A bit of Scotland, wing mirror casualty, 7 days in London, and a Fodors GTG
May 19th, 2013, 10:35 AM
#1
Original Poster
A bit of Scotland, wing mirror casualty, 7 days in London, and a Fodors GTG
Back a week ago Friday and am <i>finally</i> caught up, ready to start the TR.
<B>Background</B>: Some you have read my trip report of last year's journey to scatter Mom and Dad's ashes at the Lake of Menteith, tour the Dales, visit Jersey, and attend the Jubilee festivities. This trip was a follow up of sorts. I have a timeshare at Lake Tahoe and last year I tried to trade for a place near Aberfoyle/the Lake of Menteith. No trade came through so I ended up renting one of the condos at the same resort for 3 days. . . Then this January I get a call from RCI that they found me a trade in central Scotland for late April. Huh?? I thought the search was over and done with. But what the Hell - OK which property is it? 'Kilconquhar Estate near Edinburgh' Oh boy (the place really isn't 'near' Edinburgh, it is in Fife near Anstruther/Pittenweem and about 10 miles from St Andrews. I have stayed there before and LOVE the area.
What to do? OK I can have a 'free' week at Kilconquhar so time to plan an unplanned trip to the UK. I called my cousin who was very close to my mother and asked if she'd like to see the Lake of Menteith, get a teensy taste of a small corner of Scotland, and spend a few days in London? DC has never traveled out of the country (except for a couple of trips to Canada) jumped at the chance - though this is very out of her comfort zone. Initially DC said 2 weeks was her limit being away from home/the grandkids. But after we started talking about what what we wanted to do she agreed to 20 days. So the planning began . . .
<B>April 21</B>: We flew SMF > LAX > LHR > EDI arriving in Edinburgh mid afternoon April 22. We had aisle/middle seats on the LAX/LHR flight. I figured we'd be up and down all night letting the man in the window seat out. But in the entire 10.5 hour flight he didn't get up - not <i>once</i>. Now, I tend to have iron kidneys - but that must be some sort of record
http://edinburgh.frasershospitality.com
<B>April 22</B>: We took a cab from EDI to Fraser Suites in Old Town. I really liked this place. Got a pretty good discount for booking on line-pre-paying so we opted for a mini suite. Nice Bedroom, small living room, wet bat/fridge/microwave, and very nice bathroom. Lots of closet space, fluffy robes, etc. There was a mix up and we didn't get the two beds I thought was booked - but they made up the sofa sleeper in the living room. Somehow we broke the sofa sleeper (get your minds out of the gutter
) and it took two visits by engineering/housekeeping to get it sorted out. A gorgeous bath/shower combo but too clever by half. Took about 15 minutes to figure out the various valves/knobs/dials. The bathroom actually needs an owners manual - not an exaggeration - later we found instructions for the bathtub in the binder w/ hotel/area info. Gorgeous bathroom but too clever by half - especially when one is jetlagged and just wants a nice soak.
It was sunny but very Cold/WINDY. We were total zombies after SMF/LAX/LHR/EDI trek. Didn't see/do too much but unpack walk towards castle and back down the Royal mile a bit. Ate at a cafe
<B>April 23</B>: Still very cold/windy and intermittent showers. But no heavy rain so was OK. Had a nice buffet breakfast at the hotel. Our discounted rate didn't include breakfast but because of the bed mix up they threw it in. We walked up to the Castle first. Spent a couple of hours there. I've been many times so only planned on doing what/as much as DC wanted. She is an easy going 'tourist' and this is going to work out great. Then we walked back down the Royal Mile to St Giles Cathedral and especially to see the Montrose memorial.
Stopped for tea/pastries and then walked down to Holyrood. The showers stopped and it cleared up a lot - but still very blustery. DC enjoyed Holyrood Palace but really liked the Abbey more. Like everywhere else we visited in Scotland - due to the late/cold Spring virtually nothing was in bloom. DC has some health problems - not serious but she does have problems walking long distances. So after touring the Palace/Abbey, instead of trudging back up the Royal Mile or down to Princes Street we jumped on a a waiting hop-on-hop-off bus to give her a glimpse of other parts of Edinburgh. We only have two nights in the city so we really have one day to 'see' Edinburgh.
For dinner we wandered over to GrassMarket and found Bistro Bleu. They have an AMAZING early special. If one orders by 6:30 (we got there at 6:25 !) there is a £7.50 early set dinner (£5 one course, £7.50 two course). I had onion soup and a duck confit "shepherds pie" - for <B>£7.50</B> - and it was very good. Glass of wine was (I think) £4 so an amazingly cheap dinner. Took a peek at the regular menu and the entrees were 2 to 3 times what we paid early-bird.
<B>Apr 24</B> For the second straight night I got very little sleep. Not really jet lagged - more wired. DC didn't have any problems . . . But even w/ no sleep I felt pretty good. We had breakfast and the hotel called us a taxi for the trip out to EDI to collect our rental car. We got a VW Golf -nice car. For the first time ever I took out the full insurance (through AotoEurope) which would turn out to be a wise decision. I also prepaid a tank of petrol which I <u>never</u> do but because we're dropping it off so early in the morning I didn't want to be hunting for a petrol station.
Today was beautiful. Warm-ish and sunny. We thought we might stop at Stirling Castle but decided to put that off for a couple of days til we were enroute over to Fife. So we stopped at Doune which DC absolutely LOVED. Had a late lunch in Callander then drove over the Duke's Road through the park - one of my favorite drives in Scotland. This put us too late to go out to Inchmahome island in the Lake. Will do that tomorrow morning.
Drove to our B&B for the next two nights - Inchie Farm just off the Lake and about a mile from the Lake Hotel/pier for Inchmahome. Lovely place - not at all posh but very comfortable and wonderful full cooked breakfasts.
We had dinner in the pub at Lake Hotel - I had lamb casserole and DC fish&chips.
http://inchiefarm.co.uk
Next: Inchmahome, Falls of Dochart, Rob Roy and daffodils EVERYWHERE
<B>Background</B>: Some you have read my trip report of last year's journey to scatter Mom and Dad's ashes at the Lake of Menteith, tour the Dales, visit Jersey, and attend the Jubilee festivities. This trip was a follow up of sorts. I have a timeshare at Lake Tahoe and last year I tried to trade for a place near Aberfoyle/the Lake of Menteith. No trade came through so I ended up renting one of the condos at the same resort for 3 days. . . Then this January I get a call from RCI that they found me a trade in central Scotland for late April. Huh?? I thought the search was over and done with. But what the Hell - OK which property is it? 'Kilconquhar Estate near Edinburgh' Oh boy (the place really isn't 'near' Edinburgh, it is in Fife near Anstruther/Pittenweem and about 10 miles from St Andrews. I have stayed there before and LOVE the area.
What to do? OK I can have a 'free' week at Kilconquhar so time to plan an unplanned trip to the UK. I called my cousin who was very close to my mother and asked if she'd like to see the Lake of Menteith, get a teensy taste of a small corner of Scotland, and spend a few days in London? DC has never traveled out of the country (except for a couple of trips to Canada) jumped at the chance - though this is very out of her comfort zone. Initially DC said 2 weeks was her limit being away from home/the grandkids. But after we started talking about what what we wanted to do she agreed to 20 days. So the planning began . . .
<B>April 21</B>: We flew SMF > LAX > LHR > EDI arriving in Edinburgh mid afternoon April 22. We had aisle/middle seats on the LAX/LHR flight. I figured we'd be up and down all night letting the man in the window seat out. But in the entire 10.5 hour flight he didn't get up - not <i>once</i>. Now, I tend to have iron kidneys - but that must be some sort of record
http://edinburgh.frasershospitality.com
<B>April 22</B>: We took a cab from EDI to Fraser Suites in Old Town. I really liked this place. Got a pretty good discount for booking on line-pre-paying so we opted for a mini suite. Nice Bedroom, small living room, wet bat/fridge/microwave, and very nice bathroom. Lots of closet space, fluffy robes, etc. There was a mix up and we didn't get the two beds I thought was booked - but they made up the sofa sleeper in the living room. Somehow we broke the sofa sleeper (get your minds out of the gutter
) and it took two visits by engineering/housekeeping to get it sorted out. A gorgeous bath/shower combo but too clever by half. Took about 15 minutes to figure out the various valves/knobs/dials. The bathroom actually needs an owners manual - not an exaggeration - later we found instructions for the bathtub in the binder w/ hotel/area info. Gorgeous bathroom but too clever by half - especially when one is jetlagged and just wants a nice soak. It was sunny but very Cold/WINDY. We were total zombies after SMF/LAX/LHR/EDI trek. Didn't see/do too much but unpack walk towards castle and back down the Royal mile a bit. Ate at a cafe
<B>April 23</B>: Still very cold/windy and intermittent showers. But no heavy rain so was OK. Had a nice buffet breakfast at the hotel. Our discounted rate didn't include breakfast but because of the bed mix up they threw it in. We walked up to the Castle first. Spent a couple of hours there. I've been many times so only planned on doing what/as much as DC wanted. She is an easy going 'tourist' and this is going to work out great. Then we walked back down the Royal Mile to St Giles Cathedral and especially to see the Montrose memorial.
Stopped for tea/pastries and then walked down to Holyrood. The showers stopped and it cleared up a lot - but still very blustery. DC enjoyed Holyrood Palace but really liked the Abbey more. Like everywhere else we visited in Scotland - due to the late/cold Spring virtually nothing was in bloom. DC has some health problems - not serious but she does have problems walking long distances. So after touring the Palace/Abbey, instead of trudging back up the Royal Mile or down to Princes Street we jumped on a a waiting hop-on-hop-off bus to give her a glimpse of other parts of Edinburgh. We only have two nights in the city so we really have one day to 'see' Edinburgh.
For dinner we wandered over to GrassMarket and found Bistro Bleu. They have an AMAZING early special. If one orders by 6:30 (we got there at 6:25 !) there is a £7.50 early set dinner (£5 one course, £7.50 two course). I had onion soup and a duck confit "shepherds pie" - for <B>£7.50</B> - and it was very good. Glass of wine was (I think) £4 so an amazingly cheap dinner. Took a peek at the regular menu and the entrees were 2 to 3 times what we paid early-bird.
<B>Apr 24</B> For the second straight night I got very little sleep. Not really jet lagged - more wired. DC didn't have any problems . . . But even w/ no sleep I felt pretty good. We had breakfast and the hotel called us a taxi for the trip out to EDI to collect our rental car. We got a VW Golf -nice car. For the first time ever I took out the full insurance (through AotoEurope) which would turn out to be a wise decision. I also prepaid a tank of petrol which I <u>never</u> do but because we're dropping it off so early in the morning I didn't want to be hunting for a petrol station.
Today was beautiful. Warm-ish and sunny. We thought we might stop at Stirling Castle but decided to put that off for a couple of days til we were enroute over to Fife. So we stopped at Doune which DC absolutely LOVED. Had a late lunch in Callander then drove over the Duke's Road through the park - one of my favorite drives in Scotland. This put us too late to go out to Inchmahome island in the Lake. Will do that tomorrow morning.
Drove to our B&B for the next two nights - Inchie Farm just off the Lake and about a mile from the Lake Hotel/pier for Inchmahome. Lovely place - not at all posh but very comfortable and wonderful full cooked breakfasts.
We had dinner in the pub at Lake Hotel - I had lamb casserole and DC fish&chips.
http://inchiefarm.co.uk
Next: Inchmahome, Falls of Dochart, Rob Roy and daffodils EVERYWHERE
May 19th, 2013, 02:49 PM
#12
Original Poster
Thanks everyone. It may take me a couple of days to finish the full TR but I'll plug away while channel surfing between the golf and NBA playoffs . . .
Sandy: "Why did you decide to sign on for the full insurance this time on the hire car?"
As I mentioned, this trip was stepping outside DC's normal comfort zone. I just wanted to make things as smooth as possible - I've always depended on insurance from my cc. But figured having full coverage/no CDW/excess to worry about if there was any sort of incident we could walk away and not have to deal w/ reimbursement/futzing around w/ claims, whatever.
Inchmahome, Falls of Dochart, Rob Roy and daffodils EVERYWHERE
April 25: Had a wonderful, big breakfast - oatmeal, eggs, sausage, bacon, grilled tomatoes, toast, tea, juice, home made marmalade, etc. Morning was drizzly but not too cold. First thing was a trip out to Inchmahome Priory on the Lake of Menteith - the main catalyst for the trip (other than the accommodations at Kilconquhar). We lucked out - no rain the whole time we were on the boat/island. Had a really lovely time - spent maybe 90 minutes out on the island. Sometimes I am a broken record on here telling folks about the Trossachs/Lake of Menteith/Inchmahome. But really- if you are ever in the area - GO! Inchmahome is just ethereal. On a coolish/damp day like this it is lovely. On a gorgeous/warm day it is maybe one of the nicest picnic spot in Scotland. And now I have a permanent connection w/ my mom and dad. Normally in April the 'wild' half of the island is a carpet of buebells but again due to the late Spring they weren't yet in bloom. But there were lots of daffodils on the 'manicured/Priory' side of the island.
Then we drove up to Killin and the Falls of Dochart. It was a beautiful drive w/ broken sun and a couple of rainbows. We pulled into Killin and just as we got out of the car the skies just opened up and it POURED!. Jumped back in the car and waited it out. Poured rain but we waited it out in the car and it ended up lovely. The Falls were magnificent - about the highest I've ever seen them.
Then to Balquhidder and Rob Roy's grave. It wasn't just at Inchmahome - Daffodils were everywhere - nothing else blooming or budded out.
Then back to Callander for tea/scones and a little shopping. Bought a new road atlas to take home. (Will toss my old ratty Michelin one when we leave Kilconquhar). We drove through Aberfoyle, along Loch Ard and out to Forest Hills to show DC where we've stayed so many times. Then out the single track to Inversnaid so DC can at least say she's seen Loch Lomond. Finished up at the Lake Hotel again for dinner and drinks. I had the Mussels starter and was so full decided on just having another starter - pâté, toast, chutney and a very small salad.
<B>April 26 Stirling, an 'incident' w/ the car, our home for the next week</B>: Bright and sunny this morning! After another good breakfast left Inchie farm about 9:30. and headed to Stirling Castle. DC really enjoyed it but was having a bit of a time walking so we were only there maybe 90 minutes. Saw most of the 'big bits' and DC was perfectly happy skipping the rest. Headed east and was deciding whether I'd stop in Dollar and visit Castle Campbell. Wasn't sure because of DCs walking struggles.
Then it was decided for me - Driving through Tilicoultry I was giving way to an oncoming car in a narrow part of the village and a temporary warning/diversion sign jumped out and bit me It was one of those yellow signs that is often propped up w/ sandbags. Stupid council - the sign was in a bad place. Stupid VW Golf - Bad design 
The side mirrors are very wide and come to an extended point. If you are like me - the first few days in a new/rental car I have a hard time visualizing the outside dimensions (Get that I'm fishing for any excuse 
) Anyway I totally smashed the offside mirror on the diversion sign. It didn't just break -- it exploded. Sounded like a gunshot. Scared DC to death (and me too). The mirror housing was standing straight up - normally it is supposed to <i>horizontal</i>. I pulled over in a layby a few miles on and wrestled the housing sort of back into place - at least so it wasn't dropping pieces along the road. (And after being destroyed - the lighting/indicators in the mirror still worked?!)
I've never had an 'incident' driving in the UK (except years ago when a nitwit was overtaking on a blind summit and managed to total my car, his car and the car he was overtaking) and I was pretty shook up for the rest of the drive - so we didn't stop at Castle Campbell or Loch Leven. By the time we pulled into Kilconquhar I was back to normal. The only problem would be parallel parking would be a non-starter for the rest of the week w/ no offside mirror. (Funny - the car parked the next cottage to ours also had a destroyed offside mirror )
Got to Kilconquhar around 1:30 and cottage was ready. Very nice w. open aspect views across grounds - and bunnies all over the lawn. We had a lounge, two bedrooms, full kitchen, dining room, two baths (one w/ a HUGE jacuzzi tub - I've see smaller hot tubs. Three tellys a small patio and outdoor furniture, all mod cons including a dishwasher and large fridge. Plus there is an indoor pool, spa, rec center, putting green/driving range, croquet lawn, tennis courts, the White Cockade pub/restaurant and a very small shop for newspapers and basic supplies.
I've stayed in the posher 'castle suites' before - in the main house. But this time we were in one of the 'modern' cottages in the grounds. The decor was sort of 70's-80's generic but it was very clean and the view was very pretty.
Had a late lunch in White Cockade pub on site - just sandwiches/soup but cheap and tasty. Then we drove over to do some grocery shopping in Anstruther. We unpacked and relaxed and decided - heck the pub is only 100 yards away - lets go back there for dinner. I had smoked salmon starter, lamb casserole main, all for just £12.50.
April 27 - the Fife fishing villages</B>: Beautiful morning. Not warm but bright sunshine and very little wind. Drove over to Crail first - saw harbour and had capachino/tea in a new little cafe/gallery/shop in one of the fisherman's cottages. Warm enough to sit out in the sun trap terrace with views over to Bass rock. Caril is one of may fave places and DC just loved it. She was walking better today so we explored up and down and around the harbor/seawall/village.
Then on to Anstruther. Thought we'd try to eat lunch at the Cellar but it has closed. I knew the owner/chef had died a few months ago but thought the restaurant was still open (the website was still up). Very sad - apparently the owner had money problems and other issues and took his life.
So we decided on fish & chips at the Fish Bar. But there was a huge queue down the stairs and out the door. So we went to the Fisheries Museum to wait them out. This museum is very well done and is a place one can spend as much or as little time as you want depending how detailed you are. By the time we returned to the Fish Bar we were seated immediately. Had terrific Haddock and chips, withe bread and butter, tea.
Then on to Pittenweem and then St Monans mainly to show DC the best of the fishing villages in one sweep. I went up a VERY narrow road down in the harbour area in St Monans - and was basically stuck. (and w/ no offside mirror reversing was a bee-atch. But another driver parked in the way got in her car and moved it a few feet to give me an exit -- like I always say, driving in the UK is a team sport! ;-)
Then to Kellie Castle - which is interesting but the main claim to fame is its lovely gardens . Since <u>nothing</u> was in bloom we didn't stay too awfully long. Back to Kilquoncuhar, had drinks in the White Cockade pub then back to the cottage and grazing for dinner.
Next: St Andrews, Glamis, the Peat Inn . . . .
Sandy: "Why did you decide to sign on for the full insurance this time on the hire car?"
As I mentioned, this trip was stepping outside DC's normal comfort zone. I just wanted to make things as smooth as possible - I've always depended on insurance from my cc. But figured having full coverage/no CDW/excess to worry about if there was any sort of incident we could walk away and not have to deal w/ reimbursement/futzing around w/ claims, whatever.
Inchmahome, Falls of Dochart, Rob Roy and daffodils EVERYWHERE
April 25: Had a wonderful, big breakfast - oatmeal, eggs, sausage, bacon, grilled tomatoes, toast, tea, juice, home made marmalade, etc. Morning was drizzly but not too cold. First thing was a trip out to Inchmahome Priory on the Lake of Menteith - the main catalyst for the trip (other than the accommodations at Kilconquhar). We lucked out - no rain the whole time we were on the boat/island. Had a really lovely time - spent maybe 90 minutes out on the island. Sometimes I am a broken record on here telling folks about the Trossachs/Lake of Menteith/Inchmahome. But really- if you are ever in the area - GO! Inchmahome is just ethereal. On a coolish/damp day like this it is lovely. On a gorgeous/warm day it is maybe one of the nicest picnic spot in Scotland. And now I have a permanent connection w/ my mom and dad. Normally in April the 'wild' half of the island is a carpet of buebells but again due to the late Spring they weren't yet in bloom. But there were lots of daffodils on the 'manicured/Priory' side of the island.
Then we drove up to Killin and the Falls of Dochart. It was a beautiful drive w/ broken sun and a couple of rainbows. We pulled into Killin and just as we got out of the car the skies just opened up and it POURED!. Jumped back in the car and waited it out. Poured rain but we waited it out in the car and it ended up lovely. The Falls were magnificent - about the highest I've ever seen them.
Then to Balquhidder and Rob Roy's grave. It wasn't just at Inchmahome - Daffodils were everywhere - nothing else blooming or budded out.
Then back to Callander for tea/scones and a little shopping. Bought a new road atlas to take home. (Will toss my old ratty Michelin one when we leave Kilconquhar). We drove through Aberfoyle, along Loch Ard and out to Forest Hills to show DC where we've stayed so many times. Then out the single track to Inversnaid so DC can at least say she's seen Loch Lomond. Finished up at the Lake Hotel again for dinner and drinks. I had the Mussels starter and was so full decided on just having another starter - pâté, toast, chutney and a very small salad.
<B>April 26 Stirling, an 'incident' w/ the car, our home for the next week</B>: Bright and sunny this morning! After another good breakfast left Inchie farm about 9:30. and headed to Stirling Castle. DC really enjoyed it but was having a bit of a time walking so we were only there maybe 90 minutes. Saw most of the 'big bits' and DC was perfectly happy skipping the rest. Headed east and was deciding whether I'd stop in Dollar and visit Castle Campbell. Wasn't sure because of DCs walking struggles.
Then it was decided for me - Driving through Tilicoultry I was giving way to an oncoming car in a narrow part of the village and a temporary warning/diversion sign jumped out and bit me
It was one of those yellow signs that is often propped up w/ sandbags. Stupid council - the sign was in a bad place. Stupid VW Golf - Bad design The side mirrors are very wide and come to an extended point. If you are like me - the first few days in a new/rental car I have a hard time visualizing the outside dimensions (Get that I'm fishing for any excuse ) Anyway I totally smashed the offside mirror on the diversion sign. It didn't just break -- it exploded. Sounded like a gunshot. Scared DC to death (and me too). The mirror housing was standing straight up - normally it is supposed to <i>horizontal</i>. I pulled over in a layby a few miles on and wrestled the housing sort of back into place - at least so it wasn't dropping pieces along the road. (And after being destroyed - the lighting/indicators in the mirror still worked?!)I've never had an 'incident' driving in the UK (except years ago when a nitwit was overtaking on a blind summit and managed to total my car, his car and the car he was overtaking) and I was pretty shook up for the rest of the drive - so we didn't stop at Castle Campbell or Loch Leven. By the time we pulled into Kilconquhar I was back to normal. The only problem would be parallel parking would be a non-starter for the rest of the week w/ no offside mirror. (Funny - the car parked the next cottage to ours also had a destroyed offside mirror
)Got to Kilconquhar around 1:30 and cottage was ready. Very nice w. open aspect views across grounds - and bunnies
all over the lawn. We had a lounge, two bedrooms, full kitchen, dining room, two baths (one w/ a HUGE jacuzzi tub - I've see smaller hot tubs. Three tellys a small patio and outdoor furniture, all mod cons including a dishwasher and large fridge. Plus there is an indoor pool, spa, rec center, putting green/driving range, croquet lawn, tennis courts, the White Cockade pub/restaurant and a very small shop for newspapers and basic supplies.I've stayed in the posher 'castle suites' before - in the main house. But this time we were in one of the 'modern' cottages in the grounds. The decor was sort of 70's-80's generic but it was very clean and the view was very pretty.
Had a late lunch in White Cockade pub on site - just sandwiches/soup but cheap and tasty. Then we drove over to do some grocery shopping in Anstruther. We unpacked and relaxed and decided - heck the pub is only 100 yards away - lets go back there for dinner. I had smoked salmon starter, lamb casserole main, all for just £12.50.
April 27 - the Fife fishing villages</B>: Beautiful morning. Not warm but bright sunshine and very little wind. Drove over to Crail first - saw harbour and had capachino/tea in a new little cafe/gallery/shop in one of the fisherman's cottages. Warm enough to sit out in the sun trap terrace with views over to Bass rock. Caril is one of may fave places and DC just loved it. She was walking better today so we explored up and down and around the harbor/seawall/village.
Then on to Anstruther. Thought we'd try to eat lunch at the Cellar but it has closed. I knew the owner/chef had died a few months ago but thought the restaurant was still open (the website was still up). Very sad - apparently the owner had money problems and other issues and took his life.
So we decided on fish & chips at the Fish Bar. But there was a huge queue down the stairs and out the door. So we went to the Fisheries Museum to wait them out. This museum is very well done and is a place one can spend as much or as little time as you want depending how detailed you are. By the time we returned to the Fish Bar we were seated immediately. Had terrific Haddock and chips, withe bread and butter, tea.
Then on to Pittenweem and then St Monans mainly to show DC the best of the fishing villages in one sweep. I went up a VERY narrow road down in the harbour area in St Monans - and was basically stuck. (and w/ no offside mirror reversing was a bee-atch. But another driver parked in the way got in her car and moved it a few feet to give me an exit -- like I always say, driving in the UK is a team sport! ;-)
Then to Kellie Castle - which is interesting but the main claim to fame is its lovely gardens . Since <u>nothing</u> was in bloom we didn't stay too awfully long. Back to Kilquoncuhar, had drinks in the White Cockade pub then back to the cottage and grazing for dinner.
Next: St Andrews, Glamis, the Peat Inn . . . .
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May 19th, 2013, 03:49 PM
#14
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Enjoying your trip report. Windy Edinburgh ....reminds me of our last trip there when we were blasted by the remnants of Hurricane Irene.
Sorry to hear about the death of owner of the Cellar. Hope some enterprising person can carry on.
Love all the stops for tea/ cakes. A perfect opportunity to relax and reflect,at least IMO
Taking notes on places to stay for my next trip. I've seen a lot of Scotland but haven't been to Lake Menteith. Have you visited the little museum above the souvenir shop at Dochart Falls? It has a small but interesting exhibit on St. Inian
Would loved to have seen falls in full force. Lucky you.
Pardon mistakes, my fingers are too fat for I Pad.
Sorry to hear about the death of owner of the Cellar. Hope some enterprising person can carry on.
Love all the stops for tea/ cakes. A perfect opportunity to relax and reflect,at least IMO
Taking notes on places to stay for my next trip. I've seen a lot of Scotland but haven't been to Lake Menteith. Have you visited the little museum above the souvenir shop at Dochart Falls? It has a small but interesting exhibit on St. Inian
Would loved to have seen falls in full force. Lucky you.
Pardon mistakes, my fingers are too fat for I Pad.
May 19th, 2013, 05:51 PM
#15
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Janisj - I so love the info that you have provided helping answer my and others questions, but I am seriously enjoying this trip report! I can't wait for the next installment. I will certainly be borrowing April 23 itinerary - most notably dinner and tour bus.
May 19th, 2013, 08:11 PM
#16
Original Poster
<B>St Andrews, Falkland, the Peat Inn, Glamis, . . . .
April 28 - St Andrews</B>: Today is 'supposed' to be in St Andrews since there is no play on the Old Course and we can walk all over. DC's sons/grandsons are BIG into golf so this excursion is a must. But it is blowing a gale and is dark/cloudy. We plan on waiting it out and hopefully at least the wind will let up. It stayed nasty until mid day. Ate potato leek soup in the White Cockade and headed out to St Andrews around 1PM. Parked in the Scores right across from the bridge/Swilkern Burn. DC was thrilled - we got out of the car and were just a few feet from that famous bridge. We took photos of the bridge, 18th, 1st and the R&A. A couple was taking turns standing on the bridge taking photos of each other. I offered to snap them together and then all four of us took turns taking pix w/ each others cameras.
DC bought lots (and LOTS) of hats and gear in the Old Course shop - gifts for every friend/relative w/ any interest in golf - had everything shipped. Just as we left the shop to look at other parts of the Old Course the the skies opened up and It absolutely POURED! We ran to the car and waited it out. It let up and we decided to walk to the Castle and Cathedral. DC enjoyed the castle - but she has enough castles under her belt by now she is starting to compare one to another and St Andrews was merely interesting - not WOW like some of the others. But the Cathedral really knocked her socks off. That initial view through the west door will do that to you.
Then we walked back through town towards the Old Course and stopped for tea, finger sandwiches in the bar of Russacks. Amazing view of the entire course and the bay.
Returned 'home' about 7:00 and had wine/cheese/nibbles watching the sunset and bunnies on the lawn from our terrace . . .
<B>April 29 - Falkland Palace and Hill of Tarvit House</B>
Today was VERY windy and the weather looked awfully threatening. We had planned on hitting Glamis and Dunnottar but decided to put them off - hopefully Wed will be nicer weather. Instead we went to Falkland Palace then on to Hill of Tarvit House. Falkland is a very interesting property - and the village is really pretty. Falkland's garden is one of my favorites but unfortunately, like everywhere else, nothing was in bloom. Hill of Travit is entirely different than anyplace we'd see on the whole trip. It is centuries newer - Edwardian - so one can really sense what it would be like to live there. Again nothing in bloom except the ubiquitous daffodils and a few primroses. We had tea, cream of carrot/coriader soup and cheese/chutney sandwiches in the cafe - very fresh and very good. Picked up some yummy desserts to take home for dinner. Stayed in and had baked potatoes/soup and dessert.
<B>April 30 - the Peat Inn</B>
We had planned all along on booking a dinner at the Peat Inn but decided to do lunch instead. We rang up on Sunday and booked for this afternoon. So this morning we had a late lie in and lazy morning. Then dressed up in 'London clothes' for 12:30 booking at the Peat Inn. As the 3 other times I've eaten there it was absolutely wonderful! Two amuse buche little cheese puffs in the lounge, then another - beet root, smoked mackerel, horseradish creme fraiche. My starter was oyster pannecotta with caviar, smoked salmon and cauliflower purée and my main - lamb with braised leeks, pureed potatoes. DC had lobster bisque with scallop tartare and dressed crab starter, and Cod with jersey potatoes, asparagus and peas. Dessert was delice of chocolate (VERY dense) with coffee ice cream.
Ala carte above plus two glasses of wine and a large bottle of sparkling water came to £84.50. About half what dinner would have cost.
Returned to Kilconquhar - DC was booked in for a 3 PM massage in the spa and I had a drinks reception at 3:30 in one of the Castle suites. Afterwards we went to the White Cockade just for drinks and there was the couple we had met Sunday on the bridge on the Old Course. They are staying at Kilconquhar too.
<B>May 1 - Glamis, Kirriemuir/Peter Pan</B>
We head north planning to visit Glamis castle and then on to Dunnottar. Enroute though we decide due to DCs slight hobbling we'd skip Dunnottar. The hike out to the castle might have been too much for her today. The weather was nice-ish, cool but clear, no rain. Glamis is enormous and DC really enjoyed it a LOT. We had lunch at the castle - good soup/sandwiches.
Then instead of the drama of Dunnottar we went to Kirriemuir to visit J M Barrie's birthplace. This is a 'wee sweet' property, a two up, two down w/ a wash house out back where Barrie created/performed plays when he was a child. . Won't knock your socks off but recommended for anyone who loves Peter Pan (or has grand kids who do).
Drinks in the White Cockade. The chef came in and asked if we like cheese? Uh, sure we do. And he comes backs with a beautiful cheese board on the house. Totally unexpected.
Dinner ended up being grazing at the villa - cheese, rolls, dessert, stuff - and laundry. Only one more day before London. . .
<B>May 2</B> Stayed 'home' all day. Took a long walk through the village and across fields.
Most of the day spent kicking back then packing. Thursdays are a seafood night in the restaurant so we had our last dinner 'on property'. I had a smoked venison starter and a baked haddock main. DC had Scampi.
next - train to London and settling in to St Katharine's Marina.
April 28 - St Andrews</B>: Today is 'supposed' to be in St Andrews since there is no play on the Old Course and we can walk all over. DC's sons/grandsons are BIG into golf so this excursion is a must. But it is blowing a gale and is dark/cloudy. We plan on waiting it out and hopefully at least the wind will let up. It stayed nasty until mid day. Ate potato leek soup in the White Cockade and headed out to St Andrews around 1PM. Parked in the Scores right across from the bridge/Swilkern Burn. DC was thrilled - we got out of the car and were just a few feet from that famous bridge. We took photos of the bridge, 18th, 1st and the R&A. A couple was taking turns standing on the bridge taking photos of each other. I offered to snap them together and then all four of us took turns taking pix w/ each others cameras.
DC bought lots (and LOTS) of hats and gear in the Old Course shop - gifts for every friend/relative w/ any interest in golf - had everything shipped. Just as we left the shop to look at other parts of the Old Course the the skies opened up and It absolutely POURED! We ran to the car and waited it out. It let up and we decided to walk to the Castle and Cathedral. DC enjoyed the castle - but she has enough castles under her belt by now she is starting to compare one to another and St Andrews was merely interesting - not WOW like some of the others. But the Cathedral really knocked her socks off. That initial view through the west door will do that to you.
Then we walked back through town towards the Old Course and stopped for tea, finger sandwiches in the bar of Russacks. Amazing view of the entire course and the bay.
Returned 'home' about 7:00 and had wine/cheese/nibbles watching the sunset and bunnies on the lawn from our terrace . . .
<B>April 29 - Falkland Palace and Hill of Tarvit House</B>
Today was VERY windy and the weather looked awfully threatening. We had planned on hitting Glamis and Dunnottar but decided to put them off - hopefully Wed will be nicer weather. Instead we went to Falkland Palace then on to Hill of Tarvit House. Falkland is a very interesting property - and the village is really pretty. Falkland's garden is one of my favorites but unfortunately, like everywhere else, nothing was in bloom. Hill of Travit is entirely different than anyplace we'd see on the whole trip. It is centuries newer - Edwardian - so one can really sense what it would be like to live there. Again nothing in bloom except the ubiquitous daffodils and a few primroses. We had tea, cream of carrot/coriader soup and cheese/chutney sandwiches in the cafe - very fresh and very good. Picked up some yummy desserts to take home for dinner. Stayed in and had baked potatoes/soup and dessert.
<B>April 30 - the Peat Inn</B>
We had planned all along on booking a dinner at the Peat Inn but decided to do lunch instead. We rang up on Sunday and booked for this afternoon. So this morning we had a late lie in and lazy morning. Then dressed up in 'London clothes' for 12:30 booking at the Peat Inn. As the 3 other times I've eaten there it was absolutely wonderful! Two amuse buche little cheese puffs in the lounge, then another - beet root, smoked mackerel, horseradish creme fraiche. My starter was oyster pannecotta with caviar, smoked salmon and cauliflower purée and my main - lamb with braised leeks, pureed potatoes. DC had lobster bisque with scallop tartare and dressed crab starter, and Cod with jersey potatoes, asparagus and peas. Dessert was delice of chocolate (VERY dense) with coffee ice cream.
Ala carte above plus two glasses of wine and a large bottle of sparkling water came to £84.50. About half what dinner would have cost.
Returned to Kilconquhar - DC was booked in for a 3 PM massage in the spa and I had a drinks reception at 3:30 in one of the Castle suites. Afterwards we went to the White Cockade just for drinks and there was the couple we had met Sunday on the bridge on the Old Course. They are staying at Kilconquhar too.
<B>May 1 - Glamis, Kirriemuir/Peter Pan</B>
We head north planning to visit Glamis castle and then on to Dunnottar. Enroute though we decide due to DCs slight hobbling we'd skip Dunnottar. The hike out to the castle might have been too much for her today. The weather was nice-ish, cool but clear, no rain. Glamis is enormous and DC really enjoyed it a LOT. We had lunch at the castle - good soup/sandwiches.
Then instead of the drama of Dunnottar we went to Kirriemuir to visit J M Barrie's birthplace. This is a 'wee sweet' property, a two up, two down w/ a wash house out back where Barrie created/performed plays when he was a child. . Won't knock your socks off but recommended for anyone who loves Peter Pan (or has grand kids who do).
Drinks in the White Cockade. The chef came in and asked if we like cheese? Uh, sure we do. And he comes backs with a beautiful cheese board on the house. Totally unexpected.
Dinner ended up being grazing at the villa - cheese, rolls, dessert, stuff - and laundry. Only one more day before London. . .
<B>May 2</B> Stayed 'home' all day. Took a long walk through the village and across fields.
Most of the day spent kicking back then packing. Thursdays are a seafood night in the restaurant so we had our last dinner 'on property'. I had a smoked venison starter and a baked haddock main. DC had Scampi.
next - train to London and settling in to St Katharine's Marina.
May 19th, 2013, 09:30 PM
#18
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Well now I must put Kilconquhar on my list as well as the White Cockade
A very nice lunch at the Peat Inn
I sometimes think Dunnottor Castle is more impressive in its approach than from close up. Of course knowing the history of the Conventors imprisoned there can bring shivers .
I would love to see Dunnottor by sea.
A very nice lunch at the Peat Inn
I sometimes think Dunnottor Castle is more impressive in its approach than from close up. Of course knowing the history of the Conventors imprisoned there can bring shivers .
I would love to see Dunnottor by sea.
May 20th, 2013, 03:45 AM
#20
Join Date: Jan 2008
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Following along with much pleasure, thank you. (I will be in Edinburgh for my first time, for just one day too, 3 weeks and 2 days from now, so reading how great it can be even too briefly is good news.)
