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Adelaidean - I'd read about the Chimney Sweep Museum, but as so often happens, my wish list exceeded our time and energy. Domodossola hasn't seen the last of us yet - I'm fascinated by the surrounding valleys, which seem to have a lot on offer, yet we're a bit flummoxed about how to reach some of them, especially via public transport in the off season (perhaps neckervd can help).
tripplanner - yes, losing a trail can sometimes be a good thing, as happened to us in Bormio. |
The weather looks divine. I can sympathise about walking through fallen leaves, I like to see where my feet are landing, and they can be slippery. Progress is so much slower if walking a bit tentatively.
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The Christmas market looks amazing. What is the 3rd photo... boxes of chocolate xmas trees?
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dreamon - the weather was a surprise, as we expected it to be colder.
yk - yes, chocolate Christmas trees - they look delicious, don't they? |
Hello Mel!
I'm following, too, as usual with interest, curiosity and pleasure. Until here very well done, nice pics and gorgeous report, thank you a lot!
P.S. "Voglia di Gelato" (not "Viglia") as the Italian for "craving for ice cream". Slurp! P.S. 2: The Comazzi bus website indicates indeed that "Tickets are sold by drivers of all business lines." under "Points of ticket sales". End. The mistery remains. Informations for subscribers - Bus lines and timetables - Autoservizi Comazzi P.S. 3: In Santa Maria Vigezzo, if you will come back in Summer (or during the next Christmas holidays), you can benefit from a gondola to climb the 1700m of the Piana di Vigezzo. La Piana di Vigezzo – Piana Di Vigezzo |
Dec 7 -
When we wandered out for coffee, we were surprised to see a market right outside our door. Unbeknownst to us at the time, the entire town had been taken over by Domodossola’s weekly market, which is held every Saturday. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4002ad3e7c.jpg Market right outside our door After good caffè lattes and croissants at Royal Bar (and a glass of red for Bill, the waitress commenting on his “Italian breakfast”, €11.50) we parted ways, Bill returning to the apartment to read and me setting out to explore the market in earnest. We had arranged a noon check-out, as our train didn’t leave until 12:45, and we were only an hour from our next stop. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...69dd913d28.jpg Happy Hour begins at 10:30! The market was similar to others we’ve seen in Italy, but I was surprised at the sheer size of it; vendors lining every street and piazza, selling anything and everything. I was offered various samples as I strolled through, but I didn’t want to be tempted to buy food since we were leaving today (later regretting that decision). I did however, pick up some nice scarves to take home as gifts, and later wished I’d picked up a few more. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...91e92ffbaf.jpg Domodossola weekly market https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b9529541ed.jpg Domodossola weekly market https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9d766ced91.jpg Domodossola weekly market https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fe24f7e148.jpg Domodossola weekly market https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2e17d5560c.jpg Domodossola weekly market https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fa8b9485c0.jpg Domodossola weekly market We allowed extra time to walk to the train station, now knowing we’d be walking upstream from the crowds that had descended on Domodossola for the market. We’d purchased our train tickets on SBB (6 chf each, half fare) for the one-hour ride to Orta San Giulio, a small village with a population of 653 - 1,161 - depending on which source you believe - and dating back to the 15th century, which lies west of Lake Maggiore. Our Trenitalia train wasn’t busy, but it was grubby - and late - which would turn out to be a theme for the rest of our stay in Italy. Our Air BNB host Nicolò met us at the Orta-Miasino train station. Not only had he offered to pick us up, he’d offered to take us to the Conad grocery store in the next town of Pettenasco, before taking us to the apartment, as the small store in Orta San Giulio was closed until December 12. We had the entire Conad to ourselves, which seemed odd on a Saturday afternoon; but not yet knowing the food situation in Orta San Giulio, we later wished we’d picked up more provisions. The apartment, which dates back to 1459, is a stone’s throw from Piazza Motta, the center of Orta San Giulio, but a 30-minute walk from the train station, which wouldn't have been fun with luggage. It was a lovely space, clean, quiet, comfortable and nicely decorated, the washer a nice bonus. We were aware of the narrow staircase between floors, and had confirmed before booking that the bathroom and the bedroom were on the same floor, but didn’t realize how close the opening of the stairway was to one side of the bed. So, we used a drying rack as a makeshift barrier, to prevent tumbles into the abyss during nocturnal visits to the loo. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6b725ccf5f.jpg Staircase in apartment Orta San Giulio is a bevy of tourist activity from March to October, but this time of year it's deader than a doornail. Unfortunately, with quiet comes closures, and we soon learned that the food situation might be more of a challenge than we’d expected, given that the closest open grocery store was a four km walk from our apartment, the train station a 30-minute uphill trudge, and the trains in and out of town were running very infrequently. As for buses, they didn’t seem to run at all; it was going to be an interesting few days. Nicolò had helpfully made a list of the few restaurants and wine bars open during our stay, indicting which days each establishment was open and their hours. He suggested we book for Monday and Tuesday nights as so little was open, and offered to make the bookings for us. He’d also left a chilled bottle of Prosecco and two wine glasses, wishing me a belated happy birthday. Wow. (I’d also gotten a birthday note from our Air BNB host in Domodossola, evidently, they pay attention to the dates on passports). Upon reviewing the list, we were surprised to learn that Orta San Giulio has two Michelin starred restaurants. Nicolò turned out to be the best Air BNB host we’ve had in our eight years of renting Air BNB properties across the world. After getting settled, we immediately set out to find some lunch as it was already after 2 pm. Not much was open, so we popped into Re di Coppe wine bar on Piazza Motta, a cozy little place with a wood burning stove. Bill tried the steak tartare (€12) and I had bruschetta (€5.50). Still hungry, we shared a not-very-good margarita pizza (€6), washed down with some lovely Nebbiolo (€51.50 total). https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c5135958eb.jpg Re di Coppe https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e3e3a7287b.jpg Re di Coppe https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ac9a68f2a7.jpg Steak tartare, Re di Coppe Nicolò had mentioned how busy Orta San Giulio was in season, and had told us every parking spot was full in summer. I was curious where everyone parked in this tiny village. We later stumbled upon several parking lots above the village, and learned there are some 2,000 parking bays. Fed, we then set out to explore Orta San Giulio, which is described as “one of the top destinations for tourists visiting the Verbano Cusio Ossola province”….the village is a maze of picturesque streets and narrow cobbled lanes, flanked by old stone walls with doorways topped with triangular architraves". True that. We poked through the main center of town - Piazza Motta - took in the views of the lake and the Island of San Giulio, situated some 400 meters from the lakefront and home to a Romanesque basilica, the bishop’s palace and the Benedictine abbey. The village was almost deserted and incredibly sleepy; it began to get dark at 4 pm. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d816fdb7ef.jpg Piazza Motta https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...45aa6d5d7c.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3930bb4534.jpg Piazza Motta https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...baa2eb24b8.jpg Orta San Giulio https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...eb10f10589.jpg Orta San Giulio To be continued... |
Finsteraarhorn - good to see you here! So, evidently the bus ticket supplement is unavoidable? Good to hear, as we thought we were missing something. Thank you for the info on the gondola, I'm not sure why, but we've had a bit of trouble finding information on the area and have been a bit baffled about the logistics. Perhaps I will check in with you beforehand next time.
We definitely will be back to Domodossola - I'm really intrigued by the surrounding valleys, as there seems so much more to see. I feel that we've barely scratched the surface of this area in our two visits. Next time we will need to spend a week or more. |
Nevertheless, It still stinks that the only ticket source has to charge a supplement, I would look closer to that, but, for 4 € more, not that long.
The Domodossola market is very well known in a wider region, reaching even Bern, as advertised by the BLS Swiss train company: Domodossola-Hit - Excursions by train The valleys around Domodossola are still quite rural and the mountain flanks really steep, a bit like in the Ticino neighborough of Valle Maggia, Centovalli etc. I know better the Swiss side, but if I can help you, I will be glad to. As you already well know, compared to Switzerland, public transportation is a bit less developed in Italian peripheral regions. Next time you can also consider, from Domodossola, a daytrip to the Simplon pass area by Swiss Postbus: Simplon Pass route 631 It's not a recent experience, but we had a good one (maybe a bit upscale but if you are used to Swiss prices...) at the Ristorante e Salumi del Divin Porcello Orta San Giulio: one of the two starred Michelin restaurants is the very famous 3-Stars "Villa Crespi", ran by Italian Chef-Legend (and present like parsil in TV-programs like Masterchef and others) Antonino Cannavacciuolo Villa Crespi restaurant |
Next time you can also consider, from Domodossola, a daytrip to the Simplon pass area by Swiss Postbus: Simplon Pass route 631
We tried to do that on our last trip, but ran into some issues with bus schedules. Will revisit next time. Yes, Villa Crespi is mentioned in my next installment. Have you dined there? |
Dec 8 - Second Sunday of Advent
We’d slept great, it was very quiet, and we’d survived our first night with the narrow staircase. We went out looking for coffee and breakfast around 9:00 am. We popped into an open hotel, but they were only serving guests; after considerable wandering we found only one other place open - Piccolo Bar, where menu options were very slim. We both ordered caffè macchiatos (€3 each), toast with cheese for me (€3), and focaccia with cheese for Bill (€5). Both were tasteless; I was surprised my cheese toast came with ham, which unfortunately didn’t add any value; our breakfast was promptly abandoned, but the coffee was pretty good. We then set out to explore the village, stumbling upon a place that hadn’t been open when we walked by earlier - Bar Idea Dolce, a tiny establishment with only three tables, plus a spacious outdoor area. It was just opening, so we popped in for croissants, just happy to find another open business. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...723b7b9e62.jpg Wandering https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5afaeafb32.jpg Wandering https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6f75f69c82.jpg Wandering https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f6af754753.jpg Ceiling of Bar Idea Dolce The owner told us she would be open tomorrow from about 10-11 am, then would be closed for the rest of the week. All three tables were occupied when we left, and several people popped in for a quick espresso at the counter; the owner trying to keep track of customers, her dog, her daughter, and a grandkid. Afterwards, we looked for the starting point of a walk around the peninsula we’d run across. The narrow path began along the waterfront; we encountered quite a few people walking in the opposite direction, towards Orta San Giulio. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...953f2a6cb3.jpg Walking around the peninsula https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...65064b472b.jpg Walking around the peninsula https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...171b4ab1ec.jpg Walking around the peninsula https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d86fd2ceb3.jpg Walking around the peninsula https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e3e05494d0.jpg Peninsula map The walk took us by Villa Crespi, home to a five-star hotel and three-star Michelin restaurant that Nicolò had pointed out to us from the car yesterday. It’s impossible to miss this imposing building with its Middle Eastern inspired architecture and minaret. Bill wandered into the parking lot to get a closer look at the building, but was deterred by a doorman who came out and looked like he might chase away us riff-raff. Out of curiosity we later looked up the restaurant online, which offers €280-€300 per person tasting menus. Thanks, but no. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4a694d8c3c.jpg Villa Crespi We continued our 90 minute meander, eventually ending up back in Orta San Giulio at the opposite end of the village from where we’d started. An enjoyable walk that gave us a better feel for the area. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1c87a77884.jpg Walking around the peninsula https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...97e11a6f8b.jpg Walking around the peninsula https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...eecbd50477.jpg Island of San Giulio https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8f402ec299.jpg Piazza Motta We then sought out The Palace, a place I’d run across during my research, which had been described as “a hidden gem” and “a great little coffee shop with mouthwatering cakes and tarts”. It sounded like my kind of place. Not only did we find it, but it was open! We popped in for a beverage and a pear/custard pastry that Bill had spied in the display case. I selected three mini pastries (€19). A waiter in tails brought our orders and presented us each with a complimentary shot of hazelnut liquor, a small glass of water, three cookies, a bowl of snacks, and a croissant with tomato and cheese. I thought they'd made a mistake, but no, this is evidently business as usual at The Palace. Wow. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fbc24b79dc.jpg The Palace https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0dd9a83b63.jpg The Palace https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3d6c925073.jpg The Palace https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...419990dab0.jpg The Palace https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5117916271.jpg The Palace https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f68775cbc1.jpg The Palace We asked if they’d be open the next day (Monday) and were told yes. We then asked if they’d have that lovely pear/custard pastry, and if not, we’d take a couple now to save for breakfast. We were told they’re best when fresh and were asked how many we wanted for tomorrow. The guy then spoke to the kitchen staff and told us he’d have two of them for us tomorrow when they opened at 10 am. Excellent, Monday breakfast solved. We had a nice chat with one of the workers, who told us Orta San Giulio is crazy busy in the summer, and “not fun for anyone”; he said we were smart to come when we did. The Palace would close this week and not open until before Christmas, and then close for several months. So far, Orta San Giulio was reminding me of Spain, where one can wander through various streets/alleyways not realizing that there are businesses behind all those unmarked closed doors and gates. Then, later, those same streets/alleyways looked entirely different, as those doors and gates were now open, and the businesses had come to life. Later we returned to Re di Coppe for wine and an early light dinner; the place was heaving at 4:30 pm, no room inside. So, we wandered a bit looking for alternatives, but the few places open this time of year didn’t open until 6:30 pm, and some weren’t particularly welcoming, such as one place that had signs plastered on every surface that read “no pizza”, “no panini”, “no pasta”, “no splitting of checks”, “no sandwiches”, “no service”. Quite confusing, so we gave them “no business”. On our second pass, we found a free table at Re di Coppe. Bill chose the steak tartare again (€12). My first choice of burrata Pomodoro was sold out, so I chose the melted cheese with grilled veg from their rather limited menu (€10). Bill’s was good, mine not-so-much, but no complaints about the Nebbiolo (€35). Our first day in Lake Orta San Giulio certainly wasn't full of culinary highlights, but we didn't go hungry and The Palace was a real find. To be continued... |
Melnq8, your TR is truly fascinating; most of these places I've never heard of and probably won't get around to visit, so it's lovely to live vicariously through you and Bill. What is on that tree with orange things haning from the bare branches? About those chocolate trees, how big are they? I would have bought a few lol. Final question, for your train ticket to Orta San Giulio, aren't you entirely in Italy? How come you can buy the tickets on SBB and using your half fare card? Just curious!
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yk - that's a good question, I'm not sure what the orange fruit is, we couldn't get close enough to inspect it. I seem to remember the chocolate trees being about a foot high, but can't swear to it.
Yes, we were entirely in Italy, but SBB sells some tickets to/from towns that border Switzerland. We chose SBB as we have the app and we're very familiar with using it, but in this particular case SBB took payment and then defaulted to Trenord or Trenitalia, where we had to download the tickets, so probably wouldn't do that again. The fare we paid was not at half fare, but just the standard rate (my mistake). |
I haven't dined at Villa Crespi (yet?), but I eat Kaki, the orange fruit harvested late Autumn/early Winter you have seen and questioned above. It's fairly common throughout Italy. Possibly The Palace would have done a delicious "mousse" with them. Diospyros kaki - Wikipedia
What's next? A trip to the Island? |
Oh, I thought the fruit was persimmon, lol.
Orta San Giulio was heaving when we visited, it really looks serenely peaceful in those photos, I’d love to walk around the lake in that weather. editted..to add, I just looked it up kaki = Persimmon 😂 |
Mel, I see Bill is a fan of steak tartare - my youngest ordered it while in Paris last year, expecting a juicy succulent steak with tartare sauce, getting a plate of raw meat with a raw egg yolk on top,
he was gagging 🫣 |
Persimmon! Mystery solved. Thanks for that Finsteraarhorn.
Adelaidean - Bill's family was brought up on steak tartare (minus the raw egg). We occasionally serve it here, when we have his sisters up for games night. I think it's disgusting, but I eat very little meat anyway, cooked or otherwise. He ordered it once in Switzerland, and the manager came out to make sure he knew he'd ordered raw meat, which we thought was funny, so evidently your youngest isn't the only one:-o What's next? A trip to the Island? How did you guess, lol? |
Originally Posted by Melnq8
(Post 17632558)
yk - that's a good question, I'm not sure what the orange fruit is, we couldn't get close enough to inspect it. I seem to remember the chocolate trees being about a foot high, but can't swear to it.
Yes, we were entirely in Italy, but SBB sells some tickets to/from towns that border Switzerland. We chose SBB as we have the app and we're very familiar with using it, but in this particular case SBB took payment and then defaulted to Trenord or Trenitalia, where we had to download the tickets, so probably wouldn't do that again. The fare we paid was not at half fare, but just the standard rate (my mistake). |
I see Finsteraarhorn spells cachi differently from us. Is that a German spelling? K is not a letter in the Italian alphabet, although it's used in foreign words.
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Originally Posted by bvlenci
(Post 17632724)
I see Finsteraarhorn spells cachi differently from us. Is that a German spelling? K is not a letter in the Italian alphabet, although it's used in foreign words.
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Here in the U.S., I only find persimmons at the regular supermarkets once in a while. It's largely available at Asian supermarkets, both fresh and dried.
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