Go Back  Fodor's Travel Talk Forums > Destinations > Europe
Reload this Page >

A Duty Nobly Done — Anselm and Margriet in Flanders and Picardy

Search

A Duty Nobly Done — Anselm and Margriet in Flanders and Picardy

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Aug 14th, 2009, 02:37 AM
  #81  
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 4,412
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
These are fine pictures, Anselm, well worth the wait. I particularly liked your photos of Langemarck, the "Brooding soldier", and Vimy in the mist.
laverendrye is offline  
Old Aug 14th, 2009, 05:30 AM
  #82  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 4,450
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
nukesafe, I took that photo (the graves of Jewish soldiers in the German cemetery) for my daughter, who was writing a paper on Germany in the 1920s. If I recollect properly, she had referred to a census conducted during the First War that showed that the percentage of German Jews in active combat exceeded their proportion of the total German population. I am pretty sure I subsequently saw a reference to the same data in <i>The Coming of the Third Reich</i> by Richard Evans, but I can't find a reference in the index.

laverendrye, thanks. I found Langemark (my Michelin map spells it without a "c", but I am never sure how anything is spelled in Belgium) one of the most striking places I have ever been. German cemeteries have a very different feel than French and Commonwealth burial grounds. I still find myself thinking about that mass grave and the remains of 25,000 men in a very small patch of ground.

AA
AnselmAdorne is offline  
Old Aug 14th, 2009, 09:02 AM
  #83  
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 4,412
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Anselm

I have visited several German war cemeteries in France and Belgium and I too find that they have a very different feel. They seem to me to be dark, brooding places.

I don't know whether you visited Vladslo German cemetery near Dixsmuide, but it contains a pair of statues, "The Grieving Parents", by the German sculptress Kaethe Kollwitz, whose son is buried there. It is very moving.

On her last visit to her son's grave, she wrote:

"We went from the figures to Peter's grave, and everything was alive and wholly felt. I stood before the woman, looked at her – my own face – and I wept and stroked her cheeks. Karl stood close behind me – I did not even realize it. I heard him whisper, ‘Yes, yes’. How close we were to one another then!"
laverendrye is offline  
Old Aug 14th, 2009, 09:04 AM
  #84  
yk
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 25,861
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Anselm, thanks for posting the photos. Very melancholic.
yk is offline  
Old Aug 14th, 2009, 09:15 AM
  #85  
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 819
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
On the subject of Langemark, my guide told us that the Germans are buried 7 or 8 deep in each plot quite simply because after the war the Belgians would not let them have any more land for the cemetery.

It is indeed a dark and brooding place.
stfc is offline  
Old Aug 14th, 2009, 12:36 PM
  #86  
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 23,780
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes on 1 Post
German military tombstones are very sad, especially when you compare them to the pure white crosses or stars of the American military cemeteries. French military cemeteries are in between those two.
kerouac is offline  
Old Aug 14th, 2009, 01:35 PM
  #87  
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 554
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thank you so much, Anselm. These photos were truly worth the wait. EJ
elsiejune is offline  
Old Aug 14th, 2009, 02:07 PM
  #88  
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 350
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks from me too Ansel. A few years ago I also visited Langemark. It was a freezing cold, dark, wet day and what is still in my mind is the four statues your photographs so beautifully show. Their bleakness added so much to how we all felt on that visit. We arrived there just after a visit to Tyne Cot and the contrast was so great.

Our guide gave us some interesting titbits of information. I’m not sure if they are historically accurate though. He let us know that the war cemeteries were gifted by Belgium to the allied countries but not Langemark or any other German cemetery. They had to pay. I also recall him mentioning that the reason there were so few headstones and only communal graves in the cemetery was due to the Germans believing that when alive its soldiers fought together therefore, when slain, they lay together.

Joe
joe4212 is offline  
Old Aug 14th, 2009, 03:35 PM
  #89  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 4,450
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks for the comments.

I'm going to see if I can find out a bit more about the history of German military cemeteries in Belgium. When we were in Langemark we overheard a guide explaining that the mass grave had been created and filled after WWII, a relocation of remains that was precipitated by the refusal of the Belgian government to renew leases for several other German cemeteries in Belgium. It's certainly worth tracking down the exact sequence of events.

On another note, I found a contempory photo of Sausage Valley, the place where Harry was killed. This picture was taken 18 days after his death:

http://cas.awm.gov.au/photograph/EZ0113

AA
AnselmAdorne is offline  
Old Aug 14th, 2009, 11:04 PM
  #90  
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 842
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Anselm: I must heartily agree with others that the photos taken by the two of you are truly stunning. You have captured some of the essence of your travels in those photos. Thank you for taking the time to share.

tC
teacherCanada is offline  
Old Aug 15th, 2009, 08:02 AM
  #91  
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,491
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Anselm, thank you for the lovely, sad images. By the time I neared the last of them, tears were flowing. Have you considered creating a book with your images and Harry's letters and your reflections.
julia1 is offline  
Old Aug 15th, 2009, 08:41 AM
  #92  
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 4,849
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Oh, PLEASE do a book! Include the essence of both this, and your "Dead man's neck--" post. I'd certainly buy it, as well as go on a tour that would cover these historic and tragic areas.

nukesafe is offline  
Old Aug 15th, 2009, 10:57 AM
  #93  
 
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 10,279
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
I agree with all the others--very affecting, beautiful photos. Thanks!
Leely2 is offline  
Old Apr 30th, 2012, 09:08 PM
  #94  
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,491
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
This is a wonderful report by AnselmAdorne from several years ago. Topping it for my reference, as I'm starting to plan a similar trip to visit the military cemeteries in Flanders and Picardy.
julia1 is offline  
Old Nov 11th, 2012, 02:19 PM
  #95  
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,491
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Topping again for re-reading.
julia1 is offline  
Old Nov 13th, 2012, 05:31 PM
  #96  
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,012
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
One of my all time favorite reports!
taconictraveler is offline  
Old Jul 2nd, 2013, 09:23 PM
  #97  
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,491
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
So happy to 'top' this again...wonderful!
julia1 is offline  
Old Dec 26th, 2014, 02:32 PM
  #98  
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,491
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
And topping again, for those who haven't read this lovely trip report.
julia1 is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Original Poster
Forum
Replies
Last Post
bev3
South America
4
Oct 26th, 2010 03:46 PM
fball
South America
5
Apr 28th, 2010 09:43 PM
Idnas71
Africa & the Middle East
9
Nov 19th, 2009 09:54 AM
LizYoung
Africa & the Middle East
42
Mar 19th, 2007 01:31 PM
ziggypoo
Africa & the Middle East
4
Nov 28th, 2006 09:07 PM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are On



Contact Us - Manage Preferences - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Do Not Sell or Share My Personal Information -