday. We enjoyed seeing those celebrations (the Grand Duke and duchess walked by the crowds in the city very informally), touring the imposing fortress, etc.

In 1986 we spent an afternoon/evening along the Moselle sampling the wines there before yet another Icelandic flight. I thought the wines were good and an interesting contrast to the German Mosel wines on the other side of the border.
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Old May 7th, 2008, 04:35 AM
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tcreath
I am enjoying reading about your adventures. I am looking forward to more. You are right, this is a wonderful area of Europe to visit.
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Old May 7th, 2008, 07:09 AM
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Hi tcreath,
nice to hear you enjoyed your trip. I was used of living nearby Trier and so I know a lot about it.
Just a tiny correction: couldnt have been a doener kebap shop you went to or you didnt order a real doener. A doener in Germany is just served the same way you mentioned it, with bread and sauce and the meat inside. And they definetely are not serving any sauerkraut in a small doener shop.
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Old May 7th, 2008, 08:35 AM
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wolfmisc, it was definitely a doner kebap cafe. I distinctly recall the picture of the big screwer of meat, the ones that are at every doner kebap restaurant, and we wanted to try one so that's why we went. I wish I could remember the name of it, but it was right on the main street, within view of the porta negra. And it was definitely sourkraut served with it. I remember mentioning that it was a weird combination, but the food was pretty good.

Tracy
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Old May 7th, 2008, 09:02 AM
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Tracy-
I am enjoying your report and your pics look awesome. That's great that your brother was able to go as well... I remember a trip around Europe my sister and I took about 5 years ago- so glad we had that experience together. Keep the report coming!
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Old May 7th, 2008, 10:26 AM
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I really enjoyed your report. Germany is one of my favorite places to visit, and I really enjoyed seeing Trier and also the Mosel, especially Burg Eltz. I have somehow missed visiting Cochem, and your remarks make me determined to see it the next time I am in Germany.

I hope that if you do visit Beilstein again, you will stay at the wonderful Hotel Haus Lipmann and have some meals there. The prices are reasonable and the rooms charming.

When my sister and I registered there, we were given a third-floor room. I was temporarily using a cane, and after we'd been in the room a couple of minutes, the manager came an asked us if we'd like a room on a lower floor. That was really very thoughtful.
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