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Found it!
Torta di Cioccolato e Pere - chocolate torte with pears |
In Le Marche, where I live, panettone is more appreciated than pandoro. A lot of bakeries make their own panettone, but the pandoro is always commercially made. There are several riffs on panettone. Some have raisins but no candied fruit. Some have berries instead of any other fruit. One bakery in my town makes a chocolate and pear panettone.
Moving on to another cultural feature: squat toilets were already rare here in central Italy when I arrived in 1998. I haven't seen one in years. Some years ago, I taught a summer course at the University of Hawaii. In one of the women's toilets there was a sign requesting that women who squatted or hovered should raise the seat first. (It was an amusing sign, but I can't remember the rhyme.) So apparently some people turn a normal toilet into a squat toilet. I wondered if it was because that in Asia squat toilets are very common. (I also once taught in China, where squat toilets were the norm 40 years ago, and you were well advised to roll your trousers up.) |
And speaking of aim: there is a sign in a unisex toilet near here that says, "Men: it's not as long as you think it is. Take a step forward."
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bvlenci - similar signs are quite common in New Zealand, where they get a lot of Asian tourists.
https://www.thesignmaker.co.nz/produ...ign-squatting/ We've recently seen the squat toilets in a restaurant in Bellagio, at one of the sacred mounts we visited and at Tre Cime di Lavaredo, which was memorable for all the wrong reasons:) |
Dec 27 -
Our day began with a visit to the COOP for provisions. It was a sunny 28F with a high of 43F expected; good walking weather. We dropped off our shopping and then walked to the rail station, where we caught the 10:23 am train to Miralago, with plans to walk the 7.4 km loop around Lago di Poschiavo (2.70 chf each, half fare). The Miralago rail station was a construction zone; from there we sought out the sunny side of the lake and followed the path to Le Prese, the lake shimmering in the sunshine. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bcd9587fda.jpg Lago di Poschiavo https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...41f46b8a8a.jpg Lago di Poschiavo https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a928338275.jpg Lago di Poschiavo https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a4c98a7243.jpg Near La Prese Near La Prese we detoured, following a woody trail that led us to a swing overlooking the lake. We both took turns on the swing, later learning that this was the first of several Swing the World installations planned for Valposchiavo. https://www.valposchiavo.ch/de/erleb...haukeln?id=762 https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...87d7450a33.jpg Detour The three-mile walk had taken just under an hour; the day beautiful, the views gorgeous. This side of the lake was still in the dark and didn’t look particularly scenic as it followed the railway line, so we decided to take a train to Tirano for one last Italian lunch, as we were already a third of the way there. We bought tickets online (3.90 chf each half fare) for the 30-minute journey, which would take us over the Brusio viaduct again. As we waited for our train at the La Prese station, a Bernina Express train passed, trundling along the railway tracks that share the street with road traffic, mere meters from the surrounding buildings. Had we been inclined, we could have reached out and touched it as it passed. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...26f9ef810e.jpg Passing train, La Prese https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...52d4b149d3.jpg Passing train, La Prese Our regional train arrived a short time later. Evidently, a kid on our carriage had puked before we got on; his mom was cleaning up and kept sniffing herself, her husband, their clothing and their backpacks, making us think it must have been the projectile variety. She’d opened the windows around them, thank goodness. Once in Tirano we walked through town looking for a place for lunch, randomly selecting the very busy El Trigo Pancaffetteria e Pasta Fresca, snagging the last table. This was another small restaurant with tiny tables very close to one another; we Americans are definitely spoiled with space. I chose the tagliatelle with red sauce, onions and bacon (€8.50), a huge serving that Bill had to help me with. He chose the Valtellinesi Ravioli (buckwheat ravioli stuffed with bresaola and ricotta, covered in cream sauce (€9.50), which he proclaimed “fantastic”. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e7f9936466.jpg Valtellinesi Ravioli (better than it looks) This excellent lunch was washed down with prosecco for me (€3 a glass) and a nice Grumello for Bill (€4 a glass), total of €35 including €1.50 each coperto). Afterwards we wandered up and down the streets of Tirano, eventually popping into Gelateria Lollipop for one last gelato fix; scoops of Biscotti, fior di latte, and chocolate for me (€3.50), scoops of fior di latte and pistachio for Bill (€3). We noticed that they had Braulio, an herbal liquor from the alps. Bormio is the birthplace of Amaro Braulio and we wanted to try it at the cellars there, but we couldn’t get a reservation, so figuring this was our last chance, we ordered a shot to share (€3.50). Evidently, it’s an acquired taste; it reminded us both of Ricola. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ef47122b58.jpg Gelateria Lollipop We then wandered some more, hit a grocery store for a few things, then had aperitivo at Bistrot Merizzi. I have fond memories of sitting at a window seat here years ago, sipping gluhwein, but the place felt entirely different this time. More upscale, less café-like, more bar. We nursed one last negroni (€14) while awaiting our train back to Poschiavo. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fb05c89b8f.jpg Pop-up ice rink, Tirano https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b3d0128bee.jpg Tirano https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...901e660384.jpg Tirano Tirano had felt pretty busy, making us think it must be crazy in season. We’ve been here before a few times, but as with many visitors, ours were just short stops between trains. I’ve heard many people poo-poo Tirano, but we saw more of it today than on previous visits, and I kind of liked it. Our return train to Poschiavo was near empty, only two other people on our carriage (5.10 chf each, half fare). https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b4b288e4ff.jpg Tirano rail station We arrived in Poschiavo after dark, where we played chicken with the cars whipping through town as we walked back to the apartment. So far Poschiavo felt like Italy…with Swiss prices. To be continued… |
Dec 28 -
We popped into the tourist office to ask about hikes at Alp Grum; the woman there was unsure about trail conditions, but suggested we get off the train in Cavaglia and walk the snowshoe loop as there was probably very little snow. So, we bought train tickets to Alp Grum (5.10 chf each, half fare), planning to head there first, and then stop at Cavaglia on the return. We were surprised at how busy the train was; we had to stand the entire way. Alp Grum, situated at 2,091 meters, is another highlight on the Bernina railway line. The Bernina Express trains stop here for about 20 minutes to let passengers get off to take in the views which extend over the Val Poschiavo as far as the Bergamaster Alps and the Vadret da Palü glacier. A Bernina Express train had arrived before us, disgorging a mob of people; we almost missed the stop, as their train was blocking the station sign, and no one else on our train got off; evidently they were headed to St Moritz. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...927a81d013.jpg Views from Alp Grum https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8a15df9b5f.jpg Arrival of Bernina Express https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...cd5d3e7811.jpg Arrival of Bernina Express Peace was restored when the Bernina Express train left; we wandered a bit, took in the views, and waffled about whether to return on the next train, stick around for a drink on the terrace of the restaurant, or try to find a hike. I don't think we've ever been to Alp Grum on such a pretty day. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ccf1f4af99.jpg Alp Grum, minus the crowds The hike down to Cavaglia looked like a possibility, but after checking online and discovering the one-hour hike involved a 1,320-foot descent, and having no idea of the trail’s condition, we decided to give it a pass. We'd doubled up our coats and taken our gloves/mittens, but it was weirdly warm and near snowless up here, which was very disconcerting. I was seriously bugged out about how warm it'd been during the past month. Then another Bernina Express train arrived, and another mob was disgorged. This train blocked the track that our regional train was due to arrive on, so I asked a conductor and was told their train would move in time for us to board ours. We then took the train down to Cavaglia, located the winter snowshoe trail, surprised to find bare pavement in spots and crusty deep snow in others, making it unsuitable for snowshoeing and difficult for walking, but it was peaceful and sunny. We trudged around a bit, but it was a bust. We returned to the station and awaited the next train to Poschiavo (5.10 chf each, half fare from Alp Grum). https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2222b2a03a.jpg Cavaglia https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...adcd9d9af9.jpg Cavaglia https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...cfde93cccb.jpg Taken from aboard the train Back in Poschiavo we decided to locate the paved trail to San Carlo; the woman in the tourist office had told us there was a Philharmonic concert at the San Carlo church tonight at 8:30. We were trying to determine if we wanted to make the walk in the dark and how long it would take, as the bus schedule was a bit inconvenient. The woman suggested we try to catch a ride back to Poschiavo after the concert from another attendee. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c3c1501b7b.jpg Poschiavo https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9fa1419291.jpg Poschiavo We walked about 30 minutes uphill towards San Carlo, but the church still looked some distance away, further uphill. We backtracked to town just as the sun was disappearing behind the mountains - this at 2:40 pm. We decided that if we went to the concert, we'd take the 8:05 bus there and then walk back or take the 10:30 pm return bus, but not knowing how long the concert was, that might mean standing in the dark and cold for a while afterwards. Back at the apartment, we fired up the raclette warmer for an early dinner. We’d picked up a large packet of raclette; it was so good that we decided to return to the COOP to get more pickled onions to finish off the cheese and pickles tomorrow, knowing it would be closed on Sunday. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e8af3916d2.jpg Raclette https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bb94982f23.jpg Raclette After our cheese fest, it seemed unlikely we'd want to bundle up and go out again in the cold dark. We looked online for details about the concert, and unable to find any, decided we’d not make the effort. The temperature reached 51 F in Poschiavo today. To be continued… |
I’ve wanted to explore Poschiavo, and your winter photos of the area just reaffirm that.
We stopped at that lake, too. I love how that train line has so many stops of great interest - it would be frustrating to be on the BE and just whizz through. |
Adelaidean - it doesn't take long to see the village of Poschiavo, but there's quite a bit to see and do in the surrounding area, so it makes a good base.
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Dec 29 -
Our last full day in Poschiavo was a beauty. As the name Val Poschiavo suggests, it's in a valley, and the sun disappears pretty quickly in the winter. Lago di Poschiavo and the village of Le Prese were completely devoid of sun by 1:30; then it disappeared around 2:30 further up the valley in Poschiavo. One must literally make hay while the sun shines, which is generally between 10-2 this time of year. The woman in the tourist office yesterday had suggested a walk to Le Prese on the sunny side of the valley from about 10 am. We'd already walked from Miralago to Le Prese and had considered walking back to Poschiavo from there, but didn't know how long or how far it was at the time. Today we decided to find out. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ffae2a30e5.jpg Lago di Poschiavo, aerial photo borrowed from Wikipedia We began walking to Le Prese via a series of paved and dirt paths - there were a lot to choose from and all seemed to head in the same direction towards the lake. Along the way we passed a church, a cemetery and a chicken coop; a cheeky cat climbing the fence to get inside. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f26cb70e25.jpg Walking to Le Prese https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...171626024b.jpg Poschiavo as seen on walk to Le Prese https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...cebeeb17d9.jpg Walking to Le Prese https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...64ae3d047e.jpg Cheeky cat We reached Le Prese in about 1:25 and then considered continuing on to Miralago, which was another hour, but after looking at return bus/train schedules, we decided to go into Le Prese instead and look for lunch, then walk back to Poschiavo via the riverside path. En route we stopped at an outdoor ice rink for a bit to watch the kids. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e9c57778eb.jpg Le Prese We then randomly selected Albergo Lardi Ristorante Da Cesar for a light lunch, knowing we had a pile of raclette to finish in the apartment later. Here we both ordered the Minestra d'orza aka Bündner Gerstensuppe aka barley soup (10.50 chf each) and a glass of house wine (4.20 chf and 4.50 chf each), all very good (total of 29.70 chf). https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...60fec08f42.jpg Albergo Lardi Ristorante Da Cesar Afterwards we walked back to Poschiavo, beginning alongside the river, and then going cross-country through a poop-riddled meadow to a higher trail, then working our way back to town from there. One minute we were sweating and peeling off our coats; the next minute we were cold, this section took us 1:40 (entire loop was 7 miles). It was a beautiful sunny Sunday; lots of people were out enjoying the day. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a98d6c2716.jpg Return walk to Poschiavo Back in town we sought out the Ossario e Chiesa di Sant'Anna to look at the skulls, and enjoyed one final wander through Poschiavo. https://www.valposchiavo.ch/it/event...0Sant'Anna https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fe79842fc6.jpg Ossario e Chiesa di Sant'Anna https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...825f2907fd.jpg Ossario e Chiesa di Sant'Anna https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8929fda9ad.jpg Ossario e Chiesa di Sant'Anna https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ba4bdf1514.jpg A final wander through Poschiavo https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...99935de304.jpg A final wander through Poschiavo https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ca9fd3acf9.jpg A final wander through Poschiavo https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3e993776c5.jpg A final wander through Poschiavo Then it was back to the apartment for one last cheese fest and to prepare for departure tomorrow. Winding down… |
Dec 30 -
It was time to leave beautiful Poschiavo. Before the trip, we’d purchased a Saver Day Pass for our long travel day from Poschiavo to Kloten (Zurich), 44 chf each, half fare. I’d originally wanted to detour to Bilten to stock up on Läderach chocolate to take home, but we’d decided the travel day was already long enough and the suitcases plenty full. We were a bit concerned about how busy the train from Poschiavo to St Mortiz might be considering the popularity of the route, and our experience two days prior. We’d planned to take the 8:47 am train, but got to the station in time to take the 8:28, which looked plenty busy, making us think the later train might be even busier. We sat on a bench seat in the bike car with several skiers on their way to the various slopes. Soon we were headed back up to Alp Grum and then on to Ospizio Bernina, the highest point of the Bernina Pass at an elevation of 2,253 meters above sea level. We’d been up here before, but I’d forgotten how gorgeous it is. The Ospizio Bernina rail station lies on the shores of Lago Bianco, between the Engadine and the valley of Poschiavo. Today the lake was a shimmering blue beneath a thin layer of ice; we’ve never hiked up here, but must rectify that…next time. https://www.graubuenden.ch/en/tours/lago-bianco We continued down to St Mortiz, surprised to see considerably more snow on this side of the pass. Our train to Landquart was already there, so we waited onboard until our 10:53 departure, Bill making a quick run to the station kiosk to pick up a beer. The journey took us through some of our favorite bits of the Engadine, noticing as we passed through Zuoz that the village was still in the shade at 11:10, the sun had not crested the mountains yet. We also went through the 19 km Vereina tunnel, the longest tunnel on the Rhaetian Railway. Bill commented on how nice it was to be back on trains that actually had destination displays onboard. Less than two hours later we were in Landquart, where we changed to the ICE 70 which was headed to Hamburg via Zurich. The SBB app had advised the train was at Level 1 occupancy. There was a mad rush from a late incoming train to board the ICE 70 and we worried the train would be busy based on the number of people and amount of luggage on the platform, but it was a non-issue. It was a foggy ride to Zurich Hauptbahnhof, where we arrived six hours after leaving Poschiavo. We located a train to Kloten, some 10 km from Zurich and the nearest village to the airport, where we arrived around 2:45 pm. We then walked to our accommodation for the night, the Allegra Lodge. Nice place this. We’ve stayed here before, but don’t remember the room being quite so big. We were hoping for dinner at the Indian restaurant we ate at last year, but a quick online search told us it was closed on Monday. So, I searched “Indian food near me”, and found another place nearby…in an apartment building. Huh. Even though Google Maps indicated it was open, we were prepared to be disappointed at this in-between hour; but not only did we find the place, it was open, albeit deserted. As advertised, the restaurant was attached to an apartment building, encased in a plastic shell. It was pretty basic, with plastic covered tables and plastic chairs. There was no menu, just a choice of chicken (17 chf) or veg (14 chf) thalis. And so, our trip ended as it began, with surprisingly good Indian thalis and mediocre wine at a completely random establishment (37 chf). Afterwards we went to the nearby Aldi and Spar to pick up a few last minute items to take home, then returned to the hotel to sort out tomorrow’s bus schedule and re-pack. Our trip was drawing to a close… |
Dec 31 -
We were up early. Our hotel booking included breakfast for one, so Bill went down to check it out; I chose to wait for the Swiss Lounge. We were checked out and waiting at the bus stop in plenty of time to catch the 7:19 am bus to the airport, 2.40 chf each half fare. There was no line at the United check in counter; we were through security and immigration by just after 8 am. Our bags had gained a little weight, but we were still well below UA’s 70-lb limit for Star Alliance Gold members, 19.2 and 18.6 kg. We spent a few hours in the Swiss Lounge, and then eventually boarded our flight to Washington…where the fun really began. The flight itself was fine, but I’d soon discover that something they fed us - I suspect the unappetizing cheese pizza roll-up thingie - would come back to haunt me, in a very big way. After transferring our luggage in Washington (Dulles), we went directly to our gate only to find that our boarding was delayed due to a rain related leak between the airplane door and the jet bridge. We finally boarded, then once on the plane we were grounded until a thunderstorm passed; there was lightening in the area, and workers on the tarmac had taken cover until it was safe to resume loading luggage onto the plane. We anxiously sat onboard, worried we’d miss our connection in Denver. As I mentioned earlier, after booking this particular flight, UA had made a time and plane change and had given us the opportunity to make a change. Unable to find a better option (and avoid the 777), Bill upgraded us to First Class instead; thank you Bill. At this point I was feeling queasy and was clutching a barf bag. I asked the flight attendant to change my drink order from a G&T to a gingerale. We finally took off. They brought food, the smell of which sent me over the edge. Suffice to say, it was a miserable 3.5 hour flight. Never have I been so thankful to be so close to the loo. We eventually arrived in Denver, me still green around the gills. We ran to make our connection to COS, only to be delayed again as they needed to de-ice the plane; our plane was last in line. We finally arrived in COS, where I made a beeline to the loo for another round of praying to the porcelain god. I’d received a text that our Z-Trip driver would be a few minutes late, which worked out fine since we were late as well. Once in the car, I furtively clutched a plastic bag, making conversation with the driver and trying not to let on that I could blow again at any moment. Thankfully, the ride was uneventful; we arrived at a family member’s house, where we’d left our car. From there we drove some 45 minutes to our house, me utilizing the plastic bag enroute, arriving around midnight, exhausted and miserable. I contacted UA the next day, completing their online form, telling them what had happened, thinking I should notify them that I suspected their food had made me ill, just in case others had also gotten sick. I received a canned response saying something along the lines of ‘we’re sorry to hear you didn’t like your meal’. Well, okay then. Until next time… |
Final note:
I’ve just crunched the numbers to see how well we did with the 365 day Half Fare Card; we spent 140.10 chf each at half fare on train/bus/cable car transport in Switzerland over some 8 days. We paid 190 chf each for the 365 day Half Fare Card, so we’re 49.90 chf each short of breaking even. But, we plan to return to Switzerland between now and when the card expires next November, so we’ll no doubt be ahead in the long run. Thanks for tuning in. |
Originally Posted by Melnq8
(Post 17637250)
Final note:
I’ve just crunched the numbers to see how well we did with the 365 day Half Fare Card; we spent 140.10 chf each at half fare on train/bus/cable car transport in Switzerland over some 8 days. We paid 190 chf each for the 365 day Half Fare Card, so we’re 49.90 chf each short of breaking even. But, we plan to return to Switzerland between now and when the card expires next November, so we’ll no doubt be ahead in the long run. Thanks for tuning in. |
Why thank you bvlenci!
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Originally Posted by bvlenci
(Post 17637282)
I've thoroughly enjoyed this travelogue, and the beautiful photos. Thanks so much for taking the time to assemble it and post it. I hope to see another before November!
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MeInq8, I really enjoyed reading your report. The views in the Poschiavo area, hike around the lakes with that incredible beautiful color, looked great. The photos of Bormio during Christmas were so beautiful, and the “Filarmonica Bormiese” looked really special. All those yummy pies, cakes, ice cream and Italian dishes made me dream of a next trip.
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Sorry about the food poisoning on the way home. Thanks for sharing your trip with me and giving me some ideas.
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Thank you a lot Mel for writing and sharing your report and the pictures. I really enjoyed them! Well done, once more! Stay well and "see you" next time!
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Thanks again everyone, hope it helps anyone planning a similar trip.
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Melnq8, I would like to add my thanks for such a wonderful detailed report. And the lovely photos. I know how time consuming it is. Thank you for taking me somewhere I wouldn't see otherwise.
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