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A few Lisbon days plus handicap transport taxi

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A few Lisbon days plus handicap transport taxi

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Old Jun 12th, 2012, 08:25 AM
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A few Lisbon days plus handicap transport taxi

We just got back from 4 nights in Lisbon. What impressed us most when we got off our flight was the fantastically cool weather.
After leaving a sweltering 35º in Valencia, and hearing two days later the thermometers had risen to 42º, we enjoyed soaking up the fresh breeze that blew into the city at all hours of the day.

If this city gets this breeze in the summer, this is paradise!

We stayed at the Real Palacio Hotel due to a special on Travelzoo. It boasts a 5 star category but only the nice staff could be awarded those ratings. The room was very spacious as well as was the new marble bathroom. The amenities were good quality . There is a small spa in the basement with Turkish bath and sauna and jacuzzi which was included in our price. But it is lacking the level of bedding and furnishings of the 5*s I have enjoyed although it was TOTALLY acceptable. The furnishings and bedding were more "normal".. nothing special although the hazelnut chocolate that was on our pillow the first two nights ( not sure why we didn't get one every night) were welcomed.

I would not hesitate to return to this hotel if I got a great deal again. There are several pleasant places to sit and enjoy the free wifi. The breakfast was correct and the spa circuit hit the spot our first touring day.

We arrived around 7:30 pm, got settled and went off to Sr. Vnho to have dinner and hear Fado. I had wanted a less "taverny" feeling place our first night. Sr. Vinho had several singers and guitar players who would do a small act, then you would eat for 15minutes and another singer would come out.

We thought the quality was excellent and it was interesting to listen to the different types of each singer. It was a special evening and we have fond memories. Our son joined us for dinner and he also enjoyed the evening. The singers and guitarists were very professional. It is important to note though, that if you want to chat, or think you cannot control your desire to chat, you do NOT go to listen to Fado. They are very serious about their performance. It is not "background music".

The meals here are pricey to say the least, plus there is a 12.50E cover charge that includes some snacks, so it is an expensive night out. We are happy to have gone. Not having anything to compare to, next time we will go try somewhere else of the many that were recommended to us to get a good feel fro the different venues. I would have liked to have gone again somewhere but it didn't seem to appeal to our group to do so.

The next day we took a taxi up to the Palacio dos Marqueses do Fronteira. This is a compulsory visit IMO. Thank you to Valtor and others for recommending it.

It is the only palatial home left in Lisbon in its original state. There was an event being set up so we were unable to visit the interior but the gardens were spectacular and we could only imagine how lovely the inside was. We browsed through some books in the gift shop to get an idea what we were missing. We definitely will have to go back here at some point. Be sure to call ahead of time to make sure the entire palace is open. We knew ahead of time that we could not see the interior but we didn't mind since this building was so high on our list to see.

We had reservations at 2 pm to Assinatura and had a delicious meal here. I had searched on Fodors and Chowhound and The Guardian for restaurant recs. I wish we had had more time as so many sounded good that I was sorry not to have been able to try more of them.

We had their executive menu of the day of three plates for 24E plus drinks. It was innovative Mediterranean food. Unfortunately I did not take notes but some had cream soup made of zucchini flower which was fantastic. The others had a clam dish with tasty vegetables. For second plate I had meat skewer that had been marinated. The rice side dish was the tastiest combination of a rice side dish I had had in a long time. I usually don't like side dishes of rice but whatever spices or /and herbs were used were an excellent combination. The cod and also the pork received compliments from my friends.

Dessert was a special cake and cream created for the national holiday. Wine here, as we found everywhere, were excellent quality and value, never spending more than 15E/bottle.

http://www.assinatura.com.pt/

We later took a taxi to the Gulbenkian Museum that was within walking distance of our hotel. What an architectural gem, and what a collection. Mr. Gulbenkian could be compared to Guggenheim or Rockefeller, I imagine. He was a true innovative investor and actually organized much of the oil business and contract in the Middle East.

He collected very interesting pieces from all his travels and had exquisite taste. There are photos of his Parisian home as it was before he moved his things to Lisbon during/after the second World War. When I go to Paris I will visit his Foundation there so as to see his home in person.

The Gulbenkian Museum itself will please any architect as it is a commendable piece of museum architecture, from the interior to the landscaping. We spent more time here than I expected and can recommend this stop as a lovely respite in a sometimes exhausting touring schedule.

There is a lovely café terrace looking out over some reeds attached to the coffee shop.

We did not venture over to the Modern Art museum on the same grounds as we were ready to take a rest and get ready for a later outing.

We walked back to the hotel and passed some lovely buildings. Our hotel has a historical section you can see from one of the patios. It has a beautiful staircase and blue tiled walls. I am sure in its day this historical section is what merited its 5*. It now seems to have a modern annex where most of the rooms are. I decided to use the spa but couldn't convince anyone else to do so. Bed rest and watching the news seemed a higher priority.
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Old Jun 12th, 2012, 09:40 AM
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I'll give out the taxi number now so anyone who is needing it does not have to read all the way down to the end!

The direct number to this wheelchair ramped taxi is 967.977.722. If there is no answer, you can call the company 24 hrs. a day but ask for the ADAPTED VAN. 218 598 693

The restaurant we visited the last night was thrilled to have this number as he said there are very few in all of Lisbon. I hope this is of use to someone. We certainly got good use out of it when we were with our son and then to the airport with the extra luggage he asked us to take back home for him!
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Old Jun 12th, 2012, 10:56 AM
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So glad you enjoyed Lisbon! Pity you couldn't get into the Palacio, it really is worth seeing the inside. Good excuse to go back.
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Old Jun 12th, 2012, 12:11 PM
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Well, I want to know if you had to walk up and down all of those hills to work off the wonderful food!~
It would be nice if it wasn't so warm when we are there in August but I have been to Lisbon in August before and I don't think we will be as lucky as you!
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Old Jun 12th, 2012, 12:20 PM
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Great report! Bookmarking.
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Old Jun 12th, 2012, 03:15 PM
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Re-reading my report I see I left out something already. After lunch we decided to take a taxi to Belem and have a coffee atop the Cultural Center on its terrace overlooking the Tagus and the Monument of the Discovery.

It is exam week/month in Lisbon as every single wifi laden plaza, coffee shop and museum table were filled with students on their laptops and notebook writing away or commenting with their partner. Everyplace looked like an open library!

I had really hoped our son might be able to accompany us for a drink or snack later as he was working nearby, but that was not to be, so we visited the town "from the outside" and made the compulsory stop for the Belem pastries.

The line was at least 40 people long. But the line is ONLY for CARRY-OUT. Just go straight in one of the open doors and find a table and rest your feet. Don't be fooled buy the few tables you see in the first room. Go follow signs to the bathrooms and you will see dozens of tables to sit at if the others are full.

After this snack we walked until our friend had had enough and grabbed a taxi back to the hotel. My husband and I alighted at the Gulbenkian and our friends continued to their room.

Later that evening we met in the hotel patio and decided we weren't really HUNGRY and didn't feel like taxiing anywhere. Reluctant to subject ourselves to a lazy night in at the hotel restaurant we started walking around the next block where the receptionist had told us there was a tavern that was open.

So, our second night in Lisbon and we are already eating Basque tavern food! Actually, it was just what we needed. There were plenty of tapas across the open bar. You served yourself and then they counted the toothpicks. One long section had cold "montaditos" the other section those to be heated. The waitress would heat the tapa and bring it to the table. There was also another waitress coming to all the tables with additional tapas to offer more.

It was a lively place. There is only one Basque tavern in that neighborhood so it should not be hard to find. it was a popular place.

Suddenly two young girls came out to an area near where we were sitting, the waiters stopped serving and the spanish Sevillana music started.

These two girls danced several Sevillanas while everyone paid attention and throughly enjoyed the show. After 15 minutes or so they took a break, serving resumed until the next mini exhibit.

Lisbon. Basque tavern. Sevillanas.

Too funny. We had a great time and left after watching another fun session of these two expressive, young dancers. At one point hey took two women from the diners to accompany them and practice Sevillanas. One of those victims was so much fun to watch. We were all in stitches as she was made exaggerated faces and shrugged her shoulders recognizing her continuous dancing ineptness, but her "good sport" attitude was outstanding. We all applauded her loudly when they finished.

We enjoyed an after dinner drink on the patio at the hotel.

Saturday after breakfast we took a taxi to Algés where the Volvo Ocean Race Village was set up. We spent part of the morning and early afternoon there visiting and watching the beginning of the in- port race. On our way back to Lisbon we made a nice stop at the Tower of Belem just as the six boat fleet was passing by. It was a great viewpoint as the boats were very spread out but very near the shore/ sea wall. It was a surprise to have coincided with them just at that moment. I don't think we could have arranged it any better if we had tried.
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Old Jun 12th, 2012, 03:17 PM
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Sher. We did very little walking as our friend cannot walk long distances and I have plantar fascilitis or whatever it is called..so did not burn many calories.
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Old Jun 12th, 2012, 04:27 PM
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lincasanova - sorry to hear you have plantar xxx (can't spell it). I got that once just before a trip to Paris and it is painful. Are you doing exercises for it? That helped me.
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Old Jun 12th, 2012, 10:13 PM
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adrienne.. yes.. exercises plus rolling my foot on a frozen water bottle at the end.. going to get some gel inserts for shoes..yes, it is very painful. I hope this will also be the catalyst to finally losing the extra weight I am carrying. Fortunately taxis are so cheap in Lisbon that with four people it was not any additional expense like it would have been most other places.
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Old Jun 12th, 2012, 11:58 PM
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Lin. You mention the inexpensive taxis.
I remember the last time when we were staying in Baixa that my friend walked up to a Bariro Alto shop she wanted to visit. It was very hot that day. She was very uncomfortable.
The next day she decided that she would take a taxi no matter the cost and found out it was less than E5 to that shop.
She could not believe it.

We also sat in the rear of the shop to enjoy our Belem pastry. I think they are more expensive there and that is one reason why some take them away. I really don't think they are as good as when you eat them on the spot.
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Old Jun 13th, 2012, 12:35 AM
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This evening we went to the Michelin, Ferran Adriá, Ducasse, etc. etc trained chef José Avillez' Cantinho do Avillez.

I was not disappointed. Fortunately our hotel called an hour beforehand to change our reservation from 5 to 4. I had made it online two months earlier but they had nothing on their books in our name. We did get a table at the requested time and set off in a taxi to this lovely part of Chiado.

The restaurant is on Rua do Braganza which is a steep hill flanked by the traditional tram all the way up to the plaza. This small trendy relaxed restaurant is in a great neighborhood.

http://cantinhodoavillez.pt/

Our dinner was delicious. We had chicken livers in port marmalade ( actually repeated this tapa). A marinated scallop on guacamole. Then a salad with goat cheese, a steak, a 17 E hamburger with foie ( i think all the foie melted) and then we shared a small orange creme brulée that was perfect.

After dinner our friend went back to the hotel but three of us continued up to a place recommended by a young receptionist at our hotel off a list of lounge/drink places I showed him. For some STRANGE, inexplicable reason, of all the places on the list this young man thought we would ENJOY Taverna do Chico in Chiado for an after dinner drink. We walked and found it, wading through tons of boisterous street crowds.

I don't know where I got this recommendation, but there is no way we could have held a conversation in this small tavern.

So after meandering around and feeling 40 years out of place we headed home to enjoy our after dinner drink on our hotel patio where we could actually maintain a conversation and go over what a lovely time we were having in Lisbon.

Sunday was a repeat of Saturday at the VOR for awhile to say goodbye to the teams and watch a bit of the start on the big screen while we enjoyed a roast suckling pig sandwich from one of the food stalls.

After departing Algés we went to the National Tile Museum. Do not miss this lovely building. The tiles are exquisite but the building even more so. There is a patio and cafeteria to rest your weary feet after touring. Later a taxi and a quick stop at Castelo San Jorge and some street shopping and we were off to relax at a lovely sidewalk café terrace.

One of our son's friends had highly recommended Cervejería Ramiro so we made reservations there. I did not know it was a seafood place or I wouldn't have gone there. We were unable to even get a salad.

But what we did order was delicious: they bring out plates of buttered roasted bread with a plate of high end Spanish ham ( 12 E plus 2.5/person for the bread). We ordered one large tiger prawn each ( perhaps grilled a tad too long) and my husband and friend shared a plate of barnacles. The five of us shared two of their special steak sandwiches. No dessert. Wine, coffee for two, waters. 156E.

Our last night after dinner drink was fantastic at the Hotel Barrio Alto in the same neighborhood. The tourist office at Plaza Comercio suggested it for the view and being quiet. She was right! This is what I would have liked the night before. it was practically next to our restaurant. So if you go to the Cantinho do Avillez, remember this is just up around the corner!!

The small roof top terrace was the perfect place to finish off our stay. They are open from noon to midnight. They offer snacks and drinks. We had some dessert and drinks that hit the spot as we enjoyed the breeze, the view of the river and bridge and the company before saying our goodbyes to our son.

The next day we ordered the special taxi van as although there were only four of us, we were now carrying extra luggage for our son and it was going to be tight in a normal taxi.

All in all we had a wonderful time. Under normal circumstances we would have rented a car and gone up the coast a bit and visited Sintra with our friends who had never been there, but since we were locked into some activities two days we decided against it.

Thanks to all for your recommendations. Although we did not visit many of the restaurants you advised, I certainly will try them if I get back to Lisbon. The insistence of visiting the Palacio do Fronteira and the Tile Museum helped me prioritize our visit also. Hopefully someone can find this report useful in some way. No complaints and lots of compliments for Lisbon and her beautiful, sprawling urban landscape.
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Old Jun 13th, 2012, 12:44 AM
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Our Belem pastries were HOT when they brought them. We were trying to calculate what these guys dish out everyday.That place is a gold mine.
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Old Jun 13th, 2012, 04:54 AM
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I believe Ramiro was featured in an Anthony Boudain show on Lisbon. I think that although I like seafood I would probably not visit it.
There are so many places to eat there that are wonderful
I am going to put the Hotel Barrio Alto on a list. That I will definitely try to make.
There are a lot of noisy young people in Chiado most times!
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Old Jun 13th, 2012, 05:35 AM
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I'm just not into seafood but if you are you will enjoy it as the quality seemed good. I thought, by the name, it was a cevejerìa "tapas" type place so I was taken aback. Also, I don't always like to say no to other's suggestions. It was fine, but not where I wanted to spend our last night.

Luckily we were upstairs at a nice table for just us. Downstairs seemed like long shared tables, which for some might be fun.
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Old Jun 13th, 2012, 07:29 AM
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Thanks for your detailed report, lincasanova! I will copy and paste into my notes for our trip to Lisbon later this summer. Can't wait to be there. Glad you enjoyed your visit.

PS I have plantar fasciitis, too. If I wear Birkenstocks, though, I'm good to walk all day.
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Old Jun 13th, 2012, 07:53 AM
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Thanks, PeaceOut. Have a great trip.
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Old Jun 14th, 2012, 03:11 AM
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Beautiful report. I'm glad you enjoyed your time.
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Old Jun 14th, 2012, 03:26 AM
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Lobo_mau.. I have always wanted to meet you. I don't see you much on here anymore? Hopefully next time!
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Old Jun 14th, 2012, 04:38 AM
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Great report - we loved Lisbon!
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Old Jun 14th, 2012, 05:17 AM
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We have always had a great time in Portugal no matter how few days we have visited. Thanks, Jamikins.
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