Michael,

I think I remember that from "As Always, Julia," her letters to and from Avis LaVota.

Those letters were so good, I loved the political discussions and Avis's advice on how to adapt her recipes to American foods, spices and equipment. Fewer products were available in the 50s and early 60s.

I also didn't realize how many years Child and Beck spent on "mastering the Art..."

<i>but then maybe the missing ingredient is really just France.</i>

Perhaps the brick in the oven?