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A Mostly Food Paris Trip Report

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A Mostly Food Paris Trip Report

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Old Dec 8th, 2011, 10:24 AM
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I had to loosen my belt a notch part-way through this report
Thanks for this.

Also good to have info on classes. Where did you find out about them?
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Old Dec 8th, 2011, 10:35 AM
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Groan - my stomach hurts just reading about all that food, but at heart I'd love to be able to do the same some day. I think I'd be up for the challenge, but until then, thanks for sharing!
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Old Dec 8th, 2011, 11:15 AM
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Michel_Paris,
I found out about La Cuisine through David Lebowitz's site http://www.davidlebovitz.com/2005/11/cooking-classes-1/

I stumbled on Un Dimanche's class by accident when I was perusing their website and saw "Cours de Cuisine". I was initially just interested in their pastries.
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Old Dec 8th, 2011, 02:55 PM
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Was the food life changing? No, but it was very, very good and the whole experience was so enjoyable that we’d gladly do it again and highly recommend it. It was the perfect last meal of the trip! OK it wasn’t the actual last meal. You didn’t think we’d stop there, did ya? But it was the last “real” meal.>>

i'm not sure about le cinq not being life-changing - if only for the seaweed butter! i have never felt the same about butter again! how do they do it?

interesting that you made the same decisions as us on the menu [no cheese for example, one glass of champagne, a bottle of wine] and spent almost exactly the same! and the service is perfection - i had e-mailed to say that e would be a bit later than we had originally booked for as we had tickets for the Monet exhibition, [lucky us] and when we arrived, they asked us about it. ok, lots of places manage to do that, but how many actually manage to sound interested?

I'd love to go back, but DH felt it was really too much to spend on a meal - we could get 3 very good meals for the same price, which I do feel is a very valid point. so on our next visit, we'll be eating well, but not that well!
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Old Dec 8th, 2011, 03:21 PM
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You're right that seaweed butter WAS life changing! I wanted to dunk the rest in my purse
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Old Dec 8th, 2011, 05:31 PM
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My totally inexpert opinion: I think Briffard's cooking is extraordinary, very precise, and yes, innovative (for working within what I guess is the classic tradition)--but you went there last! And the portions are not small, to say the least. Neither are the prices. I almost said, "Oh, put it Le Cinq the middle when you'll most appreciate it." But of course sometimes it's so nice to save the luxe meal for the finale.

I have a hankering to return to Le Grande Cascade, such a beautiful setting and such fine food. I just looked at David Lebowitz's photostream of his meal there. I want that high-priced macaroni.
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Old Dec 9th, 2011, 05:46 AM
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I'm no expert either and may not fully appreciate that style of cooking. I had some difficulty recalling what I ate after we left. I just remembered it was all really enjoyable vs more vivid impressions of some of the other meals we had.
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Old Dec 9th, 2011, 11:51 AM
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Hi Patty
Thanks for sharing your trip. Going through your pictures was like watching a favorite movie that you hate to see come to an end. You've given me some new ideas for my trip next year.
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Old Dec 9th, 2011, 11:55 AM
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just been buying some books on amazon, and in order to bring my order within the free delivery, i added a copy of the Paris mapguide, and Paris, city walks.

any foodie books I've missed?
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Old Dec 9th, 2011, 01:03 PM
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I don't have any book recs. I did all my research online, mainly on Chowhound, Paris by Mouth, Hungry for Paris, John Talbott and the mother of all foodie trips http://uhockey.blogspot.com/2011_04_01_archive.html (and you thought we ate a lot )
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Old Dec 9th, 2011, 02:15 PM
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Mon dieu! how does he do it?

7 course lunch at le cinq followed by a 3 course meal at night? and all that detail - magnifique!

funny how many of the restaurants are in the 17th - i loved the description of le pre catalan.

most of it I think we would just find too much - as I get older I just can't take it, and DH finds that even more. but I should love to do one of the tasting type menus one night - do you have anywhere that you can recommend?
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Old Dec 9th, 2011, 02:42 PM
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You might like the carte blanche at Septime. The courses were small so you're not too full at the end of the meal. The atmosphere is casual, don't know if you were looking for something more formal.

We never made it to Sola but I believe they do a 6 course dinner (and maybe even a longer one).

I think the carte blanche at Chez L'Ami Jean would be huge, not sure of Bistro Volnay.

Were you looking for something with even more, smaller courses?
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Old Dec 10th, 2011, 05:08 AM
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hi patty,

thanks for the ideas. sola looks interesting, i'm not sure about Septime as they don't appear to have a website [or is google letting me down?] Chez l'ami Jean looks more like our sort of place, but I'm still trying to navigate their website - why can't they just tell you what they cook and how much it costs? is that too much to ask?

fortunately we have plenty of time to do the research before we go!
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Old Dec 10th, 2011, 06:01 AM
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Septime doesn't have a website. I believe the menu changes daily.

Yeah, there's not much on Chez L'Ami Jean's site. They cook a lot of meat Other than the 3 menus (the 3 course had several choices), I think they always have charcuterie and the gigantic entire foie gras for 2 (or 3 or 4). The rest of the a la carte was hand written with 10-12 items. Our starters and mains off the a la carte were each around 40.
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Old Dec 11th, 2011, 01:57 AM
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thanks, Patty. How far in advance did you make your table reservations?
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Old Dec 11th, 2011, 05:39 AM
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annhig here is a thread from Chowhound on Chez L'Ami Jean prices from Oct. http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/813137 It isn't definitive since it seems to depend upon what is served in some of the tasting menus.

We will be in Paris the same time as you. I noticed that you mentioned that to Nikki, a friend that we met at a Boston GTG and who lives close by. I might put up a GTG request closer to March and see if we can get a group together.
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Old Dec 11th, 2011, 06:00 AM
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annhig,
I started making reservations about a month out but tinkered with it until about a week out. I think the last reservation I made was for Bistro Volnay and I changed the date of our Septime dinner 2 weeks out.

That Chowhound thread is a bit strange cause the 2 tasting menus were clearly indicated on the carte to be 55 and 80. Their carte is a big book filled with cartoons that doesn't look like it would be reprinted often but perhaps the actual price really does depend on the mood of Jego The 3 course (with choices) was printed on a small inserted leaflet and the rest of the a la carte was on a separate hand written board.
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Old Dec 11th, 2011, 06:58 AM
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I might put up a GTG request closer to March and see if we can get a group together.>>

AGM - sounds like a great idea - i think that Nikki and I have fixed on the monday night as being the only available time that we have that overlaps. hopefully that would suit you too.

Patty - what you say chimes in with the comments on the chowhound board link AGM has given - I'm not sure about the "bonus" though!
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Old Dec 11th, 2011, 02:30 PM
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annhig- I will leave Monday open for a GTG. Our schedule isn't as structured as Nikki's.
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Old Dec 12th, 2011, 07:55 AM
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AGM - w'll have to try to work something out nearer the time.
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