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Old Feb 19th, 2009, 04:59 PM
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A few questions from a first time visitor to Paris

Hello all!

I´m planning my first trip to Paris and will be grateful for your input on the following:

When´s the best time to go in May (early, mid, late) and how´s the weather? What are the chances of rain?

How are the crowds in May?

I´m looking at a hotel in Rue Cler, in the 7th arrondissement. Is this a good location?

How complicated is the Metro vis-a-vis the NYC subway? Is it true that I need to put my picture on the Carte Orange?

What´s the best map and guide book?

Just so I don´t get sticker shock, how much should I expect to pay for a fruit tart from a good patisserie and a baguette from a good boulangerie?

I only speak very basic French. Will I have a hard time there?

Any tips, must-sees, things to avoid, etc, will be greatly appreciated.
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Old Feb 19th, 2009, 05:29 PM
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When´s the best time to go in May (early, mid, late) and how´s the weather? What are the chances of rain?
- I'm sure the weather can vary from cool to very warm, and it's always advised to pack a light rain coat or at least an umbrella. You can temperature averages on most any weather website (weather.com, etc)
- there are several public / religious holidays in May so museums will often be closed, and maybe some stores, on those days. There are always plenty of other things to do, however.

How are the crowds in May?
- I've only been once in early May but could feel that it was more crowded than when we usually go (March/April or Sept/Oct). But it won't be nearly as crowded as are June and July!

I´m looking at a hotel in Rue Cler, in the 7th arrondissement. Is this a good location?
- a lot of people like the 7th, nothing really wrong with it... but I don't think it's as 'near' to the most sights as perhaps some other locations. Do realize, though, that you will most likely use some metro or buses no matter where you stay, so don't worry about it too much. There are quite a few good restaurants in the 7th.

How complicated is the Metro vis-a-vis the NYC subway? Is it true that I need to put my picture on the Carte Orange?
- I'm sure if you can manage the NYC subway, the Metro will be a piece of cake. Basically, each line is signed by the 'end points' (direction), and the maps show white circles or ovals wherever it is possible to change lines while still in the system (correspondance). Once you map it out a couple times, you will 'get' it.

What´s the best map and guide book?
- I personally use a map-booklet that I bought at a Paris newstand b/c it has a good bus map by arrondissement. Some people like a large folding map b/c they can see better where they are in relation to the whole city. Many, many first-timers are happy with the Street Wise folding maps, or the booklet by Middleditch.
- You can get very detailed guidebooks like Knopf with beautiful illustrations, but those books are quite heavy. If you want something from more of an overview, just find a 'Top 25' type of book. Browse the Fodors books - on Amazon.com, you can often see sample pages (usually older editions).

Just so I don´t get sticker shock, how much should I expect to pay for a fruit tart from a good patisserie and a baguette from a good boulangerie?
- shoot, who knows, just buy and EAT. I'm thinking 2-3€ for a tarte at most, and maybe 3-4€ for a baguette...

I only speak very basic French. Will I have a hard time there?
- if you always open your conversations with "Bonjour, Madame (Monsieur), parlez-vous anglais, s'il vous plait?" and always say "merci" and those polite kinds of phrases, you'll enjoy yourself and get a warmer reception. Mostly, just be polite, and keep a sense of humor, and know that sometimes you can 'misinterpret' something that is really only a cultural difference.
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Old Feb 19th, 2009, 05:45 PM
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Travelnut- Thank you so much for such a detailed reply!

I was also considering going in April, but decided against it because rain is almost guaranteed, according to my research. Has that been your experience?

Which arrondissement(s) do you recommend?

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Old Feb 19th, 2009, 06:10 PM
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I went in May and really liked the fact that it stayed light until after 9pm.

As for French, I listened to cd's and studied the BBC language program. As soon as I opened my mouth with "bonjour Madame/Monsieur" thinking I sounded like the cd's-the proprietors almost always switched to English. I suspect they didn't want me butchering their language. In think English is less common outside of Paris so I'd learn a few words, especially the greetings and use them. I'm a picky eater and don't eat innards so I tried to study food terms in order to avoid surprises.

Have fun!
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Old Feb 19th, 2009, 06:19 PM
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Early or late May - take your pick, there are no predictable patterns, I went in the last week of May and it was chilly and windy and rained a bit (not unusual, Paris gets rain all year round), and I went late April into the first days of May and it was more like early summer. Just go and have a second layer to wear beneath the rain coat in case you’ll need it, then take it as it comes.

Crowds - not bad, it’s a busy city and rush hour is crowded on public transport (and pickpockets are having a field day), and the prime targets are always busy so get early to places like the Beaubourg (Pompidou Center) and the Orsay and stand in line, that’s normal.

7th arr. is ok, people who believe every word Rick Steves says swear by that location (and he’s not often wrong), but there are plenty others just fine, it doesn’t make that much of a difference, you’ll be out and about most of the time, and a street or intersection with lots of restaurants and shops is never far away.

Métro works fine as long as you don’t expect a grid with straight lines (not like Manhattan with its uptown-downtown-crosstown scheme), and get it into your head that you need to know the name of the last stop to know which way to take a line - get ready to study in depth this website and it will pay off handsomely, it can give you customized step-by-step itineraries, even for pedestrian journeys, and detailed maps and much more: www.ratp.fr.

Consider taking the bus more often than the métro - you see more, they run often - just learn your way around ratp and you’ll see.

In most any boulangerie and from stands on the sidewalks etc. you can buy panini (sandwiches made with the “baguette” bread) for 3 to 6 Euros approx., depending on the filling, and for about 4 Euros the boulangeries have luscious little quiches, then there are the crêpes that can cost anywhere from 2 to 6 Euros depending on filling and also on location, of course.

There are also lots of food places where you might sit at a plastic table and eat in, but they are mostly take-out places of all kinds of national origins, like Lebanese or Turkish kebab places, where you can load up and not break the bank.

Sit-down restaurants with table cloths etc. will cost at least 15 Euros for the prix fixe (a set menu) or the plat du jour or assiette du jour (“dish of the day”) special. Tipping is not customary - leaving a tad of change in coins is, but not 15 or 20 percent, not even close - beyond that the prices are all-inclusive when the bill comes.

Where there is a counter and table seating, prices at the counter (usually standing up) are cheaper. If there is outdoor seating, that will be more expensive again - do not order cheaply at the counter then go sit down, or you’ll get a language lesson at elevated volume...

Take along a couple of passport photos in case you do get a pass that requires it - no big deal if you have them with you. Or just buy your métro tickets with the discount you get for buying a bundle of ten, which is called a “carnet” (pron. car-nay).

Take along a compass - when you come up and out of the Métro and it is overcast or after dark you have no idea which way things are - a compass immediately helps you get your bearings in places where there are no right angles to the intersections (which is just about most intersections).

Say Bonjour or - after about 4PM - Bonsoir every time to anybody you encounter, be it for a fleeting moment at a newsstand or just buying a ticket somewhere, or when entering a shop and making eye contact (even if you don’t want to be waited on in person) - it is absolutely mandatory politeness to start the encounter with Bonjour or Bonsoir.

On leaving, Au’Revoir (slightly abbreviated as Aur’voir - you’ll soon hear it) is also the way to do it. Other than that, most people with whom you come into contact as a tourist will speak some English. Others will not, c’est la vie, you’re on their turf, so deal with it graciously. A small booklet with a dictionary or phrasebook will help.

Don’t expect smiles as a matter of politeness, the French wonder why Americans always smile, they wonder what’s so funny that gives rise to a smile... To a French person, being polite means being brief and to the point and not wasting the other’s time, so if that seems a bit brusque to you, take it instead as being a sign of respect and politeness.

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Old Feb 19th, 2009, 06:56 PM
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His Holiness the Dalai Lama is right on the money with the recs. Particularly with regard to politeness in France. It is quite possible that you'll encounter a rude person or two in Paris. But what most people interpret as rude regarding the French is what I consider to be their cultural desire to be polite. For example you are not approached in shops because it is intrusive. Knowing even a bit of French will take you far and don't be surprised if they have a little fun with you while you try. For example I was askded by a guard in the Louvre once if I spoke French. I said "Not really" He countered with "No, no, no do you know how to order wine?" I said "Yes". He responded, "Then that is all the French you need to know!"

I like staying in the 7th probably now because it feels like a second home to me. It's not for everyone. I like it because it is away from the big crowds and I enjoy the Rue Cler area for cafes at night. If you stay in this area, do go to Sancerre. A wonderful wine bar (they only servce Sancerre!) on Avenue Rapp. Don't miss the building across the street; it is an amazing example of Art Neauveau architecture. Also eveyone says Laudree macarons are the best, but I really like the Macarons at Lenotre which is literally at the metro stop for Ecole Militaire, the Rue Cler stop. If you like wine but don't know what to order, every waiter in every cafe can help you make the right choice. And they will help you because it's the right wine, not because it is the most expensive. Let the staff guide you with wine. It will always be the right choice and you'll learn and try wines you didn't know about.

The metro is easy. Personally I think it's easier than NYC though they are both pretty simple systems to master. If you're there a week get a Carte Orange and bring a passport picture with you to buy one. Or buy metro tickets in Carnets of 10. The tickets work on the bus as well. And I second taking the bus too. Especially the #69. If you want a cheap overview of the major sights of Paris, the 69 is the way to go.

Enjoy my favorite city. I can't wait for April when I return myself!
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Old Feb 19th, 2009, 07:04 PM
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bluzmama and DalaiLlama- I´m very appreciative of your replies. Thank you so much!
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Old Feb 19th, 2009, 07:09 PM
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chevre- Thank you very much for replying!
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Old Feb 19th, 2009, 07:46 PM
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I would like to ask how much more expensive it is to eat outside at a cafe than inside?

Thank you
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Old Feb 19th, 2009, 08:00 PM
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Could be something like 4 Euros for a drink at the counter, five or six at an indoor table, or eight or nine outside. It varies of course, but it can add up. Every place has a poster displayed somewhere on a wall with their prices - three columns, something like comptoir-salle-terrasse (counter-inside room-patio). It may not be hanging in a convenient place, the law requires it, but nobody goes to look it up.

If you're on a budget, buy at a store and become a regular guest at a Café de Parkbench - cracking open a bottle in a public place is not against the law (you're not in Kansas any more...).
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Old Feb 20th, 2009, 02:54 AM
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I go to Paris often..last year in April and a month in Sept./Oct. and 12 days in Dec. I will be ther for a month mid April to mid May.

Weather..hopefully an early Spring. Flowers should be in full bloom while I am there. Expect some showers..always take umbrella and layered clothing is best.

For me, after all my years of trip sto Paris, I find my definite preference is the 7th..specifically the Bourdonnais/Rapp/St. Dominique area.To be sure, Rick Steves has nothing to do with it! So very village like atmosphere. Wonderful access to the excellent shopping on Ave. Montaigne/George V, walk to Rodin, Invalides, d'Orsay, jump on the multitude of buses and be anyplace in Paris. Metro for those who want to use it. A great convenient area to stay in. I usually put it this way:Most visitors wonder if their location is central enough, but the beauty of Paris is that each arrondissement is its own special neighborhood. I prefer the ones that have kept their village-like feel but are close to everything I enjoy: walking distance to world-class shopping, museums, landmarks, affordable café’s and restaurants, to the Seine. But everyone has their own preferences.

The Navigo Decouverte may not be your most convenient for your short period.. Need a 1 1/2" sq. photograph, load it for weekly use Mon - Sun. You can also buy a carnet of 10 tickets..use bus and metro.

Wonderful restaurants in 7th..On r. Dominique you have the 4 Christian Constant's. Cafe Constant, Les Cocottes, Violon d'Ingres and Fables de la Fontaine..all price ranges..very good bargains.

Just learn the custom re salutations et. you will get by well.

For me, I now always stay in the www.parisperfect.com apartments. They are lovely, have every possible amenity and are definitely for me. They do have some great specials going on their website now and those not on special will have a 15% discount by just asking.

The l'Indispensable Le Petit Parisien 3 plans par arrondissement is a great book to carry at all times..bus/metro/maps of all arrondissements. Michelin Green Guide is always good.

Enjoy your planning..half the fun!

a bientot..
Joan
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Old Feb 20th, 2009, 04:08 AM
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<<maybe 3-4€ for a baguette...>>

Did you mean a sandwich? The baguette itself must be far less.
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Old Feb 20th, 2009, 04:44 AM
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Lots of good advice above. The French believe in courtesy as said above so when you go into a small shop it is normal to say hello (as described) and you are actually greeting the other customers as well as the staff.

Because this is a capital city then every one is a bit briefer and hurried but they try to remember their manners and so should you. So when ordering things you are are not trying for the "I want or could I get" which seems more common usage it would would be better to ask" I would like a beer etc".

My French s fine but my Italian is dreadful and to help me I carry a pair of glasses which I fidle with. When ordering it allows me to look over my nose or even take them off as I try to interpret what I am being asked. For harried waiters it is a bit of a pain but they remember that teachers used to do it so they slow down to hear what you are going to say.

Metro easy, note that all the locals know where they are going so try to step out of the way as they surge by. Obviously pick pockets are a problem but gropers less so than some cities. Watch out for singing bums who want money or people who want to explain to the whole carriage that they were made redundant "crown jewel maker or Lyon fishermen etc"
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Old Feb 20th, 2009, 05:04 AM
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Hi SN,

Very good advice above.

A: Wear layers, bring an umbrella

B: About the same as they are any other time of year.

C: Sounds as if you watch Rick Steves.
Many people like the 7th, or the 6th, or the 5th, or the 4th.
The 4th (Marais) is fairly young and hip.
The 5th (Latin Quarter) is full of student types.
The 6th ISt Germain) is fairly posh.
The 7th is much like the 6th, but quieter.

We always stay at the Hotel Bonaparte: http://www.hotelbonaparte.fr/

D: The Metro is not at all complicated: You buys your ticket at the machine or the counter, sticks it in the turnstile and takes it out.

There is a discount if you buy a "carnet" of 10 tickets. Also for a day pass.

D1: Don;t know. We never use more than one carnet per person per week.
Paris is a great walking town.

E. I hear that Fodors has a good guide to Paris.
See "Destinations"

I use the Streetwise Paris map. It has a map of the metro and shows the taxi stands.

Also: 100 Great Things to Do in Paris
http://fodors.com/forums/threadselec...=2&tid=1277898

Degas’s Paris Walks
http://fodors.com/forums/threadselec...2&tid=34712768

Kerouac’s Ethnic Walk
http://fodors.com/forums/threadselec...2&tid=35095155

F: There are no bad patisseries or boulangeries in Paris.
A croissant will be between 1 and 3E.

G: See advice re politeness.
.................................................. .................................................. .....
Hi Jets,

>I would like to ask how much more expensive it is to eat outside at a cafe than inside?<

Prices are posted, either just outside or just inside the door. Expect to pay double for a cuppa sitting outside - that would be an extra Euro or so.

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Old Feb 20th, 2009, 11:55 AM
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Lots of times, it's the exact same price to eat outside as inside, there isn't any rule. The more likely charge difference which I think you do find at every "cafe" is a difference between standing at the counter and sitting. Some places may charge extra for sitting on the "terrace" but none of the places I frequent do, if you eat dinner, it's the same price outside or inside (or a sandwich, etc.). Lots of times I prefer inside, after all, if the weather is bad or cold.

I thnk baguettes are price controlled, they don't cost as much as 3-4 euro. They are real cheap, but most people wouldn't have a reason to buy an entire baguette unless they had an apt. , but maybe if you wanted to share with a couple people. I think they are only around 1.2 euro now. In any case, tartes or pastries, etc. will cost more than that. Even a croissant costs almost as much as a plain baguette (and almond ones often cost more).
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Old Feb 20th, 2009, 05:27 PM
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Everybody who posted before me is right about all of that other stuff.

I share Gracejoan's love of the 7th.

Weather varies. I have been in June and sweltered. Was in Paris in August of the following year and it was twenty degrees cooler and rainy. Last summer I was there for two weeks at the end of June and had no rain at all (I mean NO rain at all).

Paris is fab whatever the weather. A surprise, a discovery, a treasure around every corner. Explore and enjoy.
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Old Feb 20th, 2009, 05:56 PM
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We have been in March, June and September and June was best weather overall. So May should be pretty good not to mention new blossoms.

You will have no trouble with the metro. It is tres easy! Your basic French might be too slow for very busy waiters but do try-I think the French really appreciate it. And yes, as other poster mentioned, say 'bonjour' first when you encounter someone in a store or restaurant.

Rue Cler is great fun! You will have a great time.
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Old Feb 20th, 2009, 09:49 PM
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We encountered a girl who picked up a gold ring and tried to tell us we dropped it. Having read about that scam here, we just ignored her. This was near the Orsay. My friend also saw someone at Sacre Coeur and I've heard they try it at the Eiffel Tower.



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