enzian

Hello---we are thinking of talking our daughters to Italy next summer (2010) as a graduation present. One is graduating from high school, the other from college. We have previously taken them to Switzerland (twice) as well as London and Paris. My husband thinks Italy sounds just right.

However---I cannot abide the thought of going to Europe without at least a couple of days in Switzerland, so I am proposing that we fly into Zürich and spend a couple of nights in Luzern. We spent a few hours there on our last trip, and it is high on our daughter's list for a return visit.

After Luzern we would head south to Italy, spending 2 more Swiss nights on the way. I am thinking of following the Bernina Express route as far as Tirano, with a stop in the Engadine. I know that 2 nights is not nearly enough in this area, which I have not yet visited in my 4 trips to Switzerland. I am thinking of this as an Engadine scouting trip for next time, when I will hopefully have a week to spend there.

So the question is, where to stop? I would like to keep fairly close to the main route, and stay in a village accessed by train. I thought of Pontresina, but it doesn't seem all that "charming". I know that Guarda has many fans here, including some whose opinions I respect greatly (Ingo and Schuler). And it is not too far from the main route; we would just have to backtrack a bit to Pontresina to continue to Tirano. But from what I have read, we would have a steep climb to gain the 250 meters difference between the train station and the village. While we are strong hikers, we don't enjoy doing that with our luggage. (My family still hasn't forgiven me for the time we walked up to Oeschinensee---an ascent of 500 meters over 2 km---with our luggage, on a hot day).

The hotel website (Meisser) doesn't say a word about getting from the Bahnhof up to the hotel.

So what about Ardez instead of Guarda? It seems like the train stops much closer to the village itself, and the village is (according to my guidebooks) very charming, with typical Engadine architecture and sgriffito. And I found a hotel, Schorta's Alvetern, which sounds very welcoming. Do any of you know it?

I would appreciate your thoughts---alternative villages, particular hotels, etc. We like small, friendly, family-run 3* hotels with great food; luxury and spas are NOT required. Views around the area, and hopefully from our room balcony are a big plus. I would like to keep each day's train travel (Luzern to X and X on to Varenna) to 5 hours or less if possible.

Thank you for your help.

kleeblatt

There are buses that run once an hour from Scuol - Ardez. We used the bus continuously last February to get from Sent to Scuol. No problem at all. The bus will pick you up at the Scuol train station.

The Alvetern looks nice and cosy. Another hotel that gets glowing reviews, especially for it's balcony and food is the Hotel Engadiana in Ftan. I looked at holidaycheck and the hotel was highly recommended. http://www.holidaycheck.ch/hotel-Hot...hid_89326.html

enzian

Thanks, Schuler.

So there are 2 ways to get to Guarda, the bus from Scuol, and the train that runs down in the valley below? Does the bus take the high route and go right to Guarda itself?

The one problem I can see with that is that we would be doing a lot of backtracking---coming from Luzern on the train, we would change at Samedan and head east, actually passing Guarda to get to Scuol, and then catching the bus back.

I guess my question is whether Guarda is really worth the extra train/bus transfers and travel time for this short stay of 2 nights? Is the scenery like the Dolomites, as I have read? I keep reading that it is "the most beautiful" valley in the Alps, but I can't find good photos that demonstrate why.

Ingo

Nope: The bus to Guarda runs from the train stop 'Guarda' that is down in the valley. For listing the connections to the village Guarda plug in "Guarda, cumün". Really, the schedule is co-ordinated with the train schedules. No worries about hiking up/down with luggage. The bus that schuler mentioned runs as replacement for the trains between Scuol and Ardez due to construction works in the Tasna tunnel.

The Alvetern in Ardez is unfortunately on the opposite end of the village coming from the train station - quite a distance to walk! I have had a meal once in the other hotel in Ardez, the Aurora, and found it to be very good. The hotel looked quite nice with balconies providing great views of the valley/mountains but it lacks the rustic and cozy charm of a typical Engadin house. Pretty modern.

Any hotel in Guarda is good for you. Most typical charm has probably the Pension Val Tuoi. Ask for a room with balcony. The Piz Buin is also a good choice, a bit larger and with a good restaurant and nice garden. They have more rooms with balcony.

I checked the connections between Luzern and Guarda and they're not bad. Leave Luzern at 8.35 or 10.35 and you'll be in Guarda (village) at 12.19 or 14.19. Sounds good to me.

The connections Guarda-Varenna are interesting: You have two options: Either via St. Moritz and Val Bregaglia/Chiavenna (Postal bus - 5 hours) or Bernina Express via Tirano which would give you a half hour for lunch in Tirano (pizzerias right by the train station) but takes 6.5 hours. I'd say both are doable and not too long (you'll see, time flies by) despite your limit of 5 hours for the trip.

Another option is to stay in the Upper Engadine. I personally prefer Sils or Silvaplana because of the lake/mountain views. Admittedly, it involves changes to bus at the train station in St. Moritz. But it's not too bad IMO. I find Pontresina to be squeezed in between the mountains. It's a different character of landscape than in the wide open valley with the lakes around Sils/Silvaplana.

Ugh. So many decisions ...

Ingo

kleeblatt

The difference between the Dolomites and Unterengadin?

The Dolomite mountains are dramatic and highly scenic.

The Unterengadin villages are quaint and magical.

enzian

Thank you so much, Ingo and Schuler.

Ingo, I should have known the bus at Guarda would coincide with the arrival of the train--this being Switzerland. But I couldn't confirm that on the web. Now I know.

Pension Val Tuoi would be our choice for lodging for sure, especially with a balcony---always a plus for me. But I think I will have to save it to next time. I shared the current trip thoughts with my husband, and he thinks it is too much travel time for the girls to detour to Guarda for an overnight stay. He suggested we stay in Pontresina 2 nights and go to Guarda as a day excursion. At least that way I can look around and choose the best place to go next time, with my hiking group. And then we'll have a shorter trip to Varenna, and keep the girls happy.

I think he just wants to try out that new Pontresina Hallenbad with a 25 meter pool.

Schuler--your comments comport with the photos I have seen. But somewhere I read that geologically speaking, the mountains of the Unterengadine---at least around Scuol--- are a continuation of the Dolomites. Looking at a map, I think they must mean the Brenta Dolomites. Scuol is not far from the Stelvio Pass region, another area I long to visit.

As Ingo says, so many decisions. . .

kleeblatt

Enzian: a day trip from Pontresina is fine. We did a day trip from Sent to Poschiavo (Bernina express) and back last October.

Enjoy!

Ingo

Honestly, if you're in the area for the first time I highly recommend you check out the Upper Engadine around the lakes of Sils and Silvaplana. Go to the cable car station Sils-Furtschellas by bus, go up, hike via Marmoré to the Fex Valley (Hotel Fex) and back to Sils (or take the horse-drawn carriage back). It's the essential Upper Engadine experience IMO. Or do the Muottas Muragl (funicular) to Alp Languard hike (chair lift down), which is another top thing to do. But a day trip to Guarda is not the first thing I'd do. And then there's still the Roseg Valley or the Diavolezza cable car ... and much more.

I.

enzian

Those suggestions sound excellent, and I'm sure we would enjoy the hike (and seeing the lakes). Maybe we could do the short excurions to Guarda and walk Ardez---Guarda after arrival in Pontresina our first day?

Thank you for your help!

Ingo

Not enough time after arrivial, I am afraid. Don't underestimate the distances between Upper and Lower Engadin (and in the area in general). Sure, you could do an excursion to Guarda - but you wouldn't have enough time to wander around, to actually *enjoy* what you're seeing. And the hike Ardez-Guarda is at least an hour, not to mention the photo stops

Better concentrate on the area around Pontresina the first day. You could probably take the chair lift up to Alp Languard and enjoy the views from there, then explore the small town a bit.