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Correction
The last of the mosaic covered churches above is San Giovanni in Laterano, not Santa Maria Maggiore.
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Hey, Russ, you’re killing us!! We all want to be there ...... :)
wonderful photography. |
Rome to Pompeii to Positano
We grabbed an Uber from the apartment and picked up the car to head out of Rome. Rush hour traffic, and a missed turn, resulted in spending too much time inching along to the next roundabout to turn around, reminding us why we don’t drive in Rome; but soon enough we were heading south on the Autostrada towards Pompeii.
One positive development we have found as the trip has progressed is that everywhere we go, our temperatures are taken and we are asked to complete forms to assist with contact tracing. This started in Tuscany, and continued in Rome. Museums, restaurants, hotels, almost everyone is following a safety protocol that we never saw in France. We stopped for our first pizzas of the trip in Pompeii, near the entrance to the site, after first having our temps taken and completing a contact form. We figured that we may as well have pizza in the area where they were invented, and they were delicious. Last time we were at Pompeii, 15 years ago, we missed seeing the Villa dei Misteri, which has some of the best preserved frescos of the site, so we decided to head directly there. We were disappointed to discover that that area was closed, and in fact, a good 50% or more of the entire site was closed. This was likely a result of reduced staffing due to COVID, although that didn’t reduce the sting of missing yet again. Of course, no commensurate reduction in the price of entry. I feel that the frescoes and mosaics spoke to me more this time, rather than the wide open public spaces. Of course, the plaster casts of the people caught for 2000 years in the hardened ash is always moving. Regardless of the closed off areas, we saw a lot over the next three hours, before heading to Positano for the next three nights. We arrived at the Villa Rosa Hotel, where we stayed last time, and it is just as lovely as we remember it...and the traffic on the narrow winding streets just as bad. I decided not to do an AirBnB here because the ones I found were either too expensive or too far up the mountain side, Positano being even more vertical than the Cinque Terre. When she showed us our room, I commented that our room last time also had the same beautifully painted vaulted ceiling. She replied that this was the only room in the hotel with that ceiling, so we lucked out, getting the same exact room we had all those years ago! Soon after our arrival we headed to dinner at Lo Guarracino, a favorite seaside place from last time. When we ate here before we had asked the proprietress what the name of the restaurant meant, to which she replied, “An ugly fish”. I responded by saying, “but it’s a good tasting fish?”, to which she replied, “no, it tastes terrible”. We all got a good laugh from that. I reminded her of that conversation from before, and this time she added, “The men give it to the women; after that they don’t talk anymore”. Clearly woman’s rights have a ways to go in Italia. On our way back to the room, we decided to stop for a drink at the renowned La Sirenuse hotel, which is right across the street from our hotel. They showed us to the very tasteful outdoor bar area. The views were beautiful and live acoustic guitar music filtered out of the restaurant to the terrace where we were seated. We briefly contemplated booking dinner there, until the bill came for two drinks, at a price that made our eyes water. Easily the most expensive drinks of our lives, the total was 50% higher than our entire lunch earlier in the day. Just for fun I checked the room prices on line, and the cheapest price was 5 times what we are paying just across the street. Worried that they might be charging us by the minute, we slunk back to our room, and enjoyed almost the same view for a price that didn’t provoke tears. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9e8f5c5ce.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ef6ef18d4.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...62e4696c6.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...929ef78e8.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...65f292729.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...15f4f6db9.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d9d38b936.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...68c0e9191.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6a600d957.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fbc8afbe1.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...27ecece62.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2110179a9.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4f0652724.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a23e81ce6.jpeg The painted ceiling in our hotel room https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5c5e5e130.jpeg Positano sunset |
Fabulous photos!
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Outstanding photos, Russ. Sorry about the Villa dei Misteri. I missed it also on my trip in spring 2019, albeit because I was beat after 5 hours touring 3 of the 9 quadrants. When I saw that it was a 1/2 mile walk from where I was, I just thought “screw it”. All the more reason to be sure I go back someday.
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Cinque Terre looks lovely.. thanks for sharing those awesome picures.
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Amalfi Coast and Paestum
Fortunately, this wasn’t our first trip to Positano, because we really needed a rest from 5 days of running around in Rome. Unless you’re spending the day at the beach, taking a trip to Capri or driving along the coast, there is really not a lot to do there, so after a quick stroll through town, we planted ourselves at a beach-side cafe and nursed a cold drink until lunch time rolled around, when we realized that it was easier to order food than to try to move. It turned out to be a rather humid day, so after a long mid-afternoon nap, we ended up back at Lo Guarracino again for dinner, the food being excellent and the setting so lovely right next to the water.
The next morning, the humidity having broken, we decided to take the ferry to Amalfi, but apparently the sea was too rough and they were cancelled. This turned out to be fortuitous, since we decided instead to drive to Ravello, about 20 minutes up the hillside from Amalfi, but worlds away in style. The two main draws in Ravello are the Villa Rufolo and the Villa Cimbone, the gardens of which can be toured. If you’ve seen photos of Ravello before, they have undoubtedly been taken from one of these spots. The views of the coastline with the gardens in the foreground are stunning. After Ravello, we made a quick one hour loop through Amalfi, which is much more on the mass market circuit, there being a lot more room for large tour busses to park. The main draw is the Duomo, with its beautiful 13th century cloister showing its moorish influence. After 3 nights in Positano, we headed for Matera, in the region of Basilicata, stopping first at Paestum for the fantastic Greek temples. This was among the first of the Greek colonies, and contains some of the best Greek ruins of Magna Grecia. If you want to see the best preserved Greek temples, you have to go to southern Italy. In my option, these are surpassed only by those found in Sicily. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c43176aeb.jpeg Positano https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a65d3c8d1.jpeg Positano https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...394f241fb.jpeg Positano, near Lo Guarracino https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...014aae736.jpeg Villa Rufolo, Ravello https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...571ba1c38.jpeg Villa Rufolo, Ravello https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...62cf0b55f.jpeg Villa Cimbrone, Ravello https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...889daee11.jpeg Villa Cimbrone, Ravello https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c0bb072c5.jpeg Villa Cimbrone, Ravello https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c0f3806d4.jpeg This is what happens when you and your neighbor can’t agree on paint colors, Ravello https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0b584e5a2.jpeg Cloister, Amalfi https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f72d0971a.jpeg Amalfi campanile https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b65cef7d4.jpeg Priano, from the car window https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...92e650f1c.jpeg Paestum https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...236eb9da9.jpeg Paestum https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1dca09245.jpeg Paestum https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3e1b57c2d.jpeg Ho hum, just another lunch with a view of 2500 year old Greek ruins |
great to read that you are still having such a good time and for the stunning photos. I was particularly interested in the ones of Paestum that you have posted as they have helped identify the temples that appear at the beginning of the film that we are starting to study in my italian class. I wondered where they were and now I know!
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I think I had lunch at that same restaurant at the Paestum temples!
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Matera
Although this was our second trip to Matera, it was as fascinating and enjoyable as the first time we went, 15 years ago. We stayed in a cave room in the “sassi”, which is a series of caves carved into a ravine. This area was notorious in the 1960’s for being one of the most squalid places in Italy (and documented in the book and film, “Christ Stopped at Eboli). People at that time still lived in these caves with no running water or sanitation. Cholera was still an ongoing problem. The government finally had to step in and relocate the inhabitants to the modern town, outside the Sassi.
This historic center was virtually abandoned until 1992 when UNESCO designated it a World Heritage Site. Since that time, hotels, restaurants, shops and museums have continued redeveloping the old cave dwellings. We did self-guided walking tours, up and down a lot of stairs, and saw almost a dozen churches which had been carved out of the living rock, most with frescos intact, that were painted in Medieval times. Most of the places have normal looking facades, but once you go inside, you can see rooms in caves that were dug out centuries ago. It looks much like Judaea must have looked like 2000 years ago. Our favorite places were the churches, the museums set up like former homes and businesses, a tour through the city’s largest underground cistern, and a Salvatore Dali exhibit inside a decommissioned church, with his modern sculptures juxtaposed against the ancient medieval cave frescos. As I said the first time we went, it really is a magical place. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6d31a941b.jpeg Behind these facades hide the cave-churches, dwellings, hotels and shops of Matera https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ba727372d.jpeg Inside an underground cave-church, carved right out of the stone...plus some red dots for social distancing. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ccfaac967.jpeg Frescoes in a cave church https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...42c2d68b0.jpeg Cave dwellings “fixed up” for a museum display. In real life the animals would have been on the bottom level, so the people were literally sleeping in the barn. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5710e21dc.jpeg Barbershop in a cave https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...dc1fba3a6.jpeg Walking through an underground cistern. You can see the high water marks on the walls. Not seen here, the holes in the ceiling where buckets were lowered to draw water. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9f4e184e3.jpeg The Duomo (not in a cave) https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d030cfdd8.jpeg Painted wood ceiling in the Duomo https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0898ad956.jpeg Cave church https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d4fc61336.jpeg Cave church https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...54ab9534b.jpeg Dali exhibit in former cave church. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...20fea85d0.jpeg Dali exhibit in former cave church. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c220701d8.jpeg These decorative plates are used to cover the outside of ventilation holes in the caves, creating pretty architectural details along the streets. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3dfeb949b.jpeg Believe it or not, that big boulder at the top has a cave-church inside of it. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d7a38dd5e.jpeg So pretty at night |
Your trip and photos are fabulous! And I'm so jealous! We were in Italy exactly a year ago for 5 weeks and had the best trip ever. We visited some of the same places you did and I would so love to go back! What a treat to be able to be there now with no crowds.
Stay well and safe - and keep posting! It's a pleasure to see these amazing places through your eyes. |
A Trulli Special Place
While we enjoyed Matera and the Amalfi Coast, we were looking forward to being in an AirBnB again after four days of hotels and eating out every meal. Even though we have been choosing only places with outdoor seating due to COVID, we also didn’t want to tempt fate.
Our destination for the next four nights was officially Ostuni, in Puglia, but our home away from home was actually about halfway from that city and Martina Franca, in the Itria Valley. We had spent a week near here one August in the late 90’s, at a working Masseria, which is a typical farm, surrounded by low mortar-less stone walls. Our experience at that time was so phenomenal, it would be impossible to replicate. The place we stayed at then was an agriturismo, a working farm that also provides room and board. It was comprised of a big white farm house, built in the 1700’s from the local stone, which looked like it belonged in Greece rather than Italy. It was surrounded by olive trees and grape vines. They produced their own olive oil, as well as a dessert wine called “primitivo”, made from Zinfandel, with which we finished off dinner every night. By now it’s redundant to say that the food was good, but here it was truly exceptional. Every day they baked fresh bread for that day’s meals. Breakfast always featured homemade jams. Lunches and dinners were epic, always starting with a fresh home made pasta or risotto of eggplant, tomato or seafood. This was followed by a main course, like meatballs stuffed with ham and cheese; “involtini” - beef rolled with herbs inside; peppers stuffed with meat and rice; little pizzas cooked in the wood-burning oven; or excellent mussels, clams and fish. In addition, there were at least 2 or 3 side dishes: fresh vegetables battered and fried, or sautéed in olive oil; salad, cheeses, tomatoes, or incredibly sweet peppers. The meal always ended with a huge bowl of grapes, peaches and other fruit, biscotti, café, and primitivo. It’s a good thing we stayed only a week, or they would have had to roll us out of there. There were about 16 other people there as well, not including the owner, his wife and 2 kids. The basic routine was to go to the beach in the morning, come back for an enormous lunch, take a siesta during the hottest part of the day, and then do something undemanding in the afternoon, like go back to the beach, or visit a nearby town. Dinner was at 9pm, and was usually followed by some activity like tennis, volleyball or soccer, until 1 in the morning. (I played soccer one night, had a great time, and paid for it for the next 2 weeks, with bruises on my shins and toes.) By the end of the week we were joining the owners or other guests at their tables for dinner, or for excursions to buy pottery in the afternoons. The last night was the evening before Ferragosto, one of the biggest holidays of the year. The tradition in this area is to go to the beach and build bonfires. At midnight, everyone jumps into the sea, and then dries off around the fire. It’s surprising how warm the water was that August night over 20 years ago. So anyway, back to the present day. As we approached our destination, driving through rolling hills covered by ancient gnarled olive trees, conical roofed trulli started to pop up like porcini. These are strange mortar-less stone structures that dot the countryside. The theory of their origin is that they were originally not considered permanent structures and therefore, not subject to taxation. The downside of staying in most AirBnB's is that we really miss the pleasure of Italian hospitality, so we were beyond thrilled when we arrived to our current digs, a hamlet of trulli, surrounded by olive trees, on a working farm. The owner was on hand to greet us and, blissfully, she didn’t speak English. Two weeks ago our Italian was pretty rusty, but it’s amazing how much has come back since then, so we were happy to have friendly hosts to talk to. There are a total of four independent accommodations on the property, three in a series of connected trulli, and ours in a stand alone house. Inside the kitchen, the owner had arranged a cornucopia of delicious goodies for us. This included their own olive oil and wine, persimmons, figs, apples, peaches, lemons, tomatoes and squash from the garden, as well as a basket of jam, coffee, cookies and crackers. Inside the fridge they left us fresh pasta, tomato purée, milk, fruit juice and grapes. But the best part is when she showed us to the chicken coop, and emerged with half a dozen fresh eggs, which were still warm! Heaven!! She also showed us the inside of two of the trulli houses that didn’t have guests, which are adorable. They are tastefully decorated and are very comfortable. We would be happy to stay in any of them, but I like our outdoor space the best, with a covered patio, hammocks and a view of the olive trees. We’ve been here a couple days now and have already been given more eggs, as well as tips on where to buy pottery. She told us to help ourselves to anything in the garden, so we have had the sweetest, honey-flavored figs with prosciutto three days in a row. We’ve been so happy, we extended our stay here from 4 to 6 days. We have been doing some sightseeing as well, but that will have to wait for another day. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0726af544.jpeg Trulli captivating https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b88114b5a.jpeg Trulli kitties https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5953647ab.jpeg Life in the slow lane https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...02ca95c01.jpeg Some other trulli in the hood. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...55db53af6.jpeg Nice jugs https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...53dc6ab01.jpeg A curious visitor https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7ffa2c890.jpeg More rooms on the Masseria. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fec3e367e.jpeg More rooms on the masseria. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f2287a43d.jpeg Gate to the garden of earthly delights. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1de561f7d.jpeg Some of the delicious goodies. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...87c457f45.jpeg Enjoying the bounty |
What a trip! All these lovely, wonderful places on my wish list. Beautiful photos.
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Russ, IMHO this above was your best photo array thus far. And your foodic images are great visual appetizers!
Carry on, where next? I am done. The fresh figs. |
Simply splendid, russ_in_LA. It took DH and me several trips to even approach what you achieved. Would you share the name of your "trulli" wonderful bnb? Great shots. and i loved the
2 kitties on the chair. DH and I also got a giant wow re the Pamphilj. We spied a Jansen Interceptor in their lot. |
Russ,
Thanks so much for sharing these photos. We were to go to Italy this spring, for a big birthday (mine), but COVID got in the way. I'm hoping for next spring, as it will be for a big anniversary. Your photos have been inspiring, though, and I'm missing Italy terribly! Keep 'em coming! |
Beautiful, thanks! Paestum and Matera were two of the most interesting places we've been in Italy. We loved Puglia too.
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oh I really must go to Matera. Your photos and descriptions are wonderful.
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Thanks for the feedback on the posts and the photos everyone! I really appreciate it. Below are links to where we are staying currently in Puglia. The first is the house we are in and the other two are the two others that we saw, all on the same property. Of those other two, I like Melegrano the best. FYI, there is a steep stairway (shown in the photos) to access the second bedroom on Trullo Isabella. As I mentioned earlier, I like ours the best for the outdoor space and the view, but it’s not in a trullo.
https://abnb.me/l1sVd3Bwuab https://abnb.me/MfoJiNEwuab https://abnb.me/QiIM2DIwuab
Originally Posted by zebec
(Post 17166559)
Russ, IMHO this above was your best photo array thus far. And your foodic images are great visual appetizers!
Carry on, where next? I am done. The fresh figs. |
Wonderful photos! So enjoyed both Matera and all of the Puglia region. Interested to see Ascoli Piceno as I have not been there.
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Well if you get to Venice proper you might like to say hello to some new residents:
https://video.nuovavenezia.gelocal.i.../131347/131867 |
Originally Posted by annhig
(Post 17166871)
Well if you get to Venice proper you might like to say hello to some new residents:
https://video.nuovavenezia.gelocal.i.../131347/131867 |
Puttering around Puglia
So, we are packing our bags tonight after 5 wonderful days in the beautiful Puglia region.
Our first day was a rainy one, so we explored some towns close to our base in the Itria Valley. Our closest neighbors, whitewashed Cisternina and Locorotondo looked dazzling, even in the rain, but UNESCO listed Alberobello, with over 1500 trulli, definitely stole the show. Although the gray skies didn’t make for the best photos, the rain did help keep the tourists at bay. The next day, with warmer weather and sunny, blue skies, we decided to explore some nearby Adriatic coastal towns. We had a delicious lunch in Monopoli but came up against the fact that everything closes from 1-4pm in the off season, including churches and shops, so we headed to Polignano a Mare, which definitely wins the contest for most photogenic. Hilltop Ostuni, however, was the most fun to wander around. Its serpentine streets in the old town reminding us that we were closer to Greece than to Rome, both architecturally and as the crow flies. The next day, we headed for Lecce, about 100km to the south. There is a really great walking tour of churches, with Greek and Roman ruins and a medieval castle to discover as well. If Baroque ecclesiastical architecture is your thing, Lecce is your place. Definitely the most carvings of flying babies we’ve seen, outside of Rome. The next two days were our bonus days, the two extra we hadn’t originally planned. Saturday we headed for Grottaglie, famous for its pottery and the many workshops you can visit. Our favorite was one studio where the artisan explained to us the story behind the ceramic wine bottle, in the style of a woman with a mustache, that every store seemed to be selling. The story goes like this: At one time, it was decreed that all new brides had to spend their wedding night with the feudal Lord. One young man decided to put an end to this ‘law’ by dressing up in his wife’s wedding dress and presenting himself to the Lord. Armed with a knife, he went to assassinate him. Meandering through the dully lit hallways, he made his way to the Lord’s chamber. However, he was soon arrested because, in his haste, he had forgotten to shave and his disguise was revealed! There are two theories surrounding the outcome of his fate. One was that the Lord was bemused by his audacious plan, that he exonerated him and ordered him to handover all his good wine as a penalty for his actions. Another (more plausible) theory was that he was executed. However, it is believed that from that day forward, brides were spared the ordeal of spending their first evening of marriage with the Lord. So that was fun. Our last day didn’t start out very well. We decided to go have lunch along the Ionian Sea, about an hour south of us, because that is where we had spent so much time on our trip two decades ago. However, this being Sunday, all the restaurants we tried were booked solid with weddings or family engagements or just Sunday dinner. My problem, as a migraine sufferer, is that I can’t change my meal schedule too much or I’ll have a massive headache which can incapacitate me for days. As it was getting late, I was getting a little panicky. In desperation, we called Sale e Pepe, a place near our AirBnB that was owned by friends of our hosts, and got their last table. Showing up two hours after we would normally be eating, the parking lot was a riot of vehicles, parked in every which direction. We were seated in a covered patio that had two other massive tables, one with 18 people and the other with over 50, and the volume was deafening. All the rooms inside were packed as well. It reminded me of the dozens of my family’s Italian-American wedding receptions I had attended over the years. Except this was just a typical Italian post-church Sunday dinner, in which we were the inadvertent participants. We ordered a shared antipasto platter because we thought it would be quick, and it turned out to be the best decision we could have made. What came out was 13 separate plates with a variety of antipasti, which together comprised an entire meal. There was marinated eggplant and cauliflower, battered and fried cauliflower (almost as good as my mother’s), roasted sweet peppers (as good as my mother’s), polpette di pane (deep fried balls of bread with herbs and egg inside), capicollo, stuffed peppers, mozzarella and ricotta cheese, two different kinds of focaccia, beef involtini, a purée of chick peas, and rapini. Pure culinary bliss. The best part: 12 euros per person, reduced to 11 because we were guests of their friends. With water, wine, and the service charge, the total bill came to a whopping 30 euros! So, in the end, I’d say that divine providence was truly with us today. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3f44e1456.jpeg Alberobello https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f4448e19b.jpeg Alberobello https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9dbde71ef.jpeg Alberobello https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1895d06b1.jpeg Monopoli https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e9130892e.jpeg Polignano a Mare https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...eec27edec.jpeg Polignano a Mare https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...54a4f0509.jpeg Polignano a Mare https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a6cb302c9.jpeg Ostuni https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...eec45b718.jpeg Ostuni https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7c1c2ae28.jpeg Ostuni https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0c0bee2d3.jpeg Ostuni https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ab611e537.jpeg Lecce https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...56dfd944d.jpeg Lecce https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...457c00bed.jpeg Lecce https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a658a23d1.jpeg Lecce https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b14fbe2a5.jpeg I though we had a lot of pot in California, but Grottaglie has us beat! https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6c95cfffe.jpeg A bearded bride of Grottaglie https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...415705e00.jpeg Some horses and a pig, because, why not https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fd9ad1271.jpeg Very happy at Sale e Pepe https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2a50fff65.jpeg Sale e Pepe, Trulli wonderful! https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e552fa6a1.jpeg ...and more kitties |
The colors on your Polignano a Mare photo are so pretty.
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Such an interesting part of Italy. Thanks for sharing it with us.
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Now all I've got to do, Russ, is to work out how I'm going to get back to Italy!
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Add me to that list, annhig!
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If I can’t be there at least you are posting beautiful pictures. Following along and enjoying your adventure.
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Alberobello is enchanting. Feels like a fairy tale. The magic symbols. I purchased a couple of silver charms.
Attachment 5046 |
Ascoli Piceno and Ravenna
So, it’s been a busy few days since we left Puglia. We first drove 5 hours to Ascoli Piceno, mostly to break up a 10 hour drive to Venice, but also to see a town we didn’t know much about. Of course, it always seems to rain on our travel days, which I don’t mind so much, given that we are not out walking around in it.
About 3 hours along, we made a stop in Termoli for lunch, a small city on the coast of Molise. Since it was cold and wet, we were worried about finding a place to eat outside, as we are not eating inside due to COVID, but we managed to find a place with a covered terrace overlooking the beach, protected with plastic sheeting, and with only one other table occupied at the extreme other end. They even had heaters, so we were happy. This is the region that my grandparents are from, so I was excited to see cavatelli on the menu, which my mother used to make. I ordered a stuffed eggplant to start with, and the filling tasted just like my mother’s, except she tended to stuff peppers instead. Warm and satisfied, we continued on our way. Ascoli is a charming small city with a very nice central pedestrian zone. Unfortunately, it was also a little disappointing. We could tell that it has a beautiful main square, but there were major renovations happening, with a lot of scaffolding on one side, and a large crane in the middle of it; but it also makes me happy to know that they are maintaining the city for future generations. This was one of only a couple hotel stays, since it was only for one night. Since there was no chance of outdoor seating with the rain and the drop in temperature, we just brought pizza back to the room and called it a night. The next day we had another five hour drive to Venice, so we broke it almost exactly in half with a stop in Ravenna, famous for its 8 UNESCO listed buildings, most built in the 5th and 6th centuries, containing some of the most beautiful mosaics in Italy. We were fortunate enough to not only have a gorgeously crisp but sunny day, but to also find outdoor seating in the sun for lunch in the Piazza del Popolo. Back when we were living in Bologna, I had gone to Ravenna twice a week for a month while teaching English at a company located there. I first met my friend Martin at that time, as he was also commuting from Bologna on the same days to teach another group at the same company, so we would often explore the town while waiting two hours for our return train. At that time you could just wander into these magnificent early-Christian structures, some of which were built on the foundations of older Roman temples. Today, it is a bit more organized, requiring a scheduled appointment at each location; however, this meant that we were often the only people in some of these spaces. I absolutely love mosaics, since they never lose their color, and I’m always amazed at the level of detail they could get with little pieces of glass. If you’re the same, then you won’t want to leave Ravenna off your next Italy itinerary. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7522e2385.jpeg Ascoli Piceno - the already restored side of the Piazza del Popolo https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b1f825045.jpeg Ascoli Piceno - Piazza Arringo https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...dc0032722.jpeg Ravenna - Piazza del Popolo https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0cb534ad6.jpeg Ravenna - Piazza del Popolo https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5e14b2474.jpeg Ravenna https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0c2d4e7ee.jpeg Ravenna https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...01e2e07a1.jpeg Ravenna https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...32b33baf4.jpeg Ravenna https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...26cb51667.jpeg Ravenna https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...08bd66a0a.jpeg Ravenna https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...193fc6d28.jpeg Ravenna https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6a065815e.jpeg Ravenna https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...92f4f0d2c.jpeg Ravenna https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...985f9ea2d.jpeg Ravenna https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...767c77bdd.jpeg Ravenna |
More gorgeous shots! Am enjoying this trip very much.
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<<Add me to that list, annhig!>>
It'll be a while, I'm afraid to say, TD. The UK government just added Italy to the list of countries where you are required to self-isolate for 14 days after you return. Not a surprise but unwelcome nonetheless. More wonderful photos, Russ. I keep promising myself I'll get to Ravenna one day, and there was a possibility I might have made it this year in September but it wasn't to be. Venice has some good ones too: as well as the ones in the Basilica di San Marco [for the best view go up to the museum on the first floor which gives access to the mosaics at eye level] those in the Basilica on Torcello are terrific and well worth the trip if you've not made it before. |
The composition of the photos of the mosaics in Ravenna really shows them off to best advantage. Your report continues to bring back many good memories—thanks!
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Originally Posted by annhig
(Post 17168573)
More wonderful photos, Russ. I keep promising myself I'll get to Ravenna one day, and there was a possibility I might have made it this year in September but it wasn't to be. Venice has some good ones too: as well as the ones in the Basilica di San Marco [for the best view go up to the museum on the first floor which gives access to the mosaics at eye level] those in the Basilica on Torcello are terrific and well worth the trip if you've not made it before. Thanks for the kind words and encouragement everyone! |
La Serenissima
As I mentioned at the beginning of this report, our lengthy Italian sojourn came about because we were supposed to be flying home from France on Oct 1, but with COVID being so bad at home, and Italy being much better (at that time), we decided to delay a bit, to take advantage of the relatively tourist free sights in Italy. We realize how absolutely fortunate we have been dodging the crowds all along our trip, but nothing could quite prepare us for our experience in Venice.
Our first trip to Italy 25 years ago was the last time we drove into Venice, and I remember very little of the logistics. This time, I decided to to make it easy on ourselves and book the closest parking lot to the vaporetto stop at Piazzalle Roma. This turned out to be a good move, since throughout this trip Sam has insisted on bringing along every jar and bottle of unfinished jam, wine, olive oil, and laundry detergent, in addition to our suitcases. I’m not saying that this wasn’t a good idea, but knowing that we had a five story walk-up apartment waiting on the back-end of this leg, I decided to start it with the shortest front-end slog possible. This ended up working out perfectly, as we exited the car park directly onto the vaporetto quay, just in front of the ticket office. When we were living in Bologna, we must have gone to Venice half a dozen times, and yet that 45 minute ride on the Grand Canal to Piazza San Marco never fails to take my breath away. It has to be the most beautiful “bus” ride in the world, with front row seats to views of many of the most celebrated palazzi and bridges in the city. We were super happy when we arrived at our AirBnB apartment on the top floor, with a great view of the San Marco Campanile. The location was spectacular, only 30 seconds away from St Mark’s Square, but hidden on a quiet side street. We dropped off our bags as quickly as possible and dashed out the door, in order to catch the fading rays of twilight. Entering the piazza, our jaws positively dropped. Never have see seen it so devoid of people. There couldn’t have been more than 20 people on the entire square. After a little prayer of thanks to the travel gods, we walked toward the Basilica, turning right and past the Doge’s Palace, hanging a left at the water, before stopping at the Bridge of Sighs. Without the normal hoards jostling for position, we were actually able to take our time to admire it. It felt absolutely decadent. After a trip to the market for provisions and dinner at our place, I went for a solo walk. Piazza San Marco was starting to take on a few inches of water with the high tide, just as it normally does this time of year, but that was the only thing normal. No vendors hawking cheap souvenirs were to be found. No music from jazz trios or string quartets wafted romantically across the square. No clinking of glasses or peels of laughter emanated from the porticoed cafes, all of which were shuttered tight. Just the beautiful reflection of the lights in the gently rippling water; and silence - serene, but eerie silence. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5f69ead2e.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...201e83c1a.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9990ad1ec.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...923c3bdaa.jpeg An almost empty Rialto Bridge. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...305417532.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...588524878.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e296c81b1.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c5c02fda8.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d4345f5e3.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...824225353.jpeg That ripple in the middle is water coming up into the square. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...845dec627.jpeg |
Incredible! You are fortunate to be able to experience all these wonderful places without it being jammed with tourists. Love your TR and esp your photos. I know each of your posts brings a smile to my face. Thank you for taking the time to do this.
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Just WOW! More soon, per favore!
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Just feeling soooo jealous that you got to see Venice like that. I was so tempted but mainly I didn't want to run the risk of being required to quarantine when I got back because I wouldn't be able to see my mum for a fortnight. . As I suspected the UK gov finally introduced it starting tonight but my mum is in lockdown anyway because one of the staff where she lives tested positive. Ironic or what?
But I'm so glad you got to see it like that and have been able to share your photos with us. I have some that Bill and I took on our first trip to Venice back in about 1983 and even then it wasn't that empty. Do you mind if I ask for details of the air Bnb you stayed in in case I get an overwhelming urge that I can't resist? |
Originally Posted by annhig
(Post 17168835)
Just feeling soooo jealous that you got to see Venice like that. I was so tempted but mainly I didn't want to run the risk of being required to quarantine when I got back because I wouldn't be able to see my mum for a fortnight. . As I suspected the UK gov finally introduced it starting tonight but my mum is in lockdown anyway because one of the staff where she lives tested positive. Ironic or what?
But I'm so glad you got to see it like that and have been able to share your photos with us. I have some that Bill and I took on our first trip to Venice back in about 1983 and even then it wasn't that empty. Do you mind if I ask for details of the air Bnb you stayed in in case I get an overwhelming urge that I can't resist? https://abnb.me/EfPoThtnFab Fantastic location, one minute from Piazza San Marco, but hidden on a quiet side street. 3 minute walk from San Marco vaporetto stop. Lots of windows, so nice and bright, and being on the top floor meant a great view, and privacy (higher than adjacent buildings so no one can see in), as well as no noisy neighbors above. Heating, hot water and WiFi all worked really well, and the bed was very comfortable. Having a real clothes dryer (not a washer/dryer combo) was awesome. The place was clean and the house keeper who met us even helped with our bags. A rare two bedroom, two bathroom (one ensuite). FYI, since were preparing and eating all meals at home due to COVID, we found the kitchen to be a bit lacking. There were only 3 forks, which could be a problem for four people 😉. No pasta drain (colander), no cheese grater, no dish towels. There is a fridge but no freezer. There are no clothes closets, although there is a clothes hanging rack in the living room. We didn’t need the a/c, but be aware it is only in the living-room and not the bedrooms, if going in heat of summer. The 67 stairs up to the apartment could be a challenge for some, but it was fine for us. Despite any minor inconveniences, I would stay there again and would highly recommend it, especially if you don’t plan on cooking. |
When we headed back to St. Mark’s the next morning, there was a bit more activity, with a total of about 50 people on the square. The morning high tide was peaking, leaving about 50% of the piazza under 3 to 4 inches of water. Surprisingly, the cafes were open - the servers seeming to walk on water, while catering to the intrepid explorers who had the foresight to pack appropriate footwear. For the less prepared, raised platforms were placed end to end, creating a bridge across the ephemeral lake in the square, where a steady parade of tourists shuffled along, like a row of penguins in a nature film. We joined a line that seemed to be heading into the basilica, only to be told it was closed for renovations. We were devastated. We were so looking forward to the beautiful mosaics inside. It was cold comfort to be told that we could still enter the museum, which we had never done before.
Fortunately, the museum is accessed by stairs just to the right of the main doors of the cathedral, so we were still able to admire the gorgeous mosaics which decorate every surface of the domed ceiling vaults and pillars of the vestibule. What we hadn’t realized was that this museum is actually on the balcony at the back of the basilica, giving us spectacular views of the ceilings and walls, from an even closer vantage point than had we entered the church through the front door. I was so overwhelmed by the sight, I had to suppress the urge to burst into tears. The museum also gives you access to the terrace overlooking St. Mark’s Square and the campanile, as well as a view past the Doge’s Palace to the lagoon. While not exactly empty up there, it was possible to take photos without being in everyone else’s way. In fact, people were generally friendly and patient, one local Venetian woman even exclaiming in Italian, to no one in particular, that Venice was the most beautiful city in the world. At that moment, I had to agree. Since the weather report was predicting rain for the next day, we decided to spend the rest of the day wandering around and enjoying the views outdoors. We wound our way to the Rialto Bridge, then up to the old Jewish Ghetto area and back. Since the day was warmer than expected, we decided to splurge on what would be our only meal out in Venice, stopping at the lovely deck of the Gritti Palace Hotel, right on the Grand Canal, with views of passing gondolas backed by the picturesque Santa Maria della Salute. Certainly the prices were double that which could be found elsewhere; but there was the million dollar view, as well as the excellent food and service, and we were the only customers there for the first hour. Later that afternoon, after many more miles of walking, we found ourselves back at St Mark’s Square. Needing to give our feet a break, we did something we had never done before, due to the mobs of people. Stopping at one of the cafes that line the square, we chose a table with a killer view of the cathedral, ordered a drink and soaked it all in. The perfect end to a nearly flawless day. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0e397709b.jpeg . https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...de418d5fa.jpeg . https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3d24905f5.jpeg . https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...01b31c324.jpeg . https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e9bc0b3d2.jpeg . https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...51aa42adf.jpeg . https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2eabb491e.jpeg . https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...524ed9f0d.jpeg . https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2a05bb0d6.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...839664fcd.jpeg . https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f0c780eb1.jpeg . https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0dd52c9a8.jpeg . https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1f20afa1b.jpeg . https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...cb7f6bafb.jpeg . https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...685f3055c.jpeg . https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...511bfeaa5.jpeg . https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e7f4ab09c.jpeg |
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