Judy

Thanks, Patty, it worked. Beautiful photos!!

Patty

Thursday December 1
Breakfast today was a canele from Fauchon. Somehow I managed to get lost on the way there and had to huff it back quickly to get ready for lunch Lunch at Kei offered an option of 4 courses for 38 or 6 courses for 68. It’s basically a no choice menu except for the main meat – we could have pork, duck or fish but it had to be the same for the whole table. We went with the 4 course with duck and added a black truffle supplement of 10 euros to the gnocchi course. The meal started with a refreshing amuse of scallop and ginger. Then we moved on to the pate de foie with pear and caramel sauce followed by the gnocchi with iberico ham and black truffle (this was gooooood and I’m so glad we added the truffle). Duck with potiron sauce was next. This was the only course where I felt it needed something extra to complement the duck although Mark felt it was fine and you could really focus on the flavor of the duck. Dessert was green tea ice cream, mango sorbet and yuzu meringue. I’m really liking the light desserts on these last 2 meals and this coming from a total chocoholic says a lot! Mignardises were salted madeleines with caramel sauce and this little orange burst made of mango and passion fruit. Overall probably our second favorite meal. 170 total with 2 glasses of champagne, 3 glasses of wine and a bottle of water.

It’s raining so we decided to take a taxi back. Halfway there our driver gets into a heated argument with a motorcyclist who backed into his car. It was very amusing to watch. A lot of yelling and posturing and then just as suddenly they stopped and each went their way. In the US, someone would have ended up dead

We had our chocolate truffle class at Un Dimanche this evening so decided to head out for an early bite. We didn’t want a full meal and stopped at Little Breizh to find that they weren’t open yet. L’Avant Comptoir was already jammed. We ended up having a microwaved pizza at Kayser. Later I remembered Cosi was in the same neighborhood and we could’ve gone there but pizza at Kayser was fine.

Class was fun. There were only 4 of us and they had an extra person just to translate for the two of us. We made truffles with 2 different ganaches, nature and pink peppercorn. We ended up with 4 boxes and 3 jars of take home. It’s a lot of work making so many truffles!

annhig

We had our chocolate truffle class at Un Dimanche this evening so decided to head out for an early bite. We didn’t want a full meal >>

really? I don't know whether to be green with envy or a little queasy at the amount you managed to put away! honestly i say this out of admiration for your devotion to duty, firstly in doing all this culinary research and secondly for recording it for posterity.

i loved the photos [I had the same problem as Judy with the first lot] and am so looking forward to finding out what you thought of le cinq.

keep it coming - I'm feeling hungry again now.

Patty

Thanks

The hardest part is going back to "normal" eating at home.

Patty

Friday December 2
Ugghh, I have trouble waking up again and we’re 15 minutes late to class. Many apologies and we dove right into mixing flour, yeast, water and salt for our baguette and fougasse class at La Cuisine Paris. There were 8 of us in class and we each made 4 mini baguettes and 2 fougasses. We learned how stupid simple it was to shape an epi and got to choose the fillings for our fougasses. The 3 hours went by so fast and we learned a lot. Right before the class it had dawned on me that we’d probably have a lot of take home again and canceled our lunch at Sola. Instead we ate our fougasses in a park while they were still warm. It was a beautiful sunny afternoon. We got a 10% discount card to E. Dehillerin for taking the class so headed there. It was so wonderfully overwhelming that we walked out with nothing. Maybe I can save the card for next time.

We stopped at Juveniles again for more beaujolais and then macarons at Hugo & Victor. These were our favorite macarons. The flavors were uncomplicated, no foie, no truffle, no gold leaf but the meringue had a melt in your mouth soft interior with a very crispy exterior. It’s all about the meringue!

Dinner was at Bistro Volnay. It was nice to literally walk a few steps there. There was a couple from San Francisco who tried to walk in that really wanted to eat there. They were only there til Monday so this was their only opportunity. I felt bad for them. If we had a slightly bigger table I would’ve even asked if they could somehow squeeze in with us. There was a 3 course for 38 euros with choices of starters, mains and dessert and a 6 course degustation at 55. We didn’t think we could manage the 6 course so stuck with 3. There were many game dishes, some with supplement. The lobster came with a heavy supplement which I somehow managed to cut out of the photo. Dinner started with some rillettes and really light, airy gougeres making me realize how much I suck at making them Mark had the lievre and foie terrine and the lobster with tarragon. I started with razor clams and moved on to partridge. Everything was very tasty and again high end bistro in style. It was very dark inside the restaurant so the pics don’t really do the dishes justice. For dessert Mark had an incredibly light soufflé and I had the riz au lait. We finished with some macaron mignardises and chocolate truffles. All together it was 147 including 2 glasses of champagne, 2 glasses of wine and coffee.

We returned to the hotel to find a card and some apology gifts waiting in our room. I had a problem with reception earlier in the day resulting in a conversation with the guest relations manager. Suffice to say it was resolved satisfactorily. Other than that we had absolutely perfect service here and it was a noticeable step up from the Renaissance (but I still really like the Ren as well).

ParisJo

Wow, I am having serious food envy right now! Your pictures had me salivating and your descriptions are delicious to read.

Our last few trips to Paris have been food centered as well ~ I spend way too much time on Chowhound and Paris by Mouth making my list and checking it twice. Looks like you did your research as well. Can't wait to read more!

Jo

Piccolina

Thank you for sharing your foodie adventures with us! I'm impressed with your research and reservations for the restaurnts. I also do the same when it is a "food" trip!

Patty

Saturday December 3
We walked to Chez L’Ami Jean in the rain and wind (which again I barely woke up in time for) and my useless REI travel umbrella snapped right away. Oh well, sharing an umbrella is very cozy. Lunch at Chez L’Ami Jean offered the option of a 3 course at 42, a 5 course petit voyageur at 55, a carte blanche at 80 as well as a la carte. The dishes on the 3 course didn’t sound that interesting to us and we momentarily considered ordering carte blanche but chickened out and ordered a la carte knowing how large the portions are here. We ended up sharing a starter, each ordering a main and sharing a dessert which I thought was perfect. We started with the roasted scallops (yummy) and Mark had the deer while I had the wood pigeon. I was warned it was gamey but loved it. Of course we had to have to riz au lait. The servers here were funny and jokey and we had a great time. Cost was 145 with 2 glasses of wine and coffee.

We decided to pop into Gregory Renard for macarons since we were in the neighborhood as I had heard great things. I have to say I didn’t find them that special and the service was very off putting. It’s the only place this trip where we received service bordering on rude (and there was no one else in the store so it wasn’t as if they were busy), actually the only place I can recall on any trip, and that might have colored my perception of their macarons.

We slowly meandered our way into the 6th and checked out the Hermes Rive Gauche store. There were lots of people going in and out of the store but it's big inside and didn't feel crowded. I admired a pair of gloves but decided they were too nice to forget somewhere and passed. I can be pretty absent minded and already left a pair in a taxi earlier in the week. On previous trips I’ve left my camera in a Miami taxi, a bag with camera, video camera, gps, 2 pairs of binos and who knows what else in the Air France boarding area at LAX and my bag with cash, tickets and passports in the lounge at the Nairobi Hilton. Through the benevolence of others, I’ve gotten everything back except the gloves. We sat for a little while in their tea salon and I had a rooibos while Mark had a glass of wine but no alcohol is served without food here so we were forced to have some charcuterie as well

We went into Bon Marche but found it too hot and crowded and left quickly. Stopped at both Patrick Roger and Richart for chocolates. BTW I want you to know that I brought most of my chocolates home. I did not eat them all there. My carry on was full of chocolate on the flight back. Anyone wanna come over for a tasting?

I found a cute little sweater for my niece but forget the name of the shop. Stopped for a glass of wine at Cosi where we were forced to buy a focaccia. A salted caramel macaron at Un Dimanche was next (if it sounds like we’re eating our way through the day, it’s because we’re eating our way through the day ).

Dinner was at Little Breizh where we were able to get a table as an early walk in. By 8:00pm the place was packed. I had the bacon, egg and mushroom and Mark had the scallop, bacon and onion and we shared a salted caramel crepe for dessert, so simple and so delicious. It came to 48 euros with 3 pichets of cider.

TPAYT

Eating your way through the day sounds good to me and I am enjoying every bite with you.

I have started a thread about presentation in France and your photos (and joan's) of the gorgeous presentation of the French food says it all.

Merci!

Patty

Sunday December 4
Our final day! I woke up with a pastry craving but was too lazy to go out and get one so ordered a kouign amann from room service. Is that all you want madame? Oui. Two minutes later a plate showed up with 2. Not on par with the one we had at La Patisserie des Reves but it will do. After my little brekkie, we walked over to the Carrousel du Louvre so I could buy some chocolates from La Maison du Chocolat. There’s a huge line wrapping around the entire shopping center to get into the Louvre but it looked like it was moving quickly.

Lunch today was at Le Cinq, another of our most looked forward to meals and it didn’t disappoint! The opulent room, the Christmas decorations, I was giddy before we even sat down. The lunch menu at 85 is a 3 course with the option to add a cheese course for 97 total. A la carte was available as well and I can’t remember if the larger tasting menu was available too. We both went with the lunch menu which had a choice of 3 starters, 2 mains and 3 desserts. Lunch started with a pre-amuse of smoked salmon and ravioli filled with chard. The wine list was huge! We enjoy wine with meals but don’t really know wine so went with one of the sommelier’s recommendations, a white Chateauneuf du Pape, based on what we ordered. I think a little olive oil tasting followed. There were so many little things that it’s hard to remember them all and I might be going in the wrong order.

Bread service came with regular and seaweed butter (oh, the seaweed butter!). The amuse consisted of a white bean emulsion, horseradish gelee and eel. Mark settled on the veal tartare with salmon roe and oyster and I had the pasta with artichoke and mushroom to start. They were concerned when I didn’t finish my pasta but I told them I was saving room for later (I had a plan). Mark had the duck for his main which was a huge portion (so glad I didn’t order that) and I had the scallops which came with a refreshing coriander sorbet on the side.

We both declined the cheese course. The neighboring table had it so we were able to see the presentation. The servings were big. Pre-dessert was a sheep’s milk yogurt with olive oil and cucumber gelee, nice and light. Then a glass of very pure water (it really did taste very clean) or maybe the water came before. Mark chose the chocolate fondant for dessert while I had the sacher biscuit. Finally the mignardise cart was rolled over (this is what I’d been planning for). There were about 13 different items. I had to try one of each and almost managed to finish them all. Then we were presented with a small box of caramels to go. Our bill with 1 glass of champagne, 1 bottle of wine, water, coffee and tea came to 316.

Was the food life changing? No, but it was very, very good and the whole experience was so enjoyable that we’d gladly do it again and highly recommend it. It was the perfect last meal of the trip! OK it wasn’t the actual last meal. You didn’t think we’d stop there, did ya? But it was the last “real” meal.

Later we walked through the Christmas market again and I found some cute booties for my nephew. I saw a woman with a boy about the same age, mangled enough words to make myself understood and she graciously helped me select the right size. We walked a bit further on the Champs Elysees and went into the Citroen showroom. I’m constantly amazed by the amount of effort put into presentation here. It was more like a museum than a car dealer. We decided to check out the Marriott as we almost stayed here just for a change. It seemed very nice but I’m glad we didn’t as it didn’t have the boutique-y feel we prefer. While there, we stop at the bar and Mark decided to order a Jack Daniels. I don’t know why cause he rarely drinks whisky. We got the bill and holy @#%! 38 euros! Never order a Jack Daniels at the Marriott.

For our final dinner, we shared a saucisse de Toulouse at the Christmas market, a fitting end to our 8 days of indulgence I think. We walked back to the hotel in the light rain, packed (making sure all the chocolates were in the carry on) and set a wake up call for the next morning. Mark was getting a little worried about me making it to the airport on time at this point.

Monday December 5
I’m up, dressed and ready to go by 7:30am. I told him not to worry. Mark feels like he’s coming down with something but we’re both just happy it didn’t happen til today. What a shame it would’ve been to miss Le Cinq! Traffic’s a little heavy this morning but we arrive at CDG by taxi in about an hour. Boarding was slightly delayed but we make up all the time and then some in the air. As I’m wolfing down the bad airline food like it’s my last meal on earth, I realize how much my appetite has grown in the past week. I kept asking for snacks too. First some sucre, then some sale, then some more sucre. Well, that has come to a grinding halt now that I’m home. On arrival at LAX we breezed through immigration and customs and our shuttle driver pulls up right as we walk out. Really this has been an amazingly smooth trip!

denisea

We went to Le Cinq last year on Christmas Day. You just have to do it once! Loved Un Dimanche a Paris. I am jealous that we missed so much of the great patisseries you went to...the stomach virus we both got messed up those plans but glad you made it.

PS You better get an alarm clock!!!!

StCirq

I love reading this, but I can't begin to imagine living it (same with joan's reports). I just can't fathom how someone can eat that much food day after day. I'm envious, but I'd be a whale, and I'm a committed foodie! I must have the wrong metabolism.

Leely2

I've traveled in Kenya with Patty and Mark, and they are normal people! Really.

Well, anyway, their appetites are normal...

AGM_Cape_Cod

I was so excited to see this trip report this morning. We are going back to Paris in March. A main part of our fun in Paris is dining out so I am doing my homework. thanks for all the good information

Nikki

"My carry on was full of chocolate on the flight back. Anyone wanna come over for a tasting?"


Time and place?

joeyi

Great Report, adds a lot of explanation to the photos which are wonderful too. Thanks for posting Patty.

YankyGal

This was great. We eat pretty frugally in Paris (including cooking our own meals), so this is a whole 'nother world for me - makes it a fun read!

Thanks so much for adding the costs for everything - it's very helpful for future planning.

Welcome back to reality!

Patty

Thanks again for the comments everyone! It was fun to relive my trip (and thanks, Leely, for pushing me to write this in the first place). Here's the correct photo link again for anyone that missed it http://www.kodakgallery.com/gallery/...05%3A634459534 Sorry for the non-functioning one at the top.

Denise,
I was sorry to hear that you and Chaz both got sick. I really enjoyed your report and the one from last year (it was part of my research).

Nikki,
Are you in the LA area?

For the record, we don't eat anything like this on a day to day basis. We don't even go out to eat that much cause we do a lot of cooking at home. When I said I did some stomach stretching exercises I wasn't kidding! The week before we left we had three 3 course restaurant meals out and of course, there was Thanksgiving to help me along. My first attempt at eating was really pathetic but I got better. This is just how dedicated I am The only problem is now that I'm home, I'm hungry all the time!

TDudette

My goodness, Patty, I gained 10 pounds just reading this wonderful report. Oh to have a faster metabolism! Great food shots and I'm so jealous of the cooking lessons. Merci!

Nikki

Sadly, I am on the other side of the continent, but I can get a vicarious taste by reading this report. Thanks.