A different kind of Parisian experience
Aug 29th, 2007, 05:52 AM
#1
Original Poster
A different kind of Parisian experience
For those of you in Paris next weekend, the Hindu community is holding its fabulous Ganesha parade on Sunday 2 September.
The procession begins from the temple at 72 rue Philippe de Girard in the 18th (métro Marx Dormoy). Note: nothing to see at the temple itself - it is just a former warehouse. The procession leaves the temple at 11 am and goes all through the Indian/Srilankan neighborhood: rue Louis Blanc, the Faubourg Saint Denis behind Gare du Nord, rue Marx Dormoy, etc. A sanitation truck sprinkles the pavement in front of the procession with saffron and rose water. The women wear their most fabulous saris while the men of the procession (particularly those pulling the chariot of the elephant god) are barefoot and barechested in a white loincloth.
Each restaurant and shop along the way gives away food and beverages and has a giant pile of coconuts in front, which the chariot pullers smash on the pavement to symbolize the precarity of our existence.
Parisians of all ethnic origins join the parade and take millions of pictures. I enjoy seeing the African, Chinese and Arab communities all joining in the fun as well, as it is the most "mixed" neighborhood of Paris.
After several hours, the procession returns to the temple, and at about 4 pm, thousands and thousands of Hindus hang around metro Marx Dormoy to eat goodies, chew the fat, and buy Spider-Man and Pokemon balloons for their children.
The website with photographs from previous years is here: www.templeganesh.fr
The procession begins from the temple at 72 rue Philippe de Girard in the 18th (métro Marx Dormoy). Note: nothing to see at the temple itself - it is just a former warehouse. The procession leaves the temple at 11 am and goes all through the Indian/Srilankan neighborhood: rue Louis Blanc, the Faubourg Saint Denis behind Gare du Nord, rue Marx Dormoy, etc. A sanitation truck sprinkles the pavement in front of the procession with saffron and rose water. The women wear their most fabulous saris while the men of the procession (particularly those pulling the chariot of the elephant god) are barefoot and barechested in a white loincloth.
Each restaurant and shop along the way gives away food and beverages and has a giant pile of coconuts in front, which the chariot pullers smash on the pavement to symbolize the precarity of our existence.
Parisians of all ethnic origins join the parade and take millions of pictures. I enjoy seeing the African, Chinese and Arab communities all joining in the fun as well, as it is the most "mixed" neighborhood of Paris.
After several hours, the procession returns to the temple, and at about 4 pm, thousands and thousands of Hindus hang around metro Marx Dormoy to eat goodies, chew the fat, and buy Spider-Man and Pokemon balloons for their children.
The website with photographs from previous years is here: www.templeganesh.fr
Aug 30th, 2007, 12:44 AM
#3
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I saw it a couple of years ago - it's great! Don't stand too close when they are smashing the coconuts. The pieces fly everywhere and the juice splashes.
The Parisians run around picking up the biggest clean pieces to take home because most of them have never seen fresh coconut.
The Parisians run around picking up the biggest clean pieces to take home because most of them have never seen fresh coconut.
Sep 1st, 2007, 11:53 AM
#6
Original Poster
I hope you enjoy it, slangevar. Tomorrow is the 10th anniversary, because I remember that the first Ganesha parade took place on the same day that the world learned of Diana's death.
If you have not been to the Indian neighborhood before, I think you will find it quite fascinating -- and you will want to return to shop.
If you have not been to the Indian neighborhood before, I think you will find it quite fascinating -- and you will want to return to shop.
Sep 2nd, 2007, 11:18 AM
#8
Original Poster
If anybody is interested, here are a few photos of today's event:
www.flickr.com/photos/kerouac-paris/
I did notice on the flickr site that there are hundreds of others already posted by various people if you enter "Ganesha Paris" as your search.
www.flickr.com/photos/kerouac-paris/
I did notice on the flickr site that there are hundreds of others already posted by various people if you enter "Ganesha Paris" as your search.
Sep 2nd, 2007, 11:56 AM
#9
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It was absolutely fantastic, kerouac - just like the pictures! I think the coconut smashing was my favorite part... I even managed to snag a great piece before people stepped all over them.
Thanks again for the information - this was one of the highlights of my trip!
Thanks again for the information - this was one of the highlights of my trip!
Sep 3rd, 2007, 08:48 AM
#13
Original Poster
I just hope that more visitors will discover this delightful even.
To reply to Analogue, the other major 'ethnic event' is obviously Chinese New Year. There are four dragon dances, one in each of the four Chinatowns of Paris. The main one is naturally in the biggest Chinatown in the 13th arrondissement (being the trapezoid formed by the following metro stations: Olympiades, Place d'Italie, Maison Blance, Porte de Choisy). It is sponsored by the Laotian-Chinese <i>Tang Frères</i> supermarket dynasty, so the main dragon dance is always on a Sunday for maximum effect (real date of Chinese New Year be damned). Expect riotous conditions, because the Tang people totally respect the tradition and throw red envelopes containing cash to the crowd. You can imagine what happens next.
There is of course Ramadam for the Muslim community (Ramadam starts in 10 days), and the Barbès-Rochechouart and Belleville areas (among others) become extremely festive for a month, after sundown. Giant stands sell all of the traditional pastries, to the extent that one wonders why the whole community does not die of sugar overdose. For those who are worried about fundamentalism, I can assure you that alcohol also flows freely.
To reply to Analogue, the other major 'ethnic event' is obviously Chinese New Year. There are four dragon dances, one in each of the four Chinatowns of Paris. The main one is naturally in the biggest Chinatown in the 13th arrondissement (being the trapezoid formed by the following metro stations: Olympiades, Place d'Italie, Maison Blance, Porte de Choisy). It is sponsored by the Laotian-Chinese <i>Tang Frères</i> supermarket dynasty, so the main dragon dance is always on a Sunday for maximum effect (real date of Chinese New Year be damned). Expect riotous conditions, because the Tang people totally respect the tradition and throw red envelopes containing cash to the crowd. You can imagine what happens next.
There is of course Ramadam for the Muslim community (Ramadam starts in 10 days), and the Barbès-Rochechouart and Belleville areas (among others) become extremely festive for a month, after sundown. Giant stands sell all of the traditional pastries, to the extent that one wonders why the whole community does not die of sugar overdose. For those who are worried about fundamentalism, I can assure you that alcohol also flows freely.
